BajaNomad

Baja trip

diverdown7105 - 8-14-2020 at 06:28 PM

Hello everyone, my wife and I are planning a road trip through Baja next February for approx. 11 days. The main purpose of the trip is to see the gray whales in Guerrero Negro and whale sharks in La Paz. We have been to San Felipe several times since our friends have a vacation house there but we’ve never ventured beyond Puertocitos. I understand the highway from San Felipe going South is now paved so we wouldn’t be driving on dirt roads. Our friends told us in the past they would take extra gas cans to drive to Guerrero Negro but it is no longer necessary, but its best to fill up whenever you pass a gas station to be safe.

Here is our itinerary: Day 1 - Drive to Mexicali then to San Felipe. Day 2 - Drive to Guerrero Negro. Day 3 - See the gray whales. Day 4 - Drive to Loreto and stop at Santa Rosalia and Mulege on the way. Day 5 - Drive to La Paz. Day 6 - See the whale sharks. Day 7 & 8 - Fishing in La Paz. Day 9 - Go to a beach and explore La Paz. Day 10 - drive back to Guerrero Negro. Day 11 - Drive to Mexicali then cross the border and head home.

Does this itinerary sound reasonable or should we take a little longer making our way South? I’m thinking we should take 2 days to get from San Felipe to Guerrero Negro. I have plenty of vacation time and my wife is retired so we can take longer if needed. We also want to take our time to stop and look at points of interests. Any suggestions on hotels, restaurants or points of interest will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Welcome to the forum!

AKgringo - 8-15-2020 at 07:46 AM

I am surprised there have not been some suggestions posted already! I may be of some help, but I gave up traveling according to a schedule years ago.

I travel alone, except for a big dog, and tend to avoid many of the things you are looking for. I am sure that if you spend more time along the way, you will not regret it.

It remains to be seen what the Covid19 situation will be by February, but for now, beaches are still closed in many areas. I am not down there to report on the enforcement efforts, but I try to play by the rules. I would also hate to get sick while I am on a solo trip with a dog!

If you are driving a fairly rugged vehicle and are comfortable on back roads, many options open for you! Also, you should consider San Ignacio rather than Guerrero Negro for at least one of your stops.

I hope some useful suggestions come your way!

David K - 8-15-2020 at 08:09 AM

I suggest reading the Trip Reports forum and the Q & A forum here on Nomad, as this kind of question is real common. We are happy to help, but we need more details to give you the best advice.

For starters, what are you driving? Your dislike of dirt roads is not a good hint. The dirt roads of Baja are what take you to some interesting places. However, more and more Baja is connected by the black devil of pavement.

Do not pass by San Ignacio without taking the short (paved) road to the town plaza. That alone is one of the best experiences you can have in Baja! San Ignacio is between Guerrero Negro and Santa Rosalia. A gray whale skeleton marks the side road into town.

I am the mission history nut here, I have a book I will recommend if you are interested in points of interest... my website is filled with links, maps, photos of Baja: www.vivabaja.com (my book is there, too).

After San Ignacio, the oasis (and mission) town of Mulegé will catch your eye. It is known as the Hawaii of Baja.

South of Mulegé is the huge and beautiful bay of Concepción. Many beach camps as well as a boutique hotel owned by Baja Nomads Bob & Susan: www.mulege.org

It's a bit of a drive on to Loreto, but that is where California began, with the first of 48 missions, in 1697!

La Paz is a L-O-N-G and very boring drive beyond Loreto. You might find enough excitement without going that extra leg south? Just let us know what you think after you have done some more research in the two Nomad forums I mentioned above.

The road conditions forum is where you will find two of 6 sections of a Baja road guide I made plus my 30 maps for the guide are in another post. The entire guide was to be published by June, but Covid-19 killed that date!

SFandH - 8-15-2020 at 09:08 AM

That's a quick trip. You mentioned you have more time "if needed".

Why not take more time if you have it?

Your plan has a large percentage of your waking hours in the car. I'm estimating 40 to 45 hours driving. And yes, before others jump on me, I know it can be done somewhat faster.


[Edited on 8-15-2020 by SFandH]

BajaMama - 8-15-2020 at 10:19 AM

To add on to David's post, you may be able to see whalesharks at BOLA. San Ignacio is a fabulous stop, there is gray whale watching there, too. We stayed at Kuyima just before Covid hit the fan (literally, the world shut down when we got home).

diverdown7105 - 8-15-2020 at 10:47 AM

AKgringo, the covid virus is definitely on our minds but we're hopeful things will be back to normal by then. When we make reservations I'll ask about refunds instead of credits, I already have credits with an airline and don't need any more. The reason we planned on staying at Guerrero Negro was to see the gray whales but I can add San Ignacio to the list!

DavidK, we will will driving her Toyota Highlander AWD so we'd like to stay on pavement or graded roads. A big factor in our trip is that my wife is slightly handicapped (hip and knee replacements) so I want her to be comfortable. No rough roads or strenuous hiking for her. She prefers to walk around small towns and easy access beaches. Unfortunately much of the info. on this forum discusses off road adventures but we just can't enjoy those experiences.

San Ignacio sounds great, we'll definitely stop there! I'm going to adjust the itinerary to include it. We both love the historic sites such as missions so we'll keep that in mind.

Our friends have also suggested Mulege and Bay of Conception, and they recommended Eiffel's church in Santa Rosalia. I'll look into Bob & Susan's hotel also.

The reason we want to go to La Paz is twofold: 1. We want to see the whale sharks and 2. Our friends who own the vacation house in San Felipe have retired on a sailboat in the Sea of Cortez and will meet us in La Paz. We plan on seeing the whale sharks and fishing together for several days.

FYI, i found this forum after seeing your posts on Tacomaworld. If I'm not mistaken, your company sells car insurance for Mexico? If so, I'll be contacting you once we get closer to February for the insurance.

SFandH, we have more time but my wife prefers to keep our vacations to around 2 weeks (she misses her own bed). I don't mind longer vacations because I eventually have to go back to work, she doesn't lol. After reading the suggestions here, I'm sure we'll be extending this trip at least several days. It is a lot of driving time but she likes a mix of driving and walking.

Thanks everyone for the information!

thebajarunner - 8-15-2020 at 11:23 AM

Best whales- San Ignacio by a large margin, "Home of the friendly whales"
The whale lagoon is not far from the town itself, and I am hearing mostly paved now. It was not on all of my visits, but not a bad dirt road.
Lagoon is a far different experience from the town, the church, etc.

Whale sharks in LABay in February? Not likely.
I have spent a lot of Februarys in LABay and they all talk about the whale sharks being a hot summer item.

One day drive from San Felipe to GN???? Absolutely, more like a half day drive, but lots to see along the way, so don't hurry.

Insurance is great with "Bajabound" (No relationship to this site)
Geoff is very very good at making it simple and reasonable.

David K - 8-15-2020 at 11:33 AM

Several of us Nomads are also on Tacoma World forums, maybe not a lot of the time lately... Tacoma World is viewed all over North America, so Baja discussion is not as highly involved there. Pretty minor actually. Having a Toyota does mean you have one of the most reliable vehicles for Baja travel, so you are good. The AWD will help a lot if you get into a soft sand situation. A trick, if you do get stuck in sand, is to drop the air pressure in all 4 tires (15 psi is typical). An electric tire pump is a critical addition to your travels in Baja, to refill the tires once you are out of the sand. A plug kit to fix flats is also a plus.

The sponsor of Baja Nomad (and other Baja sites) is Baja Bound Insurance. The owner is a Nomad: 'Baja Geoff' and he drives a Tundra, so I don't think he is on Tacoma World? They do sell the top-rated brand of Mexican Auto insurance and you do all the purchasing online and print the policy at home. I write for their monthly newsletter, as do a few others. You can gleen a lot of Baja travel and history data from my articles... except for the current month, they are available to view at https://www.bajabound.com/bajaadventures/bajatravel/

4x4abc - 8-16-2020 at 01:39 AM

getting to the whales in Guerrero Negro as well as in San Ignacio involves driving on dirt roads. However, tour operators in both places will take you where you need to go. Whale sharks in Bahia de los Angeles from July to November. In La Paz October to April.
Mulege is a charming, but dirty little place. Hawaii? Wow!

diverdown7105 - 8-16-2020 at 08:57 AM

Bajarunner, I hadn't considered San Ignacio for the gray whales. We can see the whales and the historic town at the same time so it sounds like a no brainer.

4x4abc, my wife should be ok with the dirt roads to see the whales, we're just trying to keep it to a minimum. We have some friends who race in Baja and they highly recommended seeing La Paz so it works out to see the whale sharks while we're there. Thanks!

surfhat - 8-16-2020 at 09:46 AM

Every day you don't spend on the road getting to the next destination, is what going in the first place is all about.

Try to plan as many of those days as you can. You will not regret it, even if some stops may not be possible.

You sound like you have the time. Try to spend as much time as you can simply enjoying your surroundings and the salt of the earth locals.

The journey is most of the trip. Learning to change that dynamic is the hard part.

The more 'chill' days you create, will pay dividends over being on the road most of the time.

Happy and safe travels if, and ultimately when, if is safe again.

Peace, love and fish tacos.

Lee - 8-16-2020 at 09:59 AM

On subject, your itinerary looks fine. Driving the road is part of the experience, esp. first time down. I like 6 hour days, personally. Go with shari for whales in GN. Nothing wrong with touching whales. I think they like it. They wouldn't come around otherwise.

Be cautious about getting sick SOB. A bucket list with Baja on it is a great thing.

diverdown7105 - 8-16-2020 at 12:21 PM

Quote: Originally posted by surfhat  
Every day you don't spend on the road getting to the next destination, is what going in the first place is all about.

Try to plan as many of those days as you can. You will not regret it, even if some stops may not be possible.

You sound like you have the time. Try to spend as much time as you can simply enjoying your surroundings and the salt of the earth locals.

The journey is most of the trip. Learning to change that dynamic is the hard part.

The more 'chill' days you create, will pay dividends over being on the road most of the time.

Happy and safe travels if, and ultimately when, if is safe again.

Peace, love and fish tacos.



Very true, especially the part about the locals. We've been to many parts of Mexico and they are wonderful people, its part of the reason we're doing this trip.

diverdown7105 - 8-16-2020 at 12:24 PM

Quote: Originally posted by Lee  
On subject, your itinerary looks fine. Driving the road is part of the experience, esp. first time down. I like 6 hour days, personally. Go with shari for whales in GN. Nothing wrong with touching whales. I think they like it. They wouldn't come around otherwise.

Be cautious about getting sick SOB. A bucket list with Baja on it is a great thing.


Thanks for the info.

elgatoloco - 8-16-2020 at 06:14 PM

If I was retired I would take (all the) extra time (I had) and see whales in Scammons and San Ignacio. For us being on the water in the presence of the whales never gets old. Stay in San Ignacio town at least 2-3 nights and go out to lagoon twice weather permitting. Watch evening turn to night on a plaza bench as therapy. Take better part of a week to get from SI to La Paz, which is our favorite 'big' city on the peninsula and well worth the trip, and then another week to get back. That's what I would do if retired.

We got in the water with whale sharks on our October honeymoon some years ago and its one of our fondest memories. You will just have to go back in the fall.

BajaDanD - 8-16-2020 at 10:12 PM

We've made the drive to see the whales at least a dozen times if not more
Even when the road from Gonzaga was dirt it was still an easy drive to Guerrero Negro and no need to stop along the way for the night. UNLESS we wanted to go to Bay of LA but not much really happening there in Feb. though. It is a beautiful place and a must see if you have the time.
Your trip sounds like a fun 9 day trip. Very doable. I know, because I do at least three 9 day trips to Baja every year. And a few 4 or 5 day trips as well. I like to drive long road trips.
We try not to have our trip plans too set in stone. So we can do some exploring when we see something that peaks our interest. Or we might decide to just chill somewhere a day or two longer and make some new friends.

BajaBlanca - 8-17-2020 at 03:29 AM

All I have to add is that you are going to love this trip! The whales are amazing. The whale sharks in La Paz was hard for me, the water was cold, it was windy and one has to be comfortable with a snorkel (I am not) and a fast swimmer (I am not). But they are huge and it was incredible to be so close to them.

The most important stop for gas is EL ROSARIO. One must fill up there!

If you can, stop by Mama Espinoza's restaurant even if just for a cup of coffee because the items they have inside are mind boggling. It has so much history.

I happened on this write up of the trip south and it is really good!


https://indianajo.com/baja-california-road-trip-itinerary-me...




BajaBlanca - 8-17-2020 at 04:53 AM

Same woman wrote about her whale shark experience and I have to agree with her:


https://indianajo.com/swimming-with-whale-sharks-in-mexico.h...

JZ - 8-17-2020 at 05:11 AM

In Loreto stay at La Mision or the Oasis.

Be sure to see San Javier in Loreto. Most beautiful mission in Baja. Paved road to it.

For about 1,700 pesos a panga will take you out to Isla Coronado. This is a must see.

The islands around La Paz are breathtaking. The last one has hundreds of sea loins.

Stop at Bahia de Los Angeles on the way back. Costa del Sol is the best hotel there.

Show your wife this video to get her excited: https://youtu.be/4VNTIhRa6q0




[Edited on 8-17-2020 by JZ]

diverdown7105 - 8-17-2020 at 09:51 PM

Quote: Originally posted by elgatoloco  
If I was retired I would take (all the) extra time (I had) and see whales in Scammons and San Ignacio. For us being on the water in the presence of the whales never gets old. Stay in San Ignacio town at least 2-3 nights and go out to lagoon twice weather permitting. Watch evening turn to night on a plaza bench as therapy. Take better part of a week to get from SI to La Paz, which is our favorite 'big' city on the peninsula and well worth the trip, and then another week to get back. That's what I would do if retired.

We got in the water with whale sharks on our October honeymoon some years ago and its one of our fondest memories. You will just have to go back in the fall.


That's another vote for San Ignacio. Thanks for the info.

diverdown7105 - 8-17-2020 at 10:11 PM

Quote: Originally posted by BajaBlanca  
All I have to add is that you are going to love this trip! The whales are amazing. The whale sharks in La Paz was hard for me, the water was cold, it was windy and one has to be comfortable with a snorkel (I am not) and a fast swimmer (I am not). But they are huge and it was incredible to be so close to them.

The most important stop for gas is EL ROSARIO. One must fill up there!

If you can, stop by Mama Espinoza's restaurant even if just for a cup of coffee because the items they have inside are mind boggling. It has so much history.

I happened on this write up of the trip south and it is really good!


https://indianajo.com/baja-california-road-trip-itinerary-me...






Whale sharks are the one thing we didn't get to see on our bucket list when we were scuba diving. So we had to decide between Cancun and La Paz to snorkel with them and the choice was easy, La Paz. We plan on bringing our 7 mil wetsuits since the water will be cold.

The trip write up was a great read!

diverdown7105 - 8-17-2020 at 10:23 PM

Quote: Originally posted by JZ  
In Loreto stay at La Mision or the Oasis.

Be sure to see San Javier in Loreto. Most beautiful mission in Baja. Paved road to it.

For about 1,700 pesos a panga will take you out to Isla Coronado. This is a must see.

The islands around La Paz are breathtaking. The last one has hundreds of sea loins.

Stop at Bahia de Los Angeles on the way back. Costa del Sol is the best hotel there.

Show your wife this video to get her excited: https://youtu.be/4VNTIhRa6q0




[Edited on 8-17-2020 by JZ]


Great info. on Loreto, we'll check out the mission.

Your videos are top notch. That has to be some of the best riding anywhere right in our backyard. Funny thing, i have several coworkers who take their Razors all over So Cal, but they are terrified of going to Baja. Their exact words were "f*** no I'm not crossing the border".

David K - 8-18-2020 at 07:24 AM

To clarify JZ's great advice; San Javier mission is not in Loreto but 21 paved miles to the west of Loreto, up in the mountains. It is extremely beautiful and an original 1700's Jesuit church, and California's second mission, founded in 1699. The first mission is in Loreto, 1697. There is a museum at the Loreto mission, as well.
Plenty more mission history posted on Nomad, on my Facebook group, and in my book.
Happy to answer questions, too!

diverdown7105 - 8-18-2020 at 09:02 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
To clarify JZ's great advice; San Javier mission is not in Loreto but 21 paved miles to the west of Loreto, up in the mountains. It is extremely beautiful and an original 1700's Jesuit church, and California's second mission, founded in 1699. The first mission is in Loreto, 1697. There is a museum at the Loreto mission, as well.
Plenty more mission history posted on Nomad, on my Facebook group, and in my book.
Happy to answer questions, too!


Thanks for the clarification. My wife joined your facebook group recently to see the missions.

Based on your experience, do you think Google drive times are fairly accurate? For example, it says San Felipe to Guerrero Negro is 7 hrs. and Loreto to La Paz is 4 hrs. I'm wondering if they take into account slow trucks, detours, checkpoints, etc. and if I should pad the drive times.

David K - 8-18-2020 at 09:17 PM

I use an average speed of 50 mph to estimate drive times, that include photo, gasoline, & pee stops, as well as checkpoints. 300 miles = 6 hours. You probably will do it in 5 hours, but for planning purposes it is safe to use the 50 mph avg. Motor homes or towing, 40 mph.

diverdown7105 - 8-19-2020 at 06:45 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
I use an average speed of 50 mph to estimate drive times, that include photo, gasoline, & pee stops, as well as checkpoints. 300 miles = 6 hours. You probably will do it in 5 hours, but for planning purposes it is safe to use the 50 mph avg. Motor homes or towing, 40 mph.


Understood, thanks.

amigobaja - 8-21-2020 at 07:18 AM

I have done both Guererro Negro and San Ignacio many times for whale trips and I would really recommend San Ignacio. Since I'm told the trip pricing is regulated by the Govt. generally it doesn't matter which tour operater you go out with. I learned long ago at San Ignacio to drive out to the lagoon and hang a left four to five miles then start checking the operators for trips that are not full. I have even waited a couple hours to get on a boat that was not crowded. Only one time have I been on a boat with more then 5 people and three times there was only two on the boat. Way better experience being able to move around the boat freely.Worth every penny of larger Pangaro's tip.

JZ - 8-22-2020 at 03:53 PM

Quote: Originally posted by amigobaja  
I have done both Guererro Negro and San Ignacio many times for whale trips and I would really recommend San Ignacio. Since I'm told the trip pricing is regulated by the Govt. generally it doesn't matter which tour operater you go out with. I learned long ago at San Ignacio to drive out to the lagoon and hang a left four to five miles then start checking the operators for trips that are not full. I have even waited a couple hours to get on a boat that was not crowded. Only one time have I been on a boat with more then 5 people and three times there was only two on the boat. Way better experience being able to move around the boat freely.Worth every penny of larger Pangaro's tip.


Good advice.

diverdown7105 - 8-23-2020 at 11:18 AM

Quote: Originally posted by amigobaja  
I have done both Guererro Negro and San Ignacio many times for whale trips and I would really recommend San Ignacio. Since I'm told the trip pricing is regulated by the Govt. generally it doesn't matter which tour operater you go out with. I learned long ago at San Ignacio to drive out to the lagoon and hang a left four to five miles then start checking the operators for trips that are not full. I have even waited a couple hours to get on a boat that was not crowded. Only one time have I been on a boat with more then 5 people and three times there was only two on the boat. Way better experience being able to move around the boat freely.Worth every penny of larger Pangaro's tip.


That's an interesting method, thank you.

defrag4 - 8-23-2020 at 02:57 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
To clarify JZ's great advice; San Javier mission is not in Loreto but 21 paved miles to the west of Loreto, up in the mountains. It is extremely beautiful and an original 1700's Jesuit church, and California's second mission, founded in 1699. The first mission is in Loreto, 1697. There is a museum at the Loreto mission, as well.
Plenty more mission history posted on Nomad, on my Facebook group, and in my book.
Happy to answer questions, too!


just a heads up the mission is currently closed for corona, you can still see outside and take pics but the interior is locked up

Constructed in the 1750s at California's Second Mission, founded in 1699

David K - 8-23-2020 at 04:23 PM

Thanks for that bit of news...

Here is what you would miss, inside:















outside:







JZ - 8-23-2020 at 04:57 PM

Even seeing the outside is worth it. Fun little trip out there. Some good views.

msteve1014 - 8-24-2020 at 10:07 AM

San Javier is definitely worth the trip. I was there last year for the fiesta, what a blast. I'm sure this year will not be the same.:(

David K - 8-24-2020 at 10:36 AM

Do walk on past the mission to see the back side and on to the pila (reservoir) and the famous giant olive tree.

Take lightly stories you hear about the age of the tree or the stained glass in the church. While the mission was established in 1699, it wasn't established here... but 5 miles north at Rancho Viejo.

The mission moved to this location around 1710 and the massive stone church was not constructed until the years 1744 to 1758.









diverdown7105 - 8-25-2020 at 05:17 PM

Quote: Originally posted by defrag4  
Quote: Originally posted by David K  
To clarify JZ's great advice; San Javier mission is not in Loreto but 21 paved miles to the west of Loreto, up in the mountains. It is extremely beautiful and an original 1700's Jesuit church, and California's second mission, founded in 1699. The first mission is in Loreto, 1697. There is a museum at the Loreto mission, as well.
Plenty more mission history posted on Nomad, on my Facebook group, and in my book.
Happy to answer questions, too!


just a heads up the mission is currently closed for corona, you can still see outside and take pics but the interior is locked up


We've been watching this also. We decided we will postpone the trip unless everything is open and the virus is under control.

diverdown7105 - 8-25-2020 at 06:02 PM

Quote: Originally posted by David K  
Thanks for that bit of news...

Here is what you would miss, inside:















outside:









What a beautiful mission. Its amazing this mission is as old as our country.