redhilltown
Super Nomad
Posts: 1130
Registered: 1-24-2009
Location: Long Beach, CA
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Quick trip Guadalupe Valley/Puerto Santo Tomas
Just back from a four day trip to Baja to escape the noise of the Long Beach Grand Prix (yeah...it's great unless you're not into it and live next
door). We crossed at Tecate with the usual no problems or lines. Road is fine for the most part. Tasted at Domecq where we always find good enough
wines and a stunning view...just a good place to "land" and relax a bit. Per a couple of suggestions from Nomads we found (and you do have to find it
a bit) Malagon winery and had an absolute blast. Good wines and great people. Highly recommend it. AnnaRosa was our host and man is she a firecracker!
Continued down to fish at Puerto Santo Tomas and hang out with Sam Saenz the owner. Will never understand why his place is not more popular though I'm
sure the 45 minute dirt road thru the beautiful valley is part of it...but sheesh, it's Baja and should be an adventure. We stayed in his largest
house right on the water...amazing views and so close to the U.S. yet soooo far away. Ling Cod, rockfish, whitefish made for a tasty catch. Pan fried
ling cod collar fresh from the ocean in butter and spices? Not too shabby. Sam has a new website at : http://www.puertosantotomas.com/
No checkpoint at Maneadero and the new road there is fantastic.
Crossed at TJ about noon with an hour wait. Another great lil trip to Baja.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Great report! The site of 'God and Mr. Gomez' fame, yes?
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
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Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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| Quote: | Originally posted by redhilltown
Will never understand why his place is not more popular though I'm sure the 45 minute dirt road thru the beautiful valley is part of it...but sheesh,
it's Baja and should be an adventure. |
That road probably wouldn't even exist if not for the Cemex mine out there.
Little do they know that their road is primarily responsible for the book, "God and Mr. Gomez" and a lot of interest in Baja, so the next time you buy
a sack of Cemex Cement, say thank you.
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15939
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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i'm going to drag my boat out there this summer and check it out.
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DanO
Super Nomad
Posts: 1923
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: Not far from the Pacific
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| Quote: | Originally posted by DENNIS
| Quote: | Originally posted by redhilltown
Will never understand why his place is not more popular though I'm sure the 45 minute dirt road thru the beautiful valley is part of it...but sheesh,
it's Baja and should be an adventure. |
That road probably wouldn't even exist if not for the Cemex mine out there.
Little do they know that their road is primarily responsible for the book, "God and Mr. Gomez" and a lot of interest in Baja, so the next time you buy
a sack of Cemex Cement, say thank you. |
The original road was used to bring goods in from ships anchored at the port during the mission era, when Santo Tomas was the state capital.
Cemex was likely the impetus for maintaining the road in the recent past (at least up until the Punta China turnoff just before you reach the coast),
but there has been a huge expansion of agribusiness into the Santo Tomas River valley in the past few years and I think that the farms are now the
main reason for the existence of the road. A couple of little villages have sprung up along the road to house the expanding number of farmworkers,
who have cars or are ferried around in buses. Semi-trucks carrying the produce are in and out of there all the time. So the road needs to be
maintained for those purposes, at least until the end of the largest farms a few miles inland from La Bocana (at which point the road reverts to its
evil old rocky, washboardy self all the way to the port).
There are some very recent signs of further improvement, including new kilometer markers the whole length of the road, cactus plantings along some of
the steeper and erosion prone stretches, a pending short extension of the concrete pavement off of the main highway into Ejido Ajusco, and an
expansion of the electrical services in that area.
One more amazing sign of development -- there is now a fine (if you believe their signs) dining restaurant in Ejido Ajusco. I drove by a few weeks
ago and one of those shiny new Ford Raptor F150s was parked in front, along with a few other vehicles that seemed oddly out of place in that dusty
little village. We had already had lunch, so we didn't stop. It's up a side street that's a block or so before the baseball field. Their signs
indicate they have a Sunday buffet lunch. Anyone eaten there yet?
\"Without deviation from the norm, progress is not possible.\" -- Frank Zappa
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redhilltown
Super Nomad
Posts: 1130
Registered: 1-24-2009
Location: Long Beach, CA
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Maybe I'm wrong but it seems just a matter of time until the road is paved as the money pouring into the valley from the agriculture interests is
impressive...and I'm sure Punta China would pitch in a buck or two. As of now they take there "goods" to Ensenada by barge which is actually an old
ship that they tow filled with cement. It is an amazing site to be near it...a ghost ship with all the dust flying off of it...very strange.
That valley and area is where I would want to be when the big one hits...decent amounts of water, produce, cattle, and all the seafood you could hope
for!
Didn't notice the restaurant DanO but they were doing some road work so we didnt drive thru the town proper...sure would be a sign of progress!!!!!
But with all the new warehouses and buildings and workers it makes sense.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64855
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Anything new on the exotic temples built just south, along the coast?
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DanO
Super Nomad
Posts: 1923
Registered: 8-26-2003
Location: Not far from the Pacific
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| Quote: | Originally posted by redhilltown
Maybe I'm wrong but it seems just a matter of time until the road is paved as the money pouring into the valley from the agriculture interests is
impressive...and I'm sure Punta China would pitch in a buck or two. As of now they take there "goods" to Ensenada by barge which is actually an old
ship that they tow filled with cement. It is an amazing site to be near it...a ghost ship with all the dust flying off of it...very strange.
That valley and area is where I would want to be when the big one hits...decent amounts of water, produce, cattle, and all the seafood you could hope
for!
Didn't notice the restaurant DanO but they were doing some road work so we didnt drive thru the town proper...sure would be a sign of progress!!!!!
But with all the new warehouses and buildings and workers it makes sense. |
One of the local fishermen told me that over time that limestone dust from the barge has blanketed the sea floor and had a detrimental effect on the
fish and shellfish populations. The rumor a few years ago was that they were going to run a paved road past past the area some miles inland as part
of the Punta Colonet project, but nothing ever came of it. I like the unpaved road -- as Sergio Gomez told told me once when I complained about the
condition of the road, "think of it as a filter."
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redhilltown
Super Nomad
Posts: 1130
Registered: 1-24-2009
Location: Long Beach, CA
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Don't get me wrong: I like it too!!!! I hope it is never paved though I certainly feel sorry for the people living next to it and the god awful dust
they endure. Quite a sight as you well know to drive down the valley in the summer and see brown/red plants from all the dirt being kicked up.
I love the "filter" comment as it is so true. I am part of the group that is very sad to see the filter being removed from the road to Gonzaga Bay.
But I doubt the road past La Bocana will ever ever get paved so we'll have that to count on!
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