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Author: Subject: Surfing. (everywhere)
Cisco
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[*] posted on 3-20-2016 at 08:32 PM
Surfing. (everywhere)



http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1992/08/24/playing-docs-ga...


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8knots
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[*] posted on 3-22-2016 at 06:37 AM


One of the best surf articles every written about a fascinating surfer. Fullers crew....yikes! True thugs that have kept a world class wave to themselves.
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DanO
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[*] posted on 3-22-2016 at 01:30 PM


Wow, what a phenomenal piece of writing. Part 2 is linked at the bottom.

[Edited on 3-22-2016 by DanO]




\"Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.\" -- Frank Zappa
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Cisco
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[*] posted on 3-22-2016 at 01:36 PM


Quote: Originally posted by DanO  
Wow, what a phenomenal piece of writing. Part 2 is linked at the bottom.

[Edited on 3-22-2016 by DanO]



Here is part two if you can't bring it up:

http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/1992/08/31/playing-docs-ga...

and here is his younger Hawaiian episode.

http://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/06/01/off-diamond-hea...

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vandenberg
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Mood: mellow

[*] posted on 3-22-2016 at 02:26 PM


Went fishing many times out of Fishermen's wharf and the "Potato Patch", just outside the Gate, is scary, even seeing it from a 60 ft boat.



I think my photographic memory ran out of film


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pappy
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[*] posted on 3-23-2016 at 10:08 AM


This is from his book the author wrote his name is William finnegan. Really interesting actually. The title is something like a renegade life.
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pappy
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[*] posted on 3-23-2016 at 10:10 AM


This is from his book the author wrote his name is William finnegan. Really interesting actually. The title is something like a renegade life.
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Cisco
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[*] posted on 3-23-2016 at 01:02 PM



Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

Book by William Finnegan

Originally published: July 21, 2015
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Sunman
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[*] posted on 3-23-2016 at 02:43 PM


Probably the most well written book on the subject of surfing ever.
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