Bajadock Southbound

My second-ever drive south down the Baja peninsula begins this week. Will have 2 weeks to soak up as much adventure as possible during the 2,000+ mile drive.

The red highlighted cities on the map are planned stops.

Any suggestions on who, what, where, when, how on MUST SEEs, restaurants, rooms, etc. throughout Baja welcomed. Last/only trip to Baja Sur was Sept 2006 on my real estate search after selling my Denver home.

I won’t be taking my POS Jeep. The Pontiac VIBrator, gets the job, due to comfort and fuel economy. That will keep me on the paved and ez gravel/dirt side roads, no 4WD.

Hoping that electricity, roads and other infrastructure damages from Hurricane Paul are improving for the Baja Sur residents that are suffering.

[img]http://bajadock.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/extfrtpass.jpg?w=300&h=225[/img]
So watch out for a blue Vibe with SoDakota plates along hwy 1 Oct 25 – Nov 6.

Hope to meet new friends and old pen pals on the adventure.

[Edited on 10-21-2012 by bajadock]

woo hoo...finally we get to meet face to face Doc...Izaak has a treat waiting for you! buen viaje amigo

baja dock

Hola, been in baja all my adult life (winters) and 2 wheel drive works just fine !!!! and if that vib is front wheel drive all the better !! have a good,safe,fun trip !! K&T

I didn't know Pontiac made those things.
Have a good trip, Doc, and say hello to everyone for me.

driving Fast !!

they stay between the lines easily. Plus you can really rack up some kilometers quickly!...... Hola, My self wished they would put back up the 2 or 3 signs that read " this hwy was made for enconomic purpoises and not high speed driving "" sorta says it all !! and they have radar .. (now!) Have safe trip... dont become a statistic...... K&T ps. a few years back only gringos had cars that could run 70 kph all day...Boy has that changed !!! and no road worker fire cans !! and you dont hardly see a cow on the road anymore !! thank god !!

Thanks, all for suggestions, emails. EZ packing today with priority on camera, cooler and music.

Any suggestions for an overnight in the Loreto, San Carlos, La Paz stretch?

The Vibe is a Toyota Matrix dressed in GMC drag. Yes, Dennis, chicks dig it. Picking up my female navigator at SD airport tomorrow/Wednesday before we head south.

Yipes.....I just went backwards through a time warp.



.

[Edited on 10-23-2012 by DENNIS]

That trick is number one in the "Gringo Hater's Bible."

HUH !!

HOLA, being my claim to fame is driving..I'm myself have never had T/T give me a false sign in baja !! and I'm talking some miles and years !!! a lot of gringos dont stop and think that sometimes they might really be turning left onto that lil road on the left,,pay attention .............K&T

Tapanco

Day one of our Cabo San Lucas adventure did not get us as far south as we hoped. Long story and not important. But, we exchanged our short travel evening for a first visit to Tapanco Restaurante on the south end of Rosarito Beach. KM 31.5

Upon entry, the low lighting, woodwork and rustic appointments seem to hint that you have been here before. Tapanco is owned by the same family as the iconic El Nido Restaurante.

Mel from Jalisco was our server and he explained the complimentary table side custom salsa, the fish special and the rest of the extensive menu.

We brought along our own bottle of Rodney Strong Chardonnay, as seafood was on our mind. I didn’t notice it on the modest bill, but, if they charged us a corkage fee, it was minimal.

A delicious pico de gallo was served with chips. A few minutes later, a young man came by with his salsa cart. You get to order the ingredients made in the mocajete tableside. The roasted peppers made this salsa unique. At my guest’s request they oiled a pan and toasted some chips for a fresher, warmer flavor. We would have been satisfied with the two salsas and our chardonnay for a wonderful evening.

Next up was the on-table salad bar. Mel served a 30″ round lazy susan of fresh veggies and dressing for our salad. He also provided two special dressings. One was a basil & olive oil and the other was tequila, peppers and o.o. We were full after that fun, fresh salad.

But, we wanted more. She ordered the halibut al vapor. Veggies, peppers and a heaping dose of garlic were wrapped with the fish in a foil and baked. When Mel opened up the foil, the aromas made me wish I had ordered that dish.

I ordered the camaron enchiladas with salsa verde. I think this is the first time I have ever ordered this dish anywhere. The flavors and textures were outstanding. Because, I did not get a workout in today, I passed on the rice and beans included in the dish.

Total, including a couple of Bohemias, tax and tip was less than $50.

We also asked the meaning of “Tapanco”. The translation is “attic”. Only disappointment was that the 2nd floor “attic” isn’t open, as it must have a nice view of the Pacific.

My rating: FOUR out of five molcajetes, HIGHLY RECOMMENDED! The servings are large and the freshness and tastes are better than my memories of my 3 visits to El Nido. Will be back again to Tapanco to try more of the menu. Ask for "Mel Gibson" to serve you.
More Tapanco Photos and Map

[Edited on 10-25-2012 by bajadock]

Quote:

Originally posted by bajadock

I rented a Vibe for several months in Silicone Valley. Out of 2500 Avis days, it was a memorably good little car. The Toyota can be had with 4WD. Pontiac too?

Up here they are almost as good as a Subaru in the winter.

And yes, chick magnet cute.

Enjoy your drive. Mine will be 4 1/2 tons of 8 foot wide diesel smoking 'home' again. Enjoy your narrowness.

Here is the rear hatch view of the packed Pontiac Vibrator. We were gassing up in Maneadero on our way to San Quintin Thursday.

Early tragedy was the crash and burn of my 2.5 gallon water jug that I brought along for fresh water convenience. Not to self: when you put the water container in a convenient access spot, like near the starboard rear passenger door, if things shift, that water container may jump on to the concrete. OUCH!

Thanks to Fernando, our host at Hotel Jardines, San Quintin, we found this fine little mariscos shop. It is located approx 1 mile north of the military base. There are a handful of palapa-roofed stands on east side of highway.
Manuel and team provided fun service, a dozen very fresh and juicy oysters and one of the best mixed ceviches we have ever enjoyed. We also asked the usual permission to open our beers here and they had no problem with that.

We tipped appropriately for the good food, smiling service and local atmosphere.

Had so much food and relaxation that we were not up for dinner at Jardines. My last/only visit to Jardines restaurant was in 2006 when it was located in the main building. I preferred the older, funkier atmosphere to the new "banquet hall" feel of the bar and restaurant.

Next stop is Guerrero Negro for some supplies and the food at Malarimo Beach Hotel.

Quote:

Originally posted by bajadock

Boxed wine and Pabst Blue Ribbon.
Very classy, Doc.

Quote:

Originally posted by DENNIS Boxed wine and Pabst Blue Ribbon. Very classy, Doc.

Major comeback...for sure. I'll bet Doc's garage is loaded with the stuff.

Stayed at Hotel Jardines for first time this week. Clean room, huge bathroom, gorgeous gardens, loads of Sky tv channels including the World Series and a terrific price.

Did get to happy hour at there recommended restaurant. But, we were too stuffed from Mariscos El Perico..

Jardines restaurant has two wings connected by the reception desk. South wing is dining an north wing is the very large bar. In fact, it is too large. The high ceiling is a better fit for a museum or sterile banquet room.

The gringos in the crowd weren’t much into game 2 of the World Series. I joked that they could all be Canadians hoping that the NHL would end its labor dispute soon.

Coffee was on early in the morning. And the shower pressure and temperature were welcome on a chilly San Quintin day.

I’ll come back to Jardines again for the great hotel room value and check out the food.


[img]http://bajadock.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/jarinesbar.png?w=400&h=299[/img]

[img]http://bajadock.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/malarrimo.png?w=800&h=600[/img]
Malarrimo Beach Hotel Restaurant in Guerrero Negro was highly recommended to us.

MBHR is located on south side of main boulevard heading west, approx 1/2 mile into town. A garden room greets you before entering the very old school dining room.

Sonoron beef is their specialty. She ordered a filet mignon that was 10 ounces of juicy joy. It was served with mixed steamed veggies and covered with a mushroom wine sauce. I was lucky to get a small taste of it. It is likely the best steak I have had in Mexico.

I enjoyed a simple chef’s salads with cheese, ham and shrimp. It was very good and would hold me until my usual late dinner.

Steak fans should make Malarrimo Beach Hotel Restauarant a must DO when traveling Baja.

Finally got to meet my friend Shari in Bahia Asuncion. The scene was a unfortunate and sad due to the death of a friend of the community that week.

But, we met a few people, before unpacking from the 8 hour drive from San Quintin that morning.

Juan & Shari's B&B is on the rocks of the Pacific with crashing waves and barking sea lions providing the welcome. We stayed in the "rock room", a rustic, romantic getaway. Enjoyed the near full moon and an Argentinian Malbec on the patio with the cool breeze that evening.

Through the somber wake for their lost friend in Bahia Asuncion, we were able to find some humor. My girlfriend had a minor prescription need for some pain. 2 farmacias stocked the meds. But, the 2nd farm' said follow her to her house and she may have what we needed.



Sho' 'nuff, we scored the drugs from this little spot off the main drag. They only had enough for one night's pain relief, but, that sure helped.

The other fun was in finding a restaurant in Bahia Asuncion. Our tour only found grocery and beer stores. No bar or restaurant appeared for us. We got lucky when locals pointed us to the green building 100 yards from the funeral ceremony. "Comida rica" was the description of this little place.

Only problem was that the owners, like most everyone else in town, were attending the funeral. Restaurant was closed. Too bad, as we gotta believe the seafood would have been heavenly.

We dined on almonds to pair with our delicious Malbec. Cheers.

[Edited on 10-28-2012 by bajadock]

Hotel La Mision, Loreto, Baja Sur. aaaaaahhhhhh.

[Edited on 10-28-2012 by bajadock]

Have fun Doc.....! Who went with you? Was it one of the girls from the Agua Viva Tourney last July? You know which ones I"m talking about Sir. I had a heack of a month. Took three trip. One to Ixtapa. One to Toluca and another to Mexico D.F. !0 flights in total. I'm not going anywhere for a awhile. VERY TIRED!

Quote:

Originally posted by DENNIS Quote: Originally posted by bajadock Boxed wine and Pabst Blue Ribbon. Very classy, Doc.

who said Doc wasn't smart?

What???

Chose La Palapa Restaurant for dinner Saturday night after a stroll through the fun town of Loreto.

I enjoying walking on vacation, especially after lots of hours on the road behind the wheel. Window shopping and sticking my nose into cafes and restaurants lets me get to know a new town better. The good shops welcome you even though your body language indicates "just looking".

If I can get a peek at the menu and prices, strike up a friendly conversation with the greeter and take in the scene, I can make a reasonable guess as to the restaurant's fit to my whims of that particular evening.

La Palapa served seafood and traditional mexican dishes. They also have an outdoor grill on the street edge of the establishment. This is a smart way to gain customers with the odors drifting toward the sidewalk for passersby.

Looks like La Palapa seats about 75 people and there were only 2 other tables being served this night.

She ordered grilled white sea bass that came with a nice fresh salad. I ordered the seafood c-cktail. Bohemias were our refreshment.

Only downside to Loreto is the construction around the malecon. Asking for direction in Mexico is usually challenging, but, the construction here makes that extra tricky. La Palapa is located 2 blocks south of Hotel La Mision and 1 block west.

I will definitely go back to sample the other menu items.

Apologies for the weak photo. Took it Sunday morning when they were closed.

Hotel La Mision had its breakfast thing going on, but, I’m not a fan of most hotel restaurants. Give me a small neighborhood cafe for my coffee and a breakfast that I usually don’t make at home.

Cafe Ole in Loreto seemed to collect every tourist in town this Sunday morning. Every table except one was full in the little Mex eatery that seats about 50. They have about 6 tables out on the sidewalk underneath the palapa roof as well as indoor dining.

Only goof by Cafe Ole was running out of coffee, twice! The Sunday rush put them a bit behind on coffee making and food service. No wait staff here. Haul your bunz up to the counter, choose from dozens of traditional Mex breakfasts and lunches and they will call your order number when ready.

WiFi internet is available.

I enjoyed a ham omelette with chilaquiles, beans and home made tortillas. It was a perfect, inexpensive and simple breakfast before getting back on the road.

Noticed the 7AM – 10PM Lunes – Sabado hours. Wowzers that’s a long day of food service for the staff. Cafe Ole is located 2 blocks west of Hotel La Mision and 2 blocks south.

You have seen one Pemex and you have seen them all, right? Not so fast, Gidget.

Some have the friendliest attendants. A few have very clean bathrooms. More and more have cafes and 7/11 stores attached so that you can fill up, get some supplies, get some spiffy flavored coffee and ease you bladder bloat before heading down the road.

We got our ice at Loreto's super mercado “El Pescador” to cool down our day beverages for the road and our happy hour supply of XX, Bohemia, Indio and PBR. I knew there was a Pemex out on Hwy 1 on south end of town.

Missed the entry as this Pemex is on a side street parallel to Hwy 1, so I doubled back against the grain.

Our female attendant was not happy to see us. I got no greeting, no “zeroes” etiquette to show me that I was not paying for someone else’s gas and she spoke not one word. Maybe she had a rough Saturday night?

My galpal and trip navigator decided to test the rest room. No papel. The male attendant feigned a surprise at this announcement. Of course, no papel would be forthcoming.

In addition to my portable coffee service for this trip, I travel with toilet paper. You never know when nature calls.

On this morning, upon last minute inspection of my hotel room bath for personal items, I “refreshed” the Pontiac Vibe’s toilet paper supply with Hotel La Mision’s finest. This proved to be a lucky move, due to the unfriendly Pemex low bathroom accessory inventory.

While the bathroom drama played out, my female attendant asked her male colleague to clean my windshield. zzzzz. Nada.

Paid for my gasoline and off to La Paz we went. No Pemex smile, no food/supplies, no coffee. Had to clean off the smashed butterflies from my windshield myself, too.

Guessing the two less-than-thrilled Pemex employees were so unhappy that they must be man and wife.


[Edited on 10-29-2012 by bajadock]

[Edited on 10-30-2012 by bajadock]

Caught food, beverages and World Series game 4 at the Tail Hunter Restaurant in La Paz.

They make a very potent marguerita at Tail Hunter. Also enjoyed a mixed seafood c-cktail and ceviche.

We were greeted and asked what sporting event we wanted to watch. Futbol, football and baseball were on the menu for tonight's viewing. I had an interest in both the Giants v. Detroit baseball game and the Saints v. Broncos football game. Our host brought us up to the second deck where the main screen was the World Series and a secondary screen had football.

Chatted up several gringo boaters and sailors at Tail Hunter. Seems like the snow birds are invading La Paz now that the weather temperatures are moving toward mild.

Weather and sunset were perfect. I lost my baseball bet and have to pay that off in beverages later in Cabo San Lucas.

Found a room at El Moro in La Paz for one night.

At less than $100/night and located on the east end of the malecon, El Moro is a bit weak in quality. I would not stay here again. It was ok, but, I'm guessing La Paz hotels with more comfort would be dying to see me.

Beds were rock hard. Shower pressure was "peeing with an 80 year old prostate" strength. The room was full of mosquitoes and noseeums that enjoyed our blood.

Pool was a nice temperature, though a bit dirty. Restaurant opened form 7 - noon for breakfast. Coffee was good.

This was our 4th night on the road and I'm feeling a bit more tired than the 300 mile per day average driving should influence me. The only thing I can guess is that hauling everything out of the Vibe, then unpacking, then repacking and stuffing the Vibe each morning is a bit inconvenient.

Will solve that minor problem with 3 nights in Cabo San Lucas.

DENNIS, that is why they named the place "Tail Hunter".



I don't think I have ever quaffed an RG in my illustrious beer drinking history. How does it compare to PBR?

Quote:

Originally posted by bajadock I don't think I have ever quaffed an RG in my illustrious beer drinking history. How does it compare to PBR?

It's a photo finish.

How does a gringo get lost when driving from La Paz to Cabo San Lucas? I'm blaming my co-pilot!

Drove west from the La Paz malecon at the La Paz VW dealership with the "Highway 1/Cabo San Lucas" sign. After a couple of miles of traffic, neighborhoods and retail, we entered the open spaces. I commented that with no other sign than 5 miles ago, I was less than confident about our route.

Upon descending a mountain pass and seeing blue water, I was now very concerned. We should not be seeing water only 30 miles or so south of La Paz. In another few miles we came upon the small town of San Juan de Los Planes.

Asked a cop attending to a school letting out its kids for the day. We had taken route 286 out toward Bahia de Los Muertos. That was a minor inconvenience and my map easily pointed the way to San Antonio and Mex Hwy 1.


Was surprised by the traffic in San Jose del Cabo. Saw the airport location and shortly after that, found myself driving along the water. This is my first-ever visit to Cabo.

Our hotel is on the water in Cabo San Lucas. As it appeared to be a "fall out of the car" from highway 1 location, I did not print a map of the hotel's location.

We soon found ourselves inland and in an industrial area mixed with housing that did no exactly speak "welcome, gringos with money".

Meandered back to find a downhill street toward the water and we were in downtown Cabo. But, we dead ended at the east side of the marina.

Asked for directions three different times, before finally finding our hotel. It was easy to miss. The sign for Hotel Finisterra is 6" x 12" hidden on a brick wall.

After some drama at check in with the concierge, headed out for food and beverages on a relaxing evening.

This the location of today’s happy hour at Hotel Finisterra in Cabo San Lucas. This is the best Cabo San Lucas Beach Happy Hour I have every enjoyed. ……………………………………………………………..it is also my FIRST!

Wifi is quality speed and available at the pool adjacent to the beach. The bar, below the big honkin’ palapa roof, serves major league margies to ease the stresses of the day.

After today’s cafe on the malecon, we took a long walk there and on to the beach. Enjoyed my first visit to “The Office”.

Just had a massage on the beach.

Got a solid locals’ recommendation for our next seafood restaurant within walking distance of our hotel. Will review that one as well as last night’s cuisine and after-dinner beverage emporium.

Noticed that the best and reasonably priced places are just north of Lazaro Card##as(hwy 1).

El Sargento and La Ventana are the mecca for Kite surfers, good beaches and nice little towns. Small hotels and plenty of decent eaterys. They're not really remote and I'm not sure what I'd term undeveloped.

No condos or resort hotels and spas, that's my idea of overdeveloped.

We'll be heading there in 3 weeks. Flying down this time, to San Jose then driving. After visiting Rowdy at the Downwinder we'll go south again via the East Cape.
Lets see ya do 70-80 on that road...WooHoo!

the FIN

One of the "old" hotels and is famous for it's bathroom...enter fred and barney !!! LOL

Finding Hotel Finisterra in Cabo San Lucas was a challenge. My navigator had only taxi cabbed her way around in previous visits and this was my virgin voyage. My Pontiac Vibe does not have Mexican chipped GPS on board.

Our(ummmm....MY) first mistake was not printing a map for the hotel. Second mistake was getting distracted by construction on Hwy1 that led us west of town into an interesting 'hood.

We were at an elevation that allowed us to see the town center and the water, so we headed that way. But, now, we found ourselves on the east side of the marina and malecon. We got 3 different instruction on how to circumnavigate the marina and find Hotel Finisterra.



We unknowingly passed by the hotel entrance 3 different times. How? A sign on a large stone wall for Hotel Finisterra is a whopping 8" x 18" to indicate the location. How a massive property like this could have such an understated street presence amazes me. Maybe they are going for the private club or secret society motif?

Registration was a bit hectic. My navigator and co-pilot had made the reservation via an internet special. Needed to go back out to the car to get the internet reservation confirmation.

Then, they asked for passports. That was another trip back out to the car.

An especially exuberant fellow with the name tag "Ricardo" introduced himself as "Rick, your concierge". Rick welcomed us and asked if we would like complimentary beers. DOS Dos Equis were ordered and Rick returned with one XX and one Corona. Co-pilot enjoyed her XX and I declined the Mexican bottled water, also known as Corona.

We got our passports back, finished up the registration paperwork and were headed toward the car, when the front desk clerk announced that he needed our passports again. He forgot to photocopy them for record-keeping.,

Rick showed up again to let us know we could sit down with him to learn about all of the activities available. I'm just not a sit-down- and-listen-to-staff-sell-me-stuff kind of guy. And we had unpacking and a cooler of cold beverages waiting for us. So I did ask Rick for a bathroom and a Dos Equis.

Bathroom was down a hall, around the elevators, down a staircase and around the elevators. Very secure bathrooms here. Had success with my bladder break.

Got back up the stairs and Rick excitedly greeted me with a Corona. "We have no more Dos Equis, but, please enjoy a complimentary Corona.". I must have given Rick my best ugly gringo look possible.

Parked car, unloaded in a few trips and got to my first Pabst Blue Ribbon of the evening. But, my cooler was needing a refreshed ice supply. No mention of ice was found in the room's hotel guide.

Notice that I have not yet mentioned the beautiful lobby, clean tile, gorgeous setting, green gardens, spacious room and spectacular views. As I have written before, hotels are sheets and a shower for me. All of that other stuff just does not grab my attention.

As I usually do, I avoid the small ice buckets and de-garbage bagged the room's garbage can in pursuit of ice. Went downstairs to the lobby. My buddy, Rick, greeted me.

I asked Rick if there was an ice machine.

"What are you doing with a garbage container?"

"I'm looking for ice."

"Come on, that is too large for ice. Let me have someone bring a small ice bucket up to your room."

WOW. I have never been busted for abusing my ice privileges before. A second staff member mentioned the ice machine down the hall to the west. But, Rick corrected him, because that ice machine has been broken this week.

A third staff member intervened. There was an ice machine available down the east hall. I thanked him.

As I was headed toward my ice supply, Rick let me know that "You and your wife need to come sit down with me in the next hour to discuss our activities."

Uhhh, ummm. sure, that's the very next thing that we'll do. Gawd I'm an ugly gringo!

Introducing my copilot, ice refresher, restaurant locator, beverage concierge and more titles than I can list for our 2012 Baja Adventure.

Yes, she is Nomad "Obafla" and many Nomads in Ensenada have met her.



[Edited on 10-31-2012 by bajadock]

Las Mariscadas is a restaurant that is a slightly hidden gem of a seafood feast. We were referred there by the owner of Happy Ending Bar.

The restaurant is about a 1 mile walk from our hotel(Finisterra), located on Cabo San Lucas, 1 block north of Lazaro Card##as.

The simple palapa roof and entry open to an open air dining room that may seat 50 people.

We started with fresh oysters that were smooth and delicious.

One of their specialties is a whole fried fish. Tonight’s fish was a red snapper. Asked if they would grill it instead and they had no problem with that request.

Did not have my camera, but, you should have seen the skill with which my copilot took the fish tail and separated the meat from the spine and head within a few seconds. Asked her if she has done this before, and she said no. But, she always wanted to.

She also introduced me to a concept that I had not realized. Instead of ordering fish tacos, order a fish dish, along with veggies and some salsas. Add tortillas and you have the best fish tacos ever!

I'll always take a grilled fish to the breaded lumps that are known as Ensenada fish tacos. EFTs seem to excite gringos into euphoria. "Would you like your fresh caught fish a) fried in a vat of oil after we coat it in bread or b) lightly grilled with some garlic and olive oil?". hmmmmm.

This flaky red snapper had more than 1 pound of meat which made for a perfect dinner.

Jose, the owner, introduced himself and provided part of our food and beverage service. He has gained quite a reputation for only being in business a couple of years. Wish we were staying longer so that we could return and enjoy a fabulous seafood value.

[Edited on 11-1-2012 by bajadock]

[Edited on 11-1-2012 by bajadock]

Emma's massage with my copilot on the beach at Hotel Finisterra. We enjoyed Emma's hands two days in a row.



The waterfall leading from the 7th floor Whale Watcher bar/restaurant is a fun site at Hotel Finisterra.

Only big challenge at Hotel Finisterra Cabo San Lucas is a lack of coffee until 8AM. They DO provide in-room coffee makers, but, I was surprised that a hotel of this quality did not have morning rocket fuel somewhere around the main lobby in early morning. OXXO, 1/4 mile away was closest.

Mulege?

We're at Hotel California in Todos Santos.

Searching for Mulege/Santa Rosalia room for one night. Only have a room at Cliff's B&B in Mulege available thus far. Hoping to hear from Bob and Susan at the lighthouse.

Any new stays and recommendation in Mulege??? Thanks.

Quote:

Originally posted by bajadock We're at Hotel California in Todos Santos. Searching for Mulege/Santa Rosalia room for one night. Only have a room at Cliff's B&B in Mulege available thus far. Hoping to hear from Bob and Susan at the lighthouse. Any new stays and recommendation in Mulege??? Thanks.

April 18, 1957:



Howard Gulick photo of the Hotel California, Todos Santos.

Restaurante Equipale Mulege was a great relief for yesterday's road trip from Todos Santos.

After an unusual night when I didn't sleep much at Hotel California in T.S., we headed north. We were well fueled by H.C.s gourmet coffee and cinnamon rolls.

Made great time through La Paz. Also avoided the pain of "mordida city" in Ciudad Constitucion. There many stop signs and aggressive police force have a reputation. Very much enjoyed the mountain drive south of Loreto. Only problem on the drive was the 25 minute military inspection(approx 5 minutes per vehicle) northbound, a few Ks north of Loreto. No big deal, but, we had miles to kill along with a beverage bet on our arrival in Mulege with my copilot.

Found Restaurante Equipale by searching for directions for the famous Ray's. Locals told us about the bad road due to Ray's because of hurricane Paul and it was past 6:00PM and dark. They referred us to Restaurante Equipale. equipale: To fit out, to supply with everything necessary.

50 peso corkage fee for our Macon Villages Chardonnary is always fair, thanks. But, no clams or ceviche were available at Equipale.
Settled for a solid coctel campechana with shrimp, clams and octopus. Also had a yellowtail filet that was likely frozen. Large salad was included.

This meal would have served 3 hungry eaters. We demolished 90% of it. At 500 pesos(approx $40usd) we enjoyed the ez atmosphere at this second floor restaurant and attentive service.



Returned to our 2 c-ckroach hotel adjacent to the landing strip. One greeted us during our room tour with host. Other acted as bathroom attendant when we were putting on our faces for our big Friday night on the town in Mulege.

Good news at Serenidad was that the shower was strong and hot and the coffee in the restaurant was available at 06:30 this morning. I don't know why so many rave about Hotel Serenidad. Looks like it may have been a solid stay in the 70s or 80s.

Through gringo eyes, baños de Baja at Pemex gas stations are an interesting experience. Through gringA eyes, the experience is magnified.

During our 2,400 mile(and counting) adventure, we laughed along the way at the garbage dumps, also known as bathrooms, at Pemex stops. Gasoline, remove smashed butterflies from windshield, beverage and bathroom were our standard needs.

Here is my five star rating system for baños de Baja.

1. Abierto/Open? So many are closed due to "maintenance". During one long stretch, we found a newish looking Pemex approx 30 miles north of La Paz on hwy 1. My copilot was about to irrigate the gardens, but, we made it to the Pemex at the north entry to La Paz.

2. Llave/Key necesario? I understand that they would like you to purchase something, even if it is just a coffee. But do you know where that key and its holder have been? The Ensenada 7/11 Pemex on Costero, south side at Delante has a mini bat attached to the key. hmmm

3. Papel/Paper? We carry our own toilet paper. Approx 50% of the Pemex baños are SIN papel. Toilet paper and hand towels are optional accessories, so be forwarned.

4. Clean toilets/Sanitarios Limpios? If you mention this to the Pemex "office" upon exiting your gag reflex experience, you will get the 1,000 mile stare. Apparently, attracting customers to return is not a Pemex franchise core value.

5. Clean area w/ running sink water? Ok, we're getting pickee. So many of the stations had garbage cans that looked like they had not seen attention or emptying in weeks. Pemex on north side of LaPaz attached to an OXXO on its south edge. I wanted to take a photo of the trash in both men's and women's. But, we were anxious to move on.

One exciting event was our stop to get emergency gasoline in Catavina. I have yet to find out how far the orange low gas warning light gets me on the Pontiac VIBErator. Thought I could make it to El Rosario, but, decided to stop. 55 pesos per gallon was the price and I trusted that it was not watered down.

Included in the Catavina gasoline price were the colorful outhouses. Hey, they were outhouses, so our expectations were very low and were met.

But, I finally met the character, "Gotta Peso". Except, he must have changed his marketing strategy. He consistently asked, "Hey, got one peso?". I turned on my Baja "ignore" button. I believe he asked five times, which is the magic number in most selling schools.

Three baños de Baja to enjoy: Rosarito Hwy 1, just north of the toll booth recently remodeled. You can also get coffee and a snack. This is not a Pemex stop. El Rosario Pemex may have the best. The blow dryers at El Rosario Pemex will literally knock your socks off. A third bañosworth mentioning is the Vizcaino Pemex, north side of Hwy1, just east of the Tortugas/Asuncion turnoff.

Thanks for sharing your Pemex baños experiences.

Quote:

Originally posted by bajadock

nice! way to screw up a really nice trip report!

Quote:

Originally posted by willardguy nice! way to screw up a really nice trip report!

BajaCactus?

Just kidding. Simmer down, DK.

Be it ever so humble,
there's no place like home.




[Edited on 11-5-2012 by Skipjack Joe]

Stayed at Hotel Jardines San Quintin on our rebound trip north from Cabo. Jardines has to be the best value hotel in Baja.

We took time to enjoy the garden scenery. A bonus was having Guillermo and Carmen, the owners, giving is the grand tour. Their property was once simple farmland. in 27 years, they have transformed the place into a tropical paradise in an otherwise dusty Baja town.



Carmen, Guillermo, Alfonso and staff get all of the basics right. The hotel office might measure a whopping 6 feet x 8 feet. No need for the long bank teller facade here. Check-in staff, concierge, activity desk, housekeeping and General Manager are all rolled into one little space with a desk, computer and phone.

Coffee machine is outside and is turned on by the first guest rising that morning. The restaurant doesn't open until noon, so the cafe is the tables in the garden. Wifi internet and fellow travelers' stories are your morning entertainment.

www.hotel-jardinesbaja.com/

There was a bit more activity at this spot in San Quintin than I remember from my last visit in 2006. Seems like a few more houses, more trash and more people are there.

The other thing my mind erased was the distance and washboard road that is rough on a small front wheel drive vehicle like my Vibe. It is 12 miles from Highway 1 out to this beach. Good news is that campers and explorers won't have too many crowds bothering them. My Jeep Cherokee is a much better vehicle for these spots.

Also visited the beach on the south side of San Quintin at Bahia Santa Maria. The Hotel Santa Maria looked a lot more quiet than during my 2006 visit. It was called La Pinta El Presidente back then.

Picked up a good collection of sand dollars during this visit.



Looks like not much has changed in the Pedregal development on the bay at San Quintin. I seriously considered buying a lot and building a full-time home here.

It amazes me how remote this spot is and how it would not have fit me. Sure, I'm a part-time monk and my neighbors in Punta Banda think I'm a recluse. But, I am a lot more social than most people know.

Vacation is coming to an end soon.

[Edited on 11-6-2012 by bajadock]

speaking of changes to san quintin what did you think of gulage old mill?

Not a good bet, young man! Gotta maintain my youthful figure.

LL, Golf in Cabo is spectacular, as you know. But, not in plan & budget for this trip. Copilot plays and has some talent. But, I don't pay $200+usd for golf. That is a lot of tacos, cocteles and cervezas.

Ended our Baja Adventure 2012 the way we began. Lunch was at Poco Cielo in La Mision. We are ready for a vacation from our vacation.

Did over 2,600 miles and lots of pot holes. Three notable road hazard areas were a few miles of construction at San Vicente, the road west from Vizcaino toward Tortugas/Asuncion(dangerous pot holes KIM 40-60, just east of Asuncion turnoff) and a land slide south of Todos Santos.

Missed our intended visits to Magdalena Bay, Bahia de Los Angeles and Punta Chivato.

The military check points were 50% full inspection of vehicle including documentation of my name, city of residence and "de viene/ a donde" whereabouts. They guys are gentlemen and have a terrible job. They usually spent an additional minute or two with us, as my copilot still catches the boys attention. Her fluent Spanish keeps them engaged even longer. My memory says 8 checkpoints in all if we include the one northbound after the Rosarito toll booth.

On the way south, we were reprimanded at Guerrero Negro for bringing apples, not asked for visa and charged 20 pesos for NOT spraying the famous agriculture defense spray. The 3 guys there were very chummy with us. On our northbound trip at noon, noone as at the GN checkpoint. No visa, no nada.

The Pontiac VIBErator did its job at well over 30mpg and approached its 34mpg ceiling when we weren't pushing the needle.

Lightened our load by more than 1 case of wine and several cases of Tecate, Indio, Dos Equis and Pabst. The small and large coolers also did their jobs well. Little cooler was for the portable beverage supply to accompany dinner. Big cooler saved some dining leftovers, fruits/veggies and staged each evening's happy hour with daily ice refresh.

Our stemmed crystal wine glasses made it all the way without crashing. I gave the over/under on one of those wine glasses' demise at 5 days.



Yellow butterflies were plentiful. We also had our share of hitch-hiking flies. Used a bio bug repellant to keep away mosquitoes and other flying pests. That repellant also worked well when sprayed onto tables at taco shops.



This little taqueria in South Tijuana on Free Road, Tacos La Araña, serves grand carne and adobado tacos. It is located 2 miles north of the North Rosarito exit from Hwy 1 on to the Free Road. Hours are 1:30 - 11:00, closed Monday. Dined there yesterday to confirm that no taco shop on our adventure south could match it.

Looking forward to testing the new Chaparral border crossing tonight on my way from San Diego back to Ensenada. CHEERS!


[Edited on 11-8-2012 by bajadock]

I was going through my old baja photos this evening and came across this one of the Hotel Finisterra and thought of Doc's post and how difficult it was for him to locate the hotel. It wasn't such an understatement back in 1983. The Finisterra was the only thing there. I bet that 8" sign was big enough back then. Maybe it's time to upgrade?



P>*)))>{

Paulina, HPBD and thanks for photo of Hotel Finisterra 30 years ago. Love then and now pix.



Though I am approx 90 degrees here from your photo's viewpoint, the "Whale Watcher" bar can still be seen. Met cruise types who were re-living memories of the WW bar from 20 years ago and they told us that the new hotel on south side of street did not exist then.



This photo is from hotel room to beach over the 3 terraces of pools.

This would be a fun place to show up today in early 70's garb with VW flower van and ask "Where do we camp on the beach?".