The North Pacific wave machine is in full effect and shows no signs of letting up anytime soon. Over the past month, there have been more surfable
days at Jaws, Mav's and Todos than the previous four years combined. The holidays were especially generous allowing for an epic Jaws session on
Christmas Day, numerous Mav's days and even a paddle session at the Cortes Bank. Todos has been the most reserved of all the big-wave spots, partially
as a result of the major storm events forming so far away in the Western Pacific, but the island really started to come to life this past week with
two solid showings.
"It was a great warm up surf to get ready for bigger swells to come," said Greg Long, who hasn't let up one bit since his big win at Waimea in
December. "It's really amazing to have such a world-class crew of big-wave surfers in the water."
On January 13, a list of surfers that read like an abbreviated invite list to the Eddie converged on the small Mexican island, nine miles off the
coast of the northern Baja port of Ensenada. Besides obvious suspects like Greg Long and partner in crime Grant "Twiggy" Baker, Shane Dorian, Mark
Healey, Ian Walsh, Dave Wassell, and Kohl Christensen flew over from Hawaii for a dose of cold water. Rusty Long, Gary Linden, Mike Parsons, Derek
Dunfee, Alex Gray, Ryan Seelbach and Benji Weatherly rounded out the California contingent, while a handful of other big-wave chargers also had the
same thing in mind: score some giant paddle-in waves when Todos is at its best on a big, long-interval west swell.
Jaws was huge on Monday, which led everyone to believe that some of that energy would make it to the West Coast. Unfortunately, the swell never really
materialized here the way it did in Hawaii.
"You can tell from the setup that this place can handle a serious amount of swell," said Ian Walsh, who's spent ample time at Jaws, but has limited
experience at Todos. "I'm already looking forward to coming back for another go."
Although the sets were averaging 12 to 15 feet (Hawaiian scale), there were only a few bigger waves. Most people wouldn't want anything to do with a
wave with a 30-foot face, but these guys are freaks. They surf waves this size with their eyes closed. Regardless, anytime you get an accomplished and
colorful group like this together, it's a good time, even when Mother Nature doesn't live up to her end of the deal. Party waves, a lineup full of
skis and kelp, the occasional big drop and lots of story talk out the back kept everyone entertained.
Until someone figures out how to manufacture a 60-foot wave, the pursuit of riding big waves will always be different than any other athletic endeavor
on the planet. Imagine going to play hoops with your friends and the rims are gone, or going to the skatepark to work on your ollies and the ramps are
all gone. You get the picture. You are never guaranteed conditions with surfing and even more so when you are after big waves.
There are too many variables to count, too many factors that can fail. You can't practice big wave surfing. Your practice for big wave surfing is
going surfing when the waves are big. All of these guys know this and it's part of what make it so special, so elusive and so rewarding. The best days
are few and far between, and it takes an incredible amount of dedication, luck and skill to really get an epic big-wave session. So, maybe this was
just another dress rehearsal or better yet, a chance to practice for when it matters most.
Todos Santos can get huge and I've been told that death out there isn't an uncommon occurance. It doesn't get a lot of press because the government
doesn't want to encourage surfers, especially those who arn't up to the task.
Originally posted by DENNIS
Todos Santos can get huge and I've been told that death out there isn't an uncommon occurance. It doesn't get a lot of press because the government
doesn't want to encourage surfers, especially those who arn't up to the task.
I guess that's why they call it "Killer's."
\"Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.\" -- Frank Zappa
Originally posted by DENNIS
Todos Santos can get huge and I've been told that death out there isn't an uncommon occurance. It doesn't get a lot of press because the government
doesn't want to encourage surfers, especially those who arn't up to the task.
maybe dead surfers at TS doesn't get press because it is an uncommon occurence.
Keep the pic's coming Shari, I liked all the others, but 9 was my fav.. but, keep away from the edge...
Todos Santos Big Wave Event Feb 1-28, 2010:
"This is a unique surfing competition that will only be held in big surf with waves exceeding 30 foot face. This event is a Paddle-in competition (no
tow in) where huge waves will only be faced with raw human force and pure athletic and mental ability! Surfers from around the world will compete in
this 1 day event and will be judged on the size of the waves they surf with a simple reference point: “Risks equals rewards”."
Originally posted by woody in ob
just heard slater and other pros were surfing the central baja coast this week. my buddy saw him get a 15 second tube ride. getting ready for todos?
[Edited on 1-17-2010 by woody in ob] [/quote) I was there too. They
were all there along with the surf circus. Central is so crowded now. It ain't a secret anymore.
"If it were lush and rich, one could understand the pull, but it is fierce and hostile and sullen.
The stone mountains pile up to the sky and there is little fresh water. But we know we must go back
if we live, and we don't know why." - Steinbeck, Log from the Sea of Cortez
"People don't care how much you know, until they know how much you care." - Theodore Roosevelt
"You can easily judge the character of others by how they treat those who they think can do nothing for them or to them." - Malcolm Forbes
"Let others lead small lives, but not you. Let others argue over small things, but not you. Let others
cry over small hurts, but not you. Let others leave their future in someone else's hands, but not you." - Jim Rohn
"The best way to get the right answer on the internet is not to ask a question; it's to post the wrong answer." - Cunningham's Law
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