The Historic Balneario at Playa San Pedrito, near Todos Santos BCS

(For the three of you who didn't head north at the first hint of summer)

Summer is here that means beach outings are on the famly agenda. Here in La Paz, we have many fine places to choose from that are easily reached in an hour or less. Of course, they are all on the Gulf.

When our family feels like something a bit different, we head over to Playa San Pedrito (not to be confused with the camp ground/RV park by the same name), a beach on the Pacific Coast about five miles south of Todos Santos. Although it's on the open ocean, the beach itself is flanked by two rocky points which afford it a degree of protection from the stronger ocean currents. While I would hesitate to let small children into the ocean (there's also a nice fresh-water stream at San Pedrito) unless I were at their side, my young teenagers have learned how to handle ocean waves at San Pedrito while enjoying the rides to shore they provide (on short boards).

The parking area is less than two miles off the newly built divided highway (you can reach the exit only while heading south, just past the Agricultural Experimentation station on the left), down a dirt road that is accessible even to rental cars driven with care. If, on your way down the dirt road you pass a large, abandoned building (an old fish packing plant) on the left and, when you arrive on the beach, you find a small fishing community and pangas, you're one beach short of San Pedrito. Go back to the highway and take the next exit, just a good wind-driven spit down the road.

Once you reach the parking lot, at the edge of an impressive native palm grove, you still have a half-mile hike through easy, shaded terrain before reaching the beach. We bring a dolly (the kind with the inflated tires, for the sand. They strap nicely to roof racks) to carry the ice chest, shade, etc. down to the beach. You'll likely be surprised when you see some of the shapes the trunks of the palms have taken.

Just prior to reaching the beach, you'll cross the year-round fresh-water stream that empties into the ocean. To the left, built into the rocky face, are the remains of an old kiosk which was once used by the property owners to entertain visitors. In Irigoyen's book on the Transpeninsular Highway, published in 1943, is a photo of what the structure looked like in better days.

Speaking of better days, at one time the vast holdings around San Pedrito were part of an Hacienda that produced sugar cane. The property had many buildings and included its own trapiche (sugar cane press) and a private landing strip.

It's a great spot to take some carnitas or a pollo asado and chest full of your beverages of choice. Take some shade, too, the sun is brutal in the summer. The beach usually isn't crowded, and when there have been other people, they've always been low key and considerate. The stream has a shallow water hole for rinsing off that salty feeling the ocean leaves on you.

If you stay until the afternoon, you'll likely meet Rodolfo, the caretaker, who comes out to inform visitors that he's the one who keeps the area clean and cars safe. Obviously a hint, should you wish to contribute to his family's well-being. As the photos below make clear, the man does do a good job of keeping litter in check (I usually donate 20 pesos to the cause). Access to the beach is free, although there are several warning signs asking that you not light fires or camp overnight. On my last visit, I asked Rodolfo for a tour of the old Hacienda, which he was happy to provide.

I've included some photos to entice anyone interested:

The palm grove you pass through. Note the shapes of the trunks.


Another view of the area


One of the rocky points that protects Playa San Pedrito.


The beach itself


The stream


Surf's Up! Note the smiles, if you can.


What remains of the old kiosk


The old hacienda


Inside the brick room on the second floor

Great Baja POI (point of interest) report, Steve!!! Looks like Hawaii!


Here is the airport page for San Pedrito from Arnold Senterfitt's 17th edition of Airports of Baja California (1987)... The runway is X'd which means closed when the book went to press. The details and photo given are about the same as found in his 1969 edition, when it was open.






Now, back 20 more years to 1967 and Senterfitt's 4th Edition Airports of Baja book:

SAN PEDRITO

Here are some photos of the fish packing plant with the palo de arco roof re-enforcement that Jack Swords mentioned. If you look closely at the second and third photos, you can see the "rebar" hanging down.









[Edited on 7-1-2011 by Bajatripper]