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Oso
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Tripe is not intestine. It is stomach lining. Tripas are intestines.
All my childhood I wanted to be older. Now I\'m older and this chitn sucks.
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DanO
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Quote: | Originally posted by Bajahowodd
I'm good with pozole. However. the menudo thing really exemplifies what impoverished cultures do to survive. Tripe? Give me a break.
Maybe it has become some sort of iconic weekend dish, but the bottom line is that its roots come from hungry poor people. Hardly something to
celebrate. IMO |
I like menudo, but I can dig how some might find its textures and aromas hard to get past. Same reason some folks can't deal with any number of more
exotic foods (uni, anyone? Yum.). However, dismissing menudo as poor people's food is just elitist BS. The highly-efficient use of the protein
sources in an animal is something we should encourage, regardless of whether it is economically driven. Many top chefs are doing this now (Michael
Symon, e.g.).
The best menudo I've ever had was at El Campestre in Hollywood, many years ago. Definitely a great hangover cure. The best tripe dish I've ever had
was Callos A La Madrilena, in a little hole in the wall restaurant in Madrid, Spain. Recipe below. Absolutely incredible.
CALLOS A LA MADRILENA
Amount Measure Ingredient -- Preparation Method
-------- ------------ --------------------------------
1 lb “honeycomb” tripe
1/2 c Dry white wine
1 sm Tomato, chopped
1 Pig’s foot or veal knuckle,
-split in half
2 Sprigs parsley
10 Peppercorns, lightly crushed
2 Cloves, crushed
1 d Of nutmeg
2 Bay leaves
1/2 ts Dried thyme, or equivalent
-amount of fresh
Salt
1 sm Onion, coarsely chopped
6 Cloves garlic, peeled
2 tb Olive oil
1 sm Onion, finely chopped
1/4 lb Chorizo (or Italian
-sausage), in 1/4-inch
-slices
1/4 c Diced cured (unsmoked) ham
1 tb Flour
1 tb Sweet red (Spanish) paprika
1/2 Dried red chili pepper,
-crumbled (remove seeds if
-you wish)
To serve 4 - 6 as a main course, or make 12 - 18 tapas:
Rinse the tripe well, then put it into a rather large kettle and add cold water to cover. Bring to a boil, then drain immediately. Cut the tripe
into 1 1/2-inch squares and return it to the empty kettle. Add 3 cups cold water and the wine, tomato, pig’s foot or veal knuckle, parsley,
peppercorns, cloves, nutmeg, bay leaves, thyme, salt to taste, coarsely chopped onion and the garlic. Cover and simmer over low heat for 4 to 5
hours, until the tripe is almost tender.
Heat the oil in a skillet and saute the finely chopped onion until it is wilted. Add the chorizo and ham and cook for 5 minutes. Stir in the flour
and paprika and cook 1 minute more. Add 1/2 cup of the liquid from the tripe kettle, a little at a time, and cook-stir until the mixture thickens.
Add this and the chile to the tripe. Cover and cook 1 - 2 hours more. Remove the cover and continue cooking until the tripe is very tender.
Remove the pig’s foot or veal knuckle from the tripe. Remove and discard all skin, bone and fat. Cut the meat into pieces and stir into the
tripe. Serve in warmed bowls or shallow individual tapa-size dishes. Serve with good crusty bread for sopping up the sauce.
___________________________________________________
Pozole, by the way, which I also like, has much more cultural significance. It was originally an Aztec sacrament that was made from human flesh
cooked with sacred corn. From Wikipedia:
"Since corn was a sacred plant for the Aztecs and other inhabitants of Mesoamerica, pozole was made to be consumed on special events. The conjunction
of corn (usually whole hominy kernels) and meat in a single dish is of particular interest to scholars because the ancient Mexicans believed that the
gods made humans out of cornmeal dough. According to research by the National Institute of Anthropology and History and the Universidad Nacional
Autónoma de México, in these special occasions, the meat used in the pozole was human. After the prisoners were killed by having their hearts torn
out in a ritual sacrifice, the rest of the body was chopped and cooked with corn. The meal was shared among the whole community as an act of
religious communion. After the conquest, when cannibalism was banned, pork became the staple meat as it 'tasted very similar,' according to a Spanish
priest."
Hope that doesn't put anybody off their feed.
\"Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.\" -- Frank Zappa
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Skipjack Joe
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Great Stone Soup
Perhaps you have read this one to your kids.
The story is about a traveler who claimed he could make the best soup in the county with a secret stone.
When invited he would ask his host to boil water and then add the rock to it. After it was 'ready' he would taste it and announce that it was perfect
except for one small ingredient. Once added he would try again and again announce that it was 100% better but still need an addition. In went,
potatoes, ham hocks, cabbage and a variety of meats and vegetables.
In this manner all the ingredients of a great soup were added until our hero was finally satisfied. He would then proclaim it was ready and the two
sat down and enjoyed the creation. After the meal the host showered him with praise and welcomed him to come any time to share his stone soup.
Our traveler then picked up his rock, placed it in his satchel, and proceded with his journey.
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Bajahowodd
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"However, dismissing menudo as poor people's food is just elitist BS. The highly-efficient use of the protein sources in an animal is something we
should encourage, regardless of whether it is economically driven. Many top chefs are doing this now (Michael Symon, e.g.)."
Not elitist crap. Fact. It was driven by economics. If I told you I liked menudo, would that change anyhting?
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DanO
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Quote: | Originally posted by Bajahowodd
"However, dismissing menudo as poor people's food is just elitist BS. The highly-efficient use of the protein sources in an animal is something we
should encourage, regardless of whether it is economically driven. Many top chefs are doing this now (Michael Symon, e.g.)."
Not elitist crap. Fact. It was driven by economics. If I told you I liked menudo, would that change anyhting? |
Of course it's a fact that economic necessity drives people to eat things that might not otherwise consider even touching. Duh. That's not my point.
Here's the part of your post I take issue with: "[t]he bottom line is that its roots come from hungry poor people. Hardly something to celebrate."
There are innumerable stories across many cultures (Skipjack Joe's Stone Soup story is a version of one that my Polish grandfather used to tell me all
the time) which celebrate just that -- eking something meaningful or useful out of life despite adversity. Making something from nothing is the
triumph of human spirit and ingenuity. It is something to be venerated, not swept under the rug when times are better and people have higher
standards of living that enable them to, in the words of Marie Antoinette, eat cake. Of course, if you actually do like menudo, then you were arguing
against this principle because . . . ?
\"Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.\" -- Frank Zappa
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mulegejim
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Not sure why Menudo causes so much discussion - I happen to love good Menudo and believe I make a great version. That said, I also like beef and
chicken liver, chicken gizzards and hearts and - believe it or not - chicken feet. Oxtails are also one of my favorites plus roasted beef marrow
bones. Don't like to see good tasting things go to waste. Just throwing in my opinion. Jim
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DanO
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Quote: | Originally posted by mulegejimOxtails are also one of my favorites plus roasted beef marrow bones. |
Oh yeah. Nothing beats a grilled ribeye steak with a scoop of bone marrow melting on top. Well, nothing except maybe a grilled dry-ageed New York
strip with a scoop of crab bernaise sauce melting on top (a great dish they used to serve at Grill 83 in Memphis, TN). (I think my doctor would feel
otherwise about both choices, but screw him.)
\"Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.\" -- Frank Zappa
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Mexitron
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I love menudo when its prepared well...your recipe looks top-notch Dano---thanks for posting.
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Oso
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When I was in school in the D.F., I often went to Toluca for the great market there. A few blocks away there was a great little restaurant in a house
called Las Medulas that specialized in marrow soup. Delicious.
"Wrinkled Steak Special" The best Chitlins (Chitterlings) I've ever had were at Vick's, a Greek owned drive-in in Fayetteville, NC that catered
mainly to Black people. I don't trust Chitlins made by just anyone. That's one thing you really want to know has been cleaned THOROUGHLY. When
cooking, the kitchen aroma can be a bit off-putting. The trick is to leave an open glass of vinegar next to the stove. It works.
All my childhood I wanted to be older. Now I\'m older and this chitn sucks.
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sanquintinsince73
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Menudo?
Oh, the other kind.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PHRjWauwpvE
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mulegejim
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Quote: | Originally posted by DanO
Quote: | Originally posted by mulegejimOxtails are also one of my favorites plus roasted beef marrow bones. |
Oh yeah. Nothing beats a grilled ribeye steak with a scoop of bone marrow melting on top. Well, nothing except maybe a grilled dry-ageed New York
strip with a scoop of crab bernaise sauce melting on top (a great dish they used to serve at Grill 83 in Memphis, TN). (I think my doctor would feel
otherwise about both choices, but screw him.) |
DanO, couldn't agree more with you - never been to Grill 83 but if I am in the area some time will give it a try. Jim
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Gypsy Jan
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Tripe
Interview with Warren Jones about his family's history in the tripe business.
25th March 01
"Before the Great Depression settled over Australia, Fred Jones worked in the tripe shed at the Homebush abattoirs. Many of the men living in
adjoining suburbs were employed at the meat works or in allied industries. Early in the 30's Warren's father along with many others lost their jobs.
Tripe was what he knew most about; and still having contacts at the abattoirs he decided to sell tripe himself. So daily he bought small quantities of
prepared tripe from the abattoirs and sold it door to door from the carrier basket of his bicycle. This kept the family going and his customers, no
doubt affected themselves by the Depression, depended on cheap food such as tripe and other offal as well as the wares of rabbitos, who also sold door
to door
When he heard that Americans were using sodium peroxide as a bleaching agent to make tripe look more appealing. Fred adopted the same process Until
then the tripe sold was an unattractive grey-green.
At first, bleaching was done in a bathtub. Then Fred built cement vats in the backyard of the rented house the family lived in and took on more of the
preparation. The use of a horse and cart and then a Chevvy panel van reflected the growth of the business. Two of his three sons joined Fred in the
business as it expanded. At its busiest, it provided work for eight men, including Warren, who handled the paperwork. A team of delivery men did
weekly rounds of all the butcher shops as far afield as Canberra..
But trouble lay ahead in the 80's. The bleaching process raised the pH level from a natural 6-7 to nearer 10. While this did not affect the
nutritional value of the tripe it did result in the retention of more water and the Health Department and its food inspectors claimed this defrauded
the buyers. The Jones were told to reduce the pH level or be fined.
7
And fined they were, since it was impossible to conform. In their worst year they paid fines amounting to $20,000. Others in the same business gave up
the fight with bureaucracy but the Jones held the fort. Eventually Warren and his brothers managed to get all the officials involved to meet and talk
over their differences; and the Jones' case won the day.
Since the closure of the Homebush abattoirs, the Jones, who today are Sydney's chief suppliers of tripe to retail outlets, have had to look to country
and interstate abattoirs for their stock.
At the end of the 80's the firm of F.M.Jones were processing 8,000 kilos of tripe a week. Today the demand has fallen off, probably because in these
times- at least on the domestic level- the emphasis is on simpler, more easily prepared foods. Current production is more like 4000 kilos weekly which
is delivered throughout the Sydney Metropolitan area, Wollongong and Newcastle and as far as Canberra
The vast amount of tripe produced today is exported (Check to find out quantity and who are the buyers).
Apart from bovine tripe the Jones also handle sheep tripe- a sac about the size of a large grapefruit. The demand comes from Scots, of course, who
need it for haggis in December, but this is a very small amount. The Greek community buy as much lamb paunch as they can get for their Easter feast
days. At this time of the year, the Jones deliver as much as 5000 kilos to Greek butchers alone, each lamb paunch weighing about 4-500 grms. To meet
the demand for fresh unfrozen tripe, supplies have to be brought in from interstate, particularly Victoria. But it is the Lebanese communities who
generate a year-round demand for sheep tripe, which is eaten stuffed with a variety of fillings. (see recipes)..
Today the third generation runs the firm of F.M Jones, the state's major supplier of offal meats. Marrick (Rick)Jones, one of the principals, asked
what his favourite tripe dish was, replied: "We don't eat tripe".
Not if you live with it all your life.
*****
The Sydney Greek community, particularly followers of the Greek Orthodox Church, consume large quantities of sheep tripe at Easter. The month
preceeding Easter is customarily one of fasting, during which no meat, dairy foods or even fish are eaten. The daily diet during the month of fasting
consists mainly of salads, potatoes, aubergines, beans and okra.
The fast is broken at midnight on Easter Saturday and after mass families go home to a traditional meal of soup made from tripe, and other offal meats
including liver, lungs and heart, finely chopped. After a month of fasting, the assumption is that stomachs are weak and tripe is most easily
digestible. Tripe dishes are also served on Easter Sunday, with avgolimono sauce (egg and lemon) or a sauce using onions, tomatoes and the more usual
Mediterranean ingredients.
*****
Stephanie Alexander in her book "The Cook's Companion" has some interesting observations - and some fine recipes- concerning tripe.
"Only eyeballs seem to strike more terror into the hearts and minds than does tripe! Tripe also has an image problem as the word has come to mean
"rubbish" or "nonsense" and as it is associated with northern-English nostalgia- flat caps, poverty and grime….Tripe haters speak disparagingly of its
slippery texture, which is just the thing tripe lovers enjoy, along with its mild flavour and ability to meld with sticky meats and other flavours to
result in delicious saucy dishes."
"Italians cook beautiful tripe dishes with rich tomato flavours and parmesan cheese. The Chinese, who love textured food, are good with tripe, too.
One of the most delicious and lip-sticking specialities at yum cha is tripe with ginger in a golden sticky sauce."
Most people regard animal innards with revulsion, some to the point of refusing to eat offal in any shape or form. This prejudice is despite the fact
that a multitude of delicious dishes featuring offal are prepared and served by the world's best chefs and consumed by battalions of appreciative
gourmets. Clubs are formed solely for the appreciation and consumption of offal. Sydney's Tripe Club is just one.
The very name "offal" would deter most eaters other than the connoisseurs, but let's look at some of the other names used to describe animal entrails.
SLUMGULLION was a word invented in the 19th century to describe the innards of a gutted fish and gleefully taken up by whalers who then passed it on
to American gold rush cooks who used it to describe a kind of hash or stew. In other words, a nasty mess.
GUTS- still in favour, usually in a pejorative sense.
MUNDUNGUS derives from mondongo, the Spanish word for tripe and is used in Mexican cuisine to describe a stew of maize and tripe.
TRILLIBUB and TROLLIBAGS of unknown origin, but an intriguing name for tripe with appealing onomatopaeic qualities.
GARBAGE-not so obvious a word to today's English -speaking housewife other than as a name for kitchen refuse, but six centuries ago, she would have
used it to describe a dish containing offal which her family was expected to attack with relish in the commonly held belief that organ meat was
fortifying...By the beginning of the 16th century, offal and its descriptive word "garbage" had fallen out of favour and the word garbage took on
another meaning. Offal was then relegated to an inferior status in British cuisine.
UMBLES. Once a popular dish, especially among hunters, umble pie contained the intestine meat of deer, known as "umbles". As time went by, this food
also fell into disfavour with the elite and by the early 19th century, the term "to eat humble pie" was reserved for those suffering humiliation.
(Ref Cupboard Love- a Dictionary of Culinary Curiosities. By Mark Morton. pub. Bain & Cox, Winnipeg.)
GODEBILLIOS: Rabellais found it necessary to invent his own word for tripe. He describes the birth of Gargantua as having been accelerated after his
mother, Garganella had consumed a huge dish of "godebillios" - the tripes of stall-fattened oxen.
Even today, the word "tripe", apart from its culinary meaning still carries the taint of abuse. "That's a load of tripe!" or "He talks tripe." casts a
shadow on the word, for all our good intentions.. However, to facts.
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness.”
—Mark Twain
\"La vida es dura, el corazon es puro, y cantamos hasta la madrugada.” (Life is hard, the heart is pure and we sing until dawn.)
—Kirsty MacColl, Mambo de la Luna
\"Alea iacta est.\"
—Julius Caesar
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Gypsy Jan
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Tripe a la Mode de Caen Recipe
Title: Tripe A La Mode De Caen
Yield: 8 Servings
Ingredients
3 lb fresh tripe
1 calve's foot; split
2 lb onions; sliced
1/4 lb beef suet
1 onion; stuck with
3 cloves
1 bay leaf
1 bouquet garni*
1/4 c calvados*
1 cider; or water, to cover
Instructions
*Bouquet Garni: Tie in a bunch 3 sprigs each parsley and chevril with
2 sprigs fresh thyme. *Calvados is a French apple brandy. You may
substitute regular brandy and use cider instead of water.
Read about tripe. Trim, wash, soak, blanch, wash again, drain and cut
into 1 1/2" pieces. Wash and blanche a calve's foot. Peel and slice
the onions. Dice the suet.
Line the bottom of a casserole with a layer of onions, then a layer of
tripe and a sprinkling of suet. Continue to build layers and top woth
the calve's foot and clove studded onion, a bay leaf and the bouquet
garni. Pour over this the Calvados or brandy and enough water or
cider to cover.
Bring just to a boil. Seal the casserolw with a strip of pie pastry
dough and bake in a preheated 250 oven for 12 hours. When ready to
serve break the seal, remove the bouquet garni, bay leaf and whole
onion. Degrease the sauce and pick the meat from the calve's foot.
Return the meat to the casserole to heat through and serve in
preheated individual small casseroles with boiled parsley potatoes.
From the Joy of Cooking.
The New York Times Cook Book suggests the following variations: use 4
calve's feet, add carrots, leeks and celery, lots of coarse freshly
ground black pepper and 1/2 cup Calvados.
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness.”
—Mark Twain
\"La vida es dura, el corazon es puro, y cantamos hasta la madrugada.” (Life is hard, the heart is pure and we sing until dawn.)
—Kirsty MacColl, Mambo de la Luna
\"Alea iacta est.\"
—Julius Caesar
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MitchMan
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For those of you who think menudo is disgusting and is without the integrity of acceptable food because of its being another disgusting poor man's
food, ever hear of Irish Stew and its genesis?
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Cypress
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Eating guts? Chittlins? Really like gizzards and hearts in gimblet gravy! Other than that, not a big fan of guts.
Mullet gizzards are good! One of those down home treats!
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mulegemichael
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sorry gypsy...nice, really nice story but it's the damn texture that gets me....it was sprung on me once at christmas; my girlfriend made a nice big
ol vat of it up and served it up with all the family....everyone just started scooping it up ravenously and it tried it and first scoop got a big ol
chunk of "the stuff" and actually made a huge gringo spitup...screwup...etc..what a sissy!
dyslexia is never having to say you\'re yrros.
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mulegejim
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Well, just to add a little to these posts I'll throw this in - there is one brand of canned Menudo I happen to like. That would be Juanita's - better
than many restaurant offerings. I live in San Clemente, CA and there is a place here where I go to for Menudo called La Siesta. Jim
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MitchMan
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mulegejim,
There's a place in Capistrano that serves the best menudo in the world. Only firm meat, lots of it, hence very rich broth. It is located in a
small strip center next to the freeway, at the south end of town on Camino Capistrano, CA. I believe the name of it is El Molino de Oro. They have
inside seating and a buffet type of service where you stand in front of a glass partition through which you look at the steam table of food and give
your order to a cook behind the glass and steam table. The cook serves up your food and you go to the right and pay for it at the cash register. You
take your food on a tray and seat yourself. Prices are reasonable. Quality is their ethic. Best down home absolutely authentic homemade Mexican
food that I have ever found anywhere. It's been there for years.
Problem is, the menudo there has made all other menudos that I have had in Baja seem watery, diluted, and lack luster. Still looking for good menudo
in La Paz, not giving up on that. Open to referrals.
Problem with making menudo myself is that for the first two hours of cooking, it stinks up the house for everyone else (not me, though). The smell
changes at the end of the cooking process to a more tolerable smell (still talking about other people, not me, the smell just reminds me of home).
So, I am not really permitted to cook any.
[Edited on 9-26-2011 by MitchMan]
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mulegejim
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Quote: | Originally posted by MitchMan
mulegejim,
There's a place in Capistrano that serves the best menudo in the world. Only firm meat, lots of it, hence very rich broth. It is located in a
small strip center next to the freeway, at the south end of town on Camino Capistrano, CA. I believe the name of it is El Molino de Oro. They have
inside seating and a buffet type of service where you stand in front of a glass partition through which you look at the steam table of food and give
your order to a cook behind the glass and steam table. The cook serves up your food and you go to the right and pay for it at the cash register. You
take your food on a tray and seat yourself. Prices are reasonable. Quality is their ethic. Best down home absolutely authentic homemade Mexican
food that I have ever found anywhere. It's been there for years.
Problem is, the menudo there has made all other menudos that I have had in Baja seem watery, diluted, and lack luster. Still looking for good menudo
in La Paz, not giving up on that. Open to referrals.
Problem with making menudo myself is that for the first two hours of cooking, it stinks up the house for everyone else (not me, though). The smell
changes at the end of the cooking process to a more tolerable smell (still talking about other people, not me, the smell just reminds me of home).
So, I am not really permitted to cook any.
[Edited on 9-26-2011 by MitchMan] |
I'll give El Molino de Oro a try first chance I get. Jim
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