Tijuana Street soup?
I don't think I would try soup from the streets of TJ, but this adaptation for the home kitchen looks good.
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| Quote: | Seafood soup reminiscent of Tijuana street food
Gaby Camacho, Special to The Chronicle
Street food is just finding its niche in the Bay Area, but it has always had a very special place in my heart. My hometown of Tijuana is known for its
street food - from tacos and hot dogs to tamales and tortas.
I ate them every chance I could. When my brother and I were in high school, we would spend entire Sundays driving around the streets of Tijuana,
stopping at our favorite haunts. Now that I live in San Francisco, when I go home to visit my family, my first stops are always at my favorite stands
to gorge myself with the chow of my childhood.
On a recent trip, my sister and brother-in-law were raving about a stand that opens for business at 3 a.m. and stays just until they've run out of
food, which is usually soon after dawn. This cart by the side of the road does just one dish, but they do it exceptionally well.
It's the Tijuana version of San Francisco's cioppino, although the Tijuana folk will never admit to that. It's garlicky, spicy and adaptable to
whatever ingredients happen to be on hand, which makes it ideal for a crowd.
Before I even finished sopping up the broth from the bottom of my bowl with a warm tortilla, I was thinking of the Bay Area ingredients I could use to
assemble this delectable dish.
Now that I'm back, I've been craving this mouthwatering soup and thinking of different ways to re-create it in my own kitchen. I scooped up plump,
juicy tomatoes, spicy poblano peppers and even newly picked garlic - all perfect additions to my hot pot of spicy goodness. After stopping at my local
fishmonger, I was well on my way to entertaining my friends with flair.
The broth is so simple that it can be made early in the day and left on the stove to allow the flavors to meld. Once friends arrived, I played street
vendor and cooked each one's seafood to order.
Because this has been such a cool summer, soup still hits the spot. And, when you have friends as finicky as mine, this stew can be customized to each
person's preference.
Add some warm tortillas and cold beer and you've got yourself a party.
Tijuana-Style Spicy Seafood Soup
Serves 6-8
Much of this cioppino-like soup can be prepared ahead, so it comes together quickly. It is also flexible - you can add whatever kind of seafood you
like.
Ancho Chile Salsa
1 1/2 to 2 dried ancho or pasilla chiles, seeds and stems discarded
1 clove garlic, chopped
-- Kosher salt
Shrimp stock
1 pound medium shrimp
1/2 white onion, roughly chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 stalk celery, roughly chopped
1/2 lemon
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs of cilantro
4 whole black peppercorns
Soup
1 large white onion
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 stalks celery, chopped (about 3/4 cup)
-- Kosher salt, to taste
3 cloves garlic (about 1 tablespoon, minced)
5 Roma tomatoes, charred, peeled and chopped (see Note)
2 poblano peppers, charred, peeled, seeded and chopped (see Note)
2 medium carrots, peeled and chopped (about 2 cups)
-- Ground black pepper, to taste
1 teaspoon Mexican oregano
1/2 pound sea scallops, halved horizontally
1/2 pound calamari rings
1 pound halibut, cut into 1-inch cubes
1/2 cup minced cilantro
Garnish
-- Corn tortillas
-- Ancho chile salsa (see recipe)
-- Lime wedges
For the salsa: Heat a dry griddle or saute pan over medium-high heat and toast the chiles for a couple of minutes, skin side down,
until they change color and smell fragrant (this should happen pretty quickly). Add chiles to 1 1/2 cups hot water and soak until soft, about 5
minutes. Drain chiles then add to a blender, along with the garlic and a little fresh water. Blend, adding more water as needed (about 3-4 ounces
total), until smooth and thick. Add salt to taste.
For the shrimp stock: Peel shrimp; rinse shells, drain and reserve. Cover and refrigerate the peeled shrimp to use later in the
recipe. Place shells, onion, garlic, celery, lemon half, bay leaf, cilantro, peppercorns and 2 quarts water in a stockpot. Simmer 30 minutes, skimming
as needed. Strain through a cheesecloth-lined sieve, discard solids and reserve stock. The stock can be made a day ahead.
For the soup: Chop 3/4 of the onion (you should have about 1 1/2 cups); mince the remainder and reserve for garnish.
Pour oil into a 4-quart stockpot, set over medium heat, and add onion, celery and a pinch of salt. Cook, stirring, until soft, about 4 minutes. Add
the garlic and cook another minute, until fragrant. Add the roasted tomatoes and peppers and cook for another couple of minutes, then add the prepared
shrimp stock and carrots. Bring to a simmer. Add salt and black pepper to taste. Crush the oregano with your fingers and sprinkle in. Simmer 20
minutes or more to combine flavors. This can be prepared ahead.
When ready to serve, bring the broth back to a simmer. Add the reserved shrimp, scallops, calamari, halibut and 1/4 cup of the cilantro. Simmer 2-4
minutes, or until the seafood is cooked through. Serve accompanied with corn tortillas, ancho chile salsa, lime wedges, and reserved minced onion and
cilantro.
Note: To char the tomatoes and poblanos, rub with a little oil, place on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and roast under the
broiler, turning occasionally, until skin is blackened and blistered. Gently rub with a dry paper towel to remove the skins. The tomatoes and poblanos
can be roasted a day ahead.
Per serving: 216 calories, 24 mg protein, 9 g carbohydrate, 7 g fat (1 g saturated), 142 mg cholesterol, 201 mg sodium, 2 g fiber.
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Truth generally lies in the coordination of antagonistic opinions
-Herbert Spencer
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