Trolling for . . . tacos
http://www.chieftain.com/life/1172047019/1
Twice-fried fish at heart of successful dish
By CATHY THOMAS
SANTA ANA, Calif. - Ralph Rubio was hooked. The warm corn tortillas caressed piping-hot beer-battered-and-fried fish. The sturdy crunch of finely
shredded cabbage melded with a trio of garnishes: a dollop of mayonnaise-based sauce, a squeeze of fresh citrus juice and the just-right spice of
salsa.
Rubio tasted his first fish taco in 1974. It was midmorning in the small fishing village of San Felipe in Baja, Mexico. He was a freshman at San Diego
State University, and it was a spring break that would change his life.
He opened his first fish taco eatery at Mission Bay in San Diego in 1983.
Now there are more than 160 Rubio’s Fresh Mexican Grills in the western United States.
‘‘A fish taco is an extraordinary thing flavor-wise,’’ he says. ‘‘The complex flavors and textures all go together. I had one this morning. What a
great breakfast. You may not want a carne asada burrito for breakfast, but a fish taco and a side of pinto beans are perfect.
‘‘Much of the art of a fish taco is having the right batter. The right amount of mustard, oregano, garlic, beer and pepper produce a lot of flavor.
I’m into flavor.’’
Rubio says his company doesn’t plan to mess with a great thing. He says that although he is always seeking new tastes and flavor combinations, the
company won’t make any big changes to their traditional fish tacos that are made with fried Alaskan pollock.
‘‘The fish taco defines the best of Baja,’’ says Deborah Schneider, chef and author of ‘‘Baja Cooking on the Edge,’’ (Rodale, $27.95), adding that
some people call the traditional fish tacos Ensenada-style, others call them San Felipe-style.
Schneider says that according to legend, Asian fishermen living in Baja long ago inspired the idea of using a tempura-like batter on locally caught
fish. The crisp-fried fish was teamed with local ingredients, and an early kind of fusion cooking was born.
Fish tacos are especially popular in California, where places like Wahoo's Fish Tacos, founded by Wing Lam in Costa Mesa, and the Rubio's chain do
rousing business.
Like all great street food, the perfect fish taco is very, very simple.
Success relies on fresh ingredients, plus the technique of double frying (the fish), and most of all, speedy service. The fish must be cooked in front
of you and eaten within a minute of leaving the fryer. It’s a little piece of heaven.
Double frying is essential, according to Schneider. The technique involves coating each finger-size piece of firm fish with a mixture of flour, beer
and seasonings (the consistency of pancake batter), then briefly frying it and draining it. Just before serving, the fish is fried again. Schneider
says if it’s not double fried, the fish takes a long time to cook and may become soggy instead of brown and crisp.
And, she says, the double-fry approach can offer a big advantage when entertaining at home. The fish can be fried in its initial step the day before
and refrigerated. The sauces can also be prepared and chilled a day in advance.
‘‘At home, I’d do the second fry outside on one of those $25 butane burners," Schneider says. "It’s a perfect backyard event. I’d keep the corn
tortillas warm in one of those tortilla warmers, wrapped in a napkin. I’d put out the sauces, the shredded cabbage and some good old pinto beans. Cold
beer, and maybe some agua fresca (fruit-based punch) and rice. Tortilla chips and guacamole.’’
Sounds like a very delectable at-home party, but if it’s out-of-town authenticity you seek, Nancy Zaslavsky (culinary tour director and author of ‘‘A
Cook’s Tour of Mexico,’’ St. Martin’s Press, $19.95) suggests a visit to the big seafood market in Ensenada.
‘‘The market is in a new building and it’s nice and clean,’’ she says, adding that inside the market there are about 10 look-alike fish taco places
lined up.
‘‘I walk in and look to see how clean the place is and look at the food. I look at the employees. Do they look professional or are they two
gum-chewing teenage girls? I like to take the tacos and go out the back door and sit at one of the tables covered with flower patterned oil-cloth.
"Order a beer and enjoy.’’
Zaslavsky says that it’s like a salad on top of those irresistible fish tacos. Shredded green cabbage, radish slices, chopped cilantro, chopped white
onion and pico de gallo (a mixture of diced tomatoes, cilantro, onion, serrano chiles, salt and lime juice).
Hungry?
------------------------------------------
SCHNEIDER’S TRADITIONAL BAJA-STYLE FISH TACOS
Yield: 24 tacos
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon granulated garlic
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon dried whole Mexican oregano, crumbled to a powder; see cook’s notes
Kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
12 ounces (1 bottle) cold beer, plus more if needed to thin batter
2 pounds firm, meaty fish, such as farmed catfish, skinned, boned
Freshly squeezed lime juice, preferably from Mexican limes or key limes
Vegetable oil for deep frying
For serving:
Corn tortillas, warmed
Diced avocado or avocado sauce, see recipe
Lime wedges, preferably Mexican limes or key limes
Secret Sauce (mayonnaise-based sauce), see recipe
Salsa de Chiles de Arbol, see recipe, or store-bought bottled hot sauce
Pico de Gallo, see recipe, or store-bought
Finely shredded green cabbage
Cilantro
Chopped white onion (optional)
Cook’s notes: Dried Mexican oregano is sold at Latin American markets and some supermarkets in the Mexican specialty section. A ingenious Mexican pan
called a ‘‘disca’’ can be used for frying the fish. Schneider writes that it ‘‘looks like a car hubcap with a very wide rim. You fry in the deep well
and drain the pieces of fish on the trim, which also keeps everything nice and warm.’’ If you don’t have a disca, use a large, deep skillet. If
tortillas are thin, use two for each taco.
Procedure:
1. Prepare batter: Whisk together flour, baking powder, garlic, cayenne, mustard, oregano, 1 teaspoon salt, and pepper until well blended. Stir in
beer until there are no lumps. Batter may be made several hours ahead and refrigerated.
2. Cut fish into pieces the size and shape of your index finger. Sprinkle with few drops of fresh lime juice and a little salt. Pour oil into deep,
wide pan to depth of 2 inches and heat over medium-high heat to 350 degrees. Use a deep-fry thermometer to test temperature or test heat by dropping a
little batter into oil. It should bounce to surface almost immediately and be surrounded by little bubbles.
3. Pat fish dry with paper towels. Check thickness of batter by dipping in one piece of fish. Batter should be consistency of medium-thick pancake
batter, coating fish easily but dripping very little. Add a little beer if batter seems too thick.
4. Add fish to batter. Using tongs or wooden chopsticks, swish each piece to make sure it is thoroughly coated, then lift it out of batter, let it
drip once and place fish gently into hot oil. Cook a few pieces at a time until they float and batter is set but still very light in color. Note that
if a piece sticks to bottom, leave it alone and it will release itself.
5. Remove fish to rack set on a rimmed baking sheet to drain; reserve frying oil. Fish can be prepared ahead to this point, cooled on rack and
refrigerated uncovered up to 24 hours. Cool oil and reserve.
6. When ready to serve, reheat oil to 350-360 degrees. Refry fish, a few pieces at a time until crisp and golden brown.
7. To serve, hold a warm tortilla in your hand and drizzle a small amount of avocado sauce. Top with fish, squeezing lime on top. Drizzle with Secret
Sauce and a few drops of arbol sauce or store-bought hot sauce. Top with pico de gallo and shredded cabbage. Top with cilantro and, if desired, some
extra-white onions.
Nutritional information (per taco): Calories 170 (52 percent from fat), protein 5.1 g, carbohydrates 15.2 g, fat 9.8 g (saturated 3.0 g), cholesterol
80 mg, sodium 210 mg, fiber 2.1 g Source: adapted from ‘‘Baja Cooking on the Edge’’ by Deborah Schneider
SECRET SAUCE
Yield: about 2/3 cup
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 to 2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar
1 1/2 tablespoons water or milk
Procedure:
1. Place mayonnaise in bowl and slowly add vinegar to taste, stirring constantly with a fork. Add water or milk, stirring constantly with fork.
Mixture should be consistency of thick cream. Add just a little bit to each fish taco.
Nutritional information (per teaspoon): Calories 30 (78 percent from fat), protein 0.7 g, carbohydrates 1.1 g, fat 2.6 g (saturated 1.5 g),
cholesterol 15 mg, sodium 35 mg, fiber 0 g
Source: adapted from ‘‘Baja - Cooking on the Edge’’ by Deborah Schneider
AVOCADO SAUCE
Yield: 1/2 cup
1/4 ripe avocado, peeled
Pinch kosher salt
Few drops freshly squeezed lime juice
1 to 2 tablespoons water or milk
Leaves from 2 sprigs cilantro, chopped
Procedure:
1. Place avocado, salt and lime juice in blender or small food processor.
Add 1 tablespoon water or milk and pulse. Add more liquid if needed to make a sauce the consistency of thick cream.
2. Add cilantro and pulse to blend. Taste for seasoning; it should be a little bland. Only a very small amount of this sauce is used in each taco.
Nutritional information (per teaspoon): Calories 45 (90 percent from fat), protein 1.2 g, carbohydrates 0.5 g, fat 4.5 g (saturated 2.0 g),
cholesterol 2 mg, sodium 34 mg, fiber 0 g
Source: adapted from ‘‘Baja - Cooking on the Edge’’ by Deborah Schneider
SALSA DE CHILES DE ARBOL
Yield: 1/2 cup
1 large garlic clove, unpeeled
1 cup dried chiles de arbol (about 30 chiles), stems removed; see cook’s notes
1/3 cup water
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
Cook’s notes: Chiles de arbol (arbol chiles) are sold in Latin American markets or sometimes in supermarkets with large, Mexican specialty sections.
Procedure:
1. Place sheet of aluminum foil in heavy, cast-iron skillet or comal (flat griddle). Over medium-high heat in well-ventilated area, dry roast garlic
until skin is blackened in places and garlic flesh is soft, about 7 minutes. When cool enough to handle, remove parchment-like skin from garlic.
2. Wearing gloves if your skin is sensitive, remove seeds from chiles.
Discard seeds and place chiles in blender; process until ground. Add peeled garlic, water and salt. Process until it is as smooth as possible.
Place in bowl and stir in vinegar. Let stand 30 minutes.
3. Taste a tiny bit to test seasoning. Sauce should be hot and highly seasoned; add more vinegar and salt if necessary. If desired, sauce may be
thinned with a little water. Sauce can be strained, if desired. Use in little drops, please.
Nutritional information (per little drop): Calories 10 (less than 2 percent from fat), protein 0.2 g, carbohydrates 2.1 g, fat 0.1 g (saturated 0 g),
cholesterol 0 mg, sodium 25 mg, fiber 0
Source: adapted from ‘‘Baja - Cooking on the Edge’’ by Deborah Schneider
GRILLED FISH TACOS
According to author Deborah Schneider, grilled fish tacos are an invention that originated in the U.S. Some touristy Baja restaurants offer tacos with
fish that has been marinated in a zippy citrus mixture and cooked on the grill. Yield: 24 tacos
For marinade:
2 tablespoons finely diced white onion
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1/2 teaspoon dried whole Mexican oregano, crumbled to a powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 pounds boneless, skinless fish fillets
For serving:
Fresh corn tortillas, warmed (use two per taco if tortillas are thin)
Diced avocado or avocado sauce (see recipe)
Lime wedges
Mango Salsa (see cook’s notes)
Salsa de Chiles de Arbol (see recipe) or bottled hot sauce Pico de Gallo (see recipe)
Shredded green cabbage
Cilantro (optional)
Diced white onion (optional)
Cook’s notes: For mango salsa, combine 1 large mango (seeded, diced), cup finely diced red onion, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, 2 teaspoons sugar, 1
teaspoon distilled white vinegar, 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice, 2 tablespoons minced fresh serrano chiles (use caution, do not touch eyes
or face when working with fresh chiles), 1 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro, 1 teaspoon finely chopped mint and 2 tablespoons finely diced red bell
pepper.
Procedure:
1. Combine all marinade ingredients in nonreactive bowl. Cut fish into several large pieces and add to marinade. Cover and refrigerate 1 to 2 hours.
Drain and discard marinade.
2. Clean grill and wipe with oil-dampened cloth or paper towel. Preheat grill on high. Grill fish until barely firm to touch and opaque (a fish
grilling basket works well to prevent sticking). Do not overcook.
4. Remove to platter and break fish into chunks to serve. Keep loosely covered.
5. To serve, hold a tortilla in your hand and drizzle a small amount of avocado sauce. Add a few pieces of fish, a squeeze of lime juice, mango salsa
and a drop or two of salsa de arbol. Top with pico de gallo and shredded cabbage. If desired, add cilantro and/or diced white onion.
Nutritional information (per taco): Calories 151 (52 percent from fat), protein 7.7 g, carbohydrates 11.0g, fat 8.8 g (saturated 2.5 g), cholesterol
38 mg, sodium 89 mg, fiber 1.2 g
Source: adapted from ‘‘Baja - Cooking on the Edge’’ by Deborah Schneider
PICO DE GALLO
Yield: 2 1/2 cups
5 large ripe Roma tomatoes
Leaves from 6 cilantro sprigs
1 small white onion
2 fresh serrano chiles (optional); see cook’s notes
2 teaspoons kosher salt, or more to taste
Juice of 1 lime
Cook’s notes: Use caution when working with fresh chiles; do not touch eyes or face. If you have sensitive skin, use gloves.
Procedure:
1. On large cutting board, core tomatoes and thinly slice. Push to one side. Roughly chop cilantro and put it next to tomatoes. Cut onion into
smallest dice you can manage and push aside. Chop chiles.
2. Use the side of knife to push onion back to middle of board with the chiles. Chop by holding top of your knife down with one hand and pivoting
blade back and forth, occasionally sweeping the pile back into center with edge of knife. Chop until onions are a little more finely diced.
3. Scoop up the tomatoes and cilantro and put them on top of onions; chop until ingredients are finely chopped and blended together. Scoop (including
juices) into bowl. Add salt and lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Allow to sit 30 minutes for flavors to meld.
|
![[*]](images/xmbforum/default_icon.gif){kind=icon}
