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mulegemichael
Super Nomad
Posts: 2310
Registered: 12-24-2007
Location: sequim,wa. and mulege
Member Is Offline
Mood: up on step
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mulege, over the top, san juanico, la purisma, san isidro, back home
We left Mulege Thursday morning after breakfast, heading out the Ice House road toward the Trinidads...we had never made the trip across the mountains
before so were excited to see what was in store for us....we didn't have to wait long; we couldn't find the right road heading west....i spied Ray's
restaurant from a distance and as luck would have it, Ray was home. He pointed us in the right direction and we were off!
We started climbing shortly thereafter and at times I thought we would lose the road completely but just as it was disappearing it would reappear and
we would once again be on track. Up and down, twisting turns, creeping along in cobble rock in river bottoms, just following what evidence of
travelers that had gone before us.
We had left Ray's at 9:40 am and by 11:40 am we had gone 14 miles...that should give you an idea of the terrain...but....the trusty Toyota just kept
creeping along and by 2 in the afternoon we had reached La Ballena on the other side....in the 4 1/2 hours or so that we were crossing over, we saw
one vehicle....so....it bodes well to be prepared to spend the night in the mountains if you breakdown cause ain't nobody gonna be rescuing you
soon...thank gawd we didn't have to worry about that....
We turned south and headed for San Juanico. There is a military checkpoint about 12 kilometers north of SJ but the guys manning it were all smiles and
wanting to talk when we pulled up...no inspection for us...
San Juanico is a cool little village situated on a gorgeous crescent bay. We had heard that it was known for it's good surfing but on this day there
was no evidence of surf; the water was flat and just barely lapping at the shoreline....we started poking our noses around for a place that serves
adult beverages and it didn't take long....our amigos patty and tom here in Mulege had told us of a cantina situated up on the bluffs where one could
sit and sip....within minutes of entering SJ we were doing just that...
Just about every car we saw had a surfboard or two on it and most of the characters driving seemed to be in our age bracket; children of the
sixties....so we didn't hesitate to stop and chat with a few of them....everyone was more than happy to offer up advise and tips....
We secured an enclosed palapa to crash in that night up by the cantina...convenient?.. yes..expensive?..yes...but, when it's the only show in town, ya
know?....it was a flat gorgeous location and worth the cash so we can't complain.....set our chairs up outside and read till dark then shuffled back
up to the cantina for dinner and more drinks...a really neat experience...
The next morning we met up with our bartender from the previous night...Juan was born and raised in Posa Grande, just south maybe 30 miles from here
and he was encouraging us to visit his family down there and fish the estero for snook...i was tempted but didn't have our little panga with us so
took a raincheck...we WILL go there soon though...Juan suggested we try fishing from the cliff just down from our palapa so we tried it..for one
cast...we both got a little vertigo standing out on the edge and thought we would save the fishing for later when we were DOWN on the beach.
Our amigo John, here in Mulege, suggested we take a look at San Gregorio, south of SJ about 10-15 miles....sounded good so we started asking
directions....an aging surfer named Jack suggested we just take off down the beach and follow it almost all the way to SG...so off we go down the
hardpacked sand...By the beach route it's only about 25 minutes to SG...by the upland road, it's over an hour...but...we had to go upland for about
1-2 miles at the end of the beach as we couldn't get around a rocky bluff...it's all sand dune road so a 4wd is necessary but boy, was it fun....just
winds around on this exposed ridge just back from the cliffs...we passed a couple of vigilante camps then broke over a little hogback and dropped into
the estuary of San Gregorio....gorgeous little waterway nestled down in a green arroyo....the tide was waaaaayyyy out so fishing was out..but,
beachgirl is not one to be denied!...we got here all rigged up and she fished while I set up camp...then, as I sat there with a cold one and a book
she continued to fish....the tide turned really late in the day and started roaring in..and i mean ROARING!!!...roz saw fish boiling at the leading
edge of the incoming tide and off she went again with fishing rod in hand....i continued to read and imbibe....a couple of locals stopped by our camp
and we passed Tecates all around...we were sitting up there yukking it up when roz started yelling...we all looked over and saw her rod doubled
over!.....eventually, she drug a big, fat, 8# corvina up on the beach..dinner!!!....the guys I'd been socializing with said the corvina down there get
up to 25 kilos!!!!....I just can't believe that!.....anyway....i filleted the fish out and cooked it by candlelight that night...just delicious!...
Next morning we awoke to find ourselves on an island!...the tide had filled the estero and moved in behind us and now we were surrounded by
water...so...i guess we have time to cook breakfast before moving on.....
By the time we had eaten and closed down our camp the water had subsided enough for us to pick our way out of there...our next stop was La Purisma and
San Isidro and we REALLY wanted to see the Comundos.....We got to the little burg of La Purisma at about noon...A really cute, quiet, green little
town but it appeared almost deserted; all the stores were closed or boarded up, the streets were empty...hmmmm??....just a short distance down the
road was San Isidro and while it's also a beautiful little village there were no people around even tho it was Saturday...kinda spooky, really....
We probed around looking for the road to Comundus but couldn't be certain which one it was so decided to head out to Hwy 1...I knew it was quite a run
so thought we'd better get going if we wanted to make it before dark....
An hour and a half into it, we came to a spot that looked like the road had ended and then started second guessing ourselves...."Is this REALLY the
right road???"...hmmmm....so...like a dummy...I turned around...We weren't sure what our plan would be now but thought if worse came to worse, we
could find a place to camp back in San Isidro....
After about an hour, we met a flatbed truck and signaled them to stop....it was a Mexican couple with a tow headed, bright blue eyed girl of about 4
yrs old with them...neither roz or I could take our eyes off of her...I asked where the road was that would take us out to the hwy...he told me I was
on it!...geez!!
So...we turned around again and headed east once more....when we got to the point in the road where we had thought it ended I just plugged
ahead...slowly...over loose cobble rock...it dropped precipitously into a water filled canyon then flattened out...whew!...this was the only place
beachgirl actually got a little weepy...brave girl!....our plan initially that morning was to hit hwy 1 then continue east on another backroad to a
little fish camp called San Nicholas and spend the night there....rumor has it SN is where "King of the Moon", Gene Kira's book was to have taken
place....anyway....by the time we got to the Hwy, we were both so beat that we hightailed it for home, only an hour away.
The trip across the top then back out is a MUST DO!....now that we have done it once, the next time will be a lot less anxious for us as we know our
rig and us also can make it.....The wind howled most of the way and it wasn't that conducive to camping but think we will make the trip down to SN
sometime later this week if the viento stops...will post a report when and if that happens....beachgirl will post pics of this trip later as I am
"photo challenged"..
dyslexia is never having to say you\'re yrros.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64829
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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GREAT!
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boe4fun
Super Nomad
Posts: 1040
Registered: 1-22-2006
Location: Margaritaville
Member Is Offline
Mood: Circling the drain........
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Thanks for the report, my "Baja jones" is acting up!!!
Two dirt roads diverged in Baja and I, I took the one less graveled by......
Soy ignorante, apático y ambivalente. No lo sé y no me importa, ni modo.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Atta girl Roz.....way to bring home the bacon girl! thanks for sharing this great trip.
Yesterday Juan decided to take an arroyo road to San Roque from the San Pablo road...I voted against it...but hey...we're in a toyota so
whatever...well, there was no road after the rains and so many places that I just shook my head and said we have to go back I lost count...NO WAY can
we get over/around/through that!!!! Well, Juan and his wonder toytota did just that...remarkable feat...hopefully not to be repeated as I was sure we
would be spending the night out there...with NO ONE to rescue us.....weep weep.
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Russ
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6742
Registered: 7-4-2004
Location: Punta Chivato
Member Is Offline
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Great report! That is the trip I've wanted to do for awhile but haven't yet.
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desertcpl
Super Nomad
Posts: 2396
Registered: 10-26-2008
Location: yuma,az
Member Is Offline
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thanks for sharing,, great report,, cant wait for the photos
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mulegemichael
Super Nomad
Posts: 2310
Registered: 12-24-2007
Location: sequim,wa. and mulege
Member Is Offline
Mood: up on step
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russ, stop by our casa in the oasis,(#54), and i will give you more details...really a fun trip!
dyslexia is never having to say you\'re yrros.
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Bajaboy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4375
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Bahia Asuncion, BCS, Mexico
Member Is Offline
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San Gregorio is awesome. We camped at a little spot on the north point. San Jose de Commundu is incredible as well...probably one of the most
remarkable places in Baja in my opinion. Thanks for sharing the details of your trip.
zac
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9009
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
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I'm hoping to take the ferry over from Guaymas sometime and doing that trip in our Jeep. Just tents and camping equipment and the dog. Thanks for the
description and the San Gregorio idea.
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
Member Is Offline
Mood: undecided
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mulegemichael, Thanks for the report. Been there. Great!
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Paulina
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3810
Registered: 8-31-2002
Location: BCN
Member Is Offline
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Thanks for the report, I too can't wait for the photos.
P<*)))>{
\"Well behaved women rarely make history.\" Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
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baja-spirit
Junior Nomad
Posts: 82
Registered: 1-11-2008
Member Is Offline
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Russ..... don't go. ..until we get there....Sounds like a good time....
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Beachgirl
Nomad
Posts: 206
Registered: 1-1-2008
Member Is Offline
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Couple of photos as mulegemichael ask me to do this...I am almost as tech cramped as he is...the trip was spectacular, frightening, stunningly
beautiful. The corvina was fab cooked on our Coleman camp stove, along with fresh green beans, white potatoes and lots of adult beverages. The tide
did roar in and we made sure to stay up til high tide just to be certain we would not find outselves under water in the middle of the night. Taking a
king-sized self-inflating pillowtop air mattress is a must. We ain't kids anymore, and it made tent overnights just perfect.
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Beachgirl
Nomad
Posts: 206
Registered: 1-1-2008
Member Is Offline
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This is a road?
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Beachgirl
Nomad
Posts: 206
Registered: 1-1-2008
Member Is Offline
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Camping at SG
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Beachgirl
Nomad
Posts: 206
Registered: 1-1-2008
Member Is Offline
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Camping at SG
ok...I will try the photo again
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Beachgirl
Nomad
Posts: 206
Registered: 1-1-2008
Member Is Offline
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ugh
Have to resize that one...here is Mike capturing the moon
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Beachgirl
Nomad
Posts: 206
Registered: 1-1-2008
Member Is Offline
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On the beach
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Beachgirl
Nomad
Posts: 206
Registered: 1-1-2008
Member Is Offline
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One more
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Russ
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6742
Registered: 7-4-2004
Location: Punta Chivato
Member Is Offline
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Great photos. Big Corvina in my book...ancient trail..... Funny guy with a mothball .... Green Piece whaling ship ... and a pyramid Nice trip.
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