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805gregg
Super Nomad
Posts: 1344
Registered: 5-21-2006
Location: Ojai, Ca
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Old Man Emu.
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wessongroup
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 21152
Registered: 8-9-2009
Location: Mission Viejo
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Mood: Suicide Hot line ... please hold
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| Quote: | Originally posted by TW
If you drive really rough roads very often like the Gonzaga road I would suggest going with a Bilstein 5160 or a Fox with the external res. Both are
in the $200 per shock range and are rebuildable, but you'll never need another shock for Baja. |
Think ya got the answer here... thanks it all helps...
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Bajatripper
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3152
Registered: 3-20-2010
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| Quote: |
Answer: Fast enough to reach the coast by sunset, slow enough to keep the Tecate from splashing in your lap. |
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bajabass
Super Nomad
Posts: 2016
Registered: 10-4-2006
Location: La Paz,BCS
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Mood: Want to fish!!!
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Just buy or rent the ball joint press David, and it is a piece of cake! Yes, use Moog or NAPA, both have zerks, and go get it aligned as soon as you
are done. If you have not yet installed the alignment cam kits in the upper control arms, do it when you change the upper arms. Set them in the
nuetral position and go straight to the shop and get it aligned. If you already have the kits installed, mark each one's position, and reset to the
same, and again, go get it set up immediately! Have Fun!!
Keep your eyes on the road, and your hands upon the wheel!
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BajaNaranja
Nomad
Posts: 158
Registered: 9-10-2006
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Awesome thread -
I'm sure many of you run your rigs down washboarded Baja roads at 40 mph as I do - do you air down?
If so, what kind of PSIs do you run at those speeds?
Last time I left my tires at about 40 as I didn't want the tire deformation at that speed, which would seem to expose the sidewalls to cuts /
damage...
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Maderita
Senior Nomad
Posts: 695
Registered: 12-14-2008
Location: San Diego
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BajaNaranja,
There are a few variables to arrive at your best air pressure. Weight of your vehicle (loaded) and tire size probably being the most important. Also
to consider: How may miles of washboard and how fast is your compressor- is it worth airing down? Sandy surface or hardpack, rocks?
In general, the lighter the vehicle, the less air pressure needed. The bigger the tire, the less air pressure needed.
Lowering air pressure lets the tires absorb the jarring from the little bumps, particularly washboards. Ride comfort improves and rattling noises
diminish. Dental fillings last longer too.
Short answer: A relatively light truck/SUV with oversized tires 18-22 psi. Sandy surface (San Felipe orLaguna Salada for example) maybe 16 psi.
A fully loaded 3/4 ton truck, maybe 24-30 psi.
There will be a lot of different opinions because there are so many variables.
If you want a more precise suggestion for your vehicle, then give us more info:
Make/model of vehicle, additional equipment (weight of gear, camper, etc),
Size, brand, and type of tire (street, all-terrain, mud-terrain)
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 65410
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaNaranja
Awesome thread -
I'm sure many of you run your rigs down washboarded Baja roads at 40 mph as I do - do you air down?
If so, what kind of PSIs do you run at those speeds?
Last time I left my tires at about 40 as I didn't want the tire deformation at that speed, which would seem to expose the sidewalls to cuts /
damage... |
Actually a good subject to discuss... While I would agree that dropping down to 25 psi (or as much as 20, depending on the tire type and vehicle
weight) is very popular to help absorb the bumps... I typically don't. I would rather drive fast enough to only hit the tops of the bumps (washboard
bumps) than to risk flats from the exposed sidewall if deflated too much.
Perhaps because it is a Toyota, but I don't worry about my truck shaking apart like some other brands do on these roads... My third Tacoma and none
have every had a part fail or break on the roads in Baja!
If you want a smoother ride, and won't be driving fast... sure, drop the PSI down and the tires will absorb the stuff that the shocks miss! Also, if
you have a tire that won't easily get a sidewall flat, then try running them at 20 psi (or what works best for your truck ot tire) to smooth the road.
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ELINVESTIG8R
Select Nomad
Posts: 15882
Registered: 11-20-2007
Location: Southern California
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BajaBass thanks for the advice. I have purchased the MOOG parts consisting of the left and right upper control arms. Left and right inner tie rods
with tie rod ends and both lower ball joints and some blue loctite for the inner tie rods. I also bought the Tie-rod tool; CV Boot banding tool;
Pliers for the snap ring on the ball joints. I also bought the ball joint removal and install tool to include an 80 ft-lbs to 250 ft-lbs torque wrench
so I can tighten everything to the proper ft-lbs specs.
I figure I can use the tools again and will probably in fact save myself some money. I’m still waiting for a couple of the aforementioned tools to
arrive so I can start. And yes I will get it in immediately for an alignment. I have a lifetime alignment for the Ranger so there will be no cost to
me. My next project is to buy a rear stabilizer bar for my Ranger.
All the experts I went to see for my body roll problem told me they could not figure it out because all the original parts were on the truck. I kept
telling them I wasn’t crazy and wanted them to figure out why. After looking under a 2003 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L SOHC 4X4 truck I finally figured out
why I was having body roll. I was missing the rear stabilizer bar. When my son had the truck lifted when new they must have removed it. So much for
the experts I went to. I will post before and after shots as I progress slowly through each steps to do it right.
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