BajaNomad

mulege, over the top, san juanico, la purisma, san isidro, back home

mulegemichael - 1-12-2009 at 09:49 AM

We left Mulege Thursday morning after breakfast, heading out the Ice House road toward the Trinidads...we had never made the trip across the mountains before so were excited to see what was in store for us....we didn't have to wait long; we couldn't find the right road heading west....i spied Ray's restaurant from a distance and as luck would have it, Ray was home. He pointed us in the right direction and we were off!

We started climbing shortly thereafter and at times I thought we would lose the road completely but just as it was disappearing it would reappear and we would once again be on track. Up and down, twisting turns, creeping along in cobble rock in river bottoms, just following what evidence of travelers that had gone before us.

We had left Ray's at 9:40 am and by 11:40 am we had gone 14 miles...that should give you an idea of the terrain...but....the trusty Toyota just kept creeping along and by 2 in the afternoon we had reached La Ballena on the other side....in the 4 1/2 hours or so that we were crossing over, we saw one vehicle....so....it bodes well to be prepared to spend the night in the mountains if you breakdown cause ain't nobody gonna be rescuing you soon...thank gawd we didn't have to worry about that....

We turned south and headed for San Juanico. There is a military checkpoint about 12 kilometers north of SJ but the guys manning it were all smiles and wanting to talk when we pulled up...no inspection for us...

San Juanico is a cool little village situated on a gorgeous crescent bay. We had heard that it was known for it's good surfing but on this day there was no evidence of surf; the water was flat and just barely lapping at the shoreline....we started poking our noses around for a place that serves adult beverages and it didn't take long....our amigos patty and tom here in Mulege had told us of a cantina situated up on the bluffs where one could sit and sip....within minutes of entering SJ we were doing just that...

Just about every car we saw had a surfboard or two on it and most of the characters driving seemed to be in our age bracket; children of the sixties....so we didn't hesitate to stop and chat with a few of them....everyone was more than happy to offer up advise and tips....

We secured an enclosed palapa to crash in that night up by the cantina...convenient?.. yes..expensive?..yes...but, when it's the only show in town, ya know?....it was a flat gorgeous location and worth the cash so we can't complain.....set our chairs up outside and read till dark then shuffled back up to the cantina for dinner and more drinks...a really neat experience...

The next morning we met up with our bartender from the previous night...Juan was born and raised in Posa Grande, just south maybe 30 miles from here and he was encouraging us to visit his family down there and fish the estero for snook...i was tempted but didn't have our little panga with us so took a raincheck...we WILL go there soon though...Juan suggested we try fishing from the cliff just down from our palapa so we tried it..for one cast...we both got a little vertigo standing out on the edge and thought we would save the fishing for later when we were DOWN on the beach.

Our amigo John, here in Mulege, suggested we take a look at San Gregorio, south of SJ about 10-15 miles....sounded good so we started asking directions....an aging surfer named Jack suggested we just take off down the beach and follow it almost all the way to SG...so off we go down the hardpacked sand...By the beach route it's only about 25 minutes to SG...by the upland road, it's over an hour...but...we had to go upland for about 1-2 miles at the end of the beach as we couldn't get around a rocky bluff...it's all sand dune road so a 4wd is necessary but boy, was it fun....just winds around on this exposed ridge just back from the cliffs...we passed a couple of vigilante camps then broke over a little hogback and dropped into the estuary of San Gregorio....gorgeous little waterway nestled down in a green arroyo....the tide was waaaaayyyy out so fishing was out..but, beachgirl is not one to be denied!...we got here all rigged up and she fished while I set up camp...then, as I sat there with a cold one and a book she continued to fish....the tide turned really late in the day and started roaring in..and i mean ROARING!!!...roz saw fish boiling at the leading edge of the incoming tide and off she went again with fishing rod in hand....i continued to read and imbibe....a couple of locals stopped by our camp and we passed Tecates all around...we were sitting up there yukking it up when roz started yelling...we all looked over and saw her rod doubled over!.....eventually, she drug a big, fat, 8# corvina up on the beach..dinner!!!....the guys I'd been socializing with said the corvina down there get up to 25 kilos!!!!....I just can't believe that!.....anyway....i filleted the fish out and cooked it by candlelight that night...just delicious!...

Next morning we awoke to find ourselves on an island!...the tide had filled the estero and moved in behind us and now we were surrounded by water...so...i guess we have time to cook breakfast before moving on.....

By the time we had eaten and closed down our camp the water had subsided enough for us to pick our way out of there...our next stop was La Purisma and San Isidro and we REALLY wanted to see the Comundos.....We got to the little burg of La Purisma at about noon...A really cute, quiet, green little town but it appeared almost deserted; all the stores were closed or boarded up, the streets were empty...hmmmm??....just a short distance down the road was San Isidro and while it's also a beautiful little village there were no people around even tho it was Saturday...kinda spooky, really....

We probed around looking for the road to Comundus but couldn't be certain which one it was so decided to head out to Hwy 1...I knew it was quite a run so thought we'd better get going if we wanted to make it before dark....

An hour and a half into it, we came to a spot that looked like the road had ended and then started second guessing ourselves...."Is this REALLY the right road???"...hmmmm....so...like a dummy...I turned around...We weren't sure what our plan would be now but thought if worse came to worse, we could find a place to camp back in San Isidro....

After about an hour, we met a flatbed truck and signaled them to stop....it was a Mexican couple with a tow headed, bright blue eyed girl of about 4 yrs old with them...neither roz or I could take our eyes off of her...I asked where the road was that would take us out to the hwy...he told me I was on it!...geez!!

So...we turned around again and headed east once more....when we got to the point in the road where we had thought it ended I just plugged ahead...slowly...over loose cobble rock...it dropped precipitously into a water filled canyon then flattened out...whew!...this was the only place beachgirl actually got a little weepy...brave girl!....our plan initially that morning was to hit hwy 1 then continue east on another backroad to a little fish camp called San Nicholas and spend the night there....rumor has it SN is where "King of the Moon", Gene Kira's book was to have taken place....anyway....by the time we got to the Hwy, we were both so beat that we hightailed it for home, only an hour away.

The trip across the top then back out is a MUST DO!....now that we have done it once, the next time will be a lot less anxious for us as we know our rig and us also can make it.....The wind howled most of the way and it wasn't that conducive to camping but think we will make the trip down to SN sometime later this week if the viento stops...will post a report when and if that happens....beachgirl will post pics of this trip later as I am "photo challenged"..

David K - 1-12-2009 at 10:19 AM

GREAT!

boe4fun - 1-12-2009 at 10:30 AM

Thanks for the report, my "Baja jones" is acting up!!!

shari - 1-12-2009 at 10:48 AM

Atta girl Roz.....way to bring home the bacon girl! thanks for sharing this great trip.
Yesterday Juan decided to take an arroyo road to San Roque from the San Pablo road...I voted against it...but hey...we're in a toyota so whatever...well, there was no road after the rains and so many places that I just shook my head and said we have to go back I lost count...NO WAY can we get over/around/through that!!!! Well, Juan and his wonder toytota did just that...remarkable feat...hopefully not to be repeated as I was sure we would be spending the night out there...with NO ONE to rescue us.....weep weep.

Russ - 1-12-2009 at 11:12 AM

Great report! That is the trip I've wanted to do for awhile but haven't yet.

desertcpl - 1-12-2009 at 11:20 AM

thanks for sharing,, great report,, cant wait for the photos

mulegemichael - 1-12-2009 at 11:21 AM

russ, stop by our casa in the oasis,(#54), and i will give you more details...really a fun trip!

Bajaboy - 1-12-2009 at 12:02 PM

San Gregorio is awesome. We camped at a little spot on the north point. San Jose de Commundu is incredible as well...probably one of the most remarkable places in Baja in my opinion. Thanks for sharing the details of your trip.

zac

Hook - 1-12-2009 at 01:40 PM

I'm hoping to take the ferry over from Guaymas sometime and doing that trip in our Jeep. Just tents and camping equipment and the dog. Thanks for the description and the San Gregorio idea.

Cypress - 1-12-2009 at 01:40 PM

mulegemichael, Thanks for the report. Been there. Great!:biggrin:

Paulina - 1-12-2009 at 01:52 PM

Thanks for the report, I too can't wait for the photos.

P<*)))>{

baja-spirit - 1-12-2009 at 01:58 PM

Russ..... don't go. ..until we get there....Sounds like a good time....

Beachgirl - 1-12-2009 at 04:44 PM

Couple of photos as mulegemichael ask me to do this...I am almost as tech cramped as he is...the trip was spectacular, frightening, stunningly beautiful. The corvina was fab cooked on our Coleman camp stove, along with fresh green beans, white potatoes and lots of adult beverages. The tide did roar in and we made sure to stay up til high tide just to be certain we would not find outselves under water in the middle of the night. Taking a king-sized self-inflating pillowtop air mattress is a must. We ain't kids anymore, and it made tent overnights just perfect.

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This is a road?

Beachgirl - 1-12-2009 at 04:46 PM



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Camping at SG

Beachgirl - 1-12-2009 at 04:47 PM

Camping at SG

Beachgirl - 1-12-2009 at 04:48 PM

ok...I will try the photo again

ugh

Beachgirl - 1-12-2009 at 04:48 PM

Have to resize that one...here is Mike capturing the moon

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On the beach

Beachgirl - 1-12-2009 at 04:49 PM



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One more

Beachgirl - 1-12-2009 at 04:51 PM



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Russ - 1-12-2009 at 06:09 PM

Great photos. Big Corvina in my book...ancient trail..... Funny guy with a mothball .... Green Piece whaling ship ... and a pyramid Nice trip.

fishsticker - 1-12-2009 at 11:00 PM

If you come to San Nicolas stop in for a Margarita. I live near the church. Just ask anyone for Kenny & Susana.

Campsite at San Gregorio

Beachgirl - 1-13-2009 at 08:11 AM

Smack on the sand...surrounded by water when the tide rose in the am. As in San Juanico could see the sunrise and the sunset without moving. Really amazing places to visit.

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Roy Rogers in San Juanico

Beachgirl - 1-13-2009 at 08:18 AM



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Where is the road

Beachgirl - 1-13-2009 at 08:24 AM

Three hours at this point to get back to the Hwy 1...looked like the end of the road to us, but we made it

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oladulce - 1-13-2009 at 05:20 PM

Beautiful Corvina and it sounds like you had fun.

Do you have any photos of the Mulege/Ballena road?

I thought this view looked familiar. They graded and maintained the "East road" until about 8 yrs ago and it would only take 2hr. 50 min. to get from San Juanico to the Hwy 1 jct across the peninnsula. I miss it terribly ! (both the scenery, and it cuts 5 hrs off the trip when you don't have to go all the way south and around). I'm hoping some day they'll work on that road again.



It's 20 miles from the lighthouse at Punta Pequeña to San Gregorio when you take the beach route, so I think it's closer to 40 miles (+) to Poza Grande from SJ. It would probably take you 3½ hours hrs to get to Poza from Mulege if you went south and stayed on the pavement. Please post photos if you go- I'd like to see what it looks like out there someday.

[Edited on 1-16-2009 by oladulce]

TMW - 1-13-2009 at 06:05 PM

Great report thanks for sharing. I guess the hurricanes played havic on the roads. Can't wait to get down there and roam around.

Sharksbaja - 1-13-2009 at 06:23 PM

TOO MUCH FUN!!!

woody with a view - 1-13-2009 at 06:46 PM

Quote:

So...we turned around again and headed east once more....when we got to the point in the road where we had thought it ended I just plugged ahead...slowly...over loose cobble rock...it dropped precipitously into a water filled canyon then flattened out...whew!...this was the only place beachgirl actually got a little weepy...brave girl!....


we went west on this road a while back and it was HELL going UPHILL. i stalled twice and muttered under my breath, "one more time and we're turning around!" i don't know how i would have made a u-turn, so i guess it's good that we made it. Bia was freaked out looking out the window at the 75 foot drop down into the canyon and she made me promise not to take her this way again.....but the rest of the trip was UNREAL!!!!

thanks for the pictures of that "hell hill". :o

Eso es un camino bueno

Ken Cooke - 1-13-2009 at 08:55 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Beachgirl
Three hours at this point to get back to the Hwy 1...looked like the end of the road to us, but we made it


That doesn't look too majorly messed up. Call me wierd, but I look for roads that aren't quite passable. :light:

mulegemichael - 1-14-2009 at 08:21 AM

ken...you're weird!

Beachgirl - 1-14-2009 at 08:31 AM

Ken, you don't get it from looking at the photos. "Hell Hill" IS the perfect description. Had to be there

Paulclark - 1-14-2009 at 08:58 AM

Near San Martin - December 27, 2008

Mulege to Scorpion Bay

Beachgirl - 1-14-2009 at 09:15 AM

Ok, guess I should post some photos of the first half of the trip. By the time we got lost, found Ray, got the right scoop and took the correct road it was 9:45 am. We finally checked in at the enclosed palapa at Scorpion Bay (the deluxe unit with a door, screened windows and shutters), it was around 3:30, so it was a six hour drive for sure. We saw one car during that time, so we felt as if the world was ours and ours alone. We kept crossing back and forth over the riverbed. Some places wetter than others. Rocks, of course in the river, too. Maybe someone can identify the hawk in my photo. Three hours into the trip we saw a Santa sign in a bush. No house, just the sign.

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Beachgirl - 1-14-2009 at 09:16 AM

on the road

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Beachgirl - 1-14-2009 at 09:18 AM

a little further

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Beachgirl - 1-14-2009 at 09:19 AM

Santa sign OUT there

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Beachgirl - 1-14-2009 at 09:20 AM

Help identify this hawk if you can

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Beachgirl - 1-14-2009 at 09:21 AM

Back and forth along the river

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Beachgirl - 1-14-2009 at 09:24 AM

It was pretty fabulous to finally get to our destination. The enclosed palapa was pretty expensive...650 pesos, but we were SO glad to be there.

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Russ - 1-14-2009 at 09:30 AM

My guess would be a kestrel/sparrow hawk
Here are a couple pics I took on the same road, I think, but we never went over the top.


David K - 1-14-2009 at 09:38 AM

Great!

Beachgirl... if you would like to show off you great photos all together, and bigger... try using photobucket.com. You can upload the photos from you PC folder to photobucket and it will automatically resize the photo for Nomad (you chose the size... 'Large' or '15" screen' is best and will not distort the Nomad page).

See how Russ's are above?

I am only suggestiong this because you do have great photos to share!

Thank you!

Beachgirl - 1-14-2009 at 10:21 AM

Thanks, David. I was hoping somebody would jump in and help me.