azvwbaja
Newbie
Posts: 2
Registered: 3-24-2010
Location: Arizona
Member Is Offline
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San Felipe to the Bay of Conceptition
While most of you were enjoying time with your families at home, I had an adventure in the Baja with my wife Susan, daughter Alexis, Co Co our
Chihuahua dog and a friend Alex that Susan and I used to work with. We left on Friday the 19th of December from Arizona to Mexicali for route 5 to San
Felipe in Alex’s 1 ton 4 X 4 Chevy crew cab with a pop up camper in the pickup bed. During our stay in San Felipe, we handed out Christmas presents to
children in the poor section of the city including a bike. It took us two days to hand everything out. Part of enjoying San Felipe was going a fund
raiser for the local football team so they could get a grass field. It’s always nice to enjoy the Malecon and watch the fishermen bring in their
catch.
After resting up we made a short 20 mile trek down to Campo Percebu . I told Tom Foudy our host that I would make pizza for him that night. Lupita
Foudy Mora his wife handles our FM-3 paperwork and I consider them good friends. He lives in a totally solar powered house right on the beach. After
the ladies spent time on the beach, I prepared the pizza. We talked around the campfire about politics, books and our trip down the coast of the Sea
of Cortez.
We left in the morning for Puertcitos, the ladies enjoyed bathing in the hot springs while Co Co and I walked on the rocks and explored. The road is
completed now this far. On Susan’s last visit a year ago it was not. The is usually someone that comes around and gets $10. For enjoying the
experience but we got off Scott free.
We have been told a lot of stories how rough the road was down to the intersection of route one to head south rather than going through Ensenada. I
would say that the road was finished for about another 10 miles. At one point we followed a road grader through a section and had to make a detour
through a wash up and down steep embankments where they where constructing a bridge. Soon the paved road ended and we were in for a long slow ride
down the gravel road. It was hard to believe that this was the main road. Mike who has a place in San Felipe was nice enough to stop a he drove by to
reassure us that we were on the right road and told us to stop at his new house in Campo Punta Bufeo. He was traveling a lot faster than us in his
Toyota pickup. The road went on for hours traveling at 15 MPH. Beautiful vistas, donkeys, and very few signs. We kept thinking we had past Campo
Bufeo. Close to dusk, a brightly colored sign appeared with a picture of a whale, we made it, Only, on the beach and sandy areas did we feel compelled
put it in 4 wheel drive, just in case.
Mike invited us in for coffee, his house was solar powered too. He brought a crew down from San Felipe to build his dream house. He said as soon as
the paved road came through he would move a more remote location. We camped out in his yard right on the beach. We spent the evening and morning
walking the beach. At Campo Bufeo they even have a air strip and small hotel. Mike told us that the next section of road to Gonzaga Bay would be the
worst part of our journey. We really did not think it was that bad. If I was in a car I might think so. There were larger rocks of about a couple of
inches in diameter and some steep spots. We gased up in Gonzaga Bay. Never pass up a chance to get gas. The next station down the road might be out.
It seemed to be a pretty large area with nice beaches but we pressed on. We were headed for Co Co’s Corner and up over the mountains to the Pacific
side of the Baja. At CoCo’s corner they had a bright display of tin cans strung up that was quite a sight and made a nice pit stop. We pressed on up
into the mountains, the road I would describe a decent considering we were traveling a 15 to 20 MPH. The desert scenery of saguaro cactuses and
ocotillo became more and more spectacular as we descended to the Pacific side. We intersected highway 1 around El Crucures at the dry lake. We
continued south to the intersection to Bahia de Los Angeles, the locals were selling gas out of cans at the closed gas station. Since it was close to
dusk, we camped by the side of the road for Christmas. We made a bonfire in the culvert. We continued on to Bahia de Los Angeles, it was a beautiful
town with a lighthouse on a sandy peninsula, shelter from the seas by islands. We stayed at an abandoned campground. No one came around to collect so
it was free. I am amazed by the people that we met there that stay all winter traveling from beach to beach. We walked the beaches and checked out
campgrounds such as Daggetts which I would have stayed there if we were willing to pay. Susan even snuck in and took a shower. There is good finish
and kayaking there as well. There are two gas stations in town and lots of places to get supplies.
From there we headed down to Guerrero Negro and entered Baja California Sur. A lot of hype was made about getting into this area. WE did not pay for
the tourist card $35.00 or a permit for Alex’s truck, or pay to have the bottom of the truck sprayed for bugs . We were asked if we had fruits or
vegetables, we said no and we were on our way. We decided to travel all the way to Santa Rosialia. It appeared to be industrial port with the ferry
that goes to Guaymas. Our family will be going to Guaymas next summer and we might take the ferry back over to the Baja. It was dusk and we found a
wash just south of town that lead to the beach. It was a well traveled road. I was afraid it lead to a factory or a pier. I walked in the dark to the
end. No factory or pier. We made dinner had a fire. Alex slept outside every night. I was awakened to headlights, music and a commotion outside. I was
surprised to find a group of teenagers in a couple of pickup trucks 30 yards from the camper drinking, swearing, and playing loud music at about 2 AM.
I sat outside for what seemed like hours till the left. I guess they figured they would harass the tourists. We did not confront them and they
eventually left. Alex said there was a stream of cars all night going out to the beach, most of which never bothered us. In the morning we gathered
firewood from the recent storm and headed south. Along the way south of Santa Rosilias there were some campgrounds and beaches that I am sure would
provide a more pleasant experience.
From here we made it to Mulege, it was on a river that lead to the sea with lots of palm trees. It was hit hard by the last hurricane on the banks of
the river. From there we continued on along route 1 and came to a grim reminder of how dangerous the roads can be. There was a pickup truck on its
roof by the side of the road. The roads are narrow and twisty with little margin for error. We came upon the Bahia of Conception and Playa Santispac.
We pulled in an found a beautiful sheltered bay with sailboats moored in the bay. The beach seemed pretty filled with large RVs beside square palapas
and we chose a spot on the north end where a house once stood. The government removed houses that were put up on the beach to keep its beauty. We
spent the days gathering scallops, firewood and clams, in no particular order. I walked the length of the beach and spoke with just about everyone,
most were there for more than 7 weeks from Canada or the northwest United States. They were adventurers to be sure. Jay drove his BMW motorcycle down
from the northwest and was tent camping, he joined us by the bonfire to compare tales and strategies. There were a couple of beautiful house that
were more like walled compounds next to our campsite. They were solar powered and had diesel back up generators.
On the way back we stopped at San Ignacio to tour the church, the town is line with palm trees and the plaza has large shade trees across from the
church built in 1786. It was a welcome break from the desert to be at this oasis. We headed back up route 1 toward Ensenada, we had a scare when the
driver’s side rear tire exploded. It destroyed the rim as well as the trim on the quarter panel. It took Alex and 2 hours to change the tire. She was
the one that crawled under the truck to man the floor jack. Fortunately the lug nuts were not so tight that we were able to get them off. We continued
up toward Ensenada instead of taking the gravel road short cut back to San Felipe. Things became more and more urbanized, while it was reassuring to
have gas stations and tire shops on every corner we missed the wide open spaces of the Baja. We found a road off the beaten track to camp. It was a
road to a goat farm, the caretakers said it was alright for us to camp there. A black dog stood guard over the farm and chased the farm’s horse back
to his pasture. He was so friendly that he tried to sleep in Alex’s bed.
We took the mountain road Route 3 back to San Felipe, with a stop in San Matias to take a look at Tom and Lupita new house. It was not hard to find
painted bright orange. Tom says the food is good at the local restaurant and they plan to spend summer there as it is 20 degrees cooler there. He is
excited about the fruits and vegetables they can grow. There is a small RV park there. Maybe, we will check it out this summer.
Back to reality when we hit our final two military check points close to San Felipe. Those of us that travel in Mexico are less intimidated by the
helmeted soldiers with machine guns manning the check points. We have always been treated with respect and courtesy.
Back in San Felipe on New Year’s eve we unloaded our share of shells and I enjoyed my first hot shower in more than a week. The next day we headed
back to the states and enjoyed the views along route 5. The border crossing at Mexicali East was no problem. The wait was less than 20 minutes.
AZVWBAJA
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Cypress
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7641
Registered: 3-12-2006
Location: on the bayou
Member Is Offline
Mood: undecided
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azvwbaja, Thanks for the report.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64831
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Quite an adventure for you from last December! THANKS!
The pavement is now 20 miles from Puertecitos and might be at Gonzaga in another year?
Glad you had a fun time... and no banditos to run away from, either!
If you upload your trip pictures to a web site like Photobucket.com, you could post them here if you want... limit size to 600x800 pixels when you
upload (15" monitor).
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15939
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
Member Is Offline
Mood: Everchangin'
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i think i love Alex.....!!!!!......
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64831
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Woody... how about your Gonzaga Bay report... did you go?
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15939
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
Member Is Offline
Mood: Everchangin'
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mid may....
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
Location: Bat Cave
Member Is Offline
Mood: Sling time!
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hey - can you edit that long text into some paragraphss so is old guys can read it??
i get lost just following the lines over...and give up.
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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Borregoman
Junior Nomad
Posts: 81
Registered: 3-4-2009
Location: Mission Viejo, CA
Member Is Offline
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Control +
Capt. Mike,
Hold down the Control key and press + to make the text of the whole page larger, I do it all the time when I have (get) to read text like that. Then
when you are finished hold down the control key and press - to make it smaller. Each time you press + or - the text will get larger or smaller.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64831
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Borregoman
Capt. Mike,
Hold down the Control key and press + to make the text of the whole page larger, I do it all the time when I have (get) to read text like that. Then
when you are finished hold down the control key and press - to make it smaller. Each time you press + or - the text will get larger or smaller.
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THAT IS SO COOL!
THANK YOU!!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64831
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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For Capt. Mike... paragraphs +, double spaced!
| Quote: | Originally posted by azvwbaja
While most of you were enjoying time with your families at home, I had an adventure in the Baja with my wife Susan, daughter Alexis, Co Co our
Chihuahua dog and a friend Alex that Susan and I used to work with. We left on Friday the 19th of December from Arizona to Mexicali for route 5 to San
Felipe in Alex’s 1 ton 4 X 4 Chevy crew cab with a pop up camper in the pickup bed.
During our stay in San Felipe, we handed out Christmas presents to children in the poor section of the city including a bike. It took us two days to
hand everything out. Part of enjoying San Felipe was going a fund raiser for the local football team so they could get a grass field. It’s always
nice to enjoy the Malecon and watch the fishermen bring in their catch.
After resting up we made a short 20 mile trek down to Campo Percebu . I told Tom Foudy our host that I would make pizza for him that night. Lupita
Foudy Mora his wife handles our FM-3 paperwork and I consider them good friends. He lives in a totally solar powered house right on the beach. After
the ladies spent time on the beach, I prepared the pizza. We talked around the campfire about politics, books and our trip down the coast of the Sea
of Cortez.
We left in the morning for Puertcitos, the ladies enjoyed bathing in the hot springs while Co Co and I walked on the rocks and explored. The road is
completed now this far. On Susan’s last visit a year ago it was not. The is usually someone that comes around and gets $10. For enjoying the
experience but we got off Scott free.
We have been told a lot of stories how rough the road was down to the intersection of route one to head south rather than going through Ensenada. I
would say that the road was finished for about another 10 miles. At one point we followed a road grader through a section and had to make a detour
through a wash up and down steep embankments where they where constructing a bridge.
Soon the paved road ended and we were in for a long slow ride down the gravel road. It was hard to believe that this was the main road. Mike who has a
place in San Felipe was nice enough to stop a he drove by to reassure us that we were on the right road and told us to stop at his new house in Campo
Punta Bufeo. He was traveling a lot faster than us in his Toyota pickup.
The road went on for hours traveling at 15 MPH. Beautiful vistas, donkeys, and very few signs. We kept thinking we had past Campo Bufeo. Close to
dusk, a brightly colored sign appeared with a picture of a whale, we made it, Only, on the beach and sandy areas did we feel compelled put it in 4
wheel drive, just in case.
Mike invited us in for coffee, his house was solar powered too. He brought a crew down from San Felipe to build his dream house. He said as soon as
the paved road came through he would move a more remote location. We camped out in his yard right on the beach.
We spent the evening and morning walking the beach. At Campo Bufeo they even have a air strip and small hotel. Mike told us that the next section of
road to Gonzaga Bay would be the worst part of our journey. We really did not think it was that bad. If I was in a car I might think so. There were
larger rocks of about a couple of inches in diameter and some steep spots.
We gased up in Gonzaga Bay. Never pass up a chance to get gas. The next station down the road might be out. It seemed to be a pretty large area with
nice beaches but we pressed on. We were headed for Co Co’s Corner and up over the mountains to the Pacific side of the Baja.
At CoCo’s corner they had a bright display of tin cans strung up that was quite a sight and made a nice pit stop. We pressed on up into the mountains,
the road I would describe a decent considering we were traveling a 15 to 20 MPH. The desert scenery of saguaro cactuses and ocotillo became more and
more spectacular as we descended to the Pacific side.
We intersected highway 1 around El Crucures at the dry lake. We continued south to the intersection to Bahia de Los Angeles, the locals were selling
gas out of cans at the closed gas station. Since it was close to dusk, we camped by the side of the road for Christmas. We made a bonfire in the
culvert.
We continued on to Bahia de Los Angeles, it was a beautiful town with a lighthouse on a sandy peninsula, shelter from the seas by islands. We stayed
at an abandoned campground. No one came around to collect so it was free. I am amazed by the people that we met there that stay all winter traveling
from beach to beach.
We walked the beaches and checked out campgrounds such as Daggetts which I would have stayed there if we were willing to pay. Susan even snuck in and
took a shower. There is good finish and kayaking there as well. There are two gas stations in town and lots of places to get supplies.
From there we headed down to Guerrero Negro and entered Baja California Sur. A lot of hype was made about getting into this area. WE did not pay for
the tourist card $35.00 or a permit for Alex’s truck, or pay to have the bottom of the truck sprayed for bugs . We were asked if we had fruits or
vegetables, we said no and we were on our way.
We decided to travel all the way to Santa Rosialia. It appeared to be industrial port with the ferry that goes to Guaymas. Our family will be going to
Guaymas next summer and we might take the ferry back over to the Baja. It was dusk and we found a wash just south of town that lead to the beach. It
was a well traveled road. I was afraid it lead to a factory or a pier. I walked in the dark to the end. No factory or pier.
We made dinner had a fire. Alex slept outside every night. I was awakened to headlights, music and a commotion outside. I was surprised to find a
group of teenagers in a couple of pickup trucks 30 yards from the camper drinking, swearing, and playing loud music at about 2 AM. I sat outside for
what seemed like hours till the left. I guess they figured they would harass the tourists. We did not confront them and they eventually left. Alex
said there was a stream of cars all night going out to the beach, most of which never bothered us.
In the morning we gathered firewood from the recent storm and headed south. Along the way south of Santa Rosilias there were some campgrounds and
beaches that I am sure would provide a more pleasant experience.
From here we made it to Mulege, it was on a river that lead to the sea with lots of palm trees. It was hit hard by the last hurricane on the banks of
the river. From there we continued on along route 1 and came to a grim reminder of how dangerous the roads can be. There was a pickup truck on its
roof by the side of the road. The roads are narrow and twisty with little margin for error.
We came upon the Bahia of Conception and Playa Santispac. We pulled in an found a beautiful sheltered bay with sailboats moored in the bay. The beach
seemed pretty filled with large RVs beside square palapas and we chose a spot on the north end where a house once stood. The government removed houses
that were put up on the beach to keep its beauty.
We spent the days gathering scallops, firewood and clams, in no particular order. I walked the length of the beach and spoke with just about everyone,
most were there for more than 7 weeks from Canada or the northwest United States. They were adventurers to be sure. Jay drove his BMW motorcycle down
from the northwest and was tent camping, he joined us by the bonfire to compare tales and strategies. There were a couple of beautiful house that
were more like walled compounds next to our campsite. They were solar powered and had diesel back up generators.
On the way back we stopped at San Ignacio to tour the church, the town is line with palm trees and the plaza has large shade trees across from the
church built in 1786. It was a welcome break from the desert to be at this oasis. We headed back up route 1 toward Ensenada, we had a scare when the
driver’s side rear tire exploded. It destroyed the rim as well as the trim on the quarter panel. It took Alex and 2 hours to change the tire. She was
the one that crawled under the truck to man the floor jack. Fortunately the lug nuts were not so tight that we were able to get them off.
We continued up toward Ensenada instead of taking the gravel road short cut back to San Felipe. Things became more and more urbanized, while it was
reassuring to have gas stations and tire shops on every corner we missed the wide open spaces of the Baja.
We found a road off the beaten track to camp. It was a road to a goat farm, the caretakers said it was alright for us to camp there. A black dog stood
guard over the farm and chased the farm’s horse back to his pasture. He was so friendly that he tried to sleep in Alex’s bed.
We took the mountain road Route 3 back to San Felipe, with a stop in San Matias to take a look at Tom and Lupita new house. It was not hard to find
painted bright orange. Tom says the food is good at the local restaurant and they plan to spend summer there as it is 20 degrees cooler there. He is
excited about the fruits and vegetables they can grow. There is a small RV park there. Maybe, we will check it out this summer.
Back to reality when we hit our final two military check points close to San Felipe. Those of us that travel in Mexico are less intimidated by the
helmeted soldiers with machine guns manning the check points. We have always been treated with respect and courtesy.
Back in San Felipe on New Year’s eve we unloaded our share of shells and I enjoyed my first hot shower in more than a week. The next day we headed
back to the states and enjoyed the views along route 5. The border crossing at Mexicali East was no problem. The wait was less than 20 minutes.
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Member Is Offline
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Borregoman
Capt. Mike,
Hold down the Control key and press + to make the text of the whole page larger, I do it all the time when I have (get) to read text like that. Then
when you are finished hold down the control key and press - to make it smaller. Each time you press + or - the text will get larger or smaller.
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It does not work for me. I get the pop up window to add it to a favorite place. Maybe it's an AOL thing for me.
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howardf
Newbie
Posts: 2
Registered: 5-9-2010
Member Is Offline
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Is the Puertecito-Chapala continually being improved? I'm headed south along that stretch in another month or so and wondered if there might be
further improvements from the last report.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64831
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by howardf
Is the Puertecito-Chapala continually being improved? I'm headed south along that stretch in another month or so and wondered if there might be
further improvements from the last report. |
Yes... from reading other's reports here on Nomad, the construction on south from El Huerfanito is underway (El Huerfanito is 20 miles south of
Puertecitos and is where pavement ended last month). Gonzaga Bay is 25 miles from El Huerfanito and some new roadbed is already in.
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