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geoffff
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Quote: Originally posted by PaulW  | | How Agileoffroad got into business was to resolve the solid axle travel and harshness. The fix is Coil overs spring/shocks and Twin traction beams
combined with Fox Shocks. The company was formed between a highly skilled fabricator and a Fox insider. |
Yeah I've looked longingly at the Agile Offroad's 4x4-conversion using the twin I-beam instead of solid axle.
This van pictured below has the Agile Offroad 4x4 conversion. See how nice and low it sits -- it looks stock -- and the front end still has more
suspension travel than my van.
 
Too bad Agile Offroad no longer does these conversions. Their website says they stopped in 2020 due to lack of Twin I-Beam Dana 50 availability.
And I have also read the Twin I-Beam may not be as beefy as a solid axle.
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geoffff
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| Quote: Originally posted by Maderita |
A buddy complained that the front suspension of his new (used) Sportsmobile 4x4 E350 was way too stiff and uncomfortable. So bad that his wife
wouldn't ride in it. I believe 2004 or 2005 year model. I looked under the front of the van and was surprised to see that the very pricey Deaver
springs had eleven leaves! Those springs had about 1" of compression travel to the bump stops. With both of us pushing down on the corner of the
bumper, the springs deflected less than 1/2".
I had him take a ride in my E350 Advance 4WD conversion (not a Sportsmobile), with aftermarket leaf springs for comparison. He said,"I want the ride
that yours has." I did the research and found a set of Skyjacker "Softride" at $290 each on eBay, free shipping. After installation in my backyard,
his van had over 3" of compression travel to the bumpstops, and a much smoother ride over bumps and potholes. His rear suspension was fine, and his
Fox 2.0 Emulsion shocks were noticeably superior to my Rancho RS9000's. Problem solved for $750 and 1/2 day of wrenching. His wife then made me the
best chocolate-chip cookies. |
Thanks for the info, Maderita.
If I understand this, you ended up lifting the front of the van an additional 2" to increase the total compression travel from 1" up to 3", right?
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Maderita
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| Quote: Originally posted by geoffff |
Thanks for the info, Maderita.
If I understand this, you ended up lifting the front of the van an additional 2" to increase the total compression travel from 1" up to 3", right?
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Yes, that is correct.
That is the modification that I did to my van, my friend's van, and to numerous other 4x4s.
It is likely that your springs had little free arch to begin with. Additionally, springs sag over time. Your springs, guessing, have lost 1" of free
arch from the time they were new.
Simply replacing your springs with a set having greater free arch will result in a suspension lift.
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/measuring-leaf-spring-fre...
Aftermarket leaf springs are typically listed as ride height vs. factory/stock height. For example: 2", 4", 6" above factory height. Because our vans
were not factory OEM 4x4 conversions, those numbers don't make a direct comparison with a new, unmodified 2WD E350. What you can do, is measure the
amount of free arch in your spring and purchase a set one "size" up (2" greater free arch).
With most of these aftermarket springs, Skyjacker "Softride" being one example, the result will be an additional 2 or 2.5" inches in ride height. My
experience is that, when driving, the initial inch or two of compression will give a softer ride. The new springs will be less stiff over the rough,
smaller bumps and potholes, while still absorbing the big bumps.
The down side to a suspension lift is increased center of gravity and more body roll. That is probably a trade-off that you will gladly accept for
more travel and a smoother ride.
Keep in mind when measuring overall spring length that the unweighted new spring will be shorter than your existing spring. Maybe 1" shorter. With the
van sitting on a flat, level surface, the spring shackles should be straight up an down. Are yours angled to the rear, now that your springs have
settled? Another thing to be aware of when searching for the correct springs, is that the "center bolt" is sometimes in the center of the spring.
Other times, the center bolt may be offset, which creates a front and a rear eye of each spring.
I almost hesitate to mention, because it is less than ideal, but you could install an add-a-leaf below each spring pack. The cheapest way to gain an
extra inch, about $100. If you aren't aware, it's a single, thick, tapered leaf with more arch which supports the existing spring. Most times you can
get by without replacing the shocks. And to be really cheap, sometimes get by without new, longer U-bolts. It will give you more ride height and
prevent bottoming out the suspension so easily. I doubt that it would soften the ride, and could make it harsher.
After installing new leaf springs, drive it a while (100 miles?) and re-torque the U-Bolts. I prefer to repeat that after another few hundred miles as
springs settle and wear in like a new pair of shoes. Note that I use a high-nut and then double-nut with a regular nut for a lock. That also protects
the threads for the next time I have to remove the nuts.
I hope to see your van, proud and tall once again! E350 4x4s rock!
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PaulW
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Battery for overlanding
I went down that rabbit hole and found
https://kickassproducts.com.au/products/kickass-slim-12v-170...
They also have a 125AH version
I thing the battery would be a good choice due to the mounting flexibility
Has anyone hear of the manufacturer?
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mtgoat666
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Weight is 45 kg. Yikes! Go with lithium or a bank of smaller lead batteries…
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
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DosMars
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Hey... Let's not hate on the side-ladder crowd! If you're ripping things off your rig you're not paying attention to your mirrors!
Great summation of all the reasons we love the van and the layout we have. Especially the description of having both doors open while camped out.
Very nice transition between inside and outside.
I'll add that the lowered pop top when on the road lets us go through most drive-throughs which can be convenient.
Our 4x4 was done by Quigley. As I understand it, all parts sourced from other Ford models so any Ford Dealer can work on it.
| Quote: Originally posted by geoffff | I've loved having my van over the years.
Being a van means the front seats (which flip around) become part of the living space when camping. And I can easily grab a drink from the fridge
while driving.
It's not quite a Jeep, but I can take it almost anywhere. It's fun to surprise the ATVs on the trail. And then I get to camp all alone at amazing
remote locations.
The large double-side doors means the van feels like part of the environment while I am camping. The camper merges with the outdoor campsite. Compare
this to most campers, which have narrow single doors – in these, you're either inside or you're outside.
The pop-top means I can stand up while parked, and still drive under low-hanging branches (8-foot high).
The pop-top means an amazing tent-like bed with panoramic views and cross-breeze. I love it – except for the fact that I can't leave the bed made
while driving. I have to remove and put away all the sheets and blankets every time I lower the pop-top to break camp. This was fine for a while, but
after hundreds of camping nights this has started getting old.
We use a fitted sheet and comforter up top. When we're ready to hit the road, I just fold it once each long and short-wise so it fits on the
big half of the bed (that lifts with the top when not in use). When you drop the top, the bedding squeezes down and just travels, sandwitched up
there.
[Edited on 2-8-2024 by geoffff] |
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Maderita
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Registered: 12-14-2008
Location: San Diego
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| Quote: Originally posted by DosMars | | Hey... Let's not hate on the side-ladder crowd! If you're ripping things off your rig you're not paying attention to your mirrors!
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Nice rig DosMars. Do you have the Dana 60 on coil springs up front? Which engine?
No disrespect to your van. The side ladders may be perfectly fine for you on highways, wide dirt roads, open desert, and beaches. When driving through
tight mountain trails and canyons, overgrown chaparral, or pinyon forest as geoffff and I do, a side mounted ladder with attached sheet metal is
vulnerable.
Some "desert pinstriping" is unavoidable while squeezing a full size van between obstacles. I try to remember to fold the side mirrors in, before the
branches have a chance to do it for me.
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geoffff
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Hah, yes! Every few years I manage to whack a side mirror (usually the passenger one) hard enough to break it. I've replaced it about four times in
the past 20 years. Luckily they are only $30 on Ebay!
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mtgoat666
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Posts: 17347
Registered: 9-16-2006
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Best place for a ladder is on the back, never the side.
I have a full size pickup with canopy, and use roof rack for kayaks and boards. I carry a step stool in the PU and use it for roof access… seems a
better solution than bolting ladder to outside of vehicle.
Better to work from portable ladder than to walk all over the roof from a single access point.
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
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