dtbushpilot
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3290
Registered: 1-11-2007
Location: Buena Vista BCS
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Mood: Tranquilo
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dt and Ged's excellent baja adventure ride. Day 5, La Purisma to San Miguel/San Jose Comondu and back to LP the hard way.
Since before this trip started I knew that Ged wanted to spend some time exploring San Jose/ Miguel Comondu....and so did I. Shari Bondy (Bahia
Asuncion) had posted a story a while ago about the area and I/we were looking forward to some exploration of the area. I had assumed correctly that
one day wouldn't be sufficient to explore the area but that's what we had, we could always change our plans if we needed to....but I'm getting ahead
of myself....we had to get there first.
We asked our host about taking the Northern route to SJMC (that's how I will refer to it for this story) and he said that it was not possible, the
road was washed out. He recommended that we take the southern route in. Ged's buddies had planned to go through SJMC via the Northern route and on
through San Javier on their trip South so we couldn't help but wonder how they made out.
After some discussion it was decided that we would take the Southern route (modified of course) in and inquire about the Northern route as a possible
return path when we got there.
After a filling breakfast of water and a granola bar ( we still hadn't found food) we hit the road. We proceeded South on the tarmac looking for a
dirt road "short cut" that would speed us on our way. We found the turn off and were going along just fine when Ged came to a stop in the middle of
the trail. Staring at his GPS he stated (confidently I might add) that we were going the wrong way, we should have turned right a few clicks back. I
pointed out that the route shown on my MAP indicated NO right turns from our current course to our destination. Ged was quick to point out that I
wasn't in possession of the state of the art navigation equipment as was he and I should STFU and follow him....he didn't say it like that but I got
the feeling that he wanted to.
So, back we went and turned off on the correct (according to Ged) trail. We stopped a ways down the road and I pointed out to Ged that there weren't
any vehicle tracks on this trail, only some cattle tracks.....Not to worry he replied, it's right here on the GPS, lets push on...
After a while the trail turned into a path that turned into an arroyo that turned into a bunch of deep sand and bushes that the cattle weren't even
going through.....
This is where it still looked like a trail...
I knew Ged wasn't enjoying our "as the crow flies" route but damned if he would admit that his GPS could be leading us astray. Sure enough, after
crashing through miles of brush and traversing miles of endless sand woops (OK, I'm embellishing a bit here) we found a dirt road and followed it to
the pavement. My GPS (I had one hidden) showed that we had saved about 1 mile of pavement in our short cut....I mean "alternate route". So be it, we
were on our way....
There was new pavement most of the way to the town followed by a few miles of dirt road through the valley. This place is magical and pictures can't
capture it. I will be posting a few but I recommend that you see Ged's thread on advrider for better pic's.
We rode around a bit and looked for a place to eat.....no luck, so we stopped at a tienda for a Fanta naranja and a bag of chips....2 of the major
food groups covered ( salt and preservatives). I was struck by how quiet the town was as we sat on the steps of the tienda. We spoke (kinda) to a
local resident asking about the Northern route to La Purisma, he said "no es possible". We asked about the possibility of making it on a motorcycle
and he said "maybe"..."7 guys came through here a couple of days ago on motorcycles".....OK, that settles it, if Ged's buddies made it (on dirt bikes,
not dual sport sleds) we would at least have to give it a try......Peer pressure can be a funny thing.....and sometimes not so funny....
So with a renewed spirit of adventure we saddled up and headed North out of town.
We crossed the valley and headed up a rocky hill out of town. I was content following Mr. GPS up the next rocky hill, and the next....and across the
rocky plateau to the next rocky hill and down the rocky trail ahead to the rutted rocky uphill that lay ahead to the rocky trail where I think I saw a
bit of dirt below the rocks.....and then he stopped and stared at his GPS for a while......"Does your map show a place called Cerro Colorado"? he
asked.....Yes, I replied, but it's not on the road to where we are going.....Well, we're almost there he replied, guess we'd better turn around and go
back to SJMC.....That's just great, 5 miles of rocks for nothing....10 if we go back.....but back we went.
So, we made it back to where we should have turned off and turned off there. After a bit we came to the bottom of a particularly intimidating rocky
uphill and we stopped. Ged referred to his electronic tour guide and proudly proclaimed that we were on the right road.
In the planning stages of this days ride we had considered the possibility that the Northern route may be more than we wanted to tackle on our dual
sport bikes and we agreed that we could always turn around and head back if the going got too rough........sure, if you're wearing a skirt you
can.....
So, there we were at the base of the first imposing obstacle (after the first 10 miles of torture we encountered following Mr. GPS) with a decision to
make. Looking up the hill before us Ged asked "do you really want to ride 25 more miles of this crap or should we turn around and go back the way we
came in?".....
This is where I made a Freudian slip that I would later regret. What I meant to say was "heck no I don't want to ride 25 more miles of rocks, let's go
back" but what came out was a challenge of his manhood and a question of his sexual orientation for even suggesting such a thing........so on we
went....
Peer pressure is a funny thing. It seems to be much more a "man thing" than a woman thing. My wife thinks I'm juvenile and act like a 15 year old
around my buddies because I succumb to peer pressure and do stupid stuff.....she' right, I, like most men never got past my 15yr old mentality when it
comes to peer pressure......fortunately, neither has Ged....this is going to be fun....
So, we continued on up one rocky hill and down the next. The trail wasn't getting any better but we were making progress till we came upon a long
valley where the road disappeared into a ravine of television sized boulders.
This picture is before the bad place.....
I looked ahead and in the only patch of dirt for miles I could make out motorcycle tracks....Ged's buddies had indeed been through here. We wouldn't
be able to turn back now, you could cut the peer pressure with a knife....
I walked the route we would have to take to be sure it was doable. Unfortunately for Ged, it was....barely....so off we went. I lead the way through,
my 34" inseam helping me reach the ground...or the next rock as there wasn't any "ground" to be found. Ged wouldn't be so lucky with his 26"
inseam......
Ged gripped the bars like a rodeo cowboy grabbing the horns of a raging bull. Gritting his teeth with determination he attacked the rocky section like
a man possessed.
Oh, look at that pretty rock....I think I'll have a closer look..
Yep, that's pretty all right, wish I could get my leg out from under my motorcycle....
Hey Ged, where you going, come back.....
After slaying the rocky dragon we made it back to San Isidro and eventually La Purisma.
Where I headed straight for the tienda for some beer. I picked up a 6 pack and rode back to the motel. There was a couple from Colorado there and the
new Canadian ambassador to La Purisma (Ged) was giving them the rundown of our adventure. They were a really nice couple and the girl was a dirt bike
rider wishing she could partake in such an adventure. I didn't say much at first as I felt like I was holding the 1000lb elephant in the room.....the
6 pack of beer. I was really thirsty after our ordeal and I assumed that Ged was too and I didn't think 4 beers would be enough for the two of us so I
was reluctant to offer our new friends a beer.......but after a long uncomfortable break in the conversation I relented and offered them a beer. They
declined....Oh happy days, let the hydration begin.....
We had hydration and adult beverages covered but what we really needed was food, that granola bar for breakfast wore off a long time ago. I suggested
a trip to a well stocked tienda that I had checked out the day before. They seemed to have all the necessities of life and it didn't take us long to
gather up the necessary ingredients of a Baja feast.
We retreated back to the motel with our bounty, staked a claim to an outside table and commenced to prepare a meal fit for kings. We made chicken
bologna burritos with goat cheese, avocados, tomatoes, cucumbers, and re-fried beans with potato chips and Fanta naranja to wash it down.
Half way through our feast our hostess Quilthy happened by and recoiled in horror at what she saw. She scolded us for eating such fare but by then we
were stuffed and content.
We retreated to our chairs in front of our rooms and reflected on the days events feeling pretty pleased with ourselves for taking on and completing a
tough challenge. After a while a man appeared and started talking to us in Spanish (of course) We did our best to follow along and it seemed that he
was asking if we would like to come to his place for breakfast in the morning. I confidently took over the conversation and made reservations with him
to have breakfast at 8:30 the next day......or we were going to fix breakfast for him tomorrow at 8:30.....I wasn't sure which but I figured we would
sort it out tomorrow morning. He pointed out where he lived, we smiled and nodded our heads knowing that a new Baja adventure awaited us tomorrow and
beyond......
To be continued.....
[Edited on 3-21-2011 by dtbushpilot]
[Edited on 3-21-2011 by dtbushpilot]
"Life is tough".....It's even tougher if you're stupid.....
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motoged
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Mood: Gettin' Better
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Uhhhh, that is a 29" inseam, stretch
After that ride and your encouragement/questioning of my manhood, I remember saying something about your judgement...and you pointed out "My
judgement is not to be trusted!".
A great perspective on the ride...has me snorting with laughter 
Don't believe everything you think....
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wessongroup
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 21152
Registered: 8-9-2009
Location: Mission Viejo
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Mood: Suicide Hot line ... please hold
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Thanks much... that was some ride.. still not sure about that meal... given your location... but, as for adventure looking good
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TMW
Select Nomad
Posts: 10659
Registered: 9-1-2003
Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Thanks, loving it all. I last rode from La Purisima to San Javier in 92 and I don't remember any rocks like you rode over. The hurricanes must have
really messed the road up.
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Paula
Super Nomad
Posts: 2219
Registered: 1-5-2006
Location: Loreto
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What a great trip report! It really makes me appreciate being a girl, and being able to simply get into my Honda and drive to these lovely little
towns You give new meaning to the thought that getting there is half
the fun.
So last time my girlfriends and i drove to La Purisima we ate at the restaurant in front of the hotel. I hope they are still in business, because
their sopes were delicious, and as good as those burritos look (minus the boloney of course) we are always happy not to prepare our own food
Thanks to both of you for taking the time to send out these great illustrated reports, and happy trails to you!
[Edited on 3-23-2011 by Paula]
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willyAirstream
Super Nomad
Posts: 1786
Registered: 1-1-2010
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Excellent report, very entertaining!
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Love your trip reports David... another A on your card!
Any chance I can get you to take highlighter to a map and show us the roads/ trails you rode... ?
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BornFisher
Super Nomad
Posts: 2107
Registered: 1-11-2005
Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
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Fantastic!!! i`m enjoying every word!!
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13048
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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DT...you rule dude....love your style man.
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dtbushpilot
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3290
Registered: 1-11-2007
Location: Buena Vista BCS
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Mood: Tranquilo
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Love your trip reports David... another A on your card!
Any chance I can get you to take highlighter to a map and show us the roads/ trails you rode... ?
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I would DK but I don't know how.....dt
"Life is tough".....It's even tougher if you're stupid.....
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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If the map I put above covers the area well enough, let me know... You can use your mouse to (right click) 'Save Picture As...' then make a copy of it
on your printer from the file where you saved the map/ picture at. Take a highlighter or draw arrows along roads used or draw in roads not on the map.
Scan the customized map. Upload it to Photobucket, and post it!
Easy right??? 
It's what I did for each new map I drew of Mike's trip! 
You could come over here to O'side and we could do it here!
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motoged
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Mood: Gettin' Better
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DK,
We took the main gravel road from the paved highway on the east side of Baja ...then the main road west out of LP down to Tres Marias....where the
shortcut southeast started to the main paved road to Los Comondus.
The we rode north to LP via the road through El Pabillon....
Don't expect DT to do all that coloring...he didn't do well in kindergarten...
Don't believe everything you think....
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mcfez
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8678
Registered: 12-2-2009
Location: aka BN yankeeirishman
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Got to tell you guys that I feel like I am right there on the road with ya! This has been an excellent post. Txs!
Love that brick ceiling at the Church.....whoa!
Old people are like the old cars, made of some tough stuff. May show a little rust, but good as gold on the inside.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by motoged
DK,
We took the main gravel road from the paved highway on the east side of Baja ...then the main road west out of LP down to Tres Marias....where the
shortcut southeast started to the main paved road to Los Comondus.
The we rode north to LP via the road through El Pabillon....
Don't expect DT to do all that coloring...he didn't do well in kindergarten... |
Thanks Ged... so you went to La Purisima twice... then back to Hwy. 1 south of Bahia Concepcion (where you started the dirt road trip)?
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motoged
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
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Mood: Gettin' Better
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DK,
No...we first rode to LP from bottom of Concepcion and stayed in LP; the next day we did a loop from LP via west and south on pavement to Tres Marias
"shortcut" to paved road into Los Comondus....and then dirt back to LP where we spent a second night....before heading back towards San Ignacio via
west coast...
Don't believe everything you think....
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Ah, so... you did go to La Purisima twice... but then went to San Ignacio via the Pacific side road. I haven't read that chapter yet!
Thanks for the clarification, eh!
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ArvadaGeorge
Nomad
Posts: 358
Registered: 9-2-2003
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Please post a link to the ADV. Rider posts
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ncampion
Super Nomad
Posts: 1238
Registered: 4-15-2006
Location: Loreto
Member Is Offline
Mood: Retired and Loving it
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Love your trip reports David... another A on your card!
Any chance I can get you to take highlighter to a map and show us the roads/ trails you rode... ?
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Or better yet, did you save a GPS trackof the route. I rode from Loreto via San Jose / San Miguel Comondu around the back way to San Javier last
Spring and I think I know of the rocky sections you mention. Like banging your head on a wall, it feels good when it's over.
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motoged
Elite Nomad
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Member Is Offline
Mood: Gettin' Better
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| Quote: | Originally posted by ArvadaGeorge
Please post a link to the ADV. Rider posts |
AG,
I did that earlier...here it is again:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=666961
Don't believe everything you think....
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