TheColoradoDude
Nomad
Posts: 287
Registered: 2-10-2009
Location: Colorado/San Carlos, Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Paz, Amor, y Tacos de Pescado
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Over 4300 Miles and over 200 Fish Tacos Consumed!
Over 4300 Miles round trip from Colorado, 23 days, 4 Border crossings (Tijuana twice, Tecate and Mexicali), Ensenada to El Rosario to Bahia Asuncion
to Guerrero Negro to Bahia de los Angeles to Gonzaga Bay to San Felipe to Mexicali to Colorado, and well over 200 fish tacos consumed!
Well my friend Jenny and I had a fabulous time in Baja. This was my second time down in 3 months and I am here in Denver wanting to go back tomorrow.
Here is my trip report.
Arrived in Ensenada on March 4th and were greeted with an overwhelming military presence just north of the city. Apparently President Felipe was in
town for some fish tacos as well that day. We checked in the Villa Fontana hotel not bad for 60 bux. I like the balconies they have overlooking the
main section of town and that it is with in walking distance of the fish market and marina and Hussong's Cantina.
Headed down for some fish tacos then over to Hussong;s to listen to a little Mariachi/Floyd. They cover "The Wall". Fairly surreal.
  
March 5th. We head South to El Rosario and just take in the sights, sounds of the road. I think we saw 4 cars on the road that day. About 6 miles
before the Baja Cactus Hotel in El Rosario we take a detour to check out "La Lobera", the Sea Lions Sanctuary. This is a must if in the area, cost is
2 bux to check it out. This collapsed sea cave is a home to several Mama seals and their pups. I am not quite sure how the rest of it doesn't
collapse around itself but what do I know. We then proceed to check in to 5 star Baja Cactus. $27 bux gets you two king 4 post beds, tiled floors,
Big TV, AC, Internet (bring ethernet cable), the most beautiful interior woodwork with marble and tile/granite bathrooms with his and her's and a
glass shower with brass fixtures. Not to shabby! Headed over to Mama's for some crab tacos and chili rellenos. First time I have ever had dinner
with 2 Federales next to me with M 16's in their laps. At least they were pointed away from us. I think they just had the soup.
        
March 6th. Yippie ki yay we are on our way to see Juan and Shari! Another wonderful drive of ever changing landscapes. Stopped somewhere along the
way where I had camped before in January where there is a wash with a little Palm Tree Oasis. Cave paintings up a short hike as well. Stopped
several times pretending to be Bear Grylls from Man vs Wild but just could not seem to remember what Cacti and flowers I was suppose to eat to stay
alive. Instead we opted for just opening my Engel fridge in the back of my FJ Cruiser and making some sandwiches, We took a little detour to drive
the pac coast for a little bit and headed into the fish camp of Santa Rosalillita we drove about 25 miles of deserted beach until we headed back
inland to meet back up with Highway 1. It makes me think of the saying, "If a wave crashes on a deserted beach, and no one is there to hear it, does
it make a sound?"
        
We stop in Vizcaino to pick up Megs a nomad from Alaska just exploring around. I think she said 2 weeks ago she was in Yemen. We arrived in Bahia
Asuncion around dusk and were welcomed with an amazing sunset for the past 30 minutes. Met up with Shari who is the most welcoming, wonderful free
spirited woman. She had taken in an injured sea bird ( A Royal Turn, that she calls Queenie) who was found in the road. He was living on her living
room floor and we got to feed it little pieces of bonita fish. The day before we left It was healthy enough to fly away so it did. Juan, her
husband, and another amazing person was getting ready for Caracol season.
         
We soon get settled into our Sunset Casita which we spend the next 6 days just gobbling up fish tacos, drinking pacificos, watching whales breach
right from our patio porch, have many conversations with Tuto our host dog about the freedom less life of the American canine. I had a hard time
making out his Spanish bark but I think he said he was part lab and part sheep or crab herder. (Apparently every rental comes with it's own friendly
dog.) It turns out he lives next door but at night he wonders over, I am sure with a full tummy from his owners, and gives us that look. You know
that look! That look that says hey guys? can you maybe open up that fridge and make me a sandwich? Of course we did. Tuto likes boiled squid,
smoked tuna and garlic crackers too!!! Tuto slept on the patio and always greeted us when we came back from a day of exploring. I wonder what Tuto
is doing now. Hmmmmmmmmmmm............................
  
During our stay there we enjoyed fresh fish tacos, fish caught by Juan and prepared by both Juan and Shari. We spent some incredible afternoons on
their patio writing emails and watching the waves crash into the rocks below. We explored several remote beaches and watched giant squid wash up on
the shore. We met some great locals and had some awesome simple meals at the local spots. We also had the privilege to tour the local cannery where
they were processing Caracol (Sea Snails) and even have a taste. Thanks Juan!!
        
We will be back to this place!
Day I don't know. Today we headed back North to check out the Whales in Scammon's Lagoon. Three words sum this experience up. ABSOLUTELY FU##ING
AMAZING!!!
  
Her Body  Her head 
Saw a little bit of the salt mining operation. They sure don't guard the salt mines in the US like they do down here. Hmmm................
  
We settled in for the evening in Guerrero Negro at Hotel Los Caracoles. We had a nice stay there. Had wonderful tacos de pescado at Baja Mision in
town. Nice little thatched roof outdoor patio place. The owner also runs a hostel/hotel. Very nice folks!
   
March 13 Guerrero Negro to Bahia de los Angeles (BOLA). We saw our first Coyote on that 41 mile stretch of one way road into BOLA. We read in a
guide book that Coyotes have been known to catch crabs by dangling their tales in the ocean and as soon as a crab grabbed ahold they would fling them
on shore for an easy meal. I asked Shari and Juan about this and Juan said he has never heard that but has heard of Coyotes fishing for clams in a
similar fashion. Hmmm..... Who wants to go snipe hunting?
We enjoyed the quiet fishing community of BOLA. Note to self: Next time bring kayak and panga! We had a good stay at Costa del Sol. $50, Internet,
Bar/Restaurant. The owner was really nice lady with a gigantic black great dane named Scooby. Scooby acted as greeter/bar back at this place.
   
March 14 BOLA to Gonzaga Bay. Took the road to Coco's Corner and got to meet up with that incredible smile of a person named Coco. Enjoyed some fun
conversation and a couple cervezas with him. He was awaiting his prosthetics and was hoping that they would come later in the day. About 5 miles
before we arrived at Coco's was the only time this entire trip that my hairs on the back of my neck stood up. We were driving on that desolate dirt
road for several miles when all of a sudden I look in my rear view mirror and there is this black pick up truck with the bottom lights flashing like
it wants to pull me over. It came out of no where and I just kept driving hoping that someone would be at Coco's. When we pulled into Coco's I was
relieved to see other people there. Coco asked me if that truck was with us and I told him no, and that it just appeared out of no where behind me
about 5 miles back. I asked if they were banditos and he said nah, the banditos stick to the highway. I am not sure what that was all about but no
sense on dwelling on it now.
   
We aired down our tires to 20 psi and resumed our trip north. A nice 30 miles later we arrived in Gonzaga Bay at Alfonsina's. I guess we got lucky
that they had a room for us and they did and we stayed a wonderful 2 nights. $50 a night for okay accomodations, but you know what they say right?
Location, location, location!!! 50 steps from my room I could cast out into the surf and sit down in my beach chair with a pacifico in hand and just
take it all in. We met up with some guys from Mexicali that were there to fish and have a good weekend. They reminded me of myself and my friends
doing the same thing off on some remote camping/fishing trip just living it. I was able to fish and catch some nice rock fish and cabrillo and had
the restaurant clean them up and cook them up for us. They even added some jumbo shrimp, rice and beans, all for $10. I spent the next day acting as
first mate on the shore line for some kids from Tijuana who like me just liked to fish no matter if anything was caught or not. I untangled lines,
baited hooks, removed hooks from eager dogs, removed hooks from dangerous puffer fish and sting rays, and had an awesome time doing so. Enjoyed
cigars and drinks with the Mexicali crew that night and went to sleep dreaming of Baja even though I was still in Baja. The next day before I left I
went up to the manager and asked if I could leave my fishing poles and beach chairs for others to enjoy and he said yes. For me those things are
replaceable at a minimal cost to me which is nothing compared to the priceless experience of being in Baja.
       
March 16th. (Time to head back): Spent the drive just enjoying the isolated road and barren beaches. It still is amazing to me how much of Baja is
untouched and that a lot of the beaches are only accessible by boat or maybe by air but definitely not by road. It was on this road where we stopped
about 30 miles south of Puertecitos for a stretch and a view and saw those strange circular formations in the sand. I am going to say space ship, I
don't care what anyone else says.
  
We then stopped off in Puertecitos for some fish tacos and a beer. We paid the 10 bux to check out the hot springs but ended up not really checking
them out. We continued on and arrived in San Felipe for the evening. We stayed at the well over priced Lobster Hotel $80.
March 17th. San Felipe to Palm Springs, CA via Mexicali. Just soaked in the last several days and looked forward to more.........................
 
Oh yeah afterI went back to Palm Springs and dropped Jenny off I headed straight to Santa Monica to pick up my buddy Andy and take him down to
Ensenada for a couple days. Went bottom fishing one day on a Saturday and had the entire boat to ourselves. I thank them for even going that day.
The boat usually would have at least 20 people on it. Caught a ton of snapper and white fish. Gave most to the crew but Took el resto to one of the
stands where they turned our catch into a a massive plate of tacos de pescado y filete de pescado con maho de aho. We took some home and I put them
in my fridge in the back of my Toyota. The next day on our way out we wrapped the leftovers in tin foil put them on my engine block and then enjoyed
left over fish tacos near the beach halfway to Tijuana.
I am currently looking into a move to Ensenada soon!
Until next time...........
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Sharksbaja
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5814
Registered: 9-7-2004
Location: Newport, Mulege B.C.S.
Member Is Offline
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Wow, that's some report. Nice to hear what a positive and fun time you had.
Btw, you sure know your bbcode formatting, great job!
DON\'T SQUINT! Give yer eyes a break!
Try holding down [control] key and toggle the [+ and -] keys
Viva Mulege!
Nomads\' Sunsets
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Alan
Super Nomad
Posts: 1626
Registered: 4-6-2005
Location: Yucaipa, CA/La Paz
Member Is Offline
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Was that Opah in the back of the truck yours? I've always wanted to catch one but that's a pretty rare catch around here.
In Memory of E-57
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TheColoradoDude
Nomad
Posts: 287
Registered: 2-10-2009
Location: Colorado/San Carlos, Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Paz, Amor, y Tacos de Pescado
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No, they just pulled up as we were gazing and delivered them to the market.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thanks for the trip report! Good one!! So, did you like the whale experience?
>>>"Today we headed back North to check out the Whales in Scammon's Lagoon. Three words sum this experience up. ABSOLUTELY FU##ING AMAZING!!!
"<<<
Don't hold back, tell us how you really felt!!
Thanks again!
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13043
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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So glad your trip was a sucess and you dont have brain damage...well nothing you didnt have already! Funny you left out the best part...look forward
to our next excellent adventure.
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cymeryss
Junior Nomad
Posts: 50
Registered: 12-20-2004
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
Mood: So much to see, so little time...
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Very nice trip report, thanks for sharring. By the way that is a nice truck you got, any more info on that setup, and the fridge...he.he...hope you
it can fit a case of pacificos!!
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BornFisher
Super Nomad
Posts: 2107
Registered: 1-11-2005
Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
Member Is Offline
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What a great read! Thanks for that Dude!!
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5867
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
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Man, that was one great trip report and photos. Once I started reading this I could not stop. Audrey and I really miss the Gonzaga Bay area - as we
have not been back there in 6 or 7 years now.
Thanks a million!
Bob H
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64722
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Bob H
Man, that was one great trip report and photos. Once I started reading this I could not stop. Audrey and I really miss the Gonzaga Bay area - as we
have not been back there in 6 or 7 years now.
Thanks a million!
Bob H |
Bob... far too long a time!
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TheColoradoDude
Nomad
Posts: 287
Registered: 2-10-2009
Location: Colorado/San Carlos, Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Paz, Amor, y Tacos de Pescado
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Oh yah Shari! Because somehow I fell and hit my head I must have forgot about sharing the shark attack on my ear story. I am just glad that I went
to bed early that night of the party. 
Thanks all for the great feedback!
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BAJACAT
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2902
Registered: 11-21-2005
Location: NATIONAL CITY, CA
Member Is Offline
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COLORADODUDE THIS IS A ABSOLUTELY FU##ING AMAZING!!! TRIP REPORT, YOUR WORDS NOT MINE HEEE, KEEP THEM COMMING, THANKS..
BAJA IS WHAT YOU WANTED TO BE, FUN,DANGEROUS,INCREDIBLE, REMOTE, EXOTIC..JUST GO AND HAVE FUN.....
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Martyman
Super Nomad
Posts: 1904
Registered: 9-10-2004
Member Is Offline
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200 tacos??? Wow! That is impressive!!
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
Member Is Offline
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Enjoyed your entire report and all the pics---very well done.
Diane
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