Colorful green chilies kick off a celebration
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Mary Ellen Psaltis
March 01, 2006
An oasis offers welcome relief in the midst of difficulty. With the lure of water and cooler temperatures, travelers breathe a collective sigh of
relief, then look for a place to rejuvenate. Todos Santos, a small artist colony located about an hour north of Cabo San Lucas Mexico, is in fact an
oasis. Not only is the heat less intense than in Cabo, but the number of palm trees can outnumber the tourists, who seem to be quietly content poking
around the galleries, open markets and artsy shops scattered around the town square.
We parked our car on a dusty side road, accented with rocky potholes. Everything is within walking distance, and art treasures abound.
However, our greatest find was on Calle Hidalgo, where we stepped off the street and into an experience called Los Adobes. Check your cares at the
entryway and then pick a table that overlooks the rolling cactus and rock garden. Diners can ponder culinary delights while watching the afternoon
shadows shift over the meditative background.
Under the watchful eyes of owner Elena Ascencio Ibanez, Los Adobes takes advantage of the exquisite local produce, much of which is organic. The menu
reflects seasonal selections, making return visits all the more interesting. With careful consideration, her recipes are tested and fine-tuned until
she is satisfied with the results. Ibanez and her husband, Erik Castellanos, own the restaurant with friend and business partner Juan Hernandez.
National dish
It seemed only appropriate in this Mexican oasis to order Chilies en Nogada, considered the national dish of Mexico. It is stunning in presentation
with the red of the pomegranate, white of the nogada sauce and the green of the poblano chile representing the flag of Mexico. In former times, this
favorite was served only in the fall, when the walnuts and pomegranates were in season. It truly is lovely to see.
Amazingly enough, the taste exceeds its spectacular looks. The chilies are stuffed with an intriguing combination of meats, nuts, fruit and selected
spices. Their fusion offers up a taste sensation that is sweetly sublime.
Admittedly, the total preparation time for Chilies en Nogada can be considerable. It is no surprise that it is usually reserved for special occasions.
However, today?s recipe is designed to make the task possible without being overwhelming. I would still call it an adventure in cooking, but for fun
reasons. First of all, the taste of the chilies will always vary.
Ibanez thinks the darker the skin, the spicier. The ripeness of the fruit also will affect the final tastes. It is recommended to use fresh walnuts,
another factor in the ultimate taste.
For those who need or want a vegan meal, it is possible to substitute coconut milk for the cream and various nuts for the meat.
I am not waiting for Mexican Independence Day or Grandma?s birthday to celebrate with one of Mexico?s most festive dishes. The day you serve these
Chilies en Nogada will be a celebration! Bon appetit!
Chilies en Nogada
Makes 2 portions
4 poblano chilies, roasted, peeled and seeded
Stuffing:
7 ounces minced beef
31/2 ounces minced pork
1 tablespoon chopped apple
1 tablespoon chopped pear
1 tablespoon chopped peach
1 teaspoon brown sugar
1/4 banana, chopped
1 tablespoon sliced almonds
1 tablespoon raisins
1 small plum
Dash of cinnamon
Salt to taste
1 small bay leaf
Olive oil and butter
Nogada sauce:
1 cup peeled walnuts
1/4 cup whipping cream
11/2 tablespoons cream cheese
Marjoram to taste
1 teaspoon sugar
Apple, pomegranate seeds and parsley for garnish
Preparation:
Stuffing: Saute the meats in olive oil. Separately, saute the fruits and nuts in butter. Mix fruit with the meat and add the cinnamon, sugar, salt and
bay leaf. Leave simmering, covered for 5 minutes. Let it sit in the refrigerator overnight.
Nogada sauce: Blend the ingredients in an electric blender until smooth, adding enough whipping cream to liquefy.
Stuff the chilies with the stuffing. Cover with sauce and sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and decorate the plate with sliced apples or pears and
parsley. Serve at room temperature.
Hint: Slice the chilies lengthwise from the bottom to near the top. This will allow you to stuff them and tuck the ends neatly back together.
Los Adobes de Todos Santos
Web site: http://www.losadobesdetodossantos.com
Phone: 01-612-145-0203
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