Santiago
Ultra Nomad
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Registered: 8-27-2003
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Recent trip to Asuncion and Bahia de los Angeles
Day 1: Tuesday, February 19, 2008
Andy and I left Fresno at 5:30am and breezed through SoCal traffic. Crossed border noonish, Andy got his FMT and I got my nuevo FM3 book stamped with
flourish. Andy had to translate for a couple who were made the mistake of answering the question “Tourist or Business?” with “Business” because they
were going to buy a condo this trip. Bad choice. Andy finally got it through their skulls that no, they were in fact just visiting as tourists until
they bought something and then they could go the FM3 route. Quick stop in Ensenada to drop off my passport and FM3 stuff to an agent who would have
everything ready for me when we passed north in 10 days. A little nervous about leaving my passport with her but sucked it up and boogied down the
road. Made Baja Cactus about 7:30 that evening and had a completely enjoyable meal at Mama’s. Really. Not kidding. Service not surly, food not too
salty, hot things were hot, cold stuff cold etc. maybe they’re getting better???? By the way, the dessert is as green and flowery as I’ve aver seen
it. Andy woke from a nap and wondered if we were in frikin’ Ireland. I’m talking miles and miles of green hills with oodles of yellow, purple and red
flowers.
Day 2
Get my license back from the clerk at hotel (Antonio - would you please put a stop to this - it drives me nuts. If you need a deposit for the key,
that’s ok.) Deseyunoed at Ed’s place (Baja’s Best/Starbucks): no flies, new screen doors, good conversation, damn parrots were quiet - like they were
waking up with a hangover, so-so coffee by Seattle standards but fine by baja’s, breaking in a new cook. As we were heading to Bahia Asuncion, we
passed the BOLA turnoff and Andy remarks that this is virgin territory for him as he has never been south of that point. Cross the state line, are
relieved of all our oranges and apples, pay the 20 peso bug spray fee, are not asked for our visas. Stopped in Vizciano for gas, roll our eyes at all
the apples and oranges for sale (wonder where they got those?), buy a bag of dried figs and called Shari to alert her of our impending arrival. Road
from Hiway 1 to the turn off to Asuncion was better than in August of last year but still had to be careful. First 10 miles of the 25 into Asuncion
is brand new pavement but suffered terrible washouts in a few spots from the recent rains. Much discussion on “how to build a road” as we 3-beered it
into Asuncion. Made Shari and Juan’s place about 3 pm and was immediately informed that we were a little light on the beers - it’s now a 5 beer road.
Dumped a bunch of stuff we brought down for Juan and Shari (a ‘new’ computer - more on this later), wine, pale ales, x-raps, krocks, english muffins,
watched horse get shoed - made plans for Juan to pick us up in his new-to-him panga the next day and went to the rustic cabin at San Roque to set up
camp. As the full moon rose, we had our first tequilas and noticed the moon phase looked funny until it dawned on us we were seeing a lunar eclipse -
wow - first night, on a deserted baja beach, first shot/cigar and we get to watch a full lunar eclipse. As the moon goes into full shadow we see a
pickup rattling its way towards us that we assume to be full of Tecate girls as this would round out the perfect baja evening but alas, just the San
Roque caretaker waving at us. We sleep soundly, dreaming of lost boys and ships passing a full moon.
Day 3
Juan picks us up and we go north to troll for yellowtail and right off get 2 bonita. We spend the next 4 hours getting nothing all over the San Roque
area until early afternoon we catch about 6 or 7 very nice size bonita. Mostly cloudy and water is cold, about 58 degrees. Juan keeps the fish for
townsfolk who can use it - ok by us. Drive into town to set up Shari’s computer and spend an hour pulling cards and drives from her old ‘puter to her
new one and finally get on the internet - high fives all around, beers are cracked, food is served as we all slip into that happy place that makes us
go down there in the first place. Taco lady is closed but 3 brothers is open so we dine there - good food. On our drive back to camp we come across
an abandoned three wheeler on the road and a few yards later a flashlight waving at us - 3 kids have tent pitched right by the road and tell us their
bike quit running and could they have a ride to San Roque. We say ‘hop in’ and they break camp but then their uncle, the San Roque caretaker, drives
up looking for his missing nephews. All is good.
Day 4
The three boys have camped about a mile down the beach and wonder into our camp at daybreak to practice their english, drink our orange juice and eat
our sweet rolls. Good kids who tell us of the good surfing spots. We launch my boat, an 18' aluminum fishrite, at low tide at the San Roque beach
launching spot pretty much covering my rear axle in sea water. Hate that. We go 5 miles south of the main island off Asuncion where Juan had caught
some yellowtail heads (lots of sea lions) a few days earlier to try our luck. Nada. Fished the reefs around main island. Nada. Juan pulls up in his
boat and says nada for him or any other panga so far. We go north back to San Roque to finish out a perfectly skunked day. Two guys, oh-for-6 hours,
in baja. Sheesh. At least the fleet got skunked too proving, once again, that misery loves company. Drive into town to dine at taco stand, stop by
Shari’s to find the new computer with its case off. Shari has discovered that the 40 gig hard drive is only a 1 gig. Sheeeee-it - I took the guys word
and didn’t check. I mean, didn’t even think there were any 1 gigs left. Promise to send down a 40 gig with the next nomad going south and hit the
taco stand. Had my first tongue taco - pretty good. (Ok guys - no dirty jokes)
Day 5
We break camp, say our goodbyes to Juan and Shari and our hellos to Diver, and head to BOLA. Eat a great lunch at Marramillos (sp) in Guerro (sp)
Negro, wave at our fruit as we pass the check point, Andy commentating that the guys at the checkpoint must never get scurvy, and make Camp Gecko in
Bahia de los Angeles late afternoon. Spend the rest of the day unpacking, making camp and listening to a unending line of gingos coming by to explain
that all the work I ordered and pre-paid for in November and was not completed (well, not even started) was because in fact I was a complete imbecile
to ever pre-pay for any work in baja, ever, ever, ever. I drown my sorrows and Andy consoles me with the obvious “yes, you are an idiot but he
probably needed the 350 bucks more than you did” crapola. Why do long-time-fishing-buddies take so much pleasure out of our misery?
Day 6
We get a late, 8:15 start to the main island where the yellowtail are rumored to be and red line it all the way Muchos (sp), 28 miles from camp on a
completely flat sea with small ripples. Arrive at 9:15 to a dozen boats full of yellowtail. Bite stopped at 9:00. Of course. Nada until noon when
the incoming tide starts ripping across the reef and a dozen or so are caught with scrampled egg jrs or smaller. By all the other boats. Of course. We
give up about 2:00pm, arms tired from a million drops and scoot in on an even flatter sea. Try to ignore the looks of pity being cast our way as news
had already hit camp that ours’ was the only boat skunked. Andy promises to get up before dawn next day so we can make the early bite.
Day 7, 8, 9
A north wind sets in about 3:00am and just never stops - a 3 day blow is projected and is realized. Spent the time just fixing the place up, hanging
cabinets, puttering around, watering stuff, taking longs naps, actually reading some of the books we brought down and trying to find a spot out of the
wind.
Day 10
Broke camp and made Ensenada about 3 pm, picked up my passport from the agent and was told that the FM3 would not be ready for a few more weeks. No
problema - she will ship it to me or hold it for my next trip down. We saw about a dozen police and military patrols on the hiway from San Quintin to
Ensenada - more on one trip than all our other trips combined. There seemed to be some kind of checkpoint set up where Ave 2000 joins Hiway 1 with
traffic backed up onto Hiway 1. Made a very easy crossing at San Yisidro about 5:00pm, 30 minute wait and of course, was sent to secondary so the
boat could be checked out.
Good trip.
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Terry28
Senior Nomad
Posts: 824
Registered: 8-25-2007
Location: S.Calif mtns.
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Mood: Thirsty
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Santiago,
Great report...can't wait to find those secret surf spots you were told of.
Mexico!! Where two can live as cheaply as one.....but it costs twice as much.....
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3502
Registered: 8-27-2003
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Some photos of our trip:
Rustic cabin at San Roque
waiting out the north wind
Flowers on road to BOLA
Sunrise from San Roque Cabin
Juan hard at work
[Edited on 3-2-2008 by Santiago]
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ligui
Senior Nomad
Posts: 828
Registered: 2-9-2008
Location: Fraser co.
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Mood: love Baja !
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Thanks !! enjoyed your trip from here . ligui
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Bajafun777
Super Nomad
Posts: 1103
Registered: 9-13-2006
Location: Rosarito & California
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Mood: Enjoying Life with Wife In Mexico, Easy on The Easy
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Santiago, pics were great and relaxing in the chair is one of my favorite things to do also when in Baja, although some of my chairs do sit in a
cantina. I know that some Nomads take their computers down south but worry about authorities trying to take them or fine them for importing them for
business. If you are looking for a good computer laptop or desk the place I get them from is www.stealitback.com which is cop/government site that sells back to the public at really discounted prices as you bid on them. I have bought 3
dell laptops for my sons and 1 sony for me. I got most of them for around $270 dollars but that is with all the software, wireless card, cd insert,
etc. This site also has desk top models that can go even cheaper. Secure site and if the thing says "good" for the condition you can not go wrong.
This site has all kinds of good stuff as I also bought a night vision scope that would have cost me $600 for $60 and it works great and have had it
for 4 years now . Take care and good traveling. bajafun777
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Bajaboy
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4375
Registered: 10-9-2003
Location: Bahia Asuncion, BCS, Mexico
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Hey Santiago-
Thanks for sharing and getting me pumped for my trip in 2 weeks. Looks like you had a great trip.
Zac
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Russ
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Location: Punta Chivato
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Santiago, Nice trip! Short on the fish but it's all GOOD time. I was there a couple of weeks ago and met Shari & Juan. Good folks and generous
with every one. I got blown out of San Roque but met 3 "surfer dudes". Maybe the same ones that eat breakfast with you?
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3502
Registered: 8-27-2003
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Hey - that's my sufer dudes! Way Cool. Looks like the one in the middle might be working on a knobby???
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Those are great kids on the front porch. Fernando on the left and Tomas in the center are members of the bike team, the Lobos Marinos.
Today at Ojo de Liebre Tomas took first place in his division, and first place by several minutes. If he had a really quality bike, he would be even
more awesome.
Hard to find a prettier place than San Roque, and even harder to find nicer kids----stop by sometime when you are around.
John and Diane
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
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John and Diane: was that you in 3 brothers?
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DianaT
Select Nomad
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Santiago
John and Diane: was that you in 3 brothers? |
Probably not---last time we were there was with another couple and I don't think there were any other gringos there, only the workers from the new
hotel being built.
If the woman was very blond, that couple was Erika and Lanny----I have VERY grey hair. But, our house is easy to find---follow the main road to the
playa and think yellow.
We love that restaurant and the people who own and run it. It is really great when the sisters and the mother-in-law make tamales. 
You will be back? Oh, love your sunrise picture at San Roque---I only have a sunset pictures from there.
Diane
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Bajalover
Nomad
Posts: 227
Registered: 9-16-2006
Location: The Cottage at Ocotillo Hills
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Mood: Strongly - Missing Baja
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Awesome trip report and fun photos. Missing Baja and yearning to go next fall.
Sometimes you really do question; why you are and where you are.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13039
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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I would like to thank Santiago and amigo Andy for their thoughtfullness and generosity...Jim, you are a prince among men! a rare breed indeed!
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4baja
Super Nomad
Posts: 1339
Registered: 9-4-2003
Location: morro bay ca
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whats up jim? no fish in asuncion.
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Packoderm
Super Nomad
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Registered: 11-7-2002
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Fernando & Tomas: Here they are with my son Jimmy. Even though they are 13, they were extra cool to Jimmy who was 7. We all went boogie boarding,
dirt biking, got mussels, and spent most of our time at the cabin just hanging out listening to the radio playing the local channel (the same 5-6
songs played over and over LOL). The language barrier was all but non existent - even with Jimmy who speaks no Spanish. For me, they were the best
Spanish tutors I have ever had. When they had to go back to town after winter break, Jimmy was so sad because he was sure that he was going to miss
them terribly. But they came back each evening and hung out. They are two very special young men. If anybody so happens to be able to snag an ATC185
for parts, it would be great if you could bring it down for them to hone their mechanics skills while keeping their ride going.
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DianaT
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They are great kids---ATCs ya, but I hope you sometime get to see them in action in a Mountain Bike Race. Tomas even took first place at a special
invitational meet in La Paz where there were teams from all over Baja and from the Mainland.
We love watching Tomas' face change before the beginning of a race----his race face.
Great picture of them with your son. You couldn't have had better company out there.
John and Diane
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