BajaNomad

San Javier

flyfishinPam - 2-6-2009 at 09:56 AM

I've been giving tours to passengers on the Cruise West ship that comes weekly from Cabo San Lucas. Here are some photos of my favorite tour, this time taken just alone with my children:

About halfway up the road to San Javier is the stop at Cuevas Pintas (cave paintings) the pools behind the cave paintings are, to me more of an attraction than the paintings themselves. This is just a few dozen yards from the cave paintings wall on a good trail:



At Rancho Viejo, the ranch that makes my favorite goat cheese- there are various farm animals that my kids love to visit. Pigs, goats, bulls, horses and donkeys and this pair of turkeys that are always seen hanging around:




On the ranch property and across the road and down the hill from the site of ruins of the original San Javier chapel, priest's house and salitta, is where the dam was built (originally by the jesuits) to contain the flowing stream. It has been maintained by the family at Rancho Viejo and the ranch has been family owned for over 150 years:



This is the west entrance of the mission at San Javier as the sun's light is striking on it:



This is the generator that powers the little town at nightfall. Its right across the street from the police station on the main boulevard:



And this is the west side of El Pilon de Las Parras, 2,500 feet high at the top of which can be seen the Sea of Cortez, Magdelena Bay and the Pacific Ocean. I am planning to climb it this spring on a clear day:



I am hoping to find a good access to the old jesuit road so that I can ride my mountain bike up it. I'm afraid to use the main road as the vehicles drive too fast on it.

At this time the road to San Javier is being paved but that is an understatement. It is being rebuilt and they have a long ways to go and a huge job to do. IMHO the road will lose its character after it is paved so I plan to enjoy it as much as possible while its still mostly a dirt road. Usually the road is suitable for just about any vehicle but near the road construction part there will often be difficult access and a loose base that required 4WD last time I visited.

Bob H - 2-6-2009 at 09:59 AM

Wow, Pam... very nice photos and what a beautiful area.
Bob H

shari - 2-6-2009 at 10:01 AM

Pam...do you do private tours there? What would it cost for a family...do you have a vehicle to take them? Love the photos amiga.

Santiago - 2-6-2009 at 10:03 AM

Thanks Pam - brings back memories of 10 years ago when I rented a jeep in town and drove this road to Mag Bay. The stream is by far the best place - stopped there and ate my burritos from Cafe Sol. Saw little fish I swore were trout fry - must of been mistaken - no?

David K - 2-6-2009 at 10:11 AM

San Javier is the finest, original Jesuit stone mission example in Baja... IMO.

A visit to it is a must!

Here is a photo on the roof from our second trip there, in 1976...

San Javier 76-r.JPG - 35kB

David K - 2-6-2009 at 10:12 AM

another...

San Javier 76-2-r.JPG - 41kB

flyfishinPam - 2-6-2009 at 10:16 AM

We some little minnows in pools of the streams sometimes but don't know what they are but that's likely due to the fact that wouldn't take my smallest fly a size 4. I don't think I'd feel them even on my lightest rod a 5 WT.

Cruise West hires the ground service (C&C) that I also use for airport transfers for our fishermen. She needed guides and this is our low season so I figured why not? Its fun and I can apply my plant physiology degree during the tour when I discuss the flora of the area. Also coupled with the great stories on the history of the settlement here its an enjoyable tour.

I could use some reference on the geology as I don't have much info and it is so striking. Could anyone point me out to online references? Loreto is a small town and no books here available at this time also amazon takes 30 days to deliver to here.

flyfishinPam - 2-6-2009 at 10:19 AM

WOW! David you got permission to go on top of the roof! I'll need to look into that as well, or did you scale the walls using those uneven stones that we're told was used as a permanent scaffolding during the construction? We're also told that the roof is designed to channel rainwater to fall onto the west side of the building and into the old fountain on the west side? Could you see that kiind of thing on the roof?

David K - 2-6-2009 at 10:25 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by flyfishinPam
WOW! David you got permission to go on top of the roof! I'll need to look into that as well, or did you scale the walls using those uneven stones that we're told was used as a permanent scaffolding during the construction? We're also told that the roof is designed to channel rainwater to fall onto the west side of the building and into the old fountain on the west side? Could you see that kiind of thing on the roof?


We were invited up...

My girlfriend, my mother and I arrived (my dad went fishing that day) in my Jeep and a little old man came over to us, he unlocked the door to the stairway... and we went up!

David K - 2-6-2009 at 10:27 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by flyfishinPam

I could use some reference on the geology as I don't have much info and it is so striking. Could anyone point me out to online references? Loreto is a small town and no books here available at this time also amazon takes 30 days to deliver to here.


Here's some:

Upper Oligocene to Middle Miocene volcanic and sedimentary rocks in the Loreto region, Baja California Sur, are widely exposed and make up the Comondú Group as redefined here following McFall. The Comondú Group is part of a volcanic arc and forearc basin that formed along the northwestern margin of Mexico. Regional to detailed scale mapping, stratigraphic analysis, and geochronology in a 10–20-km-wide and 70-km-long belt from the gulf escarpment to the coast near Loreto reveal three main units in the Comondú Group and a composite thickness of 1.5–2 km. (1) The lower clastic unit (30–19 Ma) contains 200–300 m of fluvial sandstone and conglomerate with probable local eolian deposits and numerous felsic tuffs and basalt flows that accumulated in a forearc basin. (2) The middle breccia and lava flow unit (19–15 Ma) is up to 750 m thick and consists of massive andesite breccia that was deposited as proximal debris flows interbedded with minor andesite lava flows. (3) The upper lava flow and breccia unit (15–12 Ma) consists almost entirely of up to 600 meters of andesite lava flows a few kilometers west of Loreto that are part of a composite volcano. North and south of Loreto for up to 25 km, the unit is composed of andesite lava flows and massive andesite breccia that formed from thick debris flows near that and other volcanic centers. The three units of the Comondú Group in the Loreto area correlated with the Salto, Pelones, and Ricasón formations of the Bahía Concepción area. The lower clastic unit of this study is time equivalent to the marine San Gregorio, El Cien, and Isidro formations on the western and southern Baja California peninsula. The middle and upper units of the Loreto area are the proximal equivalent to the type section of the Comondú Group near the village of Comondú. During deposition of the lower part of the Comondú Group, the arc lay to the east on mainland Mexico in the Sierra Madre Occidental, and then migrated to the position of the Gulf of California at about 25 Ma. At 19 Ma the proximal part of the arc migrated abruptly >50 km westward to approximately the position of Carmen Island and at 15 Ma the arc once again stepped west forming eruptive centers along the coast near Loreto until 12 Ma. Also at 15 Ma, the proximal forearc region changed from aggradational to neutral or erosional such that no rocks of the upper unit are preserved in the gulf escarpment.

Bob H - 2-6-2009 at 10:30 AM

David... it seems all of your responses are doubled.
Bob H

David K - 2-6-2009 at 10:31 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Bob H
David... it seems all of your responses are doubled.
Bob H


Not on my end Bob... try refreshing the page...

Timo1 - 2-6-2009 at 10:33 AM

I'm getting the same thing David
In all the threads you've responded in
Wierd

David K - 2-6-2009 at 10:34 AM

Pam, here is a geology map...




came from this link on the geology of the Loreto basin: http://www.uoregon.edu/~rdorsey/Loreto.html

This was all found by going to the bottom of the Nomad page and using the Google search... 'Loreto geology'

David K - 2-6-2009 at 10:37 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Timo1
I'm getting the same thing David
In all the threads you've responded in
Wierd


Well, I am posting the only way I have always done... looks fine on my screen... Doug can see what's up, perhaps... Other than refreshing your browser and see if the double posts go away... nothing else to do.

Timo1 - 2-6-2009 at 10:39 AM

Not to worry
Its all fixed now....some how
Must have been sun spots

Paulina - 2-6-2009 at 11:12 AM

Pam,

Thank you so much for posting your photos. I have been wondering for a very long time what the town of San Javier looks like now. The last time I was there was in 1979. I don't remember very much other than it seemed to take forever getting there up a long and winding dirt road. We stopped the jeep at a place where there were pools of water that we used to rinse the road dirt off of our bodies.

I really want to go back there someday.

Thanks again,
P<*)))>{

View towards the mission in 79:



Our transportation. There were six of us riding in that little jeep:


elgatoloco - 2-6-2009 at 11:32 AM

Paulina - San Javier has not changed much at all and you even less! :dudette:

Barb and I drove up there in '96 and then on to Comundu. It was a great all day trip with a new discovery around every corner. We had no idea of the condition of the road and if we could make it all the way to the other side. The plant life was spectacular as there had been recent rains. Cactus bulging and ocotillo blooming and big fig trees clinging to rock walls. Have been wanting to get back up there ever since. The first view of San Jose de Comundu from upon high is unforgettable.

Good for the folks who travel the road reguarly that it is being paved.

Pam thanks for posting photos!

Bob H - 2-6-2009 at 12:58 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
Quote:
Originally posted by Bob H
David... it seems all of your responses are doubled.
Bob H


Not on my end Bob... try refreshing the page...


Wow, you're right.
Bob H

David K - 2-6-2009 at 01:15 PM

;D

flyfishinPam - 2-6-2009 at 03:42 PM

I didn't take a photo of the main road looking towards the Mission but I will this Wednesday when I go back as things have changed a bit. Its more cleaned up now they moved some light posts and electric wires so they don't block the view of the mission. Also there are more buildings now than in Paulinas photo and there are nice planters with pretty flowers.

Thank you for the geology information David that helps! and I'm seeing normal looking posts from you not double posts.

July, 1973 SAN JAVIER

David K - 2-6-2009 at 04:32 PM

I dug out my old photos of our first time up to the mission...









I also have a photo of the alter inside with the four oil paintings... but it isn't very clear... and too dark.

Here is the road log from my first guidebook of the road to San Javier... (what I did at 15, while dad was driving, record mileages and draw maps!)


Another view from the top

Cardon - 2-6-2009 at 05:46 PM

I took these photos in 1979/80. As we parked in front of the mission a lady came out of a nearby house and gave us a tour and let us go up to the top- Very serene and peaceful.
















David K - 2-6-2009 at 08:27 PM

Great Cardon! Thanks... it is great up there, huh?!

castaway$ - 2-7-2009 at 10:18 PM

Beautiful shots Pam.

Leo - 3-6-2009 at 09:26 PM

Nice info on geology and the mission. I was there, drove up with my Volvo 4X . Actually spend the night in one of those awfully bare accomodations there are around.

fixtrauma - 3-7-2009 at 03:26 AM

The last time we visited San Javier was about 10 years ago in a Dodge mini-van! Certainly not an off road vehicle or a pickup but we were very intrigued and wanted to see it. Our nephew has flown over it many times and has visited it as well and highly recommended we see it. Although he did not recommend the mini-van. With constant road observation and willingness to turn back if necessary, we plodded along. To say the least, it was very rewarding. All these pictures posted causes me to re-think our travel plans for next month as we drive to La Paz. I think a turn towards San Javier is a must again! :yes:

msawin - 3-7-2009 at 08:19 AM

We went up a couple of years back to show it to some friends of ours. To the right of the misson we had lunch and a cold beer for just a few dollars. I think I had goat meat for the first time in my taco.

marty

shari - 3-7-2009 at 08:28 AM

When we were there last year, we saw this wonderful little B&B type place that looked fairly newly renovated and opened....appeared very upscale and most likely pretty pricey...anybody know how to contact this place for reservations and prices? It would be a terrific place to spend the night and hang with the locals.

I spent a couple hours chatting with an ancient couple there who lived in their hacienda a few huts down from the mission. They were lamenting the fact that none of the kids want to stay there anymore and they were alone now. I thought it would be a good idea for them to open their home to people wanting to stay the night...rent out all those kids rooms for cheap...they are rustic but simple and charming and I would stay there in a heartbeat instead of a yuppie B&B. They got that dreamy look in their eyes as I was leaving them...I sure hope they decide to do it. Sometimes I wish I were free to just stay a month and help these old timers get something going...hmmm.

[Edited on 3-7-2009 by shari]

Don Alley - 3-7-2009 at 09:23 AM

the old olive tree

olivetree.jpg - 48kB

Paula - 3-7-2009 at 11:55 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
When we were there last year, we saw this wonderful little B&B type place that looked fairly newly renovated and opened....appeared very upscale and most likely pretty pricey...anybody know how to contact this place for reservations and prices? It would be a terrific place to spend the night and hang with the locals.

I spent a couple hours chatting with an ancient couple there who lived in their hacienda a few huts down from the mission. They were lamenting the fact that none of the kids want to stay there anymore and they were alone now. I thought it would be a good idea for them to open their home to people wanting to stay the night...rent out all those kids rooms for cheap...they are rustic but simple and charming and I would stay there in a heartbeat instead of a yuppie B&B. They got that dreamy look in their eyes as I was leaving them...I sure hope they decide to do it. Sometimes I wish I were free to just stay a month and help these old timers get something going...hmmm.

[Edited on 3-7-2009 by shari]




http://www.casadeanaloreto.com/accomodations.htm

This is a link to the not-pricy not-yuppie hotel in San Javier.

shari - 3-7-2009 at 12:31 PM

Casa Ana is beautiful and reasonably priced...who operated this? Very professional website...but personally I usually support the underdog...ma and pa who probably dont have a website...if they had a room to rent.
But I look forward to staying at Casa Ana at the first opportunity...good for them for doing such a nice job.

Paula - 3-7-2009 at 01:40 PM

Shari, Casa de Ana is locally owned and operated, by a San Javier family. Because it is tiny and phone connections are touch and go up there and the owners speak only Spanish they have the Oasis hotel in Loreto helping them with reservations, some people don't want to drive up and then find the 2 or 3 rooms are already taken.

It's a nice little website, isn't it? So is yours;D I've heard that they aren't open right now, don't know why, and I could be wrong. If you are looking for lodging up there you may be able to get something through Trudi at tourloreto.com. It will be very local and rustic, and with wonderful people.

Don and I have been wanting to visit Asuncion for a long time now. He'd love to fish with Juan. I hope we get there soon-- it's a long drive, but we're guessing it's well worth the trouble!

shari - 3-8-2009 at 08:22 AM

thanks for that Paula...we usually prefer to stay in mexican owned place if possible to help the local economies...so this information is valuable and we WILL stay there someday...I look forward to it and am glad it is a local family who owns it...it just looked so "uptown" and gorgeous...I mistakenly thought it was a gringo type place...it is so rare to see places so well restored...somebody has their head on straight! thanks again for the good info.
We look forward to meeting you and shwing off our lovely village to you.

[Edited on 3-8-2009 by shari]

Leo - 3-8-2009 at 10:01 AM

I am gladto see they have added some furniture. Casa de Ana is where we stayed a few years ago but I gues they just opened up. There was just a bed. no side-table or chairs. 25 $ then. 35 now is worth it if the shower works.
You are back in time there. very quiet and relaxing.

Iflyfish - 3-8-2009 at 10:24 AM

What a wonderful thread and discussion, viva Nomads!
Thanks for sharing this wonderful place.
Iflyfish