Gypsy Jan
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Calafia Confidential
From The San Diego Reader
http://www.sandiegoreader.com/news/2013/may/22/tin-fork-olas...
By Ed Bedford
"Our journey begins at the border. It is six o’clock in the evening.
The mission: find the historic Calafia Hotel — the one that hangs off a cliff south of Rosarito. Fill yourself up on its happy-hour freebies. The
problem: I’m starting way late. The decision: carry on anyway.
I’ve got about $25 on me. In Tijuana I get one of the gold-and-white taxis de ruta on Madero that can take you down to Rosarito for a couple of bucks.
At this hour, it’s about a 40-minute drive.
In Rosarito I swap chariots. Now I’m in a li’l country bus, heading south. It’s 7:30 p.m.
I jump out at a side road that looks like it heads for a cliff. Milestone reads “Calafia, km 34.5” Guess that’s how far we are from Tijuana.
Bus pulls away and suddenly it’s silence except for the whoosh of cars and a distant crash of waves. Realize I’m on a high promontory that juts out
into the ocean. I walk south through the dark till I come to a dimly lit arch painted with the words: “Hotel Calafia Restaurante/Bar.”
But something feels wrong. There are no real lights, only a flood lamp that shines on a ghostly church front.
“Misión San Diego de Alcalá, 1769” is painted up top. It’s the façade of San Diego’s mission. Huh. What’s up with this?
I wander down through the buildings till I find a lone security guard.
“They have reproduced many of the missions here,” he says when I ask. “This was the division line between the Dominican and Franciscan control of the
California missions.”
“How come it’s totally deserted?” I ask.
“We are only open Friday, Saturday, Sunday,” he says.
Great. This is Wednesday. So now here I am, stuck alone on a mountain without hope of a meal and no civilization in sight.
I crunch back toward the arch, and only then do I notice this giant new building that tumbles down the hill to the rocks below.
“Las Olas Grand,” says a sign on the wall. Think “olas” means “waves.” Then it says, “Restaurante Los Cristales.”
I go in through a parking entrance. Lone guard there says, yes, they have a restaurant, and it’s open. He directs me along marble corridors to an
elevator.
Elevator swoops down six floors. I walk out to…whoa! Surreal. A floodlit white artificial beach and a pool set below two ginormous cliffs with
waterfalls pouring down them. It’s like choppering into a 007 scene, deserted except for two kids with echoey voices playing in the sand next to a
volleyball net. A hidden sound system plays cool jazz.
I walk a wood-and-rock path toward a rock promontory and a low, modern building. Next weird thing I see: hardbody gals on treadmills, sweating away
inside a glass-walled fitness center — with the white teeth of waves crashing right in front of them. Then, on the right, a door. “OPEN,” it reads.
And now I walk into this ultra-chic space. A bar, a dozen tables, mirrored walls, and, just like the fitness center, waves coming at you from behind
glass walls. You expect to see sharks gliding along.
Two couples sit at the bar, and a happy group of six gringos laughs over c-cktails at a window-side table. I dunno. I kinda feel like Jody Foster
arriving at that beach in Contact.
Gal at the desk shows me a menu. Heart sinks at the price of what she says is the most popular dish, parrilladas. It’s that Argentinian-type mixed
grill of meats or seafood, or both, and it’s, uh, $55, $60.
I pick a table near the happy crowd. The waiter, Jesús, comes up. “Something to drink?”
I check the rest of the menu. Margaritas and tequilas start at $5, house wines go for $6 a glass. But prices can reach, hey, $176. That’s for a
Balché. That turns out to be a fermented honey drink of the Mayans, according to Jesús. Except, oh, downer: he says this one is a bottle of cabernet
sauvignon just using the name.
They do, however, have draft beers for $1.50. Now we’re talking. I order one of those and also, on impulse, one of the soups that sounds kinda cool:
Crema las olas. “Cream waves.” Tatemado peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, herbs, avocado, and king crab, $7.50.
Crema las olas soup - Jesús brings it in a big bowl, the avo and crab in the middle. It’s totally delish. The herby-tomatoey flavors are different
from any tomato concoction I’ve had in Alta California.
So now I’m thinking, Can I afford something solid? They have pasta for $7. Any pasta with, say, pesto or Alfredo. Not exciting, but cheap. Main
courses like steak are around $15. But pepperoni pizza’s $7, and a hamburguesa del chef is $8.50.
Table next door says to get the camarones glaseados, citrus-glazed shrimp with chiltepín chili. Problem is, that’s $16. No can do.
Oh, what the heck. I order the hamburguesa. When it comes, it’s a biggie. Stick fries, two fat onion rings, and a burger stuffed with romaine lettuce,
pickles, tomato, two cheeses (provolone and cheddar), bacon, and an eight-ounce beef patty. Plus, nice crispy toasted bun. Nothing ’specially Mexican
about it, but it’s a nice, squelchy challenge.
Mr. Vallejo, the taxi driver who took pity on me
Full? Yes. Mission kinda accomplished. But you don’t even want to know about the trip back. The total at Los Cristales was $20.27, not counting a tip.
That left $1.85 to get home. Oh, man. The waiting for hours up on the road in the dark, the tripping, the fall in the ditch…
A community bus finally appears, 90 cents. Then, at Rosarito, the kindness of Mr. Vallejo. Took me in his taxi de ruta from Rosarito to downtown TJ
for my last 85 cents, rather than the $1.50 I should’ve given him.
I get across the line and onto the trolley and let out a big whew."
The Place: Los Cristales, at Las Olas Grand Hotel, Carretera Libre Tijuana-Ensenada at Km 28.5 Cuenca Diaz, Rosarito, 619-713-7715 or
011.52.661-612-5227
Prices: Draft beers, $1.50; crema las olas (soup) with tatemado peppers, sun-dried tomatoes, avocado, king crab, $7.50; pasta with e.g. pesto or
Alfredo sauces, $7; pepperoni pizza, $7; hamburguesa del chef, $8.50; tenderloin steak with mash, $15; citrus-glazed shrimp with chiltepín chili, $16;
parrilladas, Argentinian-type mixed grill, $55
Hours: 2:00–10:00 p.m., Tuesday–Friday; 9:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m., Saturdays; 9:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m., Sunday; closed Mondays
Buses: Popotla, Calafia taxis de ruta
Nearest Bus Stop: Roadside, at kilometer 34.5 roadside marker (and, yes, it’s different from the Los Cristales official address, above)
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow mindedness.”
—Mark Twain
\"La vida es dura, el corazon es puro, y cantamos hasta la madrugada.” (Life is hard, the heart is pure and we sing until dawn.)
—Kirsty MacColl, Mambo de la Luna
\"Alea iacta est.\"
—Julius Caesar
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Udo
Elite Nomad
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I have stayed at the Calafia hotel.
Great piece of history and the beachside setting on the rocks and shore-point break is unequaled.
Rooms were OK...average by any standard, but the history made the stay worth while. What broke the bliss was the late night loud music on Friday and
Saturday nights.
Food was great and rooms were nice appointed...particularly the waterfront rooms.
Would have been nice to have a board to experience the point-break surf...very long rides!
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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Terry28
Senior Nomad
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Yeah, It's a very cool hotel site..The step down patio is awesome. And you could have rented a board just down the street at the surf shop....K38
Mexico!! Where two can live as cheaply as one.....but it costs twice as much.....
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BajaBlanca
Select Nomad
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once went to a party held there and boy, what a location for a fiesta.
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Vince
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In the cove just below the Calafia Hotel, and maybe the one just north of that many of us that grew up in Coronado spent many summers. This was in
the '50's and early '60's. There was a great sandy beach there, good surf break and fantastic abalone and langusta diving. We would come down on
Friday night or Sat. AM, spend the day diving and surfing, cook up a big luau on Saturday and Sunday. There were quite a few navy guys stationed and
living in Coronado then, and many of them came down and learned how do dive and surf. The UDT guys really loved that. On the way home Sunday, we
would stop in TJ for the bullfights. Last time I checked, the beach had lost most of it's sand, but will probably come back. What wonderful
memories.
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woody with a view
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Vince
we used to drive down onto the beach at the spot around to the north and surf all summer long. back in the early 80's i'd be listening to the radio
shack weather radio and tracking hurricanes off cabo LONG before shaun styles came along. we'd take our boards to work building what is now university
town center and la jolla colony. after work we'd jam down to Calafia and surf until our arms were sore, eat some tacos at Eduardo's (across from the
rosarito hotel) and be home before 9pm. that was back in the days of the 10 minute border waits.
Hurricane Olivia in all her glory.....
[Edited on 5-25-2013 by woody with a view]
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Vince
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We probably surfed the same breaks, Woody. The surf should be the same but the diving and the border lines certainly have changed. It would still be
fun, I'm sure, especially that summer south swell.
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Udo
Elite Nomad
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Wattalife Woodie!
You are right about the old border waits. Those were the days!
BTW beautiful wave and ride!
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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durrelllrobert
Elite Nomad
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Udo
I have stayed at the Calafia hotel.
Great piece of history and the beachside setting on the rocks and shore-point break is unequaled.
Rooms were OK...average by any standard, but the history made the stay worth while. What broke the bliss was the late night loud music on Friday and
Saturday nights.
Food was great and rooms were nice appointed...particularly the waterfront rooms.
Would have been nice to have a board to experience the point-break surf...very long rides! |
... and I'll bet you loved the pirate ship too 
Bob Durrell
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