TWs AV Timbabichi & Guajademi Trip Report

This was one of my best Baja trips. Four days of camping followed by 3 nights in a motel. My brother Bill and I left Hemit Saturday morning and crossed at TJ. We stopped at the border and got our Tourist Visas. Much simpler than in the past although the parking situation leaves a lot to be desired.

Down the toll road into Ensenada and out on hwy 3 to San Felipe. Gas and go to Gonzaga Bay. We topped off the gas tank and head over to Alfonsina’s for fish and shrimp tacos. After dinner we take off for Cocos. Everyone had gone to bed so we drive over to the south side of the compound and make camp. The wind was blowing hard from the south so we stuff the underside of the truck with everything we can to help keep the wind off us.

Morning comes and Coco is up and about along with some friends. Soon others arrive. Two ladies setup a table with T shirts to sell for Coco. Mag 7 sets up a pit for fueling and repairing the racers from the NORRA Mexican 1000 race that started this morning in Mexicali. Nomad XRPhil shows up. He will join us for the trip down to Agua Verde etc. We hang around watching the race vehicles go thru. First some motorcycles then the cars and trucks. I tried to get a picture of Walker Evans but he was so fast I only got his dust. We left about 3:30pm to head south.

Out to to highway 1 and turn south. On the highway we come upon a race truck, looked like a 1966 Ford. They had stopped and shut off the engine and when they tried to start it they didn’t have enough battery juice. We jumped it using two sets of jumper cables and off they went to LA Bay for the night. We continued on to Jesus Maria for gas and out to Laguna Manuela. We camped by the Light House. Phil made delicious chicken and black bean burritos for dinner.

Up at day light we just have a snack for breakfast and opted to get on the road ASAP. At the state border no one asked for our visa papers but did charge us 20 pesos for the spray. Looks to me like just some steam coming up from a slot in the pavement. We gas in San Ignacio and pass thru Santa Rosalia and Mulege stopping in Loreto for gas. Along the way we noticed the new bridges that were built. Some are very long. Looks like a really good job.

Traveling down hwy 1 we take the Agua Verde turnoff and finally come to a sign that says TW with an arrow on it. We turn left and follow the road to the Palapa where we find several more Nomads. There was DTbushpilot (Dave) and Jill. Bajatripper (Steve) with the wife and two sons. The Squirecircle (Roy) and Blanche and Fernweh (Karl). They were all so excited to see us, the cheers and hugs were overwhelming. We introduced ourselves and then setup camp and had dinner before dark. It was a great place to camp and even better place to swim. The water was so clear. Even the fish were excited; they kept jumping out of the water to get a better look at us. Later we sat around the campfire swapping stories. Soon it was bedtime.

The next morning was beautiful. I cooked bacon and eggs and grits for Phil and Bill and I along with toasted English muffins. Soon Karl called us together and we planned our day. First, a trip to a nearby beach. What a beautiful place it was with sail boats at anchor. Next down the arroyo for the climb out over the mountains. Going down the arroyo I could hear a banging type sound from under the passenger side. Everyone had stopped before the climb out so I took the time to investigate. With help of others we found the bottom sway bar nut was loose. With it tightened we’re on the go again. Soon we meet the road crew that is grading the road, Steve and Karl swap road conditions with them. Over the top and on to a village where Karl, Steve, Dave and Phil talk to the locals about the road to Timbabichi. The locals suggest a trail to the south. With Karl in the lead off we go. It was not a real difficult trail but a few times it faded and usually Karl would backtrack and find it again. It is beautiful country with ranches along the way.

We finally come to a well graded road and pulled into a shaded corral area to get our bearings. Bill and I are the last to leave and when we get to the road no one is in sight. I radio Phil and ask which way he went. West, no I went east. So I go east I thought but could not see dust so I turn around and go west I thought. Frankly I don’t know where I’m going, I’m lost with no hope in sight. Finally Phil is on the radio and is on the way to me. He shows up from the east which I think was really west and we go west which is really east. Are you with me so far? The squarecircle shows up too from the same direction. We turn right which I think is north but is really south. Now I’m confused. We meet up with the group and head east we think until Karl finally sees the error of our ways and announces we are going west and ask me to turn around and go back to a junction we passed for a GPS reading. Soon a truck appears with a Mexican couple and we ask for directions to Timbabichi. He says go back to the cross road and turn right and points to it. It’s only a couple hundred yards. I radio this to Karl. There was a little delay in them joining us because the squarecircle had to zip tie a loose boot on some part of his right rear on the Land Rover. In hindsight I feel kind of stupid because if I had noticed the sun and its shadow for the time I would have known which way was east and west as well north and south.

We follow the directions given us and after about 30 miles we crest the mountain top and what a sight. The beautiful Sea of Cortez. The road down is just as impressive with its steep grade and sharp turns. Some may want to close their eyes unless they are driving. Soon we are in the village of Timbabichi. The old hacienda stands tall but has fallen into decay. Most of the wood has been removed but the brick and mortar have held together well for over a 100 years. Being near dark Dave and Phil head to the water for a camping spot and Bill and I wait for the others to catch up. Steve talks to the locals.

Everyone is tired from the long days drive so after dinner we all turn in. The wind is sharp cutting thru my sleeping bag. It’s not cold but I guess you would call it the wind chill factor. I use a blanket to shield the wind. The next morning is beautiful. The sun rising over the ocean. The sandy beach seems to go on forever in both directions. Mucho drift wood covers the upper beach area, certainly no problem with firewood. After breakfast and exploring the beach area we load up to head back to the village but first Karl wants to go north and check out a couple of beaches a friend told him about. I follow Karl but the others go back to town.

To the north we come upon two beaches one was an extension of where we camped. The other was over to another cove area. Both were clean and inviting and worth another trip to explore the area better. We soon join the others and the locals show us pictures and documents about the settlement of Timbabichi. It all started with a couple of pearls and a family with 13 kids. Steve read the Spanish version of the history document and I took a picture of the English version. The people were warm and friendly and very interested in our interest in them and their history. From what I understand their main source of income is from Lobster fishing. Before leaving we left some food supplies with them.

We leave up and over the steep mountain road and travel toward CD Constitucion thru farm and ranch land. In talking to one of the farmers Steve found out that the corn crop was to be plowed under to nourish the next crop. At Constitucion we gas up and make our way to a restaurant where we have a final dinner before parting our ways. After dinner Steve and Karl are off to La Paz. Dave and Jill head to the east cape. Phil, Roy, Blanche , Bill and I go north to La Purisima and our first night in a hotel. $25 for a real bed and shower and Direct TV with a million channels, how sweet it is.

The next morning we embark on the journey toward Mulege. First we stop at Purisima Vieja and view the stone wall. We leave some supplies with the rancher. Next we follow the trail along the Guajademi that a couple of Nomads did earlier this year. Passing ranches and cowboys on horseback offering a cold cerveza to those who wanted it. Climbing up one of the rocky hills Roy sliced the side of his right front tire on the Range Rover. The only problem on the trip other than my loose sway bar nut. Tire replaced and on we push to Mulege. This is really beautiful country. Soon we arrive and settle in at the Serenidad hotel. After checking in we meet for dinner and drinks and talk of our trip. Phil got up early and left for the border. He had a payroll to meet and needed to make hast. Bill and I have breakfast while Roy and Blanche were sleeping in. We load up and say our goodbyes. We drive all day and arrive in Ensenada at dark staying in the Joker hotel. About a thousand pre-teen kids keep the place hopping until about 10:30, then all is quiet. The next day, Saturday, we cross the border at Tecate taking about 30 minutes half of which was in secondary. On my way home I was thinking how great the trip had been and how I look forward to another with my Nomad friends.

Cocos new ride:


Mag 7 Pit


First thru

The Lighthouse at Laguna Manuela


An inviting beach near the Lighthouse


McMillin finishing Day 2


After turning off to Agua Verde. Holly Batman what is that green stuff!!!

The camp at Agua Verde


Water to dream of, so calm and clear


The brave and fearless gang of Nomads ready for action


Where we were

The cove over the hill


The road crew


The majestic mountains


Passing a ranch

Timbabichi beach looking south


Looking north


Bill and Roy discuss fish hooks and flies


Blanche refers to the Almanac searching for a better road out

Phil takes a swig to cool down


Dave getting ready to packup


Steve and his wife explaining to Jr. how to light the camp stove


One of the beaches to the north

The Hacienda


Another view


An inside view


A race truck or look a like

The original family, mom, pop, 3 boys and 10 girls


The family history in english notice how it is spelled with an e not an i, Tembabichi. Spanish version same with an e.


Some of the descendants


Some village homes


[Edited on 5-10-2012 by TW]

Up and out, hold on to your hat


Dinner in Constitucion, the cops got fed first, we had to wait


The hotel Posada del Angel


Rock fence at Purisima Vieja


[Edited on 5-10-2012 by TW]

Paso Hondo


Buenos Aires


Rian damage to old road


Road up and away

Water basin?


The view on top


Another view of the switchbacks


The road keeps going and going

Roy got a boo boo on his Range Rover


Interesting tree


Get along little doggies


Getting close to Mulege

Did you know there is a hotel at Las Tres Virgenes?


The new bridges


Looks to be well built

Here are the Google Earth paths taken. While I mention the steepness of the road in some areas none were so steep that any of us had second thoughts about doing it. In the case of Timbabichi the locals go in and out on a regular basis as well as the ranchers along the trail from San Isidro to Mulege. But you don't want to have a brake failure either.

The first shows the route out of Agua Verde., Note the path labeled route taken? is what I think we took from the village to join the Timbabichi road.


This shows the path from San Isidro east of La Purisima to Mulege

Thank much for letting us go along ... great trip ... and thanks for all the work.. really enjoyed ....

THANK YOU, Tom! I just skimmed the report and pics enough to see that I need to get a little work done and them come back to it when I have an hour or so to give it justice. I'm going to find myself on this route soon and want to get some more info.

BTW, I've seen that Bradey Racing Bronco all over La Paz.

Something else, I hate it when people give me advice on border crossings, but...

if you guys are leaving Hemet, you should take the county roads down to the 8 fwy thru the desert and head across at Mexicali! On my trips down thru CoCo's Corner to BoLA, I left Temecula and in a matter of minutes I felt like I was on vacation cause the desert roads are so much fun.

Quote:

Originally posted by TW The original family, mom, pop, 3 boys and 10 girls The family history in english notice how it is spelled with an e not an i, Tembabichi. Spanish version same with an e. Some of the descendants Some village homes [Edited on 5-10-2012 by TW]

Quote:

Originally posted by TW The camp at Agua Verde ... Where we were

Hey TW -- I was about to camp in that very spot, but I saw this sign (below) and so wasn't sure my presence would be appreciated. Do you know what they mean by RESTRICTED AREA? Keep out? Camping OK? (This was when I passed through in May 2012.)



-- Geoff

We did the trip on our bikes in 2019. Read this thread and posts from Tom on Timbabichi while doing prep. The truck followed behind. It is a really fun ride down to the ocean through the canyon. I mapped out the last part to Puerto Gato on Google Earth before hand and loaded it into Back Country Navigator.

After hitting Timbachichi, we had a couple beers and started heading North for Gato just as the sun was setting. It's about a 3.5 mile ride. Easy, peezy. There were two ways you could go, along the coast or inland. My son and I went the inland route and the truck forked to the coast. I made the wrong choice.

The "trail" got much fainter and much more difficult as we fell into dusk. Then I realized my phone, which was our GPS, was at 5% battery and my kid's bike was on fumes. A lot of adrenaline pushed us to ride it as fast as we could. It was definitely one of the tougher rides we've had in Baja. A lot of quick up and downs. We did the last bit in the dark until my phone died.

I was pretty worried we were going to have to walk it. Called the truck using our handheld and they were able to find us as we were very close to where the trails met up again. We were kinda freaked out before they reached us; it was pitch dark and we didn't know for sure which way to go. And my MX friend calling me a p#ssy over the radio didn't help.

Will have that memory with my oldest son forever.




[Edited on 4-2-2023 by JZ]

Quote: Originally posted by Bajatripper

Quote: Originally posted by KurtG Quote: Originally posted by Bajatripper Quote: Originally posted by KurtG TW, How would you rate the Guajadami road versus the road out of Agua Verde to San Jose de la Noria as to degree of difficulty. Our Explorer handled the former ok and we would like to do the Agua Verde road this fall but I rate the Explorer as strictly a medium duty 4wd. With care it has taken us on some rugged roads but I am aware of its limitations. Thanks, Kurt You shouldn't have any problem taking that Explorer over the roads we took. Have fun. Our thought is to do that route south from Agua Verde and then on to Evaristo and down the coast to La Paz. Probably in late Oct. Care to join us? If I'm still in the area and have replaced my tires by then, I'd love to. You probably wouldn't have any problems rounding up a willing group if you started a thread and set a date for the outing.

Quote: Originally posted by AKgringo

So, the vibration on the road on an old bike with wind in your face acts as a natural pacemaker? Makes sense to me.....if you had a subscription to Netflix and an easy chair back then, you might be dead by now!