vandy
Senior Nomad
Posts: 538
Registered: 10-10-2003
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Drove all the way down last week...
I don’t often post more than passing observances, but I just wanted to fill in some blanks on a trip to Baja.
I left Phoenix at 9AM Monday October 1. Stopped in San Diego at Discover Baja and picked up membership (NO, I do not get any kickback nor am I in any
way related to those folks), prepaid tourist card (which I was ASSURED had to be stamped at the border, and returned on time or massive fines of up to
$220 US). I also got liability and fishing license.
So I cross the border in about the middle lane in my small car and get a red light at Mexican customs. I then angle off to the right to “secondary”
and ask the guy where I get my card stamped. I opened my trunk, he took a peek, and then I backed into the proper area, probably illegally. No
problems.
So I got the card stamped, got some pesos (10.85/$) and left after pressing another green/red light button.
The trip to San Quintin was uneventful, but I have to mention that the toll “Scenic view” “cuota” road towards Ensenada (remember to keep in the right
lane after the border to get this exit) was well worth the tolls. I’ve been driving thru Tecate for years and had never really known what I was
missing.
In San Quintin, stayed at Los Cirios hotel and went the next day to Mulege.
I have to admit, after stopping for new brakes in San Quintin (recommended by the guy at Los Cirios, 400 pesos for pads, mine, installed and
rotors/drums turned), I was driving at night before Mulege.
At Guerrero Negro, they’ve automated the bug spray: you just drive over an underneath spray after paying the 10 pesos. No more guy in the moon-suit.
The wind blows it all to hell and gone anyway. No checking tourist card at 4 PM.
Between GN and Santa Rosalia (there were a bunch of great pitahaya dulce fruit in Agua Prieta) I finally got stopped at an army inspection. I
couldn’t figure out what the soldier was asking me, stuttering over and over…”Day-bay-day-day-bay-day-day-bay-day” I finally figured out he wanted
DVDs, but I didn’t have any. In these days of under $500 laptops being able to record DVDs, I will have to remedy this in the future. These guys
must get bored out of their minds.
Mulege, I stayed in some slightly roachy hotel with AC right on the main drag. Both hotels I stayed were under $30. Stopped in Loreto (actually
Puerto Escondido) and got the latest gossip on land deals that will eclipse the free beaches south of PE. True or not, only time will tell. Loreto
Bay rumored to be stopping construction, leaving 700-odd laborers in the area with no work. Crime seems to be going up.
Made the trip from Mulege to Santiago and again arrived at night.
One thing to note about driving at night in Mexico, besides all the horror stories: a couple of hours after sundown, the road is pretty much left to
the “professionals”.
They are people with their headlights adjusted properly and who know when to dim beams (basically when you do it).
I only found myself driving blind (staring at the edge-stripe) at 50 MPH a few times per half-hour, as opposed to a dozen times per half-hour just
after dark. Of course there’s the other problem of people with no headlights at all coming around corners and being blinded by your low beams…they’re
usually gone early also. One way or another…
The local and federal cops are stationed by the side of the road now, flagging over people “randomly” for a shakedown, I assume…OK, I mean “safety
check”. It happened to me last year with the PFP…total shakedown, hence the attitude. This year I’m driving a very nondescript car with no front
tag, heavily tinted windows and my long blond hair under a bush hat. No stops except just south of La Paz where they were seeking desperados
seriously and waved me through after a hearty “Buenas tardes” from me.
A bridge detour had an interesting feature you’d never notice during the daytime: Diesel-fuel smudge pots burning with orange flames and lots of
smoke to guide you over the blind embankment, through the water, and up the other steep blind embankment…very cool in an eerie sort of way.
Good Luck, and have fun
PS took a drive to Cabo today. Roads fine, traffic sucks, toll road thru airport still 27 pesos. Los Barriles has the road all torn up heading north
towards Punta Pescadero, but lots of machinery is working and should be passable soon.
Weather still unbearable inland at about 2PM. Nice breezes on the coast make it “bearable” to me, compared to Phoenix.
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9011
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
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Mood: Inquisitive
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So, tell us about the PFP shakedown last year.
And where did you return the FMT that Discover Baja said you must do, or else............
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bajadogs
Super Nomad
Posts: 1068
Registered: 8-28-2006
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Thanks for the tip on "day bay day's". Copies of 'Y Tu Mama Tambien' is on the way in relief!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64946
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thanks Vandy for the news along the road... and confirming that the pre-paid tourist cards from the travel clubs still must be validated when you
cross the border.
I imagine that you can keep it for the 180 days and then 'mail it in'... yes?
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Mango
Senior Nomad
Posts: 685
Registered: 4-11-2006
Location: Alta California &/or Mexicali
Member Is Offline
Mood: Bajatastic
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| Quote: | Originally posted by bajadogs
Thanks for the tip on "day bay day's". Copies of 'Y Tu Mama Tambien' is on the way in relief! |
If you like "Y tu Mama Tambien" you might check out Blockbuster video in Mexico for KM 31. It's a really good horror/scary movie loosely based on the
La Llorena legend. At least one of the actors is in both movies. I don't like horror movies but I like this one.
They sell their previously viewed DVD's for pretty cheap. It came out on DVD in Mexico recently, but was never released in the states. Only in
Spanish with no English subtitles.
Make sure any of the DVD's you give away can be read in region 4, USA is region 1.
Good idea BTW.
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vandy
Senior Nomad
Posts: 538
Registered: 10-10-2003
Member Is Offline
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There's an address to send the FMT in (if I remember after the 180 days is up)
PFP shakedowns happen just like the White Pickup Weasels. Flag you over in the middle of nowhere and try to find something wrong with your paperwork,
then make up something.
In my case, it was "Your license plate sticker expires in November. That means Nov 1"
I have no respect for Mexican cops, and probably never will.
Here in Santiago, about 40% are OK guys.
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