Gypsy Jan
Ultra Nomad
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Crime In Mexico: Is Baja Safe For Travelers?
by Dave Seminara
"Fifteen years ago, my brother who lives near San Diego took me to coastal Baja in Mexico and the experience has stayed with me ever since. We ate
fish tacos, went swimming at a sublime, deserted beach and fell asleep on the beach to the sounds of the surf. In December, I'm heading west to visit
my brother again, this time with my wife and sons, ages 3 and 5, but when I asked him to take me back to the same places we visited long ago he told
me that it wasn't safe.
"No one goes down there any more," he said. "Those places are all ghost towns."
And after contacting Budget, the company we'd reserved a car with at its LAX location, and being told that we weren't allowed to take our rental car
down to Mexico, I wondered if perhaps my brother was right.
Crime in Mexico is serious business and anyone who suggests that safety isn't a legitimate concern is kidding themselves. But I've been traveling to
different parts of Mexico for years, including recent trips in 2009, 2010 and 2011, and I still believe that there are parts of the country that are
safe to visit.
In March, I wrote a piece about safety in Puerto Vallarta in the wake of an armed robbery incident involving cruise ship passengers, citing crime
statistics indicating that several U.S. cities have higher murder rates than Puerto Vallarta. The post generated nearly 100 comments, with readers
deeply divided on the issue of safety in Mexico.
The U.S. Consulate in Tijuana has a useful page on how to avoid being a victim of crime in Baja with a host of common sense tips, such as stay sober
and avoid traveling at night. The most recent State Department travel warning for Mexico, issued in February 2012, has the following segment on the
safety situation in northern Baja.
You should exercise caution in the northern state of Baja California, particularly at night. Targeted TCO assassinations continue to take place in
Baja California. Turf battles between criminal groups proliferated and resulted in numerous assassinations in areas of Tijuana frequented by U.S.
citizens. Shooting incidents, in which innocent bystanders have been injured, have occurred during daylight hours throughout the city. In one such
incident, a U.S. citizen was shot and seriously wounded. According to the Government of Mexico, as of August 2011, the city's murder rate was
approximately 20 per 100,000. During 2011, 34 U.S. citizens were the victims of homicide in the state. In the majority of these cases, the
Most observers agree that southern Baja, including Cabo San Lucas is generally regarded as safe. But in an effort to help readers decide if northern
Baja is safe to visit, I reached out to two writers with extensive experience there. Nikki Goth Itoi is the author of the indispensable Moon Guide to
Baja, the guidebook you want to pick up if you are considering a visit to Baja. And Carla White, a resident of the Ensenada vicinity for ten years, is
the editor of Baja.com , a terrific resource for anyone planning a visit to the region.
Mexico has gotten a lot of negative publicity due to the narco-violence there. How has that impacted Baja?
Tijuana is a much more interesting place now for visitors because it's become a city for locals. All the tourism dried up, so now it's a local scene.
There are galleries, cafés, artsy places that don't just cater to people from San Diego popping over for the night. It's not as Americanized.
What safety tips do you have for visitors to Baja?
In terms of safety, all the basics apply. Be careful where you go. Don't go out late at night. Don't go to the red light districts. Be as
inconspicuous as possible. Stay in well-lit places and don't drive at night. It comes down to common sense in traveling to a foreign country. There's
going to be petty crime and that kind of stuff happens.
You have two young boys, ages 6 and 4, would you hesitate to take them to northern Baja right now?
No, I wouldn't at all. I'm planning that trip right now.
Some would call you crazy, right?
People have this sense that Mexico is to be avoided, period. Rosarito is a ghost town. But those who live down there think there's a comeback in the
making in northern Baja and it's centered on food and wine.
People have to do what they are comfortable with. If you're worried about safety and headlines you saw in the news, you're not going to have a good
time. I don't try to win people over.
Crime in Mexico is covered in the U.S. media more than crime in U.S. cities is. If you look at crime data for major U.S. cities, the numbers are lower
in Baja. If they're not comfortable, some are better off staying in San Diego, but Baja has a lot to offer.
The people are very warm. The hospitality is wonderful. Between the eco travel opportunities and the food, wine and cultural opportunities, there's a
lot to discover in Baja. So if you are intimidated by Tijuana, go east and use one of the quieter border crossings. You can also go in a caravan -
with a group, there's always safety in numbers.
You spent time traveling alone and also with your kids researching the book in Baja. Did you ever have any safety issues?
I've never had any issues whatsoever. We've been pulled over for questionable reasons in Tijuana, but it's always been fine.
You've lived just outside Ensenada for ten years. Is Northern Baja safe?
We are very aware of the articles that come out about safety in Mexico and we roll our eyes. We watch the San Diego news down here and we look at the
U.S. and go 'wow,' the crime that goes on up there is so random. I have friends and relatives in L.A. and Orange County who won't come down here
because they're afraid. It's difficult to explain to them that we find it safe here. They think we're crazy.
Have you ever been robbed or had any other safety issues there?
I had an ATM issue in Rosarito a couple years ago. Someone tried to grab my card. I was robbed. I went to the police and they were very responsive, in
fact, the Rosarito government was very responsive as well. But this same kind of thing happens in the U.S.
Did the thief drive you around and make you withdraw money at various ATMs?
No. He didn't have a gun. I walked into an ATM booth and I had already put my pin code in and a young, nice looking guy at the machine next to me
said, 'Oh, here, let me help you with that.' And I told him I didn't need help. And he was very aggressive and out of the corner of my eye, I saw
another guy approaching the booth, so I actually abandoned my card and just got out of there. For me, it was personal safety first. They were able to
withdraw $2oo or $300 from my account.
What about other people in your social circle. Have any of them been robbed or had other security issues?
About two years ago, there were some burglary issues up and down the coast. But there were no violent attacks that I'm aware of.
How would you compare the safety and crime situation now compared to a few years ago?
Things definitely got worse when the economy hit the skids a few years ago. I can't speak to Tijuana as much; I'm more familiar with Rosarito and
Ensenada. Tourism from the U.S. just stopped and that may have inspired some of the crime that happened. I've lived here for about 10 years and I've
felt safer here than I've ever felt in the U.S.
Recently we've seen things improve. We've seen more tourism - not necessarily from the U.S., but from Mexico and Europe, and an upswing in the
economy. And the government has stepped in and has been very sensitive to travelers and tourists.
Of the areas in Northern Baja that are frequented by tourists, are there any you would advise people to be more cautious in than others? Or avoid
entirely?
Not really. I even love Tijuana. It has the best restaurants and is a fun, interesting place. But I wouldn't be hanging out in the bars there after
midnight! A tip that I would give any traveler is to stick to the toll roads, especially at night. I would use the same precautions in Baja that I'd
use anywhere in terms of doing things after dark. As far as specific locations, I think I would stay in the main, touristy areas.
What about Ensenada?
I feel very safe in Ensenada. I'm not a bar scene person but I feel comfortable in Ensenada after dark. You just have to keep your eyes open.
So for Americans looking for a safe beach getaway in northern Baja what do you recommend?
I would highly recommend Ensenada. There are great hotels and it's super sensitive to travelers' needs and desire for safety. And I don't not
recommend Rosarito Beach.
A good outcome to all the bad press Mexico has gotten in the U.S. is that it created a hyper-awareness here, so I think tourists can feel safe here as
long as they pay attention to their awareness and surroundings.
What about police shakedowns in Baja. Are they still a fact of life?
A lot of people have had occasions where they've been pulled over and it turned out to be a shakedown. I would say that was happening quite a bit
about six years ago. I can't speak for everyone, but I've had nothing like that happen recently, nor am I aware of it happening to anyone else in my
community in many years.
But if you are pulled over, is it best to pay the bribe or insist on going down to the police station?
It seems easier to pay $20 and go on your merry way but you need to tell them to take you to the nearest police station. Maybe you were really
speeding and it was a real ticket but you're better off either way. A lot of Americans go down to Baja and think, 'Wow, I'm in another country. I can
do whatever I want here.'
Some people think they can drink themselves into a coma and then hit the road, and it'll be fine because this is Mexico. But the bottom line is that
if you are pulled over, the best bet is to go to the police station. And ask for their identification. If it's a scam, you're calling their bluff. And
make sure you have insurance and have your paperwork with you.
Note: There is no definitive answer to the "Is Baja safe" question. If you talk to people who have gone there and were robbed, the answer is 'no,' it
isn't safe, and if you talk to people who have gone and enjoyed themselves the answer is 'yes' it was fine. As our experts said, every traveler needs
to decide what they are comfortable with.”
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness.”
—Mark Twain
\"La vida es dura, el corazon es puro, y cantamos hasta la madrugada.” (Life is hard, the heart is pure and we sing until dawn.)
—Kirsty MacColl, Mambo de la Luna
\"Alea iacta est.\"
—Julius Caesar
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castaway$
Senior Nomad
Posts: 742
Registered: 7-31-2007
Location: Gold Hill, Oregon
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Mood: Fish on!
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In 10 years I have been robbed once due to my own stupidity. I left my truck unlocked when I got out on the Bay of Conception, apparently the guy was
laying low in the cactus and when we left he went through my wallet and got $60 U.S., he didn't take cameras, credit cards or anything else. I feel
safe in Baja but we try to be smart and pay attention to our surroundings and don't isolate ourselves at any time, we also maintain a low profile and
don't flaunt any wealth.
Live Indubiously!
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Humboldt Chris and Robin
Junior Nomad
Posts: 75
Registered: 11-13-2004
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Never had a problem in all our years of camping. Our friends in Baja are hurting big-time because of the crime scares and need us to patronize their
businesses.
Every car I have owned in the last 10 years has been broken into within 5 miles of my house, so I'm wondering if I should move to Baja for safety!!
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Humboldt Chris and Robin
Never had a problem in all our years of camping. Our friends in Baja are hurting big-time because of the crime scares and need us to patronize their
businesses.
Every car I have owned in the last 10 years has been broken into within 5 miles of my house, so I'm wondering if I should move to Baja for safety!!
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Well....I guess this won't matter to you:
http://www.travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/tw/tw_5815.html
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absinvestor
Senior Nomad
Posts: 725
Registered: 11-28-2009
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Having traveled Mexico for 40 years and lived there off and on for 17 of those years I feel it is safe. I would not hesitate to take the kids or
grandkids using the normal precautions ei not driving at night etc. I recently had a flat tire and within minutes I was surrounded by three local
young adults- not trying to rob me but trying to assist with the repair! I had a useless scissor type jack. When I tried to give a tip to the one who
supplied his hydraulic jack and labor he smiled and declined my offer. (That is not to say that everyone who helps will decline compensation.) Whether
travel is safe is another issue. The roads have improved but I recently had a mirror ripped off our motorhome by a passing 18 wheeler. At the time I
thought that loosing a mirror would be a once in life time experience but the more I talk to fellow travelers the more I hear "that also happened to
me." If you're driving a car or suv you should be fine- come on down and enjoy your trip!!
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DENNIS
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 29510
Registered: 9-2-2006
Location: Punta Banda
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Mexico is as safe as you make it for yourself.......or as dangerous.
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absinvestor
Senior Nomad
Posts: 725
Registered: 11-28-2009
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I think Dennis hit the nail on the head!!
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Lee
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3544
Registered: 10-2-2006
Location: High in the Colorado Rockies
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| Quote: | Originally posted by absinvestor
....The roads have improved but I recently had a mirror ripped off our motorhome by a passing 18 wheeler. At the time I thought that loosing a mirror
would be a once in life time experience but the more I talk to fellow travelers the more I hear "that also happened to me." If you're driving a car
or suv you should be fine- come on down and enjoy your trip!! |
Had a driver side mirror on my RV smashed by a 5th wheel going the other direction -- but a semi could have done it too. That meant the other
vehicle was within 6'' of side swiping me. Newer Ford trucks have mirrors that stick straight out.
This happened to me North of San Ignacio. In Loreto, I spoke with another RVer and the same thing had happened to him that day.
Move the mirror closer in to avoid getting hit.
Otherwise, it's safe enough in Baja.
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Bajajorge
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2604
Registered: 10-13-2005
Location: Topaz Lake, NV/San Felipe
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I stay in Baja some 4-5 months during the winter, cuz I'm suicidal.
Why do Liberals insist and demand that achievers pay the way for nonachievers who are to lazy to succeed, or are just failures by their own choice?
Criminals prefer unarmed victims, dictators prefer unarmed subjects.
Why do ignorant people continue their blabbering when it only proves to others how stupid they are.
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durrelllrobert
Elite Nomad
Posts: 7393
Registered: 11-22-2007
Location: Punta Banda BC
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Mood: thriving in Baja
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Remember to lock your truck (from the inside)
| Quote: | Originally posted by castaway$
In 10 years I have been robbed once due to my own stupidity. I left my truck unlocked when I got out on the Bay of Conception, apparently the guy was
laying low in the cactus and when we left he went through my wallet and got $60 U.S., he didn't take cameras, credit cards or anything else.
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I always lock my car from the inside.
*I locked my car. As I walked away I heard my car door unlock. *
*I went back and locked my car again **_three times _**.
Each time, *
*as soon as I started to walk away, I would hear it unlock
again!! *
*Naturally alarmed, I looked around and there were two guys *
*sitting in a car in the fire lane next to the store. They
were obviously watching me intently, and there was no doubt
they were somehow involved in this very weird situation. *
*I quickly chucked the errand I was on, jumped in my car and
sped away. I went straight to the police station, told them
what had happened, and found out I was part of a new, and
very successful, scheme being used to gain entry into cars. *
*Two weeks later, my friend's son had a similar happening.... *
*While traveling, my friend's son stopped at a roadside rest
to use the bathroom. When he came out to his car less than
4-5 minutes later, someone had gotten into his car and
stolen his cell phone, laptop computer, GPS navigator,
briefcase.....you name it He called the police and since
there were no signs of his car being broken into, the police
told him he had been a victim of the latest robbery tactic
-- there is a device that robbers are using now to clone
your security code when you lock your doors on your car
using your key-chain locking device.. *
*They sit a distance away and watch for their next victim.
They know you are going inside of the store, restaurant,
or bathroom and that they now have a few minutes to steal
and run. The police officer said to manually lock your car
door-by hitting the lock button inside the car -- that way
if there is someone sitting in a parking lot watching for
their next victim, it will not be you. *
*When you hit the lock button on your car upon exiting, it
does not send the security code, but if you walk away and
use the door lock on your key chain, it sends the code
through the airwaves where it can be instantly stolen. *
*This is very real. *
*Be wisely aware of what you just read and please pass this
note on. Look how many times we all lock our doors with our
remote just to be sure we remembered to lock them -- and
bingo, someone has our code...and whatever was in our car. *
Bob Durrell
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bonanza bucko
Senior Nomad
Posts: 587
Registered: 8-31-2003
Location: San Diego
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Mood: Airport Bum
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I don't know if it'll make you feel safer but there is les street crime in Baja than there is within one mile of the White House. I used to have to
go to work in Washington and stayed in a hotel across the intersection from Union Station four blocks down from the capitol. If I went out the front
door and turned right or went across the street to Union Station all was OK. If I turned left one block my chances of being mugged were about 80%.
BB
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