Where to taste Mexican wines
http://www.insidebayarea.com/dailyreview/localnews/ci_401336...
By Francisco Zermeo
07/05/2006
OVER at the Autonomous University of Baja California, at the Institute of Oceanological Investigations, they are experimenting with marine algae as a
clarifier for wine. Since it's plentiful off the Baja coast, they experimented with their growing wine industry.
At present, bentonite is used for this clarifying process as a fining agent, but it is expensive, at 100 pesos ($9) per kilo. Meanwhile, red algae is
3 pesos per kilo. This experiment was a prizewinner at a recent Food Science and Technology Fair in Mexico.
I ran into this tidbit in the magazine "Mexico desconocido" while looking for Mexican wine over at Carniceria Morelia on Jackson Street. Alas, none to
be found. Doesn't surprise me, really, since Mexico's wine does not measure up to the Californian and European vine kings.
Latinos from the Americas normally are not vino drinkers. The exceptions are folks from Argentina and Chile due to their long, stronger wine
tradition, more European settlers and lack of popular native alcoholic beverages. And you already know I am a bit of an abnormal Mexican, meaning I
love wine, but am no wino.
I blame it on my trip to Spain, as a crazy young experimenter of Europe back when I was 20. Before then, my thing was soda pop and some tequila or
Mexican ponche, but never wine.
Our favorite drinks do not include wine. We favor other drinks, such as tequila, brandy, beer, soda pop ? Mexico is the largest consumer of Coca-Cola.
Blame this wine absence on the Spaniards.
The Spaniards did bring their wine, and I am sure that after defeating the Aztecs in 1521, they finished it off during their celebration. What to do?
Well, they started planting like mad. Wine also was needed for Catholic Mass, which meant the missionaries also began to plant vines. Wine production
actually began to flourish.
The first and oldest winery of the Americas, started in 1597, is Casa Madero over in the Parras Valley, in the Hacienda San Lorenzo, state of
Coahuila, in northern Mexico, south of Texas.
Then, in the late 1600s, the Spanish prohibited wine production in Mexico for fear that it would provide too much competition for their own wines.
They wanted Mexicans to buy Spanish wine. The only ones allowed to produce it, but in measured quantities, were the missionaries. Bad protectionist
decision for Mexico.
With the independence of 1821, wine was given free rein, but nothing major developed in the young country. Wine was there, but it was not competitive.
Amazingly, it wasn't until the 1980s that the industry began to offer a bit more quality, and began to work on some positive growth and changes with
its wines. But boy, it has a lot of catching up to.
North of the Baja peninsula seems to be the best region for wines. That's why I would recommend a trip, at least a week long, over to the Ensenada
area. There are four valleys ? Guadalupe, Calafia, San Vicente and Santo Tomas ? that stand out, producing some 90 percent of the country's grapes. In
early August, they hold the Grape Harvest Festival.
Other wine states are Coahuila, Durango (land of Pancho Villa), Sonora, Zacatecas, Queretaro and Aguascalientes. Notice there is no wine in the
tequila states of Jalisco, Guanajuato or Tamaulipas. Nor in the southern state of Oaxaca, where mezcal is king.
For a great time, visit Tequisquiapan, Queretaro, in May for the Paella Festival, where you can try some good cheese and better wines from Mexico and
abroad. Then, in August, there is the Wine Harvest Festival, when you can stomp on grapes with your bare feet and visit the huge subterranean caves,
as well as eat, drink and be merry. Queretaro, by the way, is a fantastic, well-preserved historical colonial city, and the central square and
surrounding areas are a marvel.
Having eaten in so many restaurants, it's difficult to pick just one favorite, but I must say that Queso, pan y vino, where they serve fantabulous
cheeses and wines, in Mexico City, near the Siqueiros Poliforo on Insurgentes, is a special one, and the servings are to die for.
Some brands that you should be looking for are Calixa, Monte Xanic, Chateau Margaux, Chateau Camou, Pedro Domecq, L.A. Cetto, Santo Tomas and Casa
Madero. They include whites and reds, and prices range from as cheap as $5 to more than $30.
There also is a new concept out there called ice wine, made with grapes harvested during the winter months. Yes, the grapes are frozen. This is seen
in Canada, Germany and Chile. No, I haven't tried that one yet.
Champagne, or Cavas Freixenet from Catalunya, Spain, has established a branch in Queretaro, in mid-Mexico. This is not a bad bubbly. You can buy the
one made in Spain, or the one from Mexico. I have tasted little difference, as they are related. They follow the same techniques and use the grapes
brought over from the old country in 1982.
Here at home, our local vintners are Larry Ratto with his Lone Oak Estate Winery, and John Davini with his home brews. There is also Woodridge, which
is created with grapes grown by Jack Smith and Gil Zaballos in their vineyards. Good stuff, I must say, and they make Bacchus proud. Give them a
taste, especially since they are Hayward's own, representing our Italian and Spanish heritage.
The proverb "Good wine needs no bush" comes to mind, and it has nothing to do with President Bush, by the way. Most importantly, please, remember that
wine should be drunk in moderation, preferably with meals.
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