oladulce
Super Nomad
Posts: 1625
Registered: 5-30-2005
Location: bcs
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The Curse
| Quote: | Originally posted by grover
In keeping with the grand spirit of Aloha of the Sport of Kings, I have given it up in order to leave more waves for the rest of you.
Nor will I encourage my son to learn.
Like an earnest bumper-sticker I saw the other day read: "Surfing Sucks; Don't Start!" |
How true. It is a curse.
You have a stronger character than I Grover, and are setting a good example for your son. Save the children!
My husband and I shake our heads anymore and wonder why we chose to follow the path of this lifestyle. It controls the thoughts and alters one's
judgement.
It makes you spend your time and money traveling the world searching for things that may not appear, and that you have no control of (nature).
It causes frustration when you wait and wait and waves finally arrive- along with the wind. And aggravation when you wait patiently or search
feverishly, then the crowd shows up.
So why do we continue to subject ourselves to this?
Because we are weak, and tomorrow could bring the very best waves of our lives...
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Tomas Tierra
Super Nomad
Posts: 1281
Registered: 3-23-2005
Location: oxnard, ca
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Mood: Tengo Flojera
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" so why do we continue to subject ourselves to this?"
there are a zillion reasons..
Because you can't teach an old dog new tricks..
and......
"It's the ultimate spontaneous interaction with a natural medium" (-Dale Webster)
any other good reasons out there anybody??
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Diver
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4729
Registered: 11-15-2004
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Definitely a mental disorder.
It's very similar to the disorder that affects snow skiers, snowboarders and windsurfers.
Maybe try a blow-up wave pool in your back yard ?? 
.
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Tomas Tierra
Super Nomad
Posts: 1281
Registered: 3-23-2005
Location: oxnard, ca
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Mood: Tengo Flojera
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Is there a cure for the curse/disorder??
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Diver
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4729
Registered: 11-15-2004
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Tomas Tierra
Is there a cure for the curse/disorder?? |
They are still working on the cure - let's hope they never find one !
However, in the meantime, frequent and extended periods in the waves or powder snow will alleviated the majority of the symptoms.
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Lee
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3508
Registered: 10-2-2006
Location: High in the Colorado Rockies
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Curse/disorder or blessing and stoke?
| Quote: | Originally posted by Diver
| Quote: | Originally posted by Tomas Tierra
Is there a cure for the curse/disorder?? |
They are still working on the cure - let's hope they never find one !
However, in the meantime, frequent and extended periods in the waves or powder snow will alleviated the majority of the symptoms.
. |
I thought the cure was being in the water? Waves, no waves, crowds, whatever. Isn't it having salt water in your blood? There isn't a time I
haven't left the water where I wasn't cured.
Great Walensa said: the wire is life. Everything else is waiting.
OK so he fell. I'm a fish out of water. Time out of the water is time waiting to be back in the water.
Give waves, get waves. It's all about Aloha.
Background: grew up surfing pre-wetsuits: San Francisco (Kelly's, Ocean and Sloat Blvds., Ano Nuevo, Pleasures, Steamers.
Current homebreak: San'O (Church's, The Point, Old Mans).
[Edited on 10-8-2006 by Lee]
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El Jefe
Super Nomad
Posts: 1027
Registered: 10-27-2003
Location: South East Cape
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Surfing is not just the act of riding waves. It's the whole process that gets you there. It's the anticipation, the waiting, the sitting in the water,
the paddling out, the BSing with your pals. It's coming around the last corner after a long, bumpy ride and seeing it going off! Or seeing it flat.
It's sitting around a fire talking story. Its waxing up a new board for the first time and introducing it to the water and talking to it. "Here ya go
baby, this is your destiny. Feels good, no?" It's being in church with your legs in the water and the sun coming up on your face. It is smelling the
ocean's scent on a cool morning. It's right out my back door. I can hear it right now. Its b-tchin.
I'm the luckiest man in the world.
No b-tchin\' in the Baja.
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baja sur
Banned
Posts: 45
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Capo Beach & El ojo de la tempestad.
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sí
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Lee
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3508
Registered: 10-2-2006
Location: High in the Colorado Rockies
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This is it dead center
| Quote: | Originally posted by El Jefe
Surfing is not just the act of riding waves. It's the whole process that gets you there. It's the anticipation, the waiting, the sitting in the water,
the paddling out, the BSing with your pals. It's coming around the last corner after a long, bumpy ride and seeing it going off! Or seeing it flat.
It's sitting around a fire talking story. Its waxing up a new board for the first time and introducing it to the water and talking to it. "Here ya go
baby, this is your destiny. Feels good, no?" It's being in church with your legs in the water and the sun coming up on your face. It is smelling the
ocean's scent on a cool morning. It's right out my back door. I can hear it right now. Its b-tchin.
I'm the luckiest man in the world. |
You couldn't have expressed it more clearly. It is literally the anticipation and, sometimes, just checking things out -- watching, sometimes --
and seeing what develops over a few minutes or hours. And then, like a light bulb turning on, the decision to go. Then there is the walk.
Watching the water, feeling the sand as I walk. Thinking about what is coming, then, entering the water, the first strokes, cutting through glass
like butter. Sometimes, just sitting and watching other surfers and being in awe that that are so good. And, at the same time, remembering that
this connection goes deep and has lasted so long.
I could go on, like you Jefe, and it's all poetry. I'm a fish out of water and the best water, to me, is in BCS. Along with the people that make
this place, still, so special. Salute!
[Edited on 10-10-2006 by Lee]
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BajaGeoff
Super Nomad
Posts: 1727
Registered: 1-11-2006
Location: San Diego and Campo Lopez
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Mood: Heading To Baja!!!
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You nailed it El Jefe! Well said. Makes me want to drop everything and head for the beach!
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DanO
Super Nomad
Posts: 1923
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: Not far from the Pacific
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Me too. @#$@&*%#'n job!
\"Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.\" -- Frank Zappa
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SiReNiTa
Special Correspondent
Posts: 881
Registered: 5-5-2006
Location: Ensenada, B.C.S.
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Mood: Savoring life while saving the world!
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me three!!!! i'll second that any day and i'm still elarning and every day i wish i could go home grab my board get in the car and drive to the beach
even if i get creamed by the waevs every single try...lmao it's about who you are...it's not a trend it's a life style
Live life as well as you can,
don\'t regret the things that once made you smile,
learn from your mistakes,
and thank God for every second he gives you upon this earth.
Visit me at
Http://BajaScents.Scentsy.com.mx
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