Bruce10987
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Posts: 9
Registered: 11-30-2007
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A great first trip to Baja
Sorry for the delay in posting....but I wanted to report back and thank everyone here for the advice I got before our trip to Baja over New Years.
Overall, a great trip!
We left San Diego at 6:30 AM on the Saturday before New Year's - at the border no one stopped us at all, and despite my specific instructions printed
out, we managed to drive past the customs parking lot where we should have pulled over, and ended up in Mexico without even stopping. We pulled over
near where all the taxis wait on the Tijuana side - two of us went to get our tourist cards while the other two waited, then we switched. This was
pretty straightforward, and pretty quiet so early in the AM, and we were on our way by 8 AM.
We took the toll road all the way to Ensenada, no problems at all, easy drive. We got a little turned around in Ensenada - we stuck to the coast and
ended up on a small road nearer the water than the main highway, but eventually we figured it out and continued south. Stopped for some oranges at a
stand somewhere before El Rosario, and then in El Rosario stopped for lunch at the little restaurant in the bus. The woman there was very nice and we
ate some great fish tacos (served w/ avocado and great homemade salsa).
It was about 1 by this point, so we had made pretty good time - after lunch we drove about 1.5 more hours (including photo stops) to Catavina. We
stayed at Rancho Santa Inez, camping. Got a nice site and had time for a small walk before sunset. This place makes a great halfway point between San
Diego and Mulege - the people were nice, it felt very safe and the scenery (and stars) were beautiful. We bought some firewood and made a fire, though
it got very chilly and breezy in the evening. We had dinner at La Enramada - like Lonely Planet claimed, they had excellent hot chocolate made w/ real
chocolate and cinnamon, and the chimichangas were good too.
Next day was about a 7 hour drive to Mulege - no problems really at all. We did encounter a tipped over truck south of Catavina - luckily everyone in
the truck was okay, though gasoline was spilling everywhere...it could have been much worse. We were careful driving, since it's dangerous with the
raised road - often no place to pull over, and a serious problem if you drive off the road....it also took us a while to figure out that the left
blinker is the signal to indicate that you want someone to pass you - but once we figured this out we used it all the time 
There were several boring flat stretches, and many beautiful stretches too - with four of us taking turns at the wheel and plenty of good music, not
bad at all. At the military checkpoints, we were waived through every time.
We spent 4 nights in Mulege. We had reservations at Las Casitas, and I was pleased to see that they had kept them for us and that the rooms were ready
when we arrived. Things were busy for the hotel and restaurant - big wedding in town on the 30th, then NYE the next night. Our rooms were comfortable
and the showers at Las Casitas were awesome - lots of pressure and hot! Our rooms were 40 dollars per night for each double. We had been planning to
spend some time in the hotel and then camp for a few nights, but seeing what the weather was like in Mulege (kinda windy and cool) we decided not to.
We spent the 31st at Santispac Beach - we looked around for the hot springs, finally found the really hot ones amongst the mangroves, but they were so
hot we were afraid to get in! Did a little snorkeling too - saw pufferfish, stingray, zebra fish and lots of starfish. The water was cold, and I
couldn't stay in for more than 20 mins. That evening we went to the big party in Mulege, which was a lot of fun. Everyone we met was very nice and
welcoming, and it was a random but fun place to spend the new year.
On the 1st we mainly hung around Mulege, and on the 2nd it was back to Santispac (though we walked around the bend to a smaller beach w/ a cave and
hung out there for the day). The beaches near Mulege are beautiful, and if it had been warmer out, it would have been really amazing. Next time I'll
plan a trip for a different time of year.
I wasn't super impressed w/ any food in Mulege - my favorites were the chicken tacos at the place near the gas station in town, and the paletas at the
ice cream place....nothing else was that special really. But people were nice and Mulege was a great destination for us.
Drive back was also pretty uneventful. Got stopped at the military checkpoints, but never for very long and we only had to get out of the car once
(they patted down the seats of the car). Never had to empty the trunk, which was a relief since it was packed very full! Had lunch in Guerrero Negro
at a small restaurant there, near the gas station in the town. I had a disappointing mole, friends had pretty decent chile relleno. This was some of
the best food we encountered on the trip though. Spent the night at Rancho Santa Inez again and this time opted for the dorm room (10 dollars per
person) since we needed to get up super early to head back to SD the next day. We ended up leaving the next day at 5:30 AM, just before dawn, caught a
beautiful sunrise before reaching El Rosario, and then continued on. We stopped for little burritos and champurrado at some point (both were great)
and also before that stopped for gas in El Rosario (which somehow had cheaper gas than anywhere else.)
We got to Tijuana at about 2 PM and had a bit of trouble figuring out how they were directing/diverting the traffic. We figured it out eventually
though, after navigating several rotaries in traffic, but once in line the wait to get to the border was about 1 hour. Not too many problems here
either, and by 3:45 PM or so we were back in the USA.
Thanks again to everyone who gave me advice about Mulege vs. Bahia de los Angeles - I think we made a good decision, and despite being a long drive,
it was a fun one and definitely worthwhile!
Hopefully this report will be helpful to people thinking about making this trip in the future.
Happy 2008!
Bruce
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Sharksbaja
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5814
Registered: 9-7-2004
Location: Newport, Mulege B.C.S.
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Baja fever?
You are spot-on with the food in Mulege. Stick to the places that specialize in tacos. They are consistantly good.
I hear the water is cold(er) this winter in Mulege. Did you know that Stanispac was chock full of homes a year ago?
It is great to hear you had a positive experience. See any bicycles on the road?
DON\'T SQUINT! Give yer eyes a break!
Try holding down [control] key and toggle the [+ and -] keys
Viva Mulege!
Nomads\' Sunsets
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
Location: Bat Cave
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Mood: Sling time!
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there are plenty of great places to eat in mulege with fantastic food at small prices. Bruce - you need to check them out:
Equipali's
danny's tacos
el Patron
El Candil, nee Scotty's
Ray's Place
Saul's place La Palapa rest.
Carmaleta's truck stop
and of course........the jungle's daily special.
there are more - i just haven't found them yet!
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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bajadock
Super Nomad
Posts: 1219
Registered: 12-20-2006
Location: Punta sur de \'Nada
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Bruce, thanks and congrats on your fun trip report. Any pix?
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
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Mood: undecided
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Bruce, Thanks for the report. Rice and Beans is a really nice cafe with good food, a couple of buildings east of Las Casitas.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64595
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thanks for the report... Now you will be ready for more trips!
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Sounds like a very successful first trip----glad you enjoyed it! One eating place we really like in Mulege is Doney's --- more expensive than the
taco stands, but we really enjoyed the food.
How soon before your next trip??
Diane
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Bruce10987
Newbie
Posts: 9
Registered: 11-30-2007
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I haven't posted any pictures yet....eventually I'll get there. But i did get some good ones.
Cypress reminded me that we had a very good breakfast at Rice and Beans, right near our hotel. Good huevos rancheros and omelets. For New Years Eve we
ate at El Candil - most of us had fish, which wasn't super good - it was fresh, but the preparations weren't very interesting or flavorful. However,
the staff there were really friendly and we loved our waitress. They also had good margaritas.
On our first night in Mulege we had margaritas and guacamole at El Patron by the lighthouse, and this was great. We went back on our last night for
dinner, and it was disappointing. We liked the garlic soup, but some of us ordered scallops that came in an extremely bland garlic sauce, and I had
chipotle shrimp that came in a sauce that tasted like ketsup! Maybe they were out of good ingredients?
We also ate at the taco stand in the plaza, and the women there were very sweet and we had some good carne asada tacos. I regret never trying the hot
dog stand or the seafood taco/c-cktails stand near the plaza.
I forgot to add that on the way south from Catavina to Mulege, we stopped in San Ignacio for lunch. This was a nice resting spot, and we had a picnic
on the benches in the plaza. We went in the church, and bought soda at a small store where the dog was trained to lead us to the bathroom.
But San Ignacio is worth visiting, even if only for a few minutes, since it's so pretty and peaceful.
Not sure when I'll next get to Baja...hopefully someday soon!
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Gadget
Senior Nomad
Posts: 851
Registered: 9-10-2006
Location: Point Loma CA
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Mood: Blessed with another day
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| Quote: | [ Spent the night at Rancho Santa Inez again and this time opted for the dorm room (10 dollars per person)
Bruce |
Last time I stayed in the "dorm" was very memorable.
The wind was howling and cold so we opted for it rather than tents on a pre-run.
No hot water, pressure like someone taking a leak.
Beds lumpy nightmares
Corrugated metal roof banging in the wind all night.
Only guy sleeping was the one who drank himself to sleep and snored all night.
Needed a Chiropractor to be able to walk in the morning.
Oscar and Matidila are great but that room sucked! Would have been better off freezing in my tent.
This was in 04'.
Any improvements since then?
"Mankind will not be judged by their faults, but by the direction of their lives." Leo Giovinetti
See you in Baja
http://www.LocosMocos.com
Gadget |
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