Pedal a bicycle into the mountains. The Sierra Pedro in Baja. At the last tienda before the pavement ran out a guy in a funny hat said [ back, you
go back ]. All right, he really broke a stick into pieces in an attempt to show me what to expect from the road.
I have a good stock pile of water, three days worth. Route finding should be easy, my map shows only a couple of roads. The road follows the river,
river of sand. Soft sand great for camping. A little hard to pedal in though. With most of the water gone my bike gets a lot lighter and easier to
push through the sand.
The canyons in the lower foot hills are, worth a look. The pools of cool clear water appear, and flow under ground again. The caves show signs of
human use for thousands of years. Lost on the wrong road. A blessing. A wonder land. people know not from wince they came. The caves show signs
of human use for thousands of years.
Another day, I meet a man in a truck, taking some sheep to market. Sir, is this the road to San Pedro? Taking his hat of, he puts his hand on his
head and shakes it no. There is a language barrier. He is pointing and then motioning to go left. This becomes the daily routine.
A man invites me into his mountain home for coffee. Adobe bricks, palm frond roof, dirt floor. His wife makes the best coffee. When I ask about
the road to San Pedro, he motions that I have to go up up up. With a stick he draws a map in the dirt. He talks on his CB radio. The only words I
pick out are Americana, and San Pedro. He says the odd motor cycle passes this way, but this is the first bicycle to pass by.
Sometimes the road is fist sized rocks, sometimes football sized rocks., other times, hard packed dirt, always more sand. Some times I pedal
sometimes I push. My map does not show all the roads all the small ranchos. I am told there are many ranchos that have no road. Every person I meet
asks if I have food and water, I do, yes.
One afternoon; I accept an invitation to lunch. Rice with small pieces of tomato cut on top, beans, tortiass, and coffee. The plates look like
depression glass, the kind my great grandmother had. I try to use my best manners and eat only a little. His wife and two daughters are beautifull.
His open air, palm frond roofed dinning area separate his sleeping quarters, and his dirt floor kitchen. on the way out I hand him 50 pesos. He
reaches back from his chair and picks two oranges and a lemon for me. There are some fine horses here. Did I forget how to live right?
As I gain elevation the road gets steep. I take three steps up, slide back two. and give the bike a push. The cowboys are riding donkeys now. They
look at me take their hat off and scratch their head. San Pedro? By know they all heard about the loco gringo crossing the mountain. When was the
last time a cowboy stooped to let a bicycle go by? I find gates open, 100 feet up the mountain I look back and see a man close the gate. I see five
more cowboys in leather chaps push a tree branch aside and ride donkeys out of a rocky creek bed. Muchos ranchos no camino.
Is the mountain to much for me? No. I can make it. Dark this early? Full moon, winter solstice. I have to make it to the top. Going down is not so
easy. I have modern brakes, they are no match for the mountain. miles go by, at last a flat spot to lay my tired self down. To tired to cook food,
guess again. Plain rice never tasted so good.
Shortest day of the year. Plenty of time to explore an old mission. My supplies all but gone, my water very low, I can not find the mission water.
Two oranges and a lemon, yes!
The hills are ride able now. The 29 inch wheels roll over football sized rocks quite well, when I need water, I'm brave on the long down hill. A
bridge building crew has running water piped in from ??? Running water all I want. Drink, wash, all I want. Cool clear water.
At last a tienda in a mountain village. Tuna, crackers, cold coke. Does the lady yell at me for having a weeks worth of dirt on my shirt? No. She
knows I don't read Spanish, so she puts what I think are crackers back on the shelf, and hands me crackers with a picture of tuna on them, thanks.
More miles of rocky down hill, one last camp, last of the 20 patches on my tubes. Only 20 miles of highway 1. Whats wrong with the fat lady in the
silver Honda with the California plate, must be her road.
hotel, hot water, sleep.
[Edited on 12-27-2010 by chrisx]woody with a view - 12-24-2010 at 07:47 PM
fat lady in a honda? this from an anorexic on a seat post missing the seat. that was alot of hot air just to take a swipe at someone in a car.
[Edited on 12-25-2010 by woody with a view]bajabound2005 - 12-25-2010 at 12:07 AM
you have 29" inch wheels on your MTB? check your u2u.David K - 12-25-2010 at 08:49 AM
It would be interesting if we knew where you were talking about...
1) "The Sierra Pedro in Baja." (?) Sierra San Pedro on AAA map?
2) "Sir, is this the road to San Pedro? Taking his hat of, he puts his hand on his head and shakes his it no." (?) Where did you leave Hwy. 1 to head
into the mountains?
3) "Plenty of time to explore an old mission." (?) Guadalupe? Only some walls remain.
4) "At last a tienda in a mountain village." (?) San Jose de Magdalena?
5) "Only 20 miles of highway 1." (?) To Mulege from the Magdalena junction?
Am I close? Thanks!willyAirstream - 12-25-2010 at 09:26 AM
chrisx ,
Really enjoyed your post, and I hope you keep writing. Did you take pics? Tell us more, it is very entertaining.DENNIS - 12-25-2010 at 09:33 AM
Quote:
Originally posted by David K
It would be interesting if we knew where you were talking about...
we are really enjoying your adventure and loving your writing style...very unique and knowing you Chris, I can easily picture in my mind's eye you
with the ranchers...thanks for describing it so precisely...made me smile. I am certain you are again discovering how to live...hechale ganas
amigo...suerte.rhintransit - 12-25-2010 at 10:52 AM
thanks for the posts, I've been enjoying them. I don't bike but I occasionally host bicyclists traveling Hwy 1. most stick to the highway. a few
have other routes; one couple did San Filipe south...they had some stories to tell and both agreed it was the worst cycling experience they'd ever
had. of course they were loaded down for traveling and hadn't done due diligence on the route.BajaBlanca - 12-25-2010 at 11:36 PM
really interesting writing style. great descriptions. unique takes. I am sooo fat, wish I could even get on a bike )) for more than 5 minutes.Brian L - 12-26-2010 at 10:12 AM
Yep. great writing, I do appreciate it.chrisx - 12-27-2010 at 11:15 AM
29 inch wheels are the future,
1. no AAA map
2. oops, SS SW from San Ignacio
3. Guadalupe, yes. could not find the water
4. San Jose
5. Santa Rosalia
evil cousin?
thinking of getting some better German tires and going back down.
last year I went from Cativina - Cocos Corner - Puertecitos - San Felipe. I explored the giant boulder city, East of Cocos, for a couple of days as
water would allow, and for refuge from the wind storm. The grand parents of the guy in the video had a road block, but that's another story.mcfez - 12-27-2010 at 01:09 PM
I agree. Now this is an interesting story. Good reading material. We all appreciate Baja Trip reports.
"Taking his hat of, he puts his hand on his head and shakes it no. There is a language barrier. ...........
Seems to be the norm for Baja. I love the people of this great land.
You know chrisx.....if you get into a real fix (problem).....there's a BN nearby willing to help out.
I would however refrain from call us Californians names though.
"Whats wrong with the fat lady in the silver Honda with the California plate, must be her road".
[Edited on 12-27-2010 by mcfez]BAJACAT - 12-28-2010 at 08:23 PM
Chris, what kind of bike you are riding, maybe I miss it..from early post..
)) for more than 5 minutes.