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diverdown7105
Newbie
Posts: 13
Registered: 8-12-2020
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Baja trip
Hello everyone, my wife and I are planning a road trip through Baja next February for approx. 11 days. The main purpose of the trip is to see the gray
whales in Guerrero Negro and whale sharks in La Paz. We have been to San Felipe several times since our friends have a vacation house there but
we’ve never ventured beyond Puertocitos. I understand the highway from San Felipe going South is now paved so we wouldn’t be driving on dirt
roads. Our friends told us in the past they would take extra gas cans to drive to Guerrero Negro but it is no longer necessary, but its best to fill
up whenever you pass a gas station to be safe.
Here is our itinerary: Day 1 - Drive to Mexicali then to San Felipe. Day 2 - Drive to Guerrero Negro. Day 3 - See the gray whales. Day 4 - Drive to
Loreto and stop at Santa Rosalia and Mulege on the way. Day 5 - Drive to La Paz. Day 6 - See the whale sharks. Day 7 & 8 - Fishing in La Paz. Day
9 - Go to a beach and explore La Paz. Day 10 - drive back to Guerrero Negro. Day 11 - Drive to Mexicali then cross the border and head home.
Does this itinerary sound reasonable or should we take a little longer making our way South? I’m thinking we should take 2 days to get from San
Felipe to Guerrero Negro. I have plenty of vacation time and my wife is retired so we can take longer if needed. We also want to take our time to stop
and look at points of interests. Any suggestions on hotels, restaurants or points of interest will be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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AKgringo
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5921
Registered: 9-20-2014
Location: Anchorage, AK (no mas!)
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Mood: Retireded
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Welcome to the forum!
I am surprised there have not been some suggestions posted already! I may be of some help, but I gave up traveling according to a schedule years ago.
I travel alone, except for a big dog, and tend to avoid many of the things you are looking for. I am sure that if you spend more time along the way,
you will not regret it.
It remains to be seen what the Covid19 situation will be by February, but for now, beaches are still closed in many areas. I am not down there to
report on the enforcement efforts, but I try to play by the rules. I would also hate to get sick while I am on a solo trip with a dog!
If you are driving a fairly rugged vehicle and are comfortable on back roads, many options open for you! Also, you should consider San Ignacio rather
than Guerrero Negro for at least one of your stops.
I hope some useful suggestions come your way!
If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space!
"Could do better if he tried!" Report card comments from most of my grade school teachers. Sadly, still true!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64595
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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I suggest reading the Trip Reports forum and the Q & A forum here on Nomad, as this kind of question is real common. We are happy to help, but we
need more details to give you the best advice.
For starters, what are you driving? Your dislike of dirt roads is not a good hint. The dirt roads of Baja are what take you to some interesting
places. However, more and more Baja is connected by the black devil of pavement.
Do not pass by San Ignacio without taking the short (paved) road to the town plaza. That alone is one of the best experiences you can have in Baja!
San Ignacio is between Guerrero Negro and Santa Rosalia. A gray whale skeleton marks the side road into town.
I am the mission history nut here, I have a book I will recommend if you are interested in points of interest... my website is filled with links,
maps, photos of Baja: www.vivabaja.com (my book is there, too).
After San Ignacio, the oasis (and mission) town of Mulegé will catch your eye. It is known as the Hawaii of Baja.
South of Mulegé is the huge and beautiful bay of Concepción. Many beach camps as well as a boutique hotel owned by Baja Nomads Bob & Susan: www.mulege.org
It's a bit of a drive on to Loreto, but that is where California began, with the first of 48 missions, in 1697!
La Paz is a L-O-N-G and very boring drive beyond Loreto. You might find enough excitement without going that extra leg south? Just let us know what
you think after you have done some more research in the two Nomad forums I mentioned above.
The road conditions forum is where you will find two of 6 sections of a Baja road guide I made plus my 30 maps for the guide are in another post. The
entire guide was to be published by June, but Covid-19 killed that date!
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SFandH
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6987
Registered: 8-5-2011
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That's a quick trip. You mentioned you have more time "if needed".
Why not take more time if you have it?
Your plan has a large percentage of your waking hours in the car. I'm estimating 40 to 45 hours driving. And yes, before others jump on me, I know it
can be done somewhat faster.
[Edited on 8-15-2020 by SFandH]
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BajaMama
Super Nomad
Posts: 1107
Registered: 10-4-2015
Location: Pleasanton/Punta Chivato
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Mood: Got Baja fever!!
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To add on to David's post, you may be able to see whalesharks at BOLA. San Ignacio is a fabulous stop, there is gray whale watching there, too. We
stayed at Kuyima just before Covid hit the fan (literally, the world shut down when we got home).
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diverdown7105
Newbie
Posts: 13
Registered: 8-12-2020
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AKgringo, the covid virus is definitely on our minds but we're hopeful things will be back to normal by then. When we make reservations I'll ask about
refunds instead of credits, I already have credits with an airline and don't need any more. The reason we planned on staying at Guerrero Negro was to
see the gray whales but I can add San Ignacio to the list!
DavidK, we will will driving her Toyota Highlander AWD so we'd like to stay on pavement or graded roads. A big factor in our trip is that my wife is
slightly handicapped (hip and knee replacements) so I want her to be comfortable. No rough roads or strenuous hiking for her. She prefers to walk
around small towns and easy access beaches. Unfortunately much of the info. on this forum discusses off road adventures but we just can't enjoy those
experiences.
San Ignacio sounds great, we'll definitely stop there! I'm going to adjust the itinerary to include it. We both love the historic sites such as
missions so we'll keep that in mind.
Our friends have also suggested Mulege and Bay of Conception, and they recommended Eiffel's church in Santa Rosalia. I'll look into Bob & Susan's
hotel also.
The reason we want to go to La Paz is twofold: 1. We want to see the whale sharks and 2. Our friends who own the vacation house in San Felipe have
retired on a sailboat in the Sea of Cortez and will meet us in La Paz. We plan on seeing the whale sharks and fishing together for several days.
FYI, i found this forum after seeing your posts on Tacomaworld. If I'm not mistaken, your company sells car insurance for Mexico? If so, I'll be
contacting you once we get closer to February for the insurance.
SFandH, we have more time but my wife prefers to keep our vacations to around 2 weeks (she misses her own bed). I don't mind longer vacations because
I eventually have to go back to work, she doesn't lol. After reading the suggestions here, I'm sure we'll be extending this trip at least several
days. It is a lot of driving time but she likes a mix of driving and walking.
Thanks everyone for the information!
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thebajarunner
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3696
Registered: 9-8-2003
Location: Arizona....."Free at last from crumbling Cali
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Mood: muy amable
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Best whales- San Ignacio by a large margin, "Home of the friendly whales"
The whale lagoon is not far from the town itself, and I am hearing mostly paved now. It was not on all of my visits, but not a bad dirt road.
Lagoon is a far different experience from the town, the church, etc.
Whale sharks in LABay in February? Not likely.
I have spent a lot of Februarys in LABay and they all talk about the whale sharks being a hot summer item.
One day drive from San Felipe to GN???? Absolutely, more like a half day drive, but lots to see along the way, so don't hurry.
Insurance is great with "Bajabound" (No relationship to this site)
Geoff is very very good at making it simple and reasonable.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64595
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Several of us Nomads are also on Tacoma World forums, maybe not a lot of the time lately... Tacoma World is viewed all over North America, so Baja
discussion is not as highly involved there. Pretty minor actually. Having a Toyota does mean you have one of the most reliable vehicles for Baja
travel, so you are good. The AWD will help a lot if you get into a soft sand situation. A trick, if you do get stuck in sand, is to drop the air
pressure in all 4 tires (15 psi is typical). An electric tire pump is a critical addition to your travels in Baja, to refill the tires once you are
out of the sand. A plug kit to fix flats is also a plus.
The sponsor of Baja Nomad (and other Baja sites) is Baja Bound Insurance. The owner is a Nomad: 'Baja Geoff' and he drives a Tundra, so I don't think
he is on Tacoma World? They do sell the top-rated brand of Mexican Auto insurance and you do all the purchasing online and print the policy at home. I
write for their monthly newsletter, as do a few others. You can gleen a lot of Baja travel and history data from my articles... except for the current
month, they are available to view at https://www.bajabound.com/bajaadventures/bajatravel/
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4x4abc
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4219
Registered: 4-24-2009
Location: La Paz, BCS
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Mood: happy - always
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getting to the whales in Guerrero Negro as well as in San Ignacio involves driving on dirt roads. However, tour operators in both places will take you
where you need to go. Whale sharks in Bahia de los Angeles from July to November. In La Paz October to April.
Mulege is a charming, but dirty little place. Hawaii? Wow!
Harald Pietschmann
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diverdown7105
Newbie
Posts: 13
Registered: 8-12-2020
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Bajarunner, I hadn't considered San Ignacio for the gray whales. We can see the whales and the historic town at the same time so it sounds like a no
brainer.
4x4abc, my wife should be ok with the dirt roads to see the whales, we're just trying to keep it to a minimum. We have some friends who race in Baja
and they highly recommended seeing La Paz so it works out to see the whale sharks while we're there. Thanks!
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surfhat
Senior Nomad
Posts: 509
Registered: 6-4-2012
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Every day you don't spend on the road getting to the next destination, is what going in the first place is all about.
Try to plan as many of those days as you can. You will not regret it, even if some stops may not be possible.
You sound like you have the time. Try to spend as much time as you can simply enjoying your surroundings and the salt of the earth locals.
The journey is most of the trip. Learning to change that dynamic is the hard part.
The more 'chill' days you create, will pay dividends over being on the road most of the time.
Happy and safe travels if, and ultimately when, if is safe again.
Peace, love and fish tacos.
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Lee
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3480
Registered: 10-2-2006
Location: High in the Colorado Rockies
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On subject, your itinerary looks fine. Driving the road is part of the experience, esp. first time down. I like 6 hour days, personally. Go
with shari for whales in GN. Nothing wrong with touching whales. I think they like it. They wouldn't come around otherwise.
Be cautious about getting sick SOB. A bucket list with Baja on it is a great thing.
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
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diverdown7105
Newbie
Posts: 13
Registered: 8-12-2020
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Quote: Originally posted by surfhat  | Every day you don't spend on the road getting to the next destination, is what going in the first place is all about.
Try to plan as many of those days as you can. You will not regret it, even if some stops may not be possible.
You sound like you have the time. Try to spend as much time as you can simply enjoying your surroundings and the salt of the earth locals.
The journey is most of the trip. Learning to change that dynamic is the hard part.
The more 'chill' days you create, will pay dividends over being on the road most of the time.
Happy and safe travels if, and ultimately when, if is safe again.
Peace, love and fish tacos.
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Very true, especially the part about the locals. We've been to many parts of Mexico and they are wonderful people, its part of the reason we're doing
this trip.
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diverdown7105
Newbie
Posts: 13
Registered: 8-12-2020
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| Quote: Originally posted by Lee | On subject, your itinerary looks fine. Driving the road is part of the experience, esp. first time down. I like 6 hour days, personally. Go
with shari for whales in GN. Nothing wrong with touching whales. I think they like it. They wouldn't come around otherwise.
Be cautious about getting sick SOB. A bucket list with Baja on it is a great thing. |
Thanks for the info.
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elgatoloco
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4328
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Location: Yes
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If I was retired I would take (all the) extra time (I had) and see whales in Scammons and San Ignacio. For us being on the water in the presence of
the whales never gets old. Stay in San Ignacio town at least 2-3 nights and go out to lagoon twice weather permitting. Watch evening turn to night on
a plaza bench as therapy. Take better part of a week to get from SI to La Paz, which is our favorite 'big' city on the peninsula and well worth the
trip, and then another week to get back. That's what I would do if retired.
We got in the water with whale sharks on our October honeymoon some years ago and its one of our fondest memories. You will just have to go back in
the fall.
MAGA
Making Attorneys Get Attorneys
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BajaDanD
Senior Nomad
Posts: 745
Registered: 8-30-2003
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We've made the drive to see the whales at least a dozen times if not more
Even when the road from Gonzaga was dirt it was still an easy drive to Guerrero Negro and no need to stop along the way for the night. UNLESS we
wanted to go to Bay of LA but not much really happening there in Feb. though. It is a beautiful place and a must see if you have the time.
Your trip sounds like a fun 9 day trip. Very doable. I know, because I do at least three 9 day trips to Baja every year. And a few 4 or 5 day trips
as well. I like to drive long road trips.
We try not to have our trip plans too set in stone. So we can do some exploring when we see something that peaks our interest. Or we might decide to
just chill somewhere a day or two longer and make some new friends.
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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
Posts: 13172
Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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All I have to add is that you are going to love this trip! The whales are amazing. The whale sharks in La Paz was hard for me, the water was cold,
it was windy and one has to be comfortable with a snorkel (I am not) and a fast swimmer (I am not). But they are huge and it was incredible to be so
close to them.
The most important stop for gas is EL ROSARIO. One must fill up there!
If you can, stop by Mama Espinoza's restaurant even if just for a cup of coffee because the items they have inside are mind boggling. It has so much
history.
I happened on this write up of the trip south and it is really good!
https://indianajo.com/baja-california-road-trip-itinerary-me...
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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
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Location: La Bocana, BCS
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Same woman wrote about her whale shark experience and I have to agree with her:
https://indianajo.com/swimming-with-whale-sharks-in-mexico.h...
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JZ
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9536
Registered: 10-3-2003
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In Loreto stay at La Mision or the Oasis.
Be sure to see San Javier in Loreto. Most beautiful mission in Baja. Paved road to it.
For about 1,700 pesos a panga will take you out to Isla Coronado. This is a must see.
The islands around La Paz are breathtaking. The last one has hundreds of sea loins.
Stop at Bahia de Los Angeles on the way back. Costa del Sol is the best hotel there.
Show your wife this video to get her excited: https://youtu.be/4VNTIhRa6q0
[Edited on 8-17-2020 by JZ]
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diverdown7105
Newbie
Posts: 13
Registered: 8-12-2020
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| Quote: Originally posted by elgatoloco | If I was retired I would take (all the) extra time (I had) and see whales in Scammons and San Ignacio. For us being on the water in the presence of
the whales never gets old. Stay in San Ignacio town at least 2-3 nights and go out to lagoon twice weather permitting. Watch evening turn to night on
a plaza bench as therapy. Take better part of a week to get from SI to La Paz, which is our favorite 'big' city on the peninsula and well worth the
trip, and then another week to get back. That's what I would do if retired.
We got in the water with whale sharks on our October honeymoon some years ago and its one of our fondest memories. You will just have to go back in
the fall. |
That's another vote for San Ignacio. Thanks for the info.
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