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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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LIFE IN THE FAST LANE - SANTA YNEZ CAMPGROUND
Rancho Santa Ynez
Are you a Baja Road traveler looking for a place to stay in Valle De Los Cirios..the most scenic area of central Baja?
There is a convenient lodging or camping experience waiting for you at a rustic place called Rcho Santa Ynez just south of Catavina
on the Baja Road.
Not a KOA, but rather a BOT.....'Baja Old Time.'
As you drive south of Catavina keep an eye out on your left..This sign will come within a half-mile of town.
(Nomad Warning Advisory: The spelling police will be monitoring use of Rcho Ines or Inez variations in your replies to this
thread. Violators risk post count reduction and Nomad status demotion.)
The road in is 'paved' .... Paved around the potholes and ruts, that is. (p.s. anyone .. please keep an eye out
for my mother-in-law's dentures. They're out there somewhere in Baja.)
Secure your flower arrangements!!...and your co-pilot.
Go Slow or your coffee pots, cups, plates, flower vases...and co-pilot will bounce around violently, possible breaking a vase or two. Dang hard to
replace in Baja..as are co-pilots.
Not just a campground for tenters & RVers, the ranch offers bunks for the night, too. $10 if you're in the market for a real ranchero
experience, right down to the restless sleep if the chupacabras are on the prowl.
Ah..I love camping in Baja. Plus, it is NICE to pull into a campground and NOT be asked.."Are you a Good Sam member?"
Very traveler-friendly. Here we are greeted and shown the way to our site by the camp host.
Forget the 1000 Trails or Passport America membership cards. Here you'll receive a polite smile breaking into a toothy grin. And then you pay the
feel-good rate of 'almost free'. About a month ago..Nov 2, 2009..we paid a daily fee of $6 per rig.
For which we had:
-big parking lot..I mean BIG.
-I am guessing 70-80 sites, but you park wherever is handy
-water hookup available (we've never needed one)
-electricity/amps - none - but we have a 5.5 kw genset for your wife's blow dryer
-restaurant
-tenting allowed
-nightly star shows
-full moons displayed each month
-coyote sound effects
-chupacabra sound effects
-copilot sound effects
-sleeping Pompano sound effects
-The ruins of Mission Santa Maria are 23km further east on a poorly maintained dirt road. DK might be there to show you around. 
This is Baja Old Time hospitality in a very tranquil setting. Being so close to the Baja Road is a major plus for large rigs.
One complaint. It was kinda crowded this time.
Campground Cafe: If you're looking for a traditional country dining experience, the Rancho Santa Ynez kitchen serves home-style
Mexican meals at picnic tables. But because customers are few and far between, the menu is limited to whatever the proprietress, Matilda Valdez,
happens to have on hand—in fact, some days you're unlikely to find anything aside from eggs and machaca a cured Mexican meat, but no
matter since everything is tasty and you'll tongue-wash the plate.
Be on the lookout for a small white poodle named Palomito...and of course, Gato the ever-present mouser of ranchos.
The first time I camped here was in 1973. We were witness to a huge celebration of road workers, officials, El Governor, reporters, and tourists who
commerated the finish of the Baja Road at San Ignacito where the road crews met. A lavish barbeque and mountains of beer. There must have been over
a thousand persons on hand.
The highway opened vistas for Rcho Santa Ynez, meeting people from other parts of Mexico. So instead of herding goats, it was able now to make a
living from tourism. Every week Rancho Santa Ynéz had a handful of guests, not just Americans and Mexicans, but Italians, Frenchmen, Germans,
Canadians, even Norwegians.
Soon after the highway opened there were a lot of people passing through... all kinds of people. There were, just like now, a number of hold-ups,
several bad accidents. Like most Baja Californians, the people around Catavina were wary of mainland Mexicans. It's the same around the world, when
outsiders come to visit small communities. Some of them are good people, but they have different customs.
Back then it was being run by Josefine Zuniga, but she is long gone from us..maybe 25-30 years ago now..and the place has changed hands a few times
since. Mucho history for old time Baja-ites.
"Bad roads, good people," goes the saying, "good roads, bad people." True for Baja.
However, in the case of way Up North, where it actually is REALLY remote, it's a little different situation. Roads are almost
non-existent and any access.. or ANY ADDITIONAL BODY HEAT is welcome.
1973...first there was the hotel, the gas station, the trailer park. And added to all that... they had TV, Televisa from Mexico City.
There is an seldom used and almost forgotten airstrip on the plateau above the ranch.
And..Now..(drum roll)..Ta Da!..We have satellite RV TV!
(note to TV addicts like myself: The Rancho campground is the furthest south I have ever been able to pick up DirecTV with the little 18" roof top
satellite antenna. Now isn't THAT the important fact you will ever need? Kind of strange isn't it..I live in a couple of the most damned remote
places on earth and love it..yet crave the tube...and internet now!)
Quoting Hector of Rcho Santa Ynez...“Everything goes so fast. Too Fast!”
"On the Road again. I can't wait to get on the Road again....Making music with my friends... I can't wait to get on the Road
again"
[Edited on 12-3-2009 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Diver
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4729
Registered: 11-15-2004
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For just a moment, I was there.....
Feeling the evening desert cooling and ...... waking to the warming reflected sunrise ..... smelling ....
Thank you !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Paulina
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3810
Registered: 8-31-2002
Location: BCN
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Host and Hostess with the mostest.
Pompano,
We should print out your posts and create a guide book. Love your reports. Can't wait for the next chapter.
P<*)))>{
\"Well behaved women rarely make history.\" Laurel Thatcher Ulrich
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Enjoying your report----fun and we really enjoyed Rancho Santa Ynez.
Thanks for putting these together.
Diane
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Ken Bondy
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Posts: 3326
Registered: 12-13-2002
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That lit off some great memories for me too Roger!! Stopped there several times when I was flying and on each road trip. Real BOT. Roger do you
know the history of that airstrip? Who built it and who owns it? Did the Zunigas build it for the ranch? It was, well, just weird to land at a
paved 4000 ft. strip in reasonably good condition, in the middle of the peninsula. In the 4 or 5 times I landed there (late 70s early 80s) I never
saw another airplane. It was fun to land, walk down the steep slope at the east end, and schmooze with the people at the ranch for awhile. Thanks
once again para los recuerdos.
carpe diem!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64949
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Great... again! Thank you Roger...
We have stopped many times at Rancho Santa Ynez for lunch or dinner served by Matilda and her family. Oscar & Matilda run/ manage the ranch for
the owner. Josefina Zuńiga was the long time owner, when she passed on her American nephew Fred Hampe took over and he recently sold to another
American, Don Briggs. There are many lots on the ranch where American have built homes or cabins. Marv and Aletha Patchen have one and wrote a book
about it and the many guests who have stayed there and what they wrote in the cabin's guest book... 'Baja Outpost' c2003 Sunbelt Pub.
The spelling is correct, as far as the founder of the ranch is concerned: Santa Ynez is how she liked it... Technically it should be 'Ines' (official
maps/ AAA/ Almanac), and appears that way on some items sold the ranch, too. Then there are variations, posted here and is books and articles: Ynes,
Inez, Innes, Innez...
The road to Mision Santa Maria is an adventure for the off roaders... 14 1/2 miles and 3 hours away... http://vivabaja.com/msm Don't be surprised by seeing bighorn sheep there, as we did!
The airport was originally where the entrance road is now, a dirt strip then. This helped make Santa Ynez a perfect checkpoint for the Baja 1000 race
whenever it went this way. When presidntial candidate Echeverria toured Baja in the late 1960's, he stayed at Santa Ynez. He must have been impressed,
because when the highway he promissed Baja would have was completed before the end of his term, Santa Ynez got a paved driveway and a new paved
airstrip... up on the hill above the old one.
Lot's of history here!
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
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Location: Bahia Asuncion
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We stop there on every single trip, both coming and going.
Alex loves the meat they use in their tacos and I'm fond of their cheese. Tastes like Greek feta cheese. The Senora will mother you too death. And
that's always nice. One never gets too old for that. She treats her guests like children.
P.S. I'm glad you passed the test, Roger.
[Edited on 12-3-2009 by Skipjack Joe]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64949
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Some Rancho Santa Ynez Photos
1982:
David K and Dad
1999:
Baja Mur & David K
2001:
The Viva Baja Van and P.O.T. (Poor Old Truck) gang at Rancho Santa Ynez, for lunch. Seated: Sarah, Miguelito, Chris, Mary Ann, Travelpearl, Desert
Rat. Standing: David Eidell, El Camote, Mike Humfreville. July 2, 2001
2003:
Oscar is showing us a trick he taught 'Rayo' ('Lightning').
2007:
Blanche and Elizabeth chat with ranch managers Matilda ad Oscar.
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fixtrauma
Nomad
Posts: 389
Registered: 11-17-2008
Location: El Centenario & Lebanon,Oregon
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Perfect timing!
We have been planning to stay at Santa Ynez on our drive to La Paz mid December. We have driven past but have never stopped. So thanks Pompano for
the pictures and report.
It looks like a great place to rest after a day of driving.
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Packoderm
Super Nomad
Posts: 2116
Registered: 11-7-2002
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I'll give the elusive tour of Santa Ines's indoor accommodations.
Here you'll find one of many bunks contained in each room. The blankets feel heavy against your body to fight off the cold, but even then adding your
own sleeping bag on top helps.
For those with special need, such as the need to use the bathroom, Sta. Ines offers this to add to its rustic charm.
For campers, they offer bathroom facilities.
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LancairDriver
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If I were a literary agent I would be beating a path to Pompano's door! Thanks for the fantastic pictures and commentary. This all really needs to be
compiled and published, and I hope it will be someday.
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
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Ken - there are sections in Marv Patchen's and Greg Nieman's books about the paved airport installation. it's quite interesting and how one of the
local Dones negotiated it. I think Jimmy Smith's book covers it too.
check it out. all good readings.
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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toneart
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Roger!
Of all the ironic events of happenstance, that Winnebago parked under the tree beyond in one of your photos was me. Rather is belongs to Sherry, a
woman that I caravaned with. My F150 was parked on the other side of it and is shielded from view in your photograph.
I think you must have been heading south. We were heading north. We pulled in after you were settled and we left before you. I was out in the morning
exercising my dog Paco. He actually ran over to check you out, but there was no sign of life coming from your RV. I wish I had known it was you. I
would have built a bonfire and brought out the Pacifico.
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surfer jim
Super Nomad
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Looks good....EXCEPT for that toilet 
Note to self: stick to porta potti.....
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
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Mood: Optimistic
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Wow! Tony...the world's a small place.
This one will go in my records for sure.
| Quote: | Originally posted by toneart
Of all the ironic events of happenstance, that Winnebago parked under the tree beyond in one of your photos was me. Rather is belongs to Sherry, a
woman that I caravaned with. My F150 was parked on the other side of it and is shielded from view in your photograph.
I think you must have been heading south. We were heading north. We pulled in after you were settled and we left before you. I was out in the morning
exercising my dog Paco. He actually ran over to check you out, but there was no sign of life coming from your RV. I wish I had known it was you. I
would have built a bonfire and brought out the Pacifico. |
Damn told, Tony...and sure wish you would have. Could have had a good reunion at this nice campground. I was just joking about being crowded of
course and you guys would have been most welcome at our door.
Hope we can cross paths again soon, amigo.
And...Saw Zulema today..she pines for you.
Roger
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Bajahowodd
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Posts: 9274
Registered: 12-15-2008
Location: Disneyland Adjacent and anywhere in Baja
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If nowhere had a middle, it might just be located here. Driven past more times than I can remember. Of course, I'm not driving an RV. Spent a number
of nights at the Presidente, La Pinta, Desert Inn, but not recently. Learned to time my trip to keep on keeping on. I thought it rather telling about
the "limited" menu. guessing that while the refrigerated truck stops regularly at the Desert Inn, these nice folks have to scrounge.
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Steve&Debby
Nomad
Posts: 335
Registered: 12-18-2007
Location: Colusa,California/ Percebu
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Looks like a great place to stay.How far is it from Ensanada? In a motorhome could you make it in one day?
[Edited on 12-4-2009 by Steve& ebby]
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DianaT
Select Nomad
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Registered: 12-17-2004
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Steve&ebby
Looks like a great place to stay.How far is it from Ensanada? In a motorhome could you make it in one day?
[Edited on 12-4-2009 by Steve&ebby] |
Yes--
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Ken Bondy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3326
Registered: 12-13-2002
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| Quote: | Originally posted by capt. mike
Ken - there are sections in Marv Patchen's and Greg Nieman's books about the paved airport installation. it's quite interesting and how one of the
local Dones negotiated it. I think Jimmy Smith's book covers it too.
check it out. all good readings. |
Thanks mike. I have all three books, will take a look! ++Ken++
carpe diem!
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
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Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
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Roger, love your post and photos. We camp there every time we pass through. We had a fantastic sunset last time. I always look forward to your
photo logs!
Bob H
A cow visited us by the rear of our cabover camper.
I think we had the same spot as you had... by those two trees! Bob H Edit: Nah, your two trees are much bigger!
[Edited on 12-4-2009 by Bob H]
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