BajaNomad

Surfing. (everywhere)

Cisco - 3-20-2016 at 08:32 PM


http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1992/08/24/playing-docs-ga...



8knots - 3-22-2016 at 06:37 AM

One of the best surf articles every written about a fascinating surfer. Fullers crew....yikes! True thugs that have kept a world class wave to themselves.

DanO - 3-22-2016 at 01:30 PM

Wow, what a phenomenal piece of writing. Part 2 is linked at the bottom.

[Edited on 3-22-2016 by DanO]

Cisco - 3-22-2016 at 01:36 PM

Quote: Originally posted by DanO  
Wow, what a phenomenal piece of writing. Part 2 is linked at the bottom.

[Edited on 3-22-2016 by DanO]



Here is part two if you can't bring it up:

http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1992/08/31/playing-docs-ga...

and here is his younger Hawaiian episode.

http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/06/01/off-diamond-hea...


vandenberg - 3-22-2016 at 02:26 PM

Went fishing many times out of Fishermen's wharf and the "Potato Patch", just outside the Gate, is scary, even seeing it from a 60 ft boat.

pappy - 3-23-2016 at 10:08 AM

This is from his book the author wrote his name is William finnegan. Really interesting actually. The title is something like a renegade life.

pappy - 3-23-2016 at 10:10 AM

This is from his book the author wrote his name is William finnegan. Really interesting actually. The title is something like a renegade life.

Cisco - 3-23-2016 at 01:02 PM


Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Book by William Finnegan

Originally published: July 21, 2015

Sunman - 3-23-2016 at 02:43 PM

Probably the most well written book on the subject of surfing ever.