BajaNomad

Planning a few weeks in Baja

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WideAngleWandering - 5-3-2012 at 02:54 PM

Howdy nomads,

I'm planning to spend a few weeks in Baja sometime in May (as soon as I finish getting the truck together). Start and end dates aren't fixed.

I've been reading tons of information about how to get to various places but not a whole lot of info on how to choose which places to aim for.

I'm all about exploring but I'd like to have a few spots in mind.



I figure I'll head for San Felipe and then Gonzaga Bay but that's as much detail as I have in my head thus far. Where should I wander off to?

rts551 - 5-3-2012 at 04:45 PM

any of the area between San Felipe and Gozaga will be to your liking except it is starting to get warm by May. Then I would head for Vizcaino, fillup, and head for the Pacific for a couple of days. Take the coast route south from Asuncion to Abreojos. from there you can head back over to the gulf at Santa Roslia.Kinda best of both worlds this way since you have a little time/

DENNIS - 5-3-2012 at 04:47 PM

Try not to get too isolated, WAW. It's a bad idea these days....especially if you're alone.
I hate mentioning this to folks, but it's a fact to be reckoned with.

David K - 5-3-2012 at 04:49 PM

Bahia de los Angeles and on the way Calamajue Tinaja de Yubay Desengano San Borja oh yah lots of sites.

chuckie - 5-3-2012 at 04:54 PM

YUP!:tumble:

sancho - 5-3-2012 at 04:57 PM

If you haven't looked at them, there are other forum
sections here, Trip Reports, Camping, Fishing, etc.

Marc - 5-3-2012 at 05:19 PM

WideAngle, you travel the way I do. Just head south with the AAA map and have fun. Everything will be an adventure. Don't drive at night and don't get to isolated. It will be hot so don't forget you can always take a break or two on the Pacific side. Don't forget tarps for the wind.

Santispac Beach (Mulege) Feb 2012


[Edited on 5-4-2012 by Marc]

shari - 5-3-2012 at 05:19 PM

For photography and exploring I would not miss Comondu area...enter from Insurgentes..turn left and go towards san juanico...turn up at Ejido Francisco Villa...un friggin believeable up there....our camp has a VW van parked there right now and lots of room for tents...nice climate if the gulf side gets too hot...stop in for a beer!

WideAngleWandering - 5-3-2012 at 05:28 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by DENNIS
Try not to get too isolated, WAW. It's a bad idea these days....especially if you're alone.
I hate mentioning this to folks, but it's a fact to be reckoned with.


I hear you, and I know this is always a risk, but I must admit I'm having trouble gauging the danger in Baja.

I know some of you do it regularly and survive. What's the secret? Do you also play Russian roulette in your free time? :)

David K - 5-3-2012 at 05:38 PM

There is more danger in any US city every day, than there is a year of camping in Baja... Bad stuff happens, so better that it happen while you are LIVING the LIFE, than staying 'safe' and locked up in your own home... yes?

Please feel free to see many photos of many sites in my web page http://VivaBaja.com my special interest is the peninsula history, I have a Spanish Missions page with photos at the 27 Spanish missions and many of their visitas (sub-mission visiting stations): http://vivabaja.com/bajamissions

To get a feel for what's there (at many interesting sites in Baja - norte): See http://vivabaja.com/tours click on a site, grouped around many destination towns.

We visited many mission sites last trip to Baja CA Sur: http://vivabaja.com/709 even discovered one that was reported destroyed by road builders.... not!

By all means, ask away!



[Edited on 5-4-2012 by David K]

Maderita - 5-4-2012 at 12:23 AM

The first leg of your trip, Mexicali to San Felipe, is 130 miles of flat desert, and a hot, boring drive, IMHO. Mid- late May temps are likely 90 - 110F. Seems like a waste when the drive south on dirt roads through the Sierra de Juárez would be scenic. Usually mild May temperatures at those elevations (4,000' to 5,000'). Start at La Rumorosa at the top of the grade on Hwy 2. Turn south on dirt roads toward the Parque Nacional / Laguna Hanson. A truck or SUV is recommended, but 4WD not needed in May. There should be some water remaining in the shallow lake. Nice wilderness camping and hiking at Canyon Tajo (half-way to Laguna Hanson). Mid-week, the camping should be quiet at the main area (west side) of the lake. Or, drive around to the east side of the lake for privacy. Continue south to Hwy 3 at Ojos Negros. From there, Drive southeast to Hwy 5 and south to San Felipe. Or, drive west to Ensenada and south on Hwy 1 on the Pacific Coast, perhaps camping near Erenidira or San Antonio del Mar on the way to San Quintin.

How much time do you have? A side trip off Hwy 3 (at Valle Trinidad) to Mike's Sky Ranch in the Sierra San Pedro Mártir and on to the Observatory would be incomparable to anything else in Baja. Nice camping up high on the plateau, but be prepared for a chilly night. Plan on an extra two or three days should you venture to the observatory. Search the forum for more info on any of these places.

BajaBlanca - 5-4-2012 at 05:24 AM

right now, the Pacific part of Baja is on the cool side and we are having strong winds in the afternoons .... but the mornings have been exquisitely beautiful.

I think you will enjoy the bahia concepcion beaches further south from Mulege. comparable to any famous beach around the world. and very few people staying there this time of year.

wilderone - 5-4-2012 at 07:27 AM

"I'd like to photograph pristine landscapes and architecture / ruins / missions"

Be sure to go to Mision San Borja. Ask one of caretakers there to take you to the pictographs. Go to San Borja the back way from Bahia de los Angeles. You'll see plenty of pristine desert landscape en route. If you're interested in birding, the birds are great at San Borja due to their water cachments there - warm pools, which flow into a reservoir, which they use to water their garden. Great sunsets there too.

shari - 5-4-2012 at 08:31 AM

We feel very very safe in this area of central pacific baja from Bahia Tortugas to Pta.Abreojos because of all the security patrols that the fishing cooperativas do. They patrol all the beach areas a few times a day and get a bead on any strange vehicles in the area...which discourages the bad guys. Also if you break down or have any kind of emergency, they will come along and have radios and are very helpful....so remote camping is safe here...plus the villages are small and everyone knows everyone so crime is much less prevalent...because somebody is always watching and caring...family looks after family and the old baja spirit is present.

David K - 5-4-2012 at 08:32 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by wilderone
"I'd like to photograph pristine landscapes and architecture / ruins / missions"

Be sure to go to Mision San Borja. Ask one of caretakers there to take you to the pictographs. Go to San Borja the back way from Bahia de los Angeles. You'll see plenty of pristine desert landscape en route. If you're interested in birding, the birds are great at San Borja due to their water cachments there - warm pools, which flow into a reservoir, which they use to water their garden. Great sunsets there too.


YES... exactly why I suggested San Borja... and just 2 miles on the San Borja road (from the L.A. Bay paved road) turn left for the beautiful 7 mile drive to Montevideo painted cliffs. You pass through beautiful desert gardens and drive right up to the rock art sites...






Boojum trees are fun!

Some samples of Montevideo:











Skipjack Joe - 5-4-2012 at 08:35 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
Quote:
Originally posted by DENNIS
Try not to get too isolated, WAW. It's a bad idea these days....especially if you're alone.
I hate mentioning this to folks, but it's a fact to be reckoned with.


I hear you, and I know this is always a risk, but I must admit I'm having trouble gauging the danger in Baja.

I know some of you do it regularly and survive. What's the secret? Do you also play Russian roulette in your free time? :)


I feel that any danger if it exists comes when you offroad camp close to hwy 1 or it's settlements. I still do it but always south of El Rosario in hilly areas where I'm out of sight from the hwy. But if you're somewhere off the beaten track like San Borja you've got zero chance of being acosted.

Regarding offroad places to go:

You might try the Bay of LA to El Arco to Hwy 1 loop. On the way you will pass Las Animas which is a beautiful piece of shallow aquamarine water, San Rafael which has good snorkeling, San Francisquito which is a beautiful little bay, and the finest grove of cardon cactus in all of baja just before you get to El Arco. Lots of opportunity to beach camp with nobody around. Lots of washboard road. Bring everything with you (water).

But there are tons of places. It's a choice of heat vs wind. I prefer the heat until it's intolerable then cross the peninsula. I can't take the wind for more than 4 or 5 days. I can still remember taking one of those solar bag showers at San Roque .... brrrrrrrr. That was July.

Udo - 5-4-2012 at 08:50 AM

I concur with Shari on this area.
Hard to believe that such a place exists in Baja...but then there Bahia Asunción!
Quote:
Originally posted by shari
For photography and exploring I would not miss Comondu area...enter from Insurgentes..turn left and go towards san juanico...turn up at Ejido Francisco Villa...un friggin believeable up there....our camp has a VW van parked there right now and lots of room for tents...nice climate if the gulf side gets too hot...stop in for a beer!

WideAngleWandering - 5-4-2012 at 01:22 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Maderita
The first leg of your trip, Mexicali to San Felipe, is 130 miles of flat desert, and a hot, boring drive, IMHO. Mid- late May temps are likely 90 - 110F.

I know it - this departure delay is really frustrating. I was planning to do this back in February.
Quote:
How much time do you have?

As much as I want but for planning purposes I'm setting aside ~3 weeks for Baja. I'd like to have some time on the mainland too.
Quote:
A side trip off Hwy 3 (at Valle Trinidad) to Mike's Sky Ranch in the Sierra San Pedro Mártir and on to the Observatory would be incomparable to anything else in Baja.

You make a compelling case. I'm sold.

I do like observatories:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wideanglewandering/6908024377/

Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm trying to absorb all this now.

WideAngleWandering - 5-4-2012 at 03:30 PM

i started putting together a google map to visualize the suggestions.

thanks again.

http://g.co/maps/9qsen
Quote:
Originally posted by shari
For photography and exploring I would not miss Comondu area...enter from Insurgentes..turn left and go towards san juanico...turn up at Ejido Francisco Villa...un friggin believeable up there....our camp has a VW van parked there right now and lots of room for tents...nice climate if the gulf side gets too hot...stop in for a beer!


This sounds great. I'm not sure I found it on the map but I have made a note of it.
Quote:
Be sure to go to Mision San Borja.

sold
Quote:
You might try the Bay of LA to El Arco to Hwy 1 loop.

Intrigued but not sure I understand the route. Google does a chit job of labeling road names but it looks like highway 18 south from LA to San Rafael and on to El Arco?

David K - 5-4-2012 at 05:54 PM

It's no highway... but the road between Mex. 1 and El Arco was paved once and called Mex. #18.

Mision San Borja is 22 miles south of the highway into L.A. Bay and 22 miles east from the village of Rosarito (south of Punta Prieta)... sometimes refered to as Nuevo Rosarito to seperate it from the city near Tijuana, on the beach! Pretty much in the center of Baja.

SEE THIS BLOG PAGE (GREAT PHOTOS): http://www.bajabus.org/day-2-bahia-de-los-angeles-to-mission...

Thanks La Paz Gringo!

[Edited on 5-5-2012 by David K]

Central Baja, east and west coasts

Mulegena - 5-4-2012 at 07:59 PM

You Got Options:

Do go and stay at Shari's campground in Bahia Asuncion and poke around there a few days; drive south on the coast route and visit Blanca in La Bocana; continue south on the salt flats to Abreojos and cut back to Hwy. 1 just north of San Ignacio.

Do go in to San Ignacio, one of the most beautiful little towns anywhere.

Do plan to snorkel and get sunburned on the beaches just south of Mulege. It'll be hot when you're here, but the good part is the Sea of Cortez is calm and warm in summer. Like a string of pearls, each beach is as gorgeous as the next and all, even the furthest away, is only a half-hour of town. You'll find the beaches fairly unpopulated this time of year, so choose a beach with someone else on it, just because. You can also come back into town and camp on grass under mango and banana trees at Huerta Don Chano, overlooking the river.

From Mulege you can head south and go up into the mountains to San Isidro and Los Comondus, as Shari suggested.

In the mountains up out of Loreto is San Javier, a jewel of a little town.

WideAngleWandering - 5-4-2012 at 08:57 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
It's no highway... but the road between Mex. 1 and El Arco was paved once and called Mex. #18.

Got it - I found an excellent thread on the subject: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=56898&pag...
Quote:

Do plan to snorkel and get sunburned on the beaches just south of Mulege.

Sounds great. Just follow random dirt roads from Hwy 1 off to the coast?

Updated the map.

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=201257090310765426703.00...

Mulegena - 5-4-2012 at 09:39 PM

Quote:
Quote:

Do plan to snorkel and get sunburned on the beaches just south of Mulege.

Sounds great. Just follow random dirt roads from Hwy 1 off to the coast?

Updated the map.

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=201257090310765426703.00...

It'll be clear as the gorgeous turquoise sea when you're here. The beaches are all easily accessed and most visible from Mex. 1. Just keep your rig on the road as you're coming into some major eye candy.

From Playa Santispac just 10 minutes south of Mulege to Playa Buenaventura a half-hour away, plan on sampling each beach as each has its own unique characteristic.

Speaking of sampling, are you going to stop at a winery or three while you're up north? If you're crossing into Baja in Tecate you'll go right through La Ruta de Vino on your way to Ensenada.

WideAngleWandering - 5-5-2012 at 09:07 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Mulegena
Speaking of sampling, are you going to stop at a winery or three while you're up north? If you're crossing into Baja in Tecate you'll go right through La Ruta de Vino on your way to Ensenada.

I'm not sure but I think I'll be heading from Mexicali west, but turning south around La Rumarosa so I won't make it all the way to Tecate.

I'm not a wine aficionado but I have no problem drinking it :)

woody with a view - 5-5-2012 at 09:26 PM

the thing about camping in the boonies is that the bad guys don't think it'll be worth their time to go 10-60 miles off the hiway to see if there are any lone gringos with a pocket full of $'s. the people you'll meet out there are the salt of the earth.

but buy a machete just for the value of a fine tool by your side......

Skipjack Joe - 5-5-2012 at 11:45 PM

Other 4wd trips of interest on the cortez:

1. San Basilio
2. Agua Verde
3. Coastal road south of La Ribera (snorkel pulmo coral reef)
4. Coastal road north of El Barril

wilderone - 5-6-2012 at 07:45 AM

Also, if you intend to go to the mainland, be sure you have all the required paperwork for the Temporary Import Permit (visa, title, registration, credit card - and 3 copies of each).

David K - 5-6-2012 at 11:01 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by Skipjack Joe
Other 4wd trips of interest on the cortez:

1. San Basilio
2. Agua Verde
3. Coastal road south of La Ribera (snorkel pulmo coral reef)
4. Coastal road north of El Barril


OR even SOUTH of El Barril!: http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=56817

WideAngleWandering - 7-31-2012 at 01:00 AM

Hola nomads,

Just bumping my thread as I pushed off my departure a bit. I'm now planning on hitting the road this week.

Anything else you'd recommend given the new departure date? Weather? Other happenings?

just GO!!!

captkw - 7-31-2012 at 05:25 AM

wilderone - 7-31-2012 at 07:33 AM

Wine Festival activities this week in Valle Guadalupe and Ensenada. Also bring all water toys - floats, snorkle fishing gear, water shoes, wide brim hat, simple shade structure or umbrella to attach to chair.

willyAirstream - 7-31-2012 at 07:54 AM

It is now hotter, mangoes are ripe and Dorado are in close. Bahia Conception beaches are near full, Mulege has traffic jams and it is even hotter than when i started writing this :-D
Surf competition in Asuncion starts Aug 10 or 11th, a week of fun events over there. Shari will post more.
Activity in mornings, evenings, take siestas and enjoy.
Btw, great pics on your blog.

BajaBlanca - 7-31-2012 at 08:20 AM

defintely stop by and visit us on the Pacific !! once here you can make some day trips that are very pretty to photograph

punta abreojos
campo rene
the cave painting at cueva del raton

and down south like Mulegena suggested - Santispac is gor ge ous.

Have a good and safe trip. Maybe see you soon !

WideAngleWandering - 7-31-2012 at 12:18 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by captkw
just GO!!!

Seriously. This has become my mantra after I went a little bit mad outfitting the truck. Today I should finish the rock sliders and the solar panel mounts. Then I can go.
Quote:
willyAirstream
Btw, great pics on your blog.

Thank you kindly. I'll take that as an opening for a bit more self-promotion.

If you're interested, you can see all the photos from this last year on Flickr:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wideanglewandering/collections/...

I'll start a new collection for the stuff I shoot south of the border.
Quote:
bajablanca
Maybe see you soon !

Heck yeah. Thanks for the invite. I'll look you up as I get closer.

[Edited on 2012-7-31 by WideAngleWandering]

[Edited on 2012-7-31 by WideAngleWandering]

Cypress - 7-31-2012 at 12:37 PM

Have gone and been there!;D Good country, good people, good food, good drink and an experience you won't regret.;D

805gregg - 8-5-2012 at 06:40 PM

40 years ago it was pristine
30 years ago it was beautiful
20 years ago it was fun
10 years ago it was becomming used
5 years ago it was ruined
you should have been there 40 years ago.

WideAngleWandering - 8-13-2012 at 05:06 PM

40 years ago? Ahhh, I wish. My dad used to tell me the same thing about being a teenager in the sixties :)

So now that I'm here, I'm looking at the weather on baja insider: http://www.bajainsider.com/weather/baja-weather108.htm

It looks to me like there will continue to be rain and nastiness in the Sierras so I'm probably not going to backtrack from San Felipe to the national observatory.

Good reasoning?

No activity on doppler today in Baja Norte

thebajarunner - 8-13-2012 at 05:23 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
40 years ago? Ahhh, I wish. My dad used to tell me the same thing about being a teenager in the sixties :)

So now that I'm here, I'm looking at the weather on baja insider: http://www.bajainsider.com/weather/baja-weather108.htm

It looks to me like there will continue to be rain and nastiness in the Sierras so I'm probably not going to backtrack from San Felipe to the national observatory.

Good reasoning?


Yesterday there was a bunch of bright stuff all across the area where you were,
Today the doppler is quiet, and I say head for the Parque Nacional and the Observatory,
Just go for it!!
It only rains for an hour, if at all
very refreshing
just keep your stuff covered at 4 p.m.

WideAngleWandering - 8-13-2012 at 05:40 PM

It'll be tomorrow at the earliest - I could make a morning run up and then come back down in a few days to continue down to Gonzaga Bay.

thebajarunner - 8-13-2012 at 07:33 PM

On the way up (or down) be sure to stop at Meling Ranch and say hello.
Also, try to be there during meal time
the meals are really excellent!!
you can also rent a room at fairly low cost, we camped out in the grass area in late March but the early morning dew was drenching on all of our gear.

WideAngleWandering - 8-13-2012 at 09:41 PM

Cool deal but who would I be saying hello to?

I drive by a lot of ranchos - I'm never sure if they are just working ranches or the kind of places that host visitors. If I am cruising by and hungry I'll definitely stop in.

thebajarunner - 8-13-2012 at 09:43 PM

Meling is a well known working ranch and also a guest ranch.
Trust me, just stop in and introduce yourself and tell them you are a Nomad.
They run cattle on about a gazillion acres, maybe more.

And, it is about half way up the hill- you cannot miss it,
and you will be happy you stopped.

David K - 8-13-2012 at 11:34 PM

Did you look at my photos since I have been back, two weeks ago? There could be some places you would like to see... In the Baja Trip Reports form "15 Days in Baja..."

QUETZALCOATL - 8-14-2012 at 05:00 AM

Doors locked-check,missing out on Baja check.

queztel????

captkw - 8-14-2012 at 05:45 AM

umm ......................WHAT???? my folks have not locked the doors on our house ever!!!! east cape 30 +yrs...K&T:cool:

WideAngleWandering - 8-14-2012 at 12:37 PM

I'm confuzzled.

David K - 8-14-2012 at 10:36 PM

Please update us with your location when you check in here! Have a great trip...

David

WideAngleWandering - 8-16-2012 at 01:34 PM

I've had an interesting few days for sure. I'll write more in a bit but the summary is:

* got lost in the sierras - never found that observatory
* thrashed my steering pretty good while trying to make my way out
* crawled out and camped at a rancho with a couple of helpful friendly rooster ranchers
* drove muy despacio to Ensenada. Checked in at the Hotel Santo Tomas while I try to figure out how to diagnose and acquire parts for Betsy (she was named by the previous owner - it's stenciled into the seat cover so the name sticks for now).

I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to gets parts from the states for this one. Ug.

Sorry to hear about your problems.

thebajarunner - 8-16-2012 at 02:10 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
I've had an interesting few days for sure. I'll write more in a bit but the summary is:

* got lost in the sierras - never found that observatory
* thrashed my steering pretty good while trying to make my way out
* crawled out and camped at a rancho with a couple of helpful friendly rooster ranchers
* drove muy despacio to Ensenada. Checked in at the Hotel Santo Tomas while I try to figure out how to diagnose and acquire parts for Betsy (she was named by the previous owner - it's stenciled into the seat cover so the name sticks for now).

I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to gets parts from the states for this one. Ug.


However, you have established a "Baja First"
No one has ever previously failed to find the observatory.
Are you sure you were in the mountains?

Make a parts list and post it on Nomad
someone may be coming your way and haul them down,
otherwise the bus to TJ is quick, cheap and comfortable
so you have that option.

(Are you sure you were on the right road? It goes straight to the sky station.... oh well, good try)

BajaBlanca - 8-16-2012 at 02:12 PM

what a shame ..... hopefully you get Betsy up and running rapido so you can continue your journey .... hey, it is all an adventure !

WideAngleWandering - 8-16-2012 at 02:13 PM

I'm really confused about that myself but I'll post up details later so y'all can straighten me out.

As for the truck, I'm not sure what I need yet but I figure worst case I can get parts sent to a friend in San Diego and bus it like ya said.

I had a good time at the rooster ranch though :)

David K - 8-16-2012 at 03:02 PM

Okay, place names help a lot... From what I recall reading, you entered at Mexicali, but then continued west along the border to La Rumorosa. Then you headed south to Laguna Hanson then on southeast to San Felipe...

So, somehow you went back northwest on Hwy. 3(?) to maybe San Matias(?) then south to Mike's Sky Rancho(?) trying to get to the observatory?

It is a tough 4WD road from Mike's south to the observatory highway... and yes, it is a paved highway all the way to 9,280' that starts on Hwy. 1, south of Ensenada (between Colonet and Camalu). So, to get to the observatory there is only one way once you are near the Meling Guest Ranch (which is just east of where the 4WD Mike's Sky Rancho road meets the observatory road, also is the road for El Coyote guest ranch).

Please fill us in on just where you entered the sierra coming from San Felipe, and if you didn't get to Mike's Sky Rancho (20 miles from Hwy. 3), then you would have dead ended in a rancher's front yard.

I hope you get the truck fixed... In Baja, you do want to have as few mechanical issues as possible... but some of us can help IF we know where you are or where you are going next!









[Edited on 8-16-2012 by David K]

WideAngleWandering - 8-16-2012 at 03:21 PM

Hi David,

You're correct - I came down Mexicali, took MX-2 to La Rumorosa, south to Laguna Hanson but instead of continuing on to the observatory right away I fled the thunderstorms and went to the coast.

I then backtracked up MX-3 and turned south at the sign for Mike's Sky Ranch. I camped there for the night (ug, that was not a great choice) and got directions from them about getting to the observatory road.

They said the road would be difficult at first, with loose rocks, but then it gets better. There would be Y in the road with the left going to the observatory and the right a cattle gate to Rancho Coyote.

I followed it for about two hours. I saw a sign for Coyote (8 miles) and then another one further on near some trees and greenery. I never saw the cattle gate.

A bit further down the road ended at a creek bed. It was completely washed out with sharp walls. I scouted the area a bit and found a steep dirt descent down to the creekbed (about a 10' ramp) but the creek bed was impassable due to large rocks. On the other side it appeared the road continued but it was washed out and only wide enough for a motorcycle.

At this point I decided to backtrack and look for another route. It was while crawling out that I broke poor Betsy's steering.

Back at Rancho Mike Sky I talked to them some more and they said the road should be passable because cars & trucks go back there at least once a week and don't come back. Perhaps I missed the gate to Coyote and through there is another way back onto the road south to the observatory.

They described two more options for me - one going east from Mike's Sky Ranch to Rancho Concepción (they charge $8 to cross their ranch) and another going north to the sand road by the Mike's Sky Ranch sign, following that NE to Valle Trinidad and then back south to the observatory road.

I opted for the Valle Trinidad route but aborted due to mechanical issues. Instead I hung out with Oscar and Jose at Rancho Jose (with all the beer cans stuck to the cactus plants).

Now I'm in Ensenada. Once I fix the truck (no idea what that is going to take yet) I'm going back down MX-1 to the observatory road because there is no way I'm not driving up there after all this trouble :)

WideAngleWandering - 8-16-2012 at 03:24 PM

Oh and where did you get those maps?

I have asked at every place I could think of and the best I have scored is a Guía Roja.

David K - 8-16-2012 at 04:24 PM

Okay, that is what I figured... although I didn't guess you went passed Mike's and got lost. Do you see the first map with my mileages next to one route? Well, that is the way we went to Mike's from the observatory road to Hwy. 3, back in 2005: The trip was from San Quintin to San Felipe: http://vivabaja.com/905 there is a road log in that trip report page, too.

The maps are from:
The Baja California Almanac (2003 edition).
Camping and Climbing in Baja (1972 edition)
Auto Club of Southern California (2007 edition)

Oh, and Rancho Concepcion is mow the Baja Dark Skies Inn and Baja Nomad member 'AstroBaja' (Mike). There is no charge, but you need to ask him to unlock the gate for you... too late and you didn't find it... http://www.bajadarkskies.com/index.html

[Edited on 8-16-2012 by David K]

WideAngleWandering - 8-16-2012 at 04:32 PM

I did see your road log but my odometer is metric and not entirely accurate due to tire sizes & other mods.

The thing I don't understand is, was the road recently damaged or did I completely miss a turn-off somewhere? Does one have to go through the mystery cattle gate and on to rancho coyote? The map says otherwise.

To diagnose my issue I think I'm going to need to pull the tie rods off the wheels and possibly the pitman arm. I don't have the tools for the tie rods. I'm going to start asking around for a mechanic but if anyone knows of a good one I'd love a suggestion. Vehicle is an Toyota '84 Landcruiser (never sold in Mexico).

David K - 8-16-2012 at 04:42 PM

Well, El Coyote is just 1/4 mile off the route we took... and you could have used our route or the slightly longer road right into El Coyote. I photographed a sign pointing that route out. That is the El Corral Falso route, 5.1 miles from Mike's.



Two roads go east to Los Encinos (the old Mike's airport) and on to Baja Dark Skies Inn (Concepcion)... not shown, but where the road crosses the creek, south of 'San Pedro (ab)'. That road continues south to the observatory road... where the fire was burning in AstroBaja's post... by El Socorro.

WideAngleWandering - 8-16-2012 at 05:55 PM

I can't make heads of tails of this but Betsy seems to have auto-repaired herself. Perhaps I have redeemed myself in the eyes of the Pai Pai and they lifted their curse.

Seriously, I have no idea. Not three hours ago I was struggling to maneuver around town and now it's all good. Rock stuck in the steering column? Who knows.

So to take this back to planning - any recommendations for a night in Ensenada? :)

WideAngleWandering - 8-16-2012 at 10:36 PM

Here is a google map showing where I stopped and turned back. I made this by exporting the GPX file from my Garmin via Basecamp, importing into Google Earth, exporting to KML and importing to Google Maps. GPS datums unknown.

https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=201257090310765426703.0...

WideAngleWandering - 8-17-2012 at 01:47 AM

here is the last Rancho Coyote sign that I saw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/i7ZqI2uuA5D9sJaq9eOCMt...

A short while later (sorry - didn't track the miles - maybe 20 mins or so) the road ended in this creek bed:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Hl4aOUl4AlARCYKLRWayBt...

The photo doesn't make this clear but there's no way down from here and on the other side the road is too narrow anyway:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IqYvm1XXtU9PCcp_l4rIHN...

Here's the path down to the creek bed - it's far too steep for my vehicle - I'd have dragged the rear end all the way down, not to mention those big rocks in the way:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/HiumYcGcpCmkK3tUgrJtMd...

[Edited on 2012-8-17 by WideAngleWandering]

woody with a view - 8-17-2012 at 05:35 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
I can't make heads of tails of this but Betsy seems to have auto-repaired herself. Perhaps I have redeemed myself in the eyes of the Pai Pai and they lifted their curse.

Seriously, I have no idea. Not three hours ago I was struggling to maneuver around town and now it's all good. Rock stuck in the steering column? Who knows.

So to take this back to planning - any recommendations for a night in Ensenada? :)


spend $10 and have a guy get under there and look at everything. your symptoms don't just happen and then go away. you don't want to have steering problems at 55 mph out along the desert hiway.

thebajarunner - 8-17-2012 at 08:34 AM

Quote:
spend $10 and have a guy get under there and look at everything. your symptoms don't just happen and then go away. you don't want to have steering problems at 55 mph out along the desert hiway.


Great advice Woody
And it is just not the 55 mph events that worry me,
I have been going down Baja hills at 5 mph where a steering loss would have had me singing in the AngelChoir sooner than I expected.

WideAngleWandering - 8-17-2012 at 09:38 AM

I poked around myself and also showed it to a local mechanic. It's tough to diagnose because it is intermittent.

I talked to some mechanics back in the states and they think it is likely I have something floating around in the steering box - a bit of metal or something. The smart thing is to replace it.

I believe I have found a good unit in Stockton, CA. They have offered to ship it to me at a restaurant, hotel or shop in Baja. I'm not sure how that would work with customs and so forth but they are confident they can get it to me.

Do you think that would be better than going up to San Diego to retrieve it myself?

Next question - I'm in Ensenada. I need to find a mechanic to do the installation for me. The procedure isn't too difficult from what I've read but I want a good mechanic. Lee's helpful thread doesn't list anyone in Ensenada.

WideAngleWandering - 8-18-2012 at 09:33 PM

I'm pretty sure it's a busted axle - good news - they used this axle on Toyota pickups in Mexico so I should be able to get it fixed w/o a bus trip to Tijuana & a parts hand-off at the border.

In the meantime, the fish tacos and tkt are keeping me busy. Next on the agenda, acquire a local SIM so I can call BajaDock's mechanic ...

For what it's worth, the first mechanic I showed it to completely misdiagnosed the problem.

WideAngleWandering - 8-20-2012 at 03:39 PM

She's now in the hands of Monzie Fernandez, bajadock's recommended mechanic. I'm hoping for a diagnosis later tonight.

[Edited on 2012-8-20 by WideAngleWandering]

BajaBlanca - 8-20-2012 at 03:59 PM

good luck ! a reference is always a good idea, smart to ask for one. this site can really be helpful whether the issue at hand be a mechanic or hotel or restaurant. people will tell it like it is !

TMW - 8-20-2012 at 04:01 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
here is the last Rancho Coyote sign that I saw:

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/i7ZqI2uuA5D9sJaq9eOCMt...


The gate is about about half mile past this sign on the right.

WideAngleWandering - 8-20-2012 at 06:42 PM

I think I just got a diagnosis of "mal manejando" leading to a completely destroyed left front axle shaft. Ah well, live and learn. Hopefully parts will be available tomorrow and I'll be back on the road by Wed/Thurs.

TW - gracias. I'll keep that in mind for attempt #2.

[Edited on 2012-8-22 by WideAngleWandering]

WideAngleWandering - 8-21-2012 at 05:03 PM

aye, que mal suerte. The axle housing is cracked and not available down here.

The search for parts is back on. If anybody knows of an axle housing (or good complete axle) for a 60 series landcruiser I happen to be looking for one.

Ateo - 8-21-2012 at 06:05 PM

Good luck man. I was stranded for a week in San Vicente once with a blown head gasket. It ended up being one of my best weeks in Baja -- all time. Got invited to parties, met people, ate and drank.

Enjoy!

David K - 8-21-2012 at 06:56 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Ateo
Good luck man. I was stranded for a week in San Vicente once with a blown head gasket. It ended up being one of my best weeks in Baja -- all time. Got invited to parties, met people, ate and drank.

Enjoy!


Attitude is everything in Mexico and ateo has the right attitude!

WideAngleWandering - 8-23-2012 at 03:54 PM

It wasn't the housing after all (whew) just a birfield joint. Trouble is ... the parts were shipped to me via US Mail (to a hotel in Ensenada where I've been staying).

I'm quite worried there will be a handoff to the Mexican postal service and those parts will not arrive in any sort of predictable fashion.

I made a plea for DHL but the parts are already away ... how likely is it that they'll get here and how long will it take?

J.P. - 8-23-2012 at 04:02 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
I've had an interesting few days for sure. I'll write more in a bit but the summary is:

* got lost in the sierras - never found that observatory
* thrashed my steering pretty good while trying to make my way out
* crawled out and camped at a rancho with a couple of helpful friendly rooster ranchers
* drove muy despacio to Ensenada. Checked in at the Hotel Santo Tomas while I try to figure out how to diagnose and acquire parts for Betsy (she was named by the previous owner - it's stenciled into the seat cover so the name sticks for now).

I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to gets parts from the states for this one. Ug.



If you are in Ensenada check out the YOUNKE PLACES just like in the US they all are on a HOT LINE and will find what you are looking for Muy PRONTO.

David K - 8-23-2012 at 04:05 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
It wasn't the housing after all (whew) just a birfield joint. Trouble is ... the parts were shipped to me via US Mail (to a hotel in Ensenada where I've been staying).

I'm quite worried there will be a handoff to the Mexican postal service and those parts will not arrive in any sort of predictable fashion.

I made a plea for DHL but the parts are already away ... how likely is it that they'll get here and how long will it take?


Oh gee... everything I read says all international mail goes to Mexico City first... Hope you like Ensenada, you may be there quite awhile!! :wow:

WideAngleWandering - 8-23-2012 at 04:07 PM

Well, here's the thing - mechanic back in the states sent me two upgraded birfields (less likely to break than stock). At the same time I got a part number for a part off an early 80s Toyota pickup that will work and Monchie found one in Baja.

My worst case scenario is I use the local part, wasted a few hundred bucks on upgrades that will never arrive and I'm back on the road in a few days.

If my concerns about mex correo are unfounded I'll stick around and see if they ever arrive but if that's futile then I'll just cut my losses ... there's too much Baja to explore to be hanging around Ensenada ...

David K - 8-23-2012 at 04:07 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by J.P.
Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
I've had an interesting few days for sure. I'll write more in a bit but the summary is:

* got lost in the sierras - never found that observatory
* thrashed my steering pretty good while trying to make my way out
* crawled out and camped at a rancho with a couple of helpful friendly rooster ranchers
* drove muy despacio to Ensenada. Checked in at the Hotel Santo Tomas while I try to figure out how to diagnose and acquire parts for Betsy (she was named by the previous owner - it's stenciled into the seat cover so the name sticks for now).

I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to gets parts from the states for this one. Ug.



If you are in Ensenada check out the YOUNKE PLACES just like in the US they all are on a HOT LINE and will find what you are looking for Muy PRONTO.


Think you mean to say YONKE (?) or JUNK YARD (English)

David K - 8-23-2012 at 04:09 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
Well, here's the thing - mechanic back in the states sent me two upgraded birfields (less likely to break than stock). At the same time I got a part number for a part off an early 80s Toyota pickup that will work and Monchie found one in Baja.

My worst case scenario is I use the local part, wasted a few hundred bucks on upgrades that will never arrive and I'm back on the road in a few days.

If my concerns about mex correo are unfounded I'll stick around and see if they ever arrive but if that's futile then I'll just cut my losses ... there's too much Baja to explore to be hanging around Ensenada ...

When your truck is running again, from Yonke parts, tell the motel to keep your package and you will pick it upon your way back north (if you will be in Baja over a month).

WideAngleWandering - 8-23-2012 at 04:13 PM

I don't plan on coming back up through Baja. I'll be hitting the mainland next.

Has anyone ever successfully received a package from the states via US Mail? Has anyone ever tried and failed?

Those parts may be a gift to Monchie if they ever arrive.

I'm losing my Baja attitude over this :fire:

I may need to go find some beer and fish tacos to settle me down.

J.P. - 8-23-2012 at 04:19 PM

Quote:
Think you mean to say YONKE (?) or JUNK YARD (English)



David I Know what I meant .

Moncie will get it done, Sooner or Later He is almost as reliable as the mail.:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

David K - 8-23-2012 at 04:22 PM

Quote:
Quote:
Originally posted by J.P.
Think you mean to say YONKE (?) or JUNK YARD (English)



David I Know what I meant .

Moncie will get it done, Sooner or Later He is almost as reliable as the mail.:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:


Okay, you're welcome for the correction as there is no word spelled the way you spelled it... I was trying to help the other person(s) who will never see the word YOUNKE in Mexico, okay?

WideAngleWandering - 8-23-2012 at 04:23 PM

I know trying to predict the future in Mexico is the wrong way to go about it ...

but if I knew they were coming in a few days I'd relocate down to some spot near his shop in Punta Banda and lounge,

whereas if it might be a week or two I'd install the junkyard pickup truck part and go have some fun, swinging back up later to install them,

but if it's futile I'd tell Monchie to use them for himself while I set off for real.

WideAngleWandering - 8-27-2012 at 04:46 PM

Howdy y'all,

So my parts are in Mexico ... somewhere. I'm enjoying all the random speculation on when they might arrive. I've heard everything from "pues, posiblemente mañana" to 3-4 days to maybe in a month.

In case you're interested in watching with bated breath as much as I am, here's the only tracking info I have:
https://tools.usps.com/go/TrackConfirmAction_input?qtc_tLabe...

David K - 8-27-2012 at 06:30 PM

So now Mexican customs has it... if nobody there wants it, maybe it will get shipped to Mexico City and then to Tijuana and then to Ensenada!!! ???

WideAngleWandering - 9-11-2012 at 11:07 PM

Howdy folks,

Google Map: http://goo.gl/maps/K6fBu

My map is a little bit sparse south of Bahia de Concepcion. Any suggested trips or sights I should search out?

I've also been expecting to skip anything south of La Paz, on the theory that Cabo is probably a giant commercial hell-hole of spring breakers and not worth heading down that way for if my last stop in Baja is La Paz. Should I rethink that?
Quote:
Originally posted by shari
For photography and exploring I would not miss Comondu area...enter from Insurgentes..turn left and go towards san juanico...turn up at Ejido Francisco Villa...un friggin believeable up there....our camp has a VW van parked there right now and lots of room for tents...nice climate if the gulf side gets too hot...stop in for a beer!

I'm a bit confused - are you guys in Comondu or Bahia Asuncion?

Also, I marked a waypoint in Insurgentes meaning to come back and look up some more info. if I'm coming down from Bahia de Concepcion, would I follow 53 or 1? Do I head all the way to Insurgentes for Comondu scenery or turn of somewhere further north?

Many thanks all.

David K - 9-12-2012 at 12:56 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
Howdy folks,

Google Map: http://goo.gl/maps/K6fBu

My map is a little bit sparse south of Bahia de Concepcion. Any suggested trips or sights I should search out?

I've also been expecting to skip anything south of La Paz, on the theory that Cabo is probably a giant commercial hell-hole of spring breakers and not worth heading down that way for if my last stop in Baja is La Paz. Should I rethink that?

Quote:
Originally posted by shari
For photography and exploring I would not miss Comondu area...enter from Insurgentes..turn left and go towards san juanico...turn up at Ejido Francisco Villa...un friggin believeable up there....our camp has a VW van parked there right now and lots of room for tents...nice climate if the gulf side gets too hot...stop in for a beer!

I'm a bit confused - are you guys in Comondu or Bahia Asuncion?

Also, I marked a waypoint in Insurgentes meaning to come back and look up some more info. if I'm coming down from Bahia de Concepcion, would I follow 53 or 1? Do I head all the way to Insurgentes for Comondu scenery or turn of somewhere further north?

Many thanks all.


Shari is in Asuncion (do meet her and Juan there), but she had a great visit to San Jose Comondu a year or two ago (look up her trip report).

My dos centavos: Take the road across to La Purisima from just below Bahia Concepcion (it is signed for San Isidro, a town next to La Purisima).

The direct road between San Isidro/La Purisma and Comondu is so badly washed out, even motorbikes have a hard time (see dtbushpilot's trip report with motoged), so take the paved road south from La Purisima to Francisco Villa and then come back up into Comondu (two towns: San Miguel and San Jose, 2 miles apart... a new paved or concrete road was reported nearly done and will make driving more enjoyable.

Now, tired of 'good roads'? Good, take your Toyota from San Jose Comondu to San Javier... do not miss seeing Mission San Javier, it is just a couple miles south of the Comondu to Loreto road. It is paved into Loreto from very near San Javier, now. Pop out to Loreto and continue south (Playa Ligui has a sand beach)... Do not miss the Agua Verde area, and interesting road! You will love it!

A long stretch to La Paz, maybe visit Mission San Luis Gonzaga and the village, at a desert oasis... 10 miles south of Ciudad Constitucion, then east.

Lot's of beauty and history south of La Paz... see my trip report! Last July (link below)... Pitayas should still be available, yum!

[Edited on 9-12-2012 by David K]

BajaBlanca - 9-12-2012 at 03:32 PM

well, one of your questions is whether to go south of la paz or not .... I personally really liked TODOS SANTOS - it is small yet alive - very artsy-craftsy.

where in the states do you live ? someone could pick up your auto part in ensenada, keep it til you return to san diego or wherever you live. just a thought.

David K - 9-12-2012 at 03:36 PM

He is in Ensenada, where he's been waiting for the part and the fix... at least that's what I thought I read? His part arrived, so just need to finish the repairs, I think.

CORRECTION, in his other thread I just read this posted yesterday from San Felipe:


posted on 9-11-2012 at 06:47 PM


Indeed. Lots of interesting characters around Ensenada / Punta Banda. In related news, I finally made it all the way across that trail, this time from the observatory road going north, and am again staged in San Felipe to start heading south. I'll update my trip reports thread after I find some grub.

[Edited on 9-12-2012 by David K]

Mula - 9-12-2012 at 03:51 PM

Check out the San Antonio and El Triunfo area south of LaPaz. Lots of history there and don't forget the Piano Museum El Triunfo and the Cafe there.

And the trail between the two places is supposed to be really neat.

So there are lots of nooks and crannies between LaPaz and Cabo.

Los Arbolitos for snorkeling out of CaboPulmo, some neat ranches on the inland side of the peninsula.

Heard once there were a bunch of Australians biulding mango orchards on the plateau out of Cabo. Would be interesting to know more about.

WideAngleWandering - 9-12-2012 at 04:28 PM

The parts situation is back under control. Currently in San Felipe.

My thinking now is:

mcfez - 9-12-2012 at 06:36 PM

That's absolutely correct David! I have been sleeping in the open for YEARS........ up and down the Sea of Cortez...... without being bother by wackos, drug runners, and Sasquatches!

Many great sports for fishing, hiking, camping and more.........south of the town of Puertecitos which is located 90 kilometers south of San Felipe. My favorite spots is Gonzaga Bay http://tinyurl.com/9jegcjw and Bahia de los Angeles aka BoLA http://tinyurl.com/9okjbrb

The links below is where we stay at...both are fantastic as well as many other camp/motels in BoLA
http://www.villabahia.com/
http://www.campdaggetts.info/

Quote:
Originally posted by David K
There is more danger in any US city every day, than there is a year of camping in Baja... Bad stuff happens, so better that it happen while you are LIVING the LIFE, than staying 'safe' and locked up in your own home... yes?

Please feel free to see many photos of many sites in my web page http://VivaBaja.com my special interest is the peninsula history, I have a Spanish Missions page with photos at the 27 Spanish missions and many of their visitas (sub-mission visiting stations): http://vivabaja.com/bajamissions

To get a feel for what's there (at many interesting sites in Baja - norte): See http://vivabaja.com/tours click on a site, grouped around many destination towns.

We visited many mission sites last trip to Baja CA Sur: http://vivabaja.com/709 even discovered one that was reported destroyed by road builders.... not!

By all means, ask away!



[Edited on 5-4-2012 by David K]

David K - 9-12-2012 at 06:49 PM

If mysteries interest you: at Las Animas, see the dam, walls, palm, Indian sleeping circles, on and at the foot of the hill the road divides around before reaching the bay. Desert Magazine editor Choral Pepper theorized it was an aborted attempt at building the mission of Santa Maria Magdalena (which is shown as 'started' in the 1740's on Jesuit maps and documents.

Interested? Finding a lost mission magazine story: http://www.discoverbaja.com/pdf/fall09.pdf

WideAngleWandering - 9-12-2012 at 09:47 PM

This looks like Shari's report:

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=50474#pid6942...

Looks great - I hope I find my way there coming from the north.

shari - 9-13-2012 at 08:50 AM

we look forward to showing you around the area and hearing more about your adventures and misadventures:lol:

WideAngleWandering - 9-13-2012 at 09:15 AM

Alright - I'll keep my Los Cabos prejudice out of the equation. Thanks again all.

David K - 9-13-2012 at 09:35 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by WideAngleWandering
This looks like Shari's report:

http://forums.bajanomad.com/viewthread.php?tid=50474#pid6942...

Looks great - I hope I find my way there coming from the north.


See my earlier reply... and if you like, I can draw the route on a map...

WideAngleWandering - 9-13-2012 at 10:01 AM

Hah, no, don't make it too easy. I've got your notes saved.

New baja photos (punta banda & san pedro martir) are up: http://www.flickr.com/photos/wideanglewandering/7981541593/i...

Off I go ...

David K - 9-13-2012 at 10:07 AM

Have a great trip!:bounce:

WideAngleWandering - 9-26-2012 at 01:04 PM

I've come to the inevitable conclusion that there is just too much Baja to see and not enough time to see it on this trip. So frustrating but at least now I know I'll be back.

Had a great time with Shari & crew up at Asuncion. I highly recommend visiting. Their place at the Bufadora Inn is amazing and the campground at Campo Sirena is one of the nicest I've stayed in. A library, wifi, good shower, and surf. What more could you want?

I fled the hurricane (which seems to be fizzling?) for Santa Rosalia. I'm heading down towards Loreto, still pondering a side-trip to Comondu. It's hard to believe I've already been in Baja for over 6 weeks and there's still so much ground to cover.

shari - 9-26-2012 at 02:07 PM

we sure enjoyed your visit too sir....please dont miss Comondu...your camera will thank you!

you were so brave out there snorkeling with the sea lions dude!



I sure loved riding co-pilot with you in your groovy baja rig...it's the bomb! safe journey amigo and see you back here one day...we have lots more to explore.



[Edited on 9-26-2012 by shari]

DENNIS - 9-26-2012 at 02:46 PM

We need to give Dillon a manageable name like........uh....Dillon.....or so it says on his U2U.

Go gettem Dillon.
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