wsdunc
Nomad
Posts: 179
Registered: 8-24-2006
Location: So Cal
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Mood: Upbeat
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8 day Mexican Gray Whale watching trip report
8 Day Trip
Day 1
Orange County to the border a breeze, no traffic on the 5. Must be a good omen. Border crossing smooth, immigration no problem. The cynic in me
causes us to skip the new sign to the toll road bearing off to the right, and instead we loop around to the left (the old way). The good news is that
this still works, and we are soon heading along besides the border. I assume that the new route (relatively quick right after leaving the border also
works?) Take the toll road to Enseinada ($2.40, $2.40, $2.60). By the time we returned the toll at Enseinada had increased to $2.65. Toll road as
usual is in good shape, although the moved toll gates are a little tricky as facilities (restrooms etc) are still at the old unused toll gates. Make
it through Ensenada, and have lunch at El Recreo in Maneadero. This is a Nomad recommended place, and we highly agree. Carne Asada tacos are a
little different with avocado and beans, but excellent. Al Pastor tacos maybe the best I have ever had, moist and delicious (cinnamon in the rub?).
All in all a very nice lunch for a reasonable price. Continue on to El Rosario. The road is good the whole way, more Pemex stations than I have ever
seen before. The days of filling up at every gas station I come to seem to be gone with the exception possibly of between El Rosario and Villa Jesus
Maria. In El Rosario we had originally planned to camp at the beach (El Bocana) and try some surf fishing, but arrived a little late and instead
decided to stay at the Baja Cactus, and try further south tomorrow. This is an indication of the planned different pace for this trip. I have a
habit of making my Baja trips missions, and have normally banzaied it to the Mar de Cortez as quickly as possibly, with a goal of fishing soon. So in
the old days we were always on a self imposed schedule, needing to get to each nights planned stops etc. We have decided this time to make it a more
relaxed trip, and just let it go where it wants. Baja Cactus Motel, another Nomad recommendation, is nice and well priced ($35?), folks are nice,
rooms are pretty nice, again I agree with the Nomad consensus. One caveat, if it’s chilly make sure and get a room with a working heater, we switched
rooms shortly after arrival to get one. The rooms all have mini split type heaters (and I suppose air conditioning), these have no controls on them,
and instead need the remote, of which there seems to be one at the office. So if you want heat, ask and they will come turn it on. We decided to
pass on Mama Espinoza’s, as the last time we were there I was underwhelmed. Instead we took a recommendation from the Baja Cactus folks, and went to
El Bocana Beach restaurant. It is OK, we have fish (halibut) al mojo de ajo, I like it OK, Marcia thinks it is a bit greasy. Retire to the Baja
Cactus, watch some cable TV, and sleep.
Day 2
Start the day with some pan (sweet bread). Here my wife learns a Baja lesson. Marcia is from Cochabamba Bolivia (a very cool place, anyone
interested can email or U2U me for Bolivia details). In Bolivia the bakers are at work at 0 dark 30, and fresh bread is available early in the
morning. In Baja the bakers come to work around 8 and start baking, fresh bread is available in the early afternoon. The panaderia on the way out of
town is closed when we go by, so we turn around and get some bread from the panaderia just befoe the gas station at the entrance to El Rosario. On to
Villa Jesus Maria. The road is again fine, and one of my favorite stretches, it is pretty leaving El Rosario, and also near Catavina. On the way to
Catavina there is a place where you pass a large pile of boulders on the right side of the road. This might now be signed as Los Pedronas(?) or
something like that. Whenever I am traveling with Baja neophytes I always tell them that when the Baja road was constructed that the road crews took
all the boulders they had to move and piled them there. It normally takes a while for them to realize I am spoofing them, I assume the pile of
boulders is left from glacier activity (?). We arrive at Villa Jesus Maria and gas up, and also have some tamales from the tamale lady in the van
next to the gas station. This has been a routine for a while, the tamales are good enough, and talking to the elderly proprietor is a treat, as she
will send you off down the road with a blessing. We head towards Laguna Manuela, and Morro Santo Domingo, which I have read about for years (The Baja
Catch), but have normally driven right past. The road into Laguna Manuela is excellent graded dirt, easy for any vehicle. At the fish plant we head
right and go up to the top of the bluffs. This part has some relatively steep soft parts, no problem with 4x4, but could be exciting without. We
arrive at the lighthouse and set up camp. This is a great place, the sun is shining, water down below in the cove nice and blue. We only see one
other person during our 14 hours here, Surfer Steve from Oregon, and he actually walked from the beach near the fish plant, not wanting to try the
soft hill in his truck. Marcia and I do some surf fishing, and I continue to show off my surf fishing skills by catching nothing, not a nibble. So
that’s the good and the bad of it, beautiful location for isolated camping, but no fish today. I don’t know whether when the water warms the fishing
improves, or whether the local fishing coop has hammered the coves too hard too long. Anyone got an opinion on this? Because we are on the bluffs we
can also look down into the shallows, and do not see any fish.
Day 3
After a relaxing night listening to the waves breaking we awake and decide to explore a little before heading on. We walk further north along the
coast, looking into many pristine coves. This really is a pretty area. We walk down into one of the bigger coves and stroll the beach, again making
a few fruitless casts into the surf. Lots of good picture taking here, with a large arch at one end of the beach. To give you a feel of the
isolation, I convince my wife to pose topless on the beach, which would never have happened if she felt there was another person within miles. We
break camp and head into Guerrero Negro in the afternoon. We stay at the Caracol motel at the entrance to town. This is recommended by Shari from
Ascencion Bay, and again is a nice place. Here we call Shari’s daughter Sirena, as we have been led to believe that she will be glad to share some
Baja info with us. Is she ever, she is at the motel in less than 5 minutes. We weren’t quite ready for that response time, as we wanted to shower
etc, so we make plans to meet at Las Cazuelas(?) for dinner that evening. Las Cazuelas (also recommended by Shari and Sirena is great. Sirena and
her “cousin” Rocio join us. The food is definitely a cut above, and the owner comes out to chat with Sirena who is an old friend. He is a charming
host, and as I said the food is excellent, we have a kind of sampler with clams with cilantro sauce, scallops al mojo de ajo (Marcia’s favorite) and
fish in a sauce as well as octopus in a sauce (my favorite). A tiny bit pricey by Baja standards ($15 a person for the sampler) but definitely a
gourmet experience. Sirena tells about her Baja life and experiences, advises us on whale watching at Laguna Ojo de Liebre, and in general is just a
super kid. At the moment she seems smart, strong, fearless, kind, and full of energy. She is planning on a surf trip later this spring and has asked
other nomad youngsters if they might be interested. She is hoping to study marine biology in the states, as well as hoping to get some sort of
internship in the states this summer. Did I mention that she is top of her class in school at Guerrero Negro? I highly recommend that any Nomads
traveling by who want to stop in and meet a neat kid, and get advise from her on all things Baja, do so. Maybe there is a Nomad with the connections
to facilitate her college plans? Needless to say the tuition to a good US school for a foreign national are a little daunting, maybe a Nomad has a
line on funding or assistance available for a talented kid?
Day 4
After a pleasant night at the Caracol, we head out to Laguna Ojo de Liebre. Easy graded road to get there, although we drive through thick fog at the
end. At the Laguna there is a restaurant, campsites, and Pangas available to take you out to see the whales. You are not allowed to use your own
boat (or kayak etc) and also cannot swim or fish in the laguna. After waiting a while for the fog to burn off we go out in a panga with a German
couple and a Swiss couple. The whales are everywhere, and we are soon in the midst of groups of them, mother and calves, as well as the machos (who
are smaller). Our boat companions are the right kind of folks, as we are all basically silent or whispering around the whales. Not that you
necessarily need to do this, but out of reverence. It is indeed special to be near these great creatures. A mother and calf swim slowly right under
our panga. And a baby whale comes right up to the other panga out with us, and allows folks to touch her. We over hear the Pangeros saying that this
is because there is a baby human on the other panga and the baby whale can sense this. The next day our skipper says this is not necessarily true,
and they were just kidding around, but I like that whole idea, so that’s my story and I’m sticking to it. I also have a revelation here and decide
for me that from now on the whales will not be called the California Gray whale because there is too much chance that will be interpreted as
California USA, and instead I am now calling the whales Mexican Gray whales from this day forward. The same way I prefer Mar de Cortes to Gulf of
California. The pangeros also tell us that there visitor count is only ½ of what it was 10 years ago. They wondered why, as do I. I am sure the
roads and traveling are easier now. I suppose that currently some folks may be worried about narco-trafficker violence, but it seems a shame. Seeing
the whales this close is definitely a life experience. I wish I had a chance to join Shari on her trip later this month, as she is very knowledgable.
Just the mention of her and Sirena’s names opened the lines of communication with the Pangeros, they are both well liked and respected. If you go I
suggest you name drop also, or even better communicate with Shari and Sirena before you go.
We camped at a beautiful isolated camp near the laguna, the Mexican government has done a good job here, many isolated campsites, nearby outhouses,
good roads to all the campsites, trash barrels nearby (and no trash on the ground). There is nice beach walking here, others showed us the sharks
tooth they had found.
Day 5
We watch the whales one more time, almost as cool as the first time. This whole Laguna Ojo de Liebre is highly recommended. The panga rides are not
cheap at $40 per person, but the experience is priceless. Oh, another thing, on the way n you pass through that salt collecting facilities. Here you
must sign in and out. As you sign in the give you a large piece of salt crystals as a souvenir. The rockhound in me appreciated this.
Day 5
The trip to Zombie beach. We leave Laguna Ojo de Liebre, and head north. We plan tovisit Santa Rosaliita, a surf point on the west coast that I had
read about for years (The Baja Book), but never visited. The road in is better than good, wide and paved. The government is building an Escallera
Nautico (?) there, this as far as I can tell is a breakwater and small port. Some of the stuff I have read in the Nomad forums suggest this is an ill
fated venture, as it keeps filling with sand. Anyhow there is great road to it. We go into Santa Rosaliita, which at least during our visit is quite
an unattractive little town. Obviously a working fishing town, not much there, didn’t see any place to eat (not even a taco stand) but there is a
small market. We asked at the market and were told about Campo Tres Alexandros(?) north of town. So we headed back to the highway, and quickly found
the turn off (marked with a small sign). Here is where is gets weird. As I said Santa Rosaliita at least on this day was not a very pleasant place.
As we drove along the dirt road towards Tres Alexandros another phenomenon occurred which I am familiar. It is the vague uncomfortable feeling you
get when you are driving alone on dirt roads, not sure exactly where you are going, or if you are on the right road. It is kind of like the beginning
of “The Terror”. There is really nothing wrong, but you start to get uncomfortable. (A real case of The Terror is when you are fishing 10 miles off
shore in your 15 ft aluminum boat without a radio, and instead of concentrating on the trolling lures you begin to focus on what the hell you are
doing out that far in that boat). So we are driving, a little weirded out, not exactly sure where we are, or where we are going. The weather plays
along, becoming gray and dreary and drizzly. We turn out onto a beach near a big bay. The gray skies are reflected in the gray water, and the sand
is gray. This is not where we are supposed to be heading, as we have heard about palapas, but there is something a little further up the road. We go
a little further, to where there are several palapas on the small bluff, with some gringos camped there. Again it doea not look that appealing, gray
and quiet. There are several dogs there, but they do not make a sound. No people are moving. Or visible. We try to find a spot to park, and
something odd happens. My truck radio comes on by itself. There is no station, just static, but the radio display says FM2 911. Odd. I turn the
radio off, and continue to park with Marcia directing me. The radio turns itself on again! Says FM2 911. What the hell? I get out of the truck,
and approach Marcia, trying to convince her that this is where we want to camp. But she doesn’t think so, and we decide to leave. I really don’t
need much convincing, because the whole thing has felt odd to me too. I told her later that I am sure it was just an strange occurrence, that in the
right weather, with the sun shining, and the water blue, this may very well be a great place to visit. But she’s not convinced, and we began to call
this portion of the trip Zombie Beach. I am relatively certain that this portion of Baja is not populated by the undead. I think?
We hightail it back to the highway and head north. Considering options, I remember that I now believe the road to Bay of LA to be easy, and it has
been almost 30 years since I was there. So off we go. And the road is wonderful, a walk in the park. We arrive into Bay of LA and the first thing I
see is a gas station indicating no gas. OK some things haven’t changed. But they have. The first gas station is not operating, but the second brand
new one (?) is. And there is a lot more to the town than in the old days. The good news is the weather is perfect, clear with no wind. And as you
all know, Bay of LA is certainly scenic. We drive out to Punta Gringa, pay 5 bucks, and camp in isolation (one other vehicle nearby) at the point.
The only thing I wish is that the caretaker might have warned us when he took the $5 that the world’s biggest whoop-de-do was just down the road, as
we went airborne, and my wife is not fond of flying. Luckily the truck is stronger than I am smart, and nothing bad happened. The view from Punta
Gringa is great, and we fish from shore and I show off my skills by catching (and releasing) a huge bass, at least 10” long. The good news is that
this locks me into a grand slam in the time honored fishing competition of First, Biggest and Most. Tacos at a taco stand in town are dinner, and we
slept at Punta Gringa.
Day 6
I am up the next morning to watch the dawn over the Mar de Cortez, and decide that it is a good thing that we left Zombie Beach and cam to Bay of LA,
as the dawn is magical. We spend the morning collecting nice beach rocks, and hiking the beach, even a brief swim (Brrrr). In the afternoon we break
camp and head for El Rosario. We arrive, check into the Baja Cactus again, and dine on torta’s at a Taqueria El Rosario, quite good and not
expensive, although we suspect we got the Gringo price, as when a local came in and ordered a torta also when he asked the price the owner said
“whatever you want to pay me”. I suspect she didn’t want to overcharge him, or give him a lower price than we got. Oh well, passing through places
in Baja I am not shocked by Gringo pricing, my hope is that when we establish ourselves near La Ribera that we can keep Gringo pricing to a minimum.
Another Gringo thing was traveling with dollars. When the peso was 10/1, it was easy to travel with dollars, now that it is ~10.8/1 I recommend that
everyone buy pesos in bulk, because we regularly got a poor exchange rate for dollars. Often it was 10/1.
Day 7
After a comfortable night in the Baja Cactus, we head out to Bocana Beach, 1st just to see it, and 2nd to honor the directions David K sent us which
were detailed and perfect. The ride out to the beach was nice and easy, no problem for a car probably. Did have a few of those hill crests where you
can’t see the road or anything on the far side for a moment, always good for a thrill. The beach was deserted, and pretty. I can see where I the
warm weather it would be a nice place to camp, although I expect it is the town recreation area and could get kind of busy. I also understand there
are other nice beaches to the south, although the road may be a little more challenging. We headed north, and decided to stop off at El Socorro,
another place I have driven by many times and never stopped at. Some friends of our used to own a house there, although their advancing years
recently forced them to sell, so we wanted to see where they lived, as they spoke very fondly of it. It appears to be a semi-gringo community, but
very nice, clean and well maintained. We were strolling near the beach stretching our legs when a man rode up (the beach) on his bicycle. He stopped
to talk and we met Jesus, who lived in El Paballon(?), and worked for the Patron at El Socorro. We spent quite a bit of time talking to Jesus, about
the area, about fishing, about whales, about life in Baja etc. He was one of those people you instantly take a liking to, as he evidenced the old
time Baja graciousness and hospitality, telling us if we came back and there wasn’t space in El Socorro to look him up in El Pabellon and we could
stay at his house. He also told us to visit El Paballon, which was about 3 miles north by road, or 1.5 miles by beach, which he indicated was easy to
drive. So off we went on the beach. I’ve driven in the desert quite a bit, but not much on the beach, so I was a little nervous, but the sand did
seem good and hard. However as we entered what eventually would turn out to be the last bay before El Paballon we got a little spooky (remember the
Terror?), not being able to see if there was still beach above the water line at the far side of the bay. So we bailed out, turned around, and
returned on the beach to El Socorro, and took the road to El Paballon. There is actually a nicer beach at El Pabellon, as the El Socorro beach is a
little rocky, and there is a large camping area at the beach. Again in warmer weather both of these areas would be good layover spots, if not spots
to spend a little time at. We then headed up to Enseinada, driving past El Recreo (sadly) but easing our pain by having coffee and pastries at the El
Rey Sol sidewalk café. Their pastry chef is world class. We then strolled Ensenada, window shopping. , We stayed in the El Cid hotel, mostly from
force of habit, although I am uncertain why, it is a little bit pricey, and their hour of free margaritas is nice, except that the margaritas aren’t
any good. Anyone have another favorite place in Ensenada? We ate Chile Rellenos at a small restaurant on the back streets which is next door to the
musician union, I like it, Marcia didn’t much. The price was good.
Day 8
After pastries and coffee at El Rey Sol for breakfast (starting to see a trend here?), we hit the road north. The toll at Ensenada had increased to
$2.65. The border crossing was relatively painless at about 45 minutes, and then it was Highway 5 home. All in all a good trip, helped by the fact
that we took it slow, and kept our plans flexible. I am a notorious planner/scheduler, so this was educational for me. It would probably be better
to live this way too. Thanx to all the Nomads for their information, which all seemed to be good info and added to the enjoyment of the trip.
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15939
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
Member Is Offline
Mood: Everchangin'
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great report. we're gonna do the ojo de libre run in 3 more weeks. can't wait....
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BajaDanD
Senior Nomad
Posts: 745
Registered: 8-30-2003
Member Is Offline
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Great trip report one of the best I've read on here in a long time.
Thanks
Im heading that way in 25 days
You left out the Imigration stop at Guererro Negro was it open What about check points.
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wsdunc
Nomad
Posts: 179
Registered: 8-24-2006
Location: So Cal
Member Is Offline
Mood: Upbeat
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The Guerrero Negro immigration check point was active on the way north. It is at the agricultural checkpoint just north of town. No problems, showed
the papers and were on our way in a minute or two. On the way south at this checkpoint there was a 10 peso charge for spraying the vehicle underside
with insecticide(?). Several other check points, at I guess the normal places because I seemed to always be anticipating them. One on the plateau
just north of El Rosario, one south of Maneadero, at least one other maybe near Colonet? None were a problem at all, most didn't bother to look in
the truck or camper shell, they were a little more thorough above El Rosario. My wife speaking fluent Spanish and chatting with the troops, as well
as my Gringo spanish talking, probably facilitates our passage
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5867
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
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Fantastic trip report. Very informative. Just the type of information we all like to read about. I am glad you had a great time in Baja. Any
photos?
Bob H
The SAME boiling water that softens the potato hardens the egg. It's about what you are made of NOT the circumstance.
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wsdunc
Nomad
Posts: 179
Registered: 8-24-2006
Location: So Cal
Member Is Offline
Mood: Upbeat
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Way too many photos, I'll pick some of the good ones and post them here. Someone want to advise me on photo posting? I can save them in relatively
low res to keep the file size down.
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
Member Is Offline
Mood: undecided
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wsdunc! Thanks. Fine story.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Wow, that's an epic! Gracias for the kind words...as I have said before, it's worth it to name drop once in awhile...most friends of ours get a free
apetizer if you mention we sent you plus you get royal treatment. Sirena has been enjoying entertaining Nomads the last few weeks. Sorry you couldn't
make it to our soiree fiesta for my birthday this week. Las Cazuelas will be hoppin!
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15939
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
Member Is Offline
Mood: Everchangin'
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just keep the file size under 50kb and click on "browse" above the "post reply" button. then find the file on your desktop (or wherever) and upload.
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wsdunc
Nomad
Posts: 179
Registered: 8-24-2006
Location: So Cal
Member Is Offline
Mood: Upbeat
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can you post multiple pictures (files) on a single reply as long as each file is <50K?
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15939
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
Member Is Offline
Mood: Everchangin'
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only if they are hosted offsite. otherwise you gotta post a foto and a word or two, then reply to your original post and start over,
etc.....etc.....etc......
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Gadget
Senior Nomad
Posts: 851
Registered: 9-10-2006
Location: Point Loma CA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Blessed with another day
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Interesting situation encountered at Alejandros. Did you have surf boards with you? You may have just got the typical bad attitude localism that
many surfers seem to think needs to be displayed when they are sitting at a surf spot in someone else's country. Other than the bleek conditions and
attitudes you didn't mention the w_ _d. It can blow you off the beach at any given moment in that area. Sounds like you may have missed that. It
has good potential for surf on the right conditions but gets very crowded now, thanks to the paving.
"Mankind will not be judged by their faults, but by the direction of their lives." Leo Giovinetti
See you in Baja
http://www.LocosMocos.com
Gadget |
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Iflyfish
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3747
Registered: 10-17-2006
Member Is Offline
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Really enjoyed the trip report.
We just had dinner with Serina. What a sweet kid! Apples don't fall far from trees.
Iflyfish
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