BajaNomad

LIFE IN THE FAST LANE - SANTA YNEZ CAMPGROUND

Pompano - 12-3-2009 at 07:36 AM

Rancho Santa Ynez



Are you a Baja Road traveler looking for a place to stay in Valle De Los Cirios..the most scenic area of central Baja?

There is a convenient lodging or camping experience waiting for you at a rustic place called Rcho Santa Ynez just south of Catavina on the Baja Road.

Not a KOA, but rather a BOT.....'Baja Old Time.'



As you drive south of Catavina keep an eye out on your left..This sign will come within a half-mile of town.

(Nomad Warning Advisory: The spelling police will be monitoring use of Rcho Ines or Inez variations in your replies to this thread. Violators risk post count reduction and Nomad status demotion.)



The road in is 'paved' .... Paved around the potholes and ruts, that is. (p.s. anyone .. please keep an eye out for my mother-in-law's dentures. They're out there somewhere in Baja.)



Secure your flower arrangements!!...and your co-pilot.

Go Slow or your coffee pots, cups, plates, flower vases...and co-pilot will bounce around violently, possible breaking a vase or two. Dang hard to replace in Baja..as are co-pilots.



Not just a campground for tenters & RVers, the ranch offers bunks for the night, too. $10 if you're in the market for a real ranchero experience, right down to the restless sleep if the chupacabras are on the prowl.



Ah..I love camping in Baja. Plus, it is NICE to pull into a campground and NOT be asked.."Are you a Good Sam member?"



Very traveler-friendly. Here we are greeted and shown the way to our site by the camp host.





Forget the 1000 Trails or Passport America membership cards. Here you'll receive a polite smile breaking into a toothy grin. And then you pay the feel-good rate of 'almost free'. About a month ago..Nov 2, 2009..we paid a daily fee of $6 per rig.

For which we had:

-big parking lot..I mean BIG.
-I am guessing 70-80 sites, but you park wherever is handy
-water hookup available (we've never needed one)
-electricity/amps - none - but we have a 5.5 kw genset for your wife's blow dryer
-restaurant
-tenting allowed
-nightly star shows
-full moons displayed each month
-coyote sound effects
-chupacabra sound effects
-copilot sound effects
-sleeping Pompano sound effects
-The ruins of Mission Santa Maria are 23km further east on a poorly maintained dirt road. DK might be there to show you around. ;)




This is Baja Old Time hospitality in a very tranquil setting. Being so close to the Baja Road is a major plus for large rigs.



One complaint. It was kinda crowded this time.



Campground Cafe: If you're looking for a traditional country dining experience, the Rancho Santa Ynez kitchen serves home-style Mexican meals at picnic tables. But because customers are few and far between, the menu is limited to whatever the proprietress, Matilda Valdez, happens to have on hand—in fact, some days you're unlikely to find anything aside from eggs and machaca a cured Mexican meat, but no matter since everything is tasty and you'll tongue-wash the plate.

Be on the lookout for a small white poodle named Palomito...and of course, Gato the ever-present mouser of ranchos.
The first time I camped here was in 1973. We were witness to a huge celebration of road workers, officials, El Governor, reporters, and tourists who commerated the finish of the Baja Road at San Ignacito where the road crews met. A lavish barbeque and mountains of beer. There must have been over a thousand persons on hand.

The highway opened vistas for Rcho Santa Ynez, meeting people from other parts of Mexico. So instead of herding goats, it was able now to make a living from tourism. Every week Rancho Santa Ynéz had a handful of guests, not just Americans and Mexicans, but Italians, Frenchmen, Germans, Canadians, even Norwegians.

Soon after the highway opened there were a lot of people passing through... all kinds of people. There were, just like now, a number of hold-ups, several bad accidents. Like most Baja Californians, the people around Catavina were wary of mainland Mexicans. It's the same around the world, when outsiders come to visit small communities. Some of them are good people, but they have different customs.

Back then it was being run by Josefine Zuniga, but she is long gone from us..maybe 25-30 years ago now..and the place has changed hands a few times since. Mucho history for old time Baja-ites.



"Bad roads, good people," goes the saying, "good roads, bad people." True for Baja.
However, in the case of way Up North, where it actually is REALLY remote, it's a little different situation. Roads are almost non-existent and any access.. or ANY ADDITIONAL BODY HEAT is welcome.

1973...first there was the hotel, the gas station, the trailer park. And added to all that... they had TV, Televisa from Mexico City. There is an seldom used and almost forgotten airstrip on the plateau above the ranch.




And..Now..(drum roll)..Ta Da!..We have satellite RV TV!

(note to TV addicts like myself: The Rancho campground is the furthest south I have ever been able to pick up DirecTV with the little 18" roof top satellite antenna. Now isn't THAT the important fact you will ever need? Kind of strange isn't it..I live in a couple of the most damned remote places on earth and love it..yet crave the tube...and internet now!)

Quoting Hector of Rcho Santa Ynez...“Everything goes so fast. Too Fast!”



"On the Road again. I can't wait to get on the Road again....Making music with my friends... I can't wait to get on the Road again"




[Edited on 12-3-2009 by Pompano]

Diver - 12-3-2009 at 07:49 AM

For just a moment, I was there.....
Feeling the evening desert cooling and ...... waking to the warming reflected sunrise ..... smelling ....

Thank you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Paulina - 12-3-2009 at 08:35 AM

Host and Hostess with the mostest.



Pompano,

We should print out your posts and create a guide book. Love your reports. Can't wait for the next chapter.

P<*)))>{

DianaT - 12-3-2009 at 08:46 AM

Enjoying your report----fun and we really enjoyed Rancho Santa Ynez.

Thanks for putting these together.

Diane

Ken Bondy - 12-3-2009 at 08:46 AM

That lit off some great memories for me too Roger!! Stopped there several times when I was flying and on each road trip. Real BOT. Roger do you know the history of that airstrip? Who built it and who owns it? Did the Zunigas build it for the ranch? It was, well, just weird to land at a paved 4000 ft. strip in reasonably good condition, in the middle of the peninsula. In the 4 or 5 times I landed there (late 70s early 80s) I never saw another airplane. It was fun to land, walk down the steep slope at the east end, and schmooze with the people at the ranch for awhile. Thanks once again para los recuerdos.

David K - 12-3-2009 at 09:30 AM

Great... again! Thank you Roger...

We have stopped many times at Rancho Santa Ynez for lunch or dinner served by Matilda and her family. Oscar & Matilda run/ manage the ranch for the owner. Josefina Zuńiga was the long time owner, when she passed on her American nephew Fred Hampe took over and he recently sold to another American, Don Briggs. There are many lots on the ranch where American have built homes or cabins. Marv and Aletha Patchen have one and wrote a book about it and the many guests who have stayed there and what they wrote in the cabin's guest book... 'Baja Outpost' c2003 Sunbelt Pub.

The spelling is correct, as far as the founder of the ranch is concerned: Santa Ynez is how she liked it... Technically it should be 'Ines' (official maps/ AAA/ Almanac), and appears that way on some items sold the ranch, too. Then there are variations, posted here and is books and articles: Ynes, Inez, Innes, Innez...

The road to Mision Santa Maria is an adventure for the off roaders... 14 1/2 miles and 3 hours away... http://vivabaja.com/msm Don't be surprised by seeing bighorn sheep there, as we did!

The airport was originally where the entrance road is now, a dirt strip then. This helped make Santa Ynez a perfect checkpoint for the Baja 1000 race whenever it went this way. When presidntial candidate Echeverria toured Baja in the late 1960's, he stayed at Santa Ynez. He must have been impressed, because when the highway he promissed Baja would have was completed before the end of his term, Santa Ynez got a paved driveway and a new paved airstrip... up on the hill above the old one.

Lot's of history here!

Skipjack Joe - 12-3-2009 at 10:10 AM

We stop there on every single trip, both coming and going.

Alex loves the meat they use in their tacos and I'm fond of their cheese. Tastes like Greek feta cheese. The Senora will mother you too death. And that's always nice. One never gets too old for that. She treats her guests like children.

P.S. I'm glad you passed the test, Roger.

[Edited on 12-3-2009 by Skipjack Joe]

Some Rancho Santa Ynez Photos

David K - 12-3-2009 at 10:35 AM

1982:

David K and Dad




1999:

Baja Mur & David K






2001:

The Viva Baja Van and P.O.T. (Poor Old Truck) gang at Rancho Santa Ynez, for lunch. Seated: Sarah, Miguelito, Chris, Mary Ann, Travelpearl, Desert Rat. Standing: David Eidell, El Camote, Mike Humfreville. July 2, 2001




2003:

Oscar is showing us a trick he taught 'Rayo' ('Lightning').






2007:

Blanche and Elizabeth chat with ranch managers Matilda ad Oscar.

Perfect timing!

fixtrauma - 12-3-2009 at 10:53 AM

We have been planning to stay at Santa Ynez on our drive to La Paz mid December. We have driven past but have never stopped. So thanks Pompano for the pictures and report.

It looks like a great place to rest after a day of driving.

:)

Packoderm - 12-3-2009 at 11:01 AM

I'll give the elusive tour of Santa Ines's indoor accommodations.

Here you'll find one of many bunks contained in each room. The blankets feel heavy against your body to fight off the cold, but even then adding your own sleeping bag on top helps.



For those with special need, such as the need to use the bathroom, Sta. Ines offers this to add to its rustic charm.


For campers, they offer bathroom facilities.

LancairDriver - 12-3-2009 at 12:20 PM

If I were a literary agent I would be beating a path to Pompano's door! Thanks for the fantastic pictures and commentary. This all really needs to be compiled and published, and I hope it will be someday.

capt. mike - 12-3-2009 at 01:12 PM

Ken - there are sections in Marv Patchen's and Greg Nieman's books about the paved airport installation. it's quite interesting and how one of the local Dones negotiated it. I think Jimmy Smith's book covers it too.
check it out. all good readings.

Roger!

toneart - 12-3-2009 at 01:31 PM

Of all the ironic events of happenstance, that Winnebago parked under the tree beyond in one of your photos was me. Rather is belongs to Sherry, a woman that I caravaned with. My F150 was parked on the other side of it and is shielded from view in your photograph.

I think you must have been heading south. We were heading north. We pulled in after you were settled and we left before you. I was out in the morning exercising my dog Paco. He actually ran over to check you out, but there was no sign of life coming from your RV. I wish I had known it was you. I would have built a bonfire and brought out the Pacifico.

surfer jim - 12-3-2009 at 03:52 PM

Looks good....EXCEPT for that toilet :no:

Note to self: stick to porta potti.....:yes:

Wow! Tony...the world's a small place.

Pompano - 12-3-2009 at 04:12 PM

This one will go in my records for sure.
Quote:
Originally posted by toneart
Of all the ironic events of happenstance, that Winnebago parked under the tree beyond in one of your photos was me. Rather is belongs to Sherry, a woman that I caravaned with. My F150 was parked on the other side of it and is shielded from view in your photograph.

I think you must have been heading south. We were heading north. We pulled in after you were settled and we left before you. I was out in the morning exercising my dog Paco. He actually ran over to check you out, but there was no sign of life coming from your RV. I wish I had known it was you. I would have built a bonfire and brought out the Pacifico.


Damn told, Tony...and sure wish you would have. Could have had a good reunion at this nice campground. I was just joking about being crowded of course and you guys would have been most welcome at our door.

Hope we can cross paths again soon, amigo.
And...Saw Zulema today..she pines for you. ;)

Roger

Bajahowodd - 12-3-2009 at 04:28 PM

If nowhere had a middle, it might just be located here. Driven past more times than I can remember. Of course, I'm not driving an RV. Spent a number of nights at the Presidente, La Pinta, Desert Inn, but not recently. Learned to time my trip to keep on keeping on. I thought it rather telling about the "limited" menu. guessing that while the refrigerated truck stops regularly at the Desert Inn, these nice folks have to scrounge.

Steve&Debby - 12-3-2009 at 09:19 PM

Looks like a great place to stay.How far is it from Ensanada? In a motorhome could you make it in one day?

[Edited on 12-4-2009 by Steve&;Debby]

DianaT - 12-3-2009 at 09:39 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Steve&;Debby
Looks like a great place to stay.How far is it from Ensanada? In a motorhome could you make it in one day?

[Edited on 12-4-2009 by Steve&;Debby]


Yes--

Ken Bondy - 12-3-2009 at 09:45 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by capt. mike
Ken - there are sections in Marv Patchen's and Greg Nieman's books about the paved airport installation. it's quite interesting and how one of the local Dones negotiated it. I think Jimmy Smith's book covers it too.
check it out. all good readings.


Thanks mike. I have all three books, will take a look! ++Ken++

Bob H - 12-3-2009 at 09:59 PM

Roger, love your post and photos. We camp there every time we pass through. We had a fantastic sunset last time. I always look forward to your photo logs!
Bob H



A cow visited us by the rear of our cabover camper.


I think we had the same spot as you had... by those two trees! Bob H Edit: Nah, your two trees are much bigger!


[Edited on 12-4-2009 by Bob H]

dtbushpilot - 12-3-2009 at 10:21 PM

Thanks for your report Pompano, brings me back to my very first Baja adventure years ago.

I had read all the books that I could find, loaded up the Cherokee and camper and headed South. All the books warned about the food especially ANYTHING THAT WAS WASHED IN LOCAL WATER not being fit to eat and consequences would ensue......One book said to be sure and stop at Rancho San Inez for tacos so that's what we did. I was still a bit nervous in this wild country and thought it was unusual that I had to shoo a chicken off the table to sit down but the tic infested dog at my feet was friendly so I sat down. In my best Spanish I said "tacos" and fortunately that was all that needed to be said. I watched as the smiling lady behind the counter began to prepare my meal. Everything looked fine till she took a tomato and swished in a galvanized tub of "mystery fluid" and chopped it up on my tacos soon to be followed by a head of cabbage washed in the same manner and added to my tacos. I was horrified, all that I had read warned me about just this scenario and here I was confronted by it. What should I do, what was the proper protocol for such a faux pas?

Smiling, she placed the plate of tacos and beans in front of me.....beads of sweat formed on my forehead and upper lip....what should I do? Run screaming to the car? Give it to the dog? Throw it at the chicken? I just didn't know what to do but I knew I was really hungry and mystery fluid or not it smelled really good. I decided to throw caution to the wind, go deep, make a Baja commitment, I was going to eat it.

About half way through the second taco.....as grease was dripping from my elbow and a party along with Mariachis was going on inside my mouth I realized that I had arrived in Baja. These were the best tacos that I had ever eaten.

Now days, on our trips up or down we always try to hold out for San Inez for lunch, one of the last real "Baja" experiences left and the best tacos on the planet.....dt

motoged - 12-3-2009 at 11:15 PM

Pompano,
You said:
(Nomad Warning Advisory: The spelling police will be monitoring use of Rcho Ines or Inez variations in your replies to this thread. Violators risk post count reduction and Nomad status demotion.)


Well....




;D;D

motoged - 12-3-2009 at 11:24 PM

The restaurant has lovely table settings...





Games and sporting equipment...





and the next meal was nearby...


BAJACAT - 12-3-2009 at 11:31 PM

Yes i like the Mexican Fud sign.. thats for sharing your trip. Rancho Santa Ynes is where I spend one of my cooldest camping night in Baja, HURRRR,HURRRR

wessongroup - 12-4-2009 at 06:18 AM

Thanks to all, very fine report and some of the writing make a bit afraid to post... some of you must be retired writers or something... again thanks for taking the time on your the trip down photograph the roll... just great.. and all the others contributions just make it a nice read:):)

David K - 12-4-2009 at 09:21 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Steve&;Debby
Looks like a great place to stay.How far is it from Ensanada? In a motorhome could you make it in one day?

[Edited on 12-4-2009 by Steve&;Debby]


230 miles... 6 hours, yes.

dtutko1 - 12-12-2009 at 08:48 AM

We camped under/near those same manzanita? trees. They must be 100+ years old. We had onion enchiladas. We bought a wheelbarrel of lenya for 50 pecos, had a great fire, and when we woke up the next morning surrounded by cows and horses. It was their trees.

Rancho Sta Ines/z

SunnyDay - 12-12-2009 at 01:16 PM

That 5th photo is a shot of the Flying Samaritan clinic. There's a runway just up behind it. The great Baja traveler Marv Patchen and wife Alethea, who started exploring in 1958 (per his book on my shelf, printed in 1981), have a small cabin up past the run way to the left. A charming tiny spot he has opened to all the people, he even wrote a small book about its guest book. Althea was one of, or THE, first woman in the Baja 1000. Also, their good friends, Ralph and Pat, live up behind the ranch house in a super set-up they've built over the years. He used to fly back and forth from New Mexico for the winter. He usually patrols on his quad several times a day. Don't know if Marv is still with us, he was failing last I saw him a couple years ago, and Ralph and Pat, great friends to the Flying Sams too, may have decided to "retire" -- but I doubt it. Would love to hear the latest on these great adventurers and friend to all who traveled through.

shari - 12-12-2009 at 02:02 PM

Sta.Ynes...what a wonderful baja classic stop. Let me tell ya, I've been so happy to see that pink bathroom and toilet more than once...after days of squatting, it was nice to use a real toilet and so feminine too!!!
Keep your eyes out on the right side of the road going back to the highway a bit more than halfway to the highway...and you might spot the whales' tale cactus.

cactustailborder.jpg - 49kB

David K - 12-12-2009 at 05:24 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by SunnyDay
That 5th photo is a shot of the Flying Samaritan clinic. There's a runway just up behind it. The great Baja traveler Marv Patchen and wife Alethea, who started exploring in 1958 (per his book on my shelf, printed in 1981), have a small cabin up past the run way to the left. A charming tiny spot he has opened to all the people, he even wrote a small book about its guest book. Althea was one of, or THE, first woman in the Baja 1000. Also, their good friends, Ralph and Pat, live up behind the ranch house in a super set-up they've built over the years. He used to fly back and forth from New Mexico for the winter. He usually patrols on his quad several times a day. Don't know if Marv is still with us, he was failing last I saw him a couple years ago, and Ralph and Pat, great friends to the Flying Sams too, may have decided to "retire" -- but I doubt it. Would love to hear the latest on these great adventurers and friend to all who traveled through.








Aletha and Marv in 2005, Canebrake, CA (ask 'Hook'
where that is!) :yes:




Marv's baja racing helmet turned into a planter:



More photos from when Baja Angel and I spent a weekend with the Patchen's at: http://vivabaja.com/patchen/