BajaNomad

Rigged for Baja trailering

SFandH - 9-10-2012 at 09:08 AM

20" shaft motor mounted on 15" transom using jack plates. Home made "transom saver" to transfer the load to the trailer. On the front of the motor I have a steel strap bolted to the motor and the transom to stop the motor from pivoting left/right, up/down.

Comments?

motor 001.jpg - 47kB

DavidE - 9-10-2012 at 09:12 AM

Cut-proof manganese steel chain and top quality padlock, with a shroud guard.

trailerig

captkw - 9-10-2012 at 09:19 AM

HOLA, repack and inspect wheelbearings and install "bearing buddy's and take lugs off and put back together with triple guard grease..better than antiseeez...tie,tie,tie down and recheck often!! service motor and gearcase and the thermastat and poppet valve and spring.....clean and service reels with new line and go tackle shopping!!! K&T:cool: ps METAL MOUNTED ROD HOLDERS WITH SAFTEY CLIPS

[Edited on 9-10-2012 by captkw]

is thyat a 48 speciel ??

captkw - 9-10-2012 at 09:21 AM

WOW !! CABLE AND PULLY STEERING!!!! PS THAT PROP WILL BE RUNNING A BIT DEEP !! LITTLE TOP END LOSS BUT THAT BOAT SHOULD FLY !!:yes:

[Edited on 9-10-2012 by captkw]

[Edited on 9-10-2012 by captkw]

SFandH - 9-10-2012 at 09:31 AM

I'm going to loosen and tighten the lug nuts. I have buddy bearings and marine grade grease - lots of it.

Found this video about how to fix the REALLY STUPID no vent gas cans. At about 3:15 starts the part about installing a vent.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0lcnwdIYEfI&feature=relat...

bajajeffrey - 9-10-2012 at 09:33 AM

Great setup, but if your going to remote locations I recommend an Eide automatic car/truck loader.
Gets rid of the trailer worries.

Russ - 9-10-2012 at 09:34 AM

I can't tell if you have plastic glides on your bunks or not but they really make things easy.

GREEEZE THE LUG STUDS

captkw - 9-10-2012 at 09:35 AM

BAJA "RAMP'S" AND I USE THE WORD LOOSELY DONT HAVE WASH DOWN WATER AND IF YOU DONT PREP YOUR STUDS WITH A GOOD MARINE GREEEZ ITS A BAD DAY IF YOU GET A FLAT AND THE TIRE WONT COME OFF OR YOU BREAK OFF ALL THE STUDS....K&T:cool:

SFandH - 9-10-2012 at 09:41 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by captkw
WOW !! CABLE AND PULLY STEERING!!!! PS THAT PROP WILL BE RUNNING A BIT DEEP !! LITTLE TOP END LOSS BUT THAT BOAT SHOULD FLY !!:yes:

[Edited on 9-10-2012 by captkw]

[Edited on 9-10-2012 by captkw]


'86 40 horse Evinrude on a '64 14', rather heavy riveted aluminum Starcraft. Max rating 40 hp. Yup cable and pulley steering. I'm buying/installing new stainless steel cable and rigging goodies. The pulley hangers are all in good shape.

I don't go too far off road, plus a boat on a trailer is a good cargo hauler for light bulky things like folding chairs and coolers.

[Edited on 9-10-2012 by SFandH]

86 40 HP

captkw - 9-10-2012 at 09:50 AM

WITH THE RIGHT PROP THAT WILL FLY !! JOHNSON/EVINRUDE ARE KNOWN FOR PWR PACK FAIL..RECOMMEND YOU INSTALL A NEW ONE IF NOT REPLACED YET!! 80 BUCKS BEATS SITTING ON THE WATER WAITING FOR A TOW..ALSO HIGHLY REC. A ICOM OR STANTARD BRAND HANDHELD VHF!!!

SFandH - 9-10-2012 at 10:05 AM

"JOHNSON/EVINRUDE ARE KNOWN FOR PWR PACK FAIL..RECOMMEND YOU INSTALL A NEW ONE IF NOT REPLACED YET"

I don't know what you're talking about. Is this a mysterious electronic black box of some kind? Give me a link.

What would the right prop be? But I'm not changing this one unless I need to.

Skipjack Joe - 9-10-2012 at 10:08 AM

It depends on how much you plan on driving it on washboard roads. I wouldn't take it on the gonzaga road for example. If you decide to do it anyway then deflate those tires and drive slowly (<=10mph).

SFandH - 9-10-2012 at 10:21 AM

My wife refuses to go on washboard roads. I don't blame her. And she's much more a keeper than any fish. 8^)

PROP

captkw - 9-10-2012 at 10:24 AM

THE PROP YOU HAVE ON THERE NOW SHOULD WORK OK.. BUT I CAN TELL YOU ITS NICE TO HAVE A SPARE !!! AND A LOT OF BOATS ARE PROPPED WRONG EVEN BOATS FROM THE FACTORY!!! YEP !! AND THE POWER PACK IS MOUNTED ON THE BACK OF THE MOTOR AND YOU CAN CHANGE IT YOURSELF 5 X 2 X2 BLACK BOX WITH WIRES COMING FROM UNDER THE FLYWHEEL GOING IN AND WIRES COMING OUT GOING TO THE COILS..CK OUT CDI ELECTONICS 113-2453 TO GIVE YOU A PIC OF A PWR PACK..THEY ARE A WEAK POINT IN A OTHERWISE VERY GOOD OLD SCHOOL MOTOR AND IF YOURS IS OLD YOU SHOULD CONSIDER REPLACING IT...AND YES" ITS EASY FOR ME TO SPEND YOUR MONEY" BUT THAT IS A KNOWN FAILURE PART ON THOSE GREAT MOTORS..K&T

SFandH - 9-10-2012 at 10:28 AM

Thanks, I'm all for having spare parts.

Cisco - 9-10-2012 at 11:05 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by captkw
AND A LOT OF BOATS ARE PROPPED WRONG EVEN BOATS FROM THE FACTORY!!!


Depending on load and utilization.

When I had broken in the engine on my last Blackman skiff I got half-a-dozen props from the shop and went down to the bay, ran the boat with full fuel and bait tank to try and get some weight in it and kept changing props until I came up with one which ran at the proper max RPM.

Interestingly it was not an off the shelf stock prop either but a reworked wheel.

Boat ran beautifully under just about all conditions.

vacaenbaja - 9-10-2012 at 11:07 AM

When repacking your wheel bearings make sure that the
grease sael is in good shape. It is a double lipped seal designed to keep the grease in and the water out. If it is not sealing right you will get water in your wheel bearings.
I always take an extra set of bearings and seals just in case.

SFandH - 9-10-2012 at 11:33 AM

Quote:
Originally posted by vacaenbaja
When repacking your wheel bearings make sure that the
grease sael is in good shape. It is a double lipped seal designed to keep the grease in and the water out. If it is not sealing right you will get water in your wheel bearings.
I always take an extra set of bearings and seals just in case.


I have Buddy Bearings. A mechanic in Ensenada replaced the bearings and seals last year. The grease now squishes out the inside of the hub. I'm constantly adding new grease. Did he use the wrong parts? I guess I should order new bearings and seals.

Thanks for the reminder.

mcfez - 9-10-2012 at 11:56 AM

:light::light::light:

McFez thinks that's one swell set up! I like many of us do the wash board dance.......and this contraption you came up with is great.

At the V hold........is there a rubber padding there? How bout a close up picture?

[Edited on 9-10-2012 by mcfez]

vacaenbaja - 9-10-2012 at 12:17 PM

http://www.etrailer.com/question-21505.html

Here you go.

vgabndo - 9-10-2012 at 01:48 PM

The experience of my friends says: 40 hp x 14' + rivets x SOC X time=BBN (Bailing bucket necessary)

My old WELDED 16' Klamath with a 35 Honda was BBN after half a dozen years on the SOC.:lol:

I recommend using about 15 hp of that when its choppy!

Then again I'm la Gallina del Mar.

A buddy of mine had a riveted 14 we fished a few times in the San Nicolas' Bay. Quietly drifting bait, you could HEAR the thing leaking!

boat trasiler seal

captkw - 9-10-2012 at 02:04 PM

have the seal's facing out from each other and fill the cavity between with greeeze.. and the seal springs must be s.s.very important and a lot tire guys and shops dont know that and aslo a lot of tire shop dont know a trailer tire is very different and must say ST on the side !!! and the big tire chains in the states sell/install wrong tires all day long !!! ST=special trailer...welcome to my world !!! K&T

Santiago - 9-10-2012 at 02:14 PM

Let me know if you need any help putting in a new impeller......:lol:

comitan - 9-10-2012 at 02:18 PM

Just one more if you have buddy bearings do not overfill you will blow out the inner seal and will leak.

bearing buddy

captkw - 9-10-2012 at 02:46 PM

HOLA COMITAN... yep just fill them till you rock the "plate" in the middle with the zerk in it...and the "bra's" help to keep the greeez of your "rig" and one thing that none of us seem to do is let the hubs cool before ya spash/bury em !! hell,wheniI get to the ramp/beach that boat is agoing in !! and to hell with waiting !!! K&T...P.S. SANTIAGA, looking for a job !! lol

SFandH - 9-10-2012 at 02:47 PM

capkw, check your U2U, I have a motor question

bigmike58 - 9-10-2012 at 04:27 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by Santiago
Let me know if you need any help putting in a new impeller......:lol:


now that's a good one!!:lol::lol::lol:

805gregg - 9-10-2012 at 05:32 PM

Buddy bearings are ment to add pressure just before you launch, because your wheels and bearings will be warm and the colder water will cool them and get sucked in, so if you add grease just before you launch you bild up pressure helping to keep the water out, as told to me by a trailer builder. They are not for greasing your bearings.

SFandH - 9-10-2012 at 06:00 PM

Quote:
Originally posted by 805gregg
Buddy bearings are ment to add pressure just before you launch, because your wheels and bearings will be warm and the colder water will cool them and get sucked in, so if you add grease just before you launch you bild up pressure helping to keep the water out, as told to me by a trailer builder. They are not for greasing your bearings.


Really! That's interesting and sounds logical. Gotta luv these message boards. I'm going to use the current set-up and check things out every few hundred miles. Hopefully I won't see any smoke.

So no negative comments about the motor rigging for trailering, that's good. Things will be bouncing, it's not like a US super slab freeway.

McFez, the "transom saver" is made of 2x4s. There is a heavy duty door hinge where the short piece makes a 90 degree with the long piece, which is through bolted to the bunks. The hinge allows for angle adjustment. The vee was cut in the wood with a hand saw and shaped with a half round wood rasp. The metal strap on the front of the motor to the transom is inportant. It keeps the motor in place and stops it from rotating left/right/up/down. You could do the same thing with ropes or rope wires off of the skeg/prop/shaft and to the trailer. The strap works better tho. Of course the complete assembly is removed before launching.

[Edited on 9-11-2012 by SFandH]

Bearing buddys

captkw - 9-10-2012 at 06:44 PM

well,lets sea !! they keep the greeeez under a slight pressure and greeezed and provide a big margine of hopefully keeping the water out!! but they are not by any means foolproof and any trailer that gets dunked in water needs to get the wheel bearing checked once a yr at the min. .. and like things/systems/items on a boat are not what you think....example..has anyone here ever seen somebody pulling up to a boat ramp and waiting a hr to cool down the hubs..or gettig the B.B. a shot off greeez before or after going down the ramp??? no..we dunk um and go..but a trailer w/out B.B. is gonna go thru a lot more bearings than one without um and reg. greeeeeeeeez......K&T:cool:

mcfez - 9-11-2012 at 08:04 AM

SFandH ...............thank you for that info.