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TWs AV Timbabichi & Guajademi Trip Report
This was one of my best Baja trips. Four days of camping followed by 3 nights in a motel. My brother Bill and I left Hemit Saturday morning and
crossed at TJ. We stopped at the border and got our Tourist Visas. Much simpler than in the past although the parking situation leaves a lot to be
desired.
Down the toll road into Ensenada and out on hwy 3 to San Felipe. Gas and go to Gonzaga Bay. We topped off the gas tank and head over to Alfonsina’s
for fish and shrimp tacos. After dinner we take off for Cocos. Everyone had gone to bed so we drive over to the south side of the compound and make
camp. The wind was blowing hard from the south so we stuff the underside of the truck with everything we can to help keep the wind off us.
Morning comes and Coco is up and about along with some friends. Soon others arrive. Two ladies setup a table with T shirts to sell for Coco. Mag 7
sets up a pit for fueling and repairing the racers from the NORRA Mexican 1000 race that started this morning in Mexicali. Nomad XRPhil shows up. He
will join us for the trip down to Agua Verde etc. We hang around watching the race vehicles go thru. First some motorcycles then the cars and trucks.
I tried to get a picture of Walker Evans but he was so fast I only got his dust. We left about 3:30pm to head south.
Out to to highway 1 and turn south. On the highway we come upon a race truck, looked like a 1966 Ford. They had stopped and shut off the engine and
when they tried to start it they didn’t have enough battery juice. We jumped it using two sets of jumper cables and off they went to LA Bay for the
night. We continued on to Jesus Maria for gas and out to Laguna Manuela. We camped by the Light House. Phil made delicious chicken and black bean
burritos for dinner.
Up at day light we just have a snack for breakfast and opted to get on the road ASAP. At the state border no one asked for our visa papers but did
charge us 20 pesos for the spray. Looks to me like just some steam coming up from a slot in the pavement. We gas in San Ignacio and pass thru Santa
Rosalia and Mulege stopping in Loreto for gas. Along the way we noticed the new bridges that were built. Some are very long. Looks like a really good
job.
Traveling down hwy 1 we take the Agua Verde turnoff and finally come to a sign that says TW with an arrow on it. We turn left and follow the road to
the Palapa where we find several more Nomads. There was DTbushpilot (Dave) and Jill. Bajatripper (Steve) with the wife and two sons. The Squirecircle
(Roy) and Blanche and Fernweh (Karl). They were all so excited to see us, the cheers and hugs were overwhelming. We introduced ourselves and then
setup camp and had dinner before dark. It was a great place to camp and even better place to swim. The water was so clear. Even the fish were excited;
they kept jumping out of the water to get a better look at us. Later we sat around the campfire swapping stories. Soon it was bedtime.
The next morning was beautiful. I cooked bacon and eggs and grits for Phil and Bill and I along with toasted English muffins. Soon Karl called us
together and we planned our day. First, a trip to a nearby beach. What a beautiful place it was with sail boats at anchor. Next down the arroyo for
the climb out over the mountains. Going down the arroyo I could hear a banging type sound from under the passenger side. Everyone had stopped before
the climb out so I took the time to investigate. With help of others we found the bottom sway bar nut was loose. With it tightened we’re on the go
again. Soon we meet the road crew that is grading the road, Steve and Karl swap road conditions with them. Over the top and on to a village where
Karl, Steve, Dave and Phil talk to the locals about the road to Timbabichi. The locals suggest a trail to the south. With Karl in the lead off we go.
It was not a real difficult trail but a few times it faded and usually Karl would backtrack and find it again. It is beautiful country with ranches
along the way.
We finally come to a well graded road and pulled into a shaded corral area to get our bearings. Bill and I are the last to leave and when we get to
the road no one is in sight. I radio Phil and ask which way he went. West, no I went east. So I go east I thought but could not see dust so I turn
around and go west I thought. Frankly I don’t know where I’m going, I’m lost with no hope in sight. Finally Phil is on the radio and is on the way to
me. He shows up from the east which I think was really west and we go west which is really east. Are you with me so far? The squarecircle shows up too
from the same direction. We turn right which I think is north but is really south. Now I’m confused. We meet up with the group and head east we think
until Karl finally sees the error of our ways and announces we are going west and ask me to turn around and go back to a junction we passed for a GPS
reading. Soon a truck appears with a Mexican couple and we ask for directions to Timbabichi. He says go back to the cross road and turn right and
points to it. It’s only a couple hundred yards. I radio this to Karl. There was a little delay in them joining us because the squarecircle had to zip
tie a loose boot on some part of his right rear on the Land Rover. In hindsight I feel kind of stupid because if I had noticed the sun and its shadow
for the time I would have known which way was east and west as well north and south.
We follow the directions given us and after about 30 miles we crest the mountain top and what a sight. The beautiful Sea of Cortez. The road down is
just as impressive with its steep grade and sharp turns. Some may want to close their eyes unless they are driving. Soon we are in the village of
Timbabichi. The old hacienda stands tall but has fallen into decay. Most of the wood has been removed but the brick and mortar have held together well
for over a 100 years. Being near dark Dave and Phil head to the water for a camping spot and Bill and I wait for the others to catch up. Steve talks
to the locals.
Everyone is tired from the long days drive so after dinner we all turn in. The wind is sharp cutting thru my sleeping bag. It’s not cold but I guess
you would call it the wind chill factor. I use a blanket to shield the wind. The next morning is beautiful. The sun rising over the ocean. The sandy
beach seems to go on forever in both directions. Mucho drift wood covers the upper beach area, certainly no problem with firewood. After breakfast and
exploring the beach area we load up to head back to the village but first Karl wants to go north and check out a couple of beaches a friend told him
about. I follow Karl but the others go back to town.
To the north we come upon two beaches one was an extension of where we camped. The other was over to another cove area. Both were clean and inviting
and worth another trip to explore the area better. We soon join the others and the locals show us pictures and documents about the settlement of
Timbabichi. It all started with a couple of pearls and a family with 13 kids. Steve read the Spanish version of the history document and I took a
picture of the English version. The people were warm and friendly and very interested in our interest in them and their history. From what I
understand their main source of income is from Lobster fishing. Before leaving we left some food supplies with them.
We leave up and over the steep mountain road and travel toward CD Constitucion thru farm and ranch land. In talking to one of the farmers Steve found
out that the corn crop was to be plowed under to nourish the next crop. At Constitucion we gas up and make our way to a restaurant where we have a
final dinner before parting our ways. After dinner Steve and Karl are off to La Paz. Dave and Jill head to the east cape. Phil, Roy, Blanche , Bill
and I go north to La Purisima and our first night in a hotel. $25 for a real bed and shower and Direct TV with a million channels, how sweet it is.
The next morning we embark on the journey toward Mulege. First we stop at Purisima Vieja and view the stone wall. We leave some supplies with the
rancher. Next we follow the trail along the Guajademi that a couple of Nomads did earlier this year. Passing ranches and cowboys on horseback offering
a cold cerveza to those who wanted it. Climbing up one of the rocky hills Roy sliced the side of his right front tire on the Range Rover. The only
problem on the trip other than my loose sway bar nut. Tire replaced and on we push to Mulege. This is really beautiful country. Soon we arrive and
settle in at the Serenidad hotel. After checking in we meet for dinner and drinks and talk of our trip. Phil got up early and left for the border. He
had a payroll to meet and needed to make hast. Bill and I have breakfast while Roy and Blanche were sleeping in. We load up and say our goodbyes. We
drive all day and arrive in Ensenada at dark staying in the Joker hotel. About a thousand pre-teen kids keep the place hopping until about 10:30, then
all is quiet. The next day, Saturday, we cross the border at Tecate taking about 30 minutes half of which was in secondary. On my way home I was
thinking how great the trip had been and how I look forward to another with my Nomad friends.
Cocos new ride:
Mag 7 Pit
First thru
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TMW
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The Lighthouse at Laguna Manuela
An inviting beach near the Lighthouse
McMillin finishing Day 2
After turning off to Agua Verde. Holly Batman what is that green stuff!!!
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TMW
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The camp at Agua Verde
Water to dream of, so calm and clear
The brave and fearless gang of Nomads ready for action
Where we were
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TMW
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The cove over the hill
The road crew
The majestic mountains
Passing a ranch
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TMW
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Timbabichi beach looking south
Looking north
Bill and Roy discuss fish hooks and flies
Blanche refers to the Almanac searching for a better road out
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Phil takes a swig to cool down
Dave getting ready to packup
Steve and his wife explaining to Jr. how to light the camp stove
One of the beaches to the north
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The Hacienda
Another view
An inside view
A race truck or look a like
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The original family, mom, pop, 3 boys and 10 girls
The family history in english notice how it is spelled with an e not an i, Tembabichi. Spanish version same with an e.
Some of the descendants
Some village homes
[Edited on 5-10-2012 by TW]
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TMW
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Up and out, hold on to your hat
Dinner in Constitucion, the cops got fed first, we had to wait
The hotel Posada del Angel
Rock fence at Purisima Vieja
[Edited on 5-10-2012 by TW]
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TMW
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Paso Hondo
Buenos Aires
Rian damage to old road
Road up and away
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Water basin?
The view on top
Another view of the switchbacks
The road keeps going and going
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Roy got a boo boo on his Range Rover
Interesting tree
Get along little doggies
Getting close to Mulege
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TMW
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Did you know there is a hotel at Las Tres Virgenes?
The new bridges
Looks to be well built
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David K
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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A+++ Trip Report Tom, thanks!!
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jbcoug
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Registered: 9-24-2006
Location: Vancouver, WA
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Mood: Needing Baja!
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Excellent report! Entertaining and awe inspiring.
John
\"The average dog is a nicer person than the average person.\" Andy Rooney
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TMW
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Here are the Google Earth paths taken. While I mention the steepness of the road in some areas none were so steep that any of us had second thoughts
about doing it. In the case of Timbabichi the locals go in and out on a regular basis as well as the ranchers along the trail from San Isidro to
Mulege. But you don't want to have a brake failure either.
The first shows the route out of Agua Verde., Note the path labeled route taken? is what I think we took from the village to join the Timbabichi road.
This shows the path from San Isidro east of La Purisima to Mulege
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Ateo
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Yeah, a+ report TW. Looks like an awesome trip. I did San Juanico to Mulege one time and that area west of Mulege is beautiful.
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KurtG
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Location: California Central Coast
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Mood: Press On Regardless!!
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TW,
How would you rate the Guajadami road versus the road out of Agua Verde to San Jose de la Noria as to degree of difficulty. Our Explorer handled the
former ok and we would like to do the Agua Verde road this fall but I rate the Explorer as strictly a medium duty 4wd. With care it has taken us on
some rugged roads but I am aware of its limitations.
Thanks,
Kurt
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Bajatripper
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| Quote: | Originally posted by KurtG
TW,
How would you rate the Guajadami road versus the road out of Agua Verde to San Jose de la Noria as to degree of difficulty. Our Explorer handled the
former ok and we would like to do the Agua Verde road this fall but I rate the Explorer as strictly a medium duty 4wd. With care it has taken us on
some rugged roads but I am aware of its limitations.
Thanks,
Kurt |
You shouldn't have any problem taking that Explorer over the roads we took. Have fun.
There most certainly is but one side to every story: the TRUTH. Variations of it are nothing but lies.
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KurtG
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bajatripper
| Quote: | Originally posted by KurtG
TW,
How would you rate the Guajadami road versus the road out of Agua Verde to San Jose de la Noria as to degree of difficulty. Our Explorer handled the
former ok and we would like to do the Agua Verde road this fall but I rate the Explorer as strictly a medium duty 4wd. With care it has taken us on
some rugged roads but I am aware of its limitations.
Thanks,
Kurt |
You shouldn't have any problem taking that Explorer over the roads we took. Have fun. |
Our thought is to do that route south from Agua Verde and then on to Evaristo and down the coast to La Paz. Probably in late Oct. Care to join us?
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