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Author: Subject: The Historic Balneario at Playa San Pedrito, near Todos Santos BCS
Bajatripper
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[*] posted on 6-29-2011 at 01:44 PM
The Historic Balneario at Playa San Pedrito, near Todos Santos BCS


(For the three of you who didn't head north at the first hint of summer)

Summer is here that means beach outings are on the famly agenda. Here in La Paz, we have many fine places to choose from that are easily reached in an hour or less. Of course, they are all on the Gulf.

When our family feels like something a bit different, we head over to Playa San Pedrito (not to be confused with the camp ground/RV park by the same name), a beach on the Pacific Coast about five miles south of Todos Santos. Although it's on the open ocean, the beach itself is flanked by two rocky points which afford it a degree of protection from the stronger ocean currents. While I would hesitate to let small children into the ocean (there's also a nice fresh-water stream at San Pedrito) unless I were at their side, my young teenagers have learned how to handle ocean waves at San Pedrito while enjoying the rides to shore they provide (on short boards).

The parking area is less than two miles off the newly built divided highway (you can reach the exit only while heading south, just past the Agricultural Experimentation station on the left), down a dirt road that is accessible even to rental cars driven with care. If, on your way down the dirt road you pass a large, abandoned building (an old fish packing plant) on the left and, when you arrive on the beach, you find a small fishing community and pangas, you're one beach short of San Pedrito. Go back to the highway and take the next exit, just a good wind-driven spit down the road.

Once you reach the parking lot, at the edge of an impressive native palm grove, you still have a half-mile hike through easy, shaded terrain before reaching the beach. We bring a dolly (the kind with the inflated tires, for the sand. They strap nicely to roof racks) to carry the ice chest, shade, etc. down to the beach. You'll likely be surprised when you see some of the shapes the trunks of the palms have taken.

Just prior to reaching the beach, you'll cross the year-round fresh-water stream that empties into the ocean. To the left, built into the rocky face, are the remains of an old kiosk which was once used by the property owners to entertain visitors. In Irigoyen's book on the Transpeninsular Highway, published in 1943, is a photo of what the structure looked like in better days.

Speaking of better days, at one time the vast holdings around San Pedrito were part of an Hacienda that produced sugar cane. The property had many buildings and included its own trapiche (sugar cane press) and a private landing strip.

It's a great spot to take some carnitas or a pollo asado and chest full of your beverages of choice. Take some shade, too, the sun is brutal in the summer. The beach usually isn't crowded, and when there have been other people, they've always been low key and considerate. The stream has a shallow water hole for rinsing off that salty feeling the ocean leaves on you.

If you stay until the afternoon, you'll likely meet Rodolfo, the caretaker, who comes out to inform visitors that he's the one who keeps the area clean and cars safe. Obviously a hint, should you wish to contribute to his family's well-being. As the photos below make clear, the man does do a good job of keeping litter in check (I usually donate 20 pesos to the cause). Access to the beach is free, although there are several warning signs asking that you not light fires or camp overnight. On my last visit, I asked Rodolfo for a tour of the old Hacienda, which he was happy to provide.

I've included some photos to entice anyone interested:

The palm grove you pass through. Note the shapes of the trunks.


Another view of the area


One of the rocky points that protects Playa San Pedrito.


The beach itself


The stream


Surf's Up! Note the smiles, if you can.


What remains of the old kiosk


The old hacienda


Inside the brick room on the second floor
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David K
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[*] posted on 6-29-2011 at 04:07 PM


Great Baja POI (point of interest) report, Steve!!! Looks like Hawaii!


Here is the airport page for San Pedrito from Arnold Senterfitt's 17th edition of Airports of Baja California (1987)... The runway is X'd which means closed when the book went to press. The details and photo given are about the same as found in his 1969 edition, when it was open.






Now, back 20 more years to 1967 and Senterfitt's 4th Edition Airports of Baja book:





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[*] posted on 6-29-2011 at 07:24 PM


Great photos in the article, David. You can see the main house in background, as you've no doubt noticed.

[Edited on 6-30-2011 by Bajatripper]
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[*] posted on 6-29-2011 at 07:50 PM


what happened to the sugar cane plantation ? who owned the hacienda ...what a shame to let it just stand there abandoned ....




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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 06:04 AM


The place was owned by the son of former Mexican president Abelardo Rodriguez and is still owned by his heirs. There have been groups with options to purchase the property but so far no one has been able to finance the the development of it. He also developed Las Cruces near La Paz.

[Edited on 6-30-2011 by monoloco]
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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 06:53 AM


And...if you look just north of San Pedrito there is a little cove (Algodones by some) which has on the north side the remains of a pier for shipping sugar cane. A well built road runs from behind the "fish packing plant" S of Todos Santos up the hill and down to the pier. The "fish packing plant" is interesting because it was constructed out of concrete using palo de arco (sticks) instead of rebar. Of course the roof has caved in. The little cove is well protected and has great diving jumping off the pier, using the surge to get back on land. Directly across the cove is a nice blow hole. One can swim around Pt. Lobos (seals) to the panga landing near Todos Santos which offers good diving with the lobos. East of the "Hacienda" at San Pedrito among the weeds and brush you will encounter cement irrigation canals left over from the old sugar cane days. The fish in the fresh water lagoon (throw nets) could not be identified by a friend who has a graduate degree in ichthyology. This very safe beach is one of the prettiest in Baja but there are rumors of impending commercial development, hope not.
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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 07:02 AM


Great post and wonderful place. We've seen horses running on the beach there. It's beautiful, but be very careful w/what you leave in your car as there have been many thefts.



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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 07:35 AM


Is this the beach where the turtles come?
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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 08:14 AM
SAN PEDRITO


This is a beautiful place, and there is a large development planned for it - just a question of current markets/financing.

http://www.maravillabaja.com/main.htm
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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 11:24 AM


The property was originally developed by the Dominguez family before it was acquired by the ex-president's family (my source says it was Abelardo Sr. himself who acquired it). The Dominguezs' are one of the oldest "Old Money" families in Todos Santos. They were known for operating a "tienda de raya" in town (still pointed out to visitors), in which their employees were paid in merchandize instead of cash.
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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 03:57 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Bajatripper
The property was originally developed by the Dominguez family before it was acquired by the ex-president's family (my source says it was Abelardo Sr. himself who acquired it). The Dominguezs' are one of the oldest "Old Money" families in Todos Santos. They were known for operating a "tienda de raya" in town (still pointed out to visitors), in which their employees were paid in merchandize instead of cash.
You could be right about Abelardo Sr. His grand daughter and great grandson still live in Todos Santos.
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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 03:59 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by wilderone
Is this the beach where the turtles come?
The turtles lay their eggs on all the sandy beaches of the Cape region.
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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 04:58 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Jack Swords
And...if you look just north of San Pedrito there is a little cove (Algodones by some) which has on the north side the remains of a pier for shipping sugar cane. A well built road runs from behind the "fish packing plant" S of Todos Santos up the hill and down to the pier. The "fish packing plant" is interesting because it was constructed out of concrete using palo de arco (sticks) instead of rebar. Of course the roof has caved in.


Here are some photos of the fish packing plant with the palo de arco roof re-enforcement that Jack Swords mentioned. If you look closely at the second and third photos, you can see the "rebar" hanging down.









[Edited on 7-1-2011 by Bajatripper]
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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 05:01 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by dtutko1
Great post and wonderful place. We've seen horses running on the beach there. It's beautiful, but be very careful w/what you leave in your car as there have been many thefts.


Me, not being a horse person, managed to get bit by one of them. They're pretty, but treacherous, don't turn your back on them. And I heard the same thing about the auto breakins, from Rodolfo the caretaker.
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[*] posted on 6-30-2011 at 05:21 PM


The horses will crunch the turtle eggs with ease... they, and human feet penetrate into soft sand with ease... Only wide floatation tires that stay on top of the sand are turtle egg friendly!



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