SFandH
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Used Class C Motor Homes
Looking for a $10,000 or less used Class C RV to drive around the United States, maybe Alaska. Mostly a super slab cruiser.
Any manufacturer / chassis / engine recommendations? Or anything in particular to watch out for (not buy)?
Thanks
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sancho
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Lazy Daze cl c, made in Pomona, Ca., are maybe the most
sought after, they tend to retain their value, cost used more
than others, another is Bigfoot cl c, again probably more than
10 k, 10 k is about the minimum, for a reliable used MH. I would guess you're thinking 26' or so. If it were me, I would look at Jayco MH. Also
depending on
how many people, the Cl B's, are gaining in popularity, a bit better gas milage, more manuverable, obviously smaller.
Yes it is Montclair, they redrew the city boundries between
Pomona, Montclair maybe some
15 yrs back
[Edited on 10-7-2015 by sancho]
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Maron
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SFandH
We agree with Sancho, regarding the Class B. For two people it is great, super mileage and fits into any parking space. We had a 1999 Coachman
Starflyte, 21 foot. Drove it to Cabo from So Cal in 2013 and mainland in 2011. Strong Ford V10. Mileage around 18 per. Small refer, two burner
store, shower and toilet, mirco, propane heater and water heater. Prior to that a 26 foot Class C. Bigger and more storage, mileage about 5 per
gallon less. Now we have a Class A, super storage, etc, but not much as far as mileage.
Good luck.
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SFandH
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Thanks for the responses. I know there are some avid RVers on this message board so I have this thread bookmarked and will refer to it when I'm ready
to buy. My plan is a trip around the US for several months so more space is good. After that I may sell it, or keep it if we want to do it again.
Problem is I have a limited budget, otherwise I'd go for a bus sized motor mansion, towing a small beemer. 8^)
[Edited on 10-6-2015 by SFandH]
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chippy
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Quote: Originally posted by Maron  | SFandH
We agree with Sancho, regarding the Class B. For two people it is great, super mileage and fits into any parking space. We had a 1999 Coachman
Starflyte, 21 foot. Drove it to Cabo from So Cal in 2013 and mainland in 2011. Strong Ford V10. Mileage around 18 per. Small refer, two burner
store, shower and toilet, mirco, propane heater and water heater. Prior to that a 26 foot Class C. Bigger and more storage, mileage about 5 per
gallon less. Now we have a Class A, super storage, etc, but not much as far as mileage.
Good luck. |
Did you mean 8 mpg for the v10?My brothers Ford Excursion with that motor was lucky to see 13 mpg empty on the freeway. It was a strong motor though.
[Edited on 10-6-2015 by chippy]
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bajabuddha
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Only disadvantage to a Class C is you need a light tow-vehicle with, or you have to pack up your whole house to go to the store or sightseeing
side-trips for the day. That's two vehicles, two insurances, taxes, and repair/maintenance costs. Consider your 2nd vehicle as well with your
package if you plan on roosting anywhere for a little while. Along with that you need a car-tote trailer; tailing with two drivers is also two gas
allowances for travel. Lots to consider.
I don't have a BUCKET LIST, but I do have a F***- IT LIST a mile long!
86 - 45*
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BornFisher
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I`ve got a class B semi beater you can have for 5 G. 1990 Dodge, road trek camper, 19', refer, 2 burner, toilet, closet, micro, ac, heater. Taking it
on a trip tomorrow up 395 toward Mammouth.
"When you catch a fish, you open the door of happiness."
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SFandH
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| Quote: Originally posted by BornFisher | | I`ve got a class B semi beater you can have for 5 G. 1990 Dodge, road trek camper, 19', refer, 2 burner, toilet, closet, micro, ac, heater. Taking it
on a trip tomorrow up 395 toward Mammouth. |
oh, a semi-beater, I'm a semi-handy, semi-tool guy. Is it semi-ugly too? I have a semi-pretty, semi-gucci wife that needs to semi-approve.
Do you clean the fish inside? 
[Edited on 10-7-2015 by SFandH]
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Lee
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Don't buy anything but a Lazy Daze RV. Here's one for $5,950.
http://www.rvtrader.com/dealers/Arizona-RV-Supercenter-28882...
Best Class C made, best Class C service available. I have one. Never selling it -- unless it's for another one.
For -$10k, you'll get age but you want quality too. If this is your first RV, you'll probably keep it. The only way to travel.
If you tow, you want a vehicle less than 3k pounds. Older engines and frames might not support a towable anyway. Depending where you're
camping, bicycles work too.
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
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SFandH
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Thanks Lee, that's what I'm thinking about but perhaps newer.
Lazy Daze..........good name.
sancho recommends it too.
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Lee
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| Quote: Originally posted by SFandH | Thanks Lee, that's what I'm thinking about but perhaps newer.
Lazy Daze..........good name.
sancho recommends it too. |
RV Trader, scroll down from the other LD: '91, $12k, 63k miles. Not bad. Think it read Ontario which is down the street from the LD factory in
Montclair. Good luck.
(Manufactured in Pomona years; now Montclair.)
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
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Cliffy
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The biggest issue in used RVs is water leaks from the roof and windows. It causes rot in the walls. Look for wavy or bubbled outside walls and water
stains inside even in the corners of cabinets and ceiling. Make sure every appliance works as it should. Refers are especially vulnerable and
expensive to replace. Turn on the water pump while you are looking it over with all the faucets turned off. If you hear the pump run even a little
burp after the initial turning on, you have a plumbing leak. basically check EVERYTHING that pulls, pushes or turns on. TRUST NO ONE selling the unit
to tell the whole truth about the unit. Don't forget the black and gray tank dump valves. A problem with the black one will be a real problem the
first time you use it!
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SFandH
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Thanks for the tips cliffy.
You said: "Refers are especially vulnerable and expensive to replace."
Is there a "main issue" with RV refrigerators? What generally goes wrong with them and why?
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bajabuddha
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Pumps burping does not necessarily mean a plumbing leak (other than inside the pump). I've replaced two pumps because of intermittent 'burping', the
cause being the pressure diaphragm inside the pump ages and allows the pressure past the pump (in your lines) to seep back into the pump and tank, so
the pump burps to refill the line pressure. They make kits to fix it, but the kit (and repair time) costs as much as a new pump... so just replace.
HOWEVER: should still look for line-leaks first! They cause damage. A used pump is good to have on hand for a number of things; simple to hook up to
your vehicle battery for transferring water; simply hose-clamp a few inches of 1/2" garden hose to the "innie and outie" ends and alligator clips to
the pos and neg wires. Voila, a multi-purpose tool. I use mine when boondocking and hauling water.
Sorry for the semi-hijack; back to C-Class.
I don't have a BUCKET LIST, but I do have a F***- IT LIST a mile long!
86 - 45*
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Martyman
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My parents went through 2 Lazy Daze motorhomes. They were great until they hit 100,000 miles. Then every trip was an extra $500 for
something-plumbing, water heater, fridge.
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AKgringo
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Be wary of any unit that has been used extensively in northern climates. What appears as water damage from a leaky roof, may also be from water vapor
from cooking, cleaning, or using the propane cook top to heat the place up.
The water vapor will make it into the insulated spaces, and condense or turn to frost when it is in contact with the exterior walls or bottom side of
the roof. Vapor barriers are only partly effective, in fact they trap the moisture in and allow it to accumulate.
[Edited on 10-7-2015 by AKgringo]
If you are not living on the edge, you are taking up too much space!
"Could do better if he tried!" Report card comments from most of my grade school teachers. Sadly, still true!
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SFandH
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I'll be buying it between San Diego and LA. Hopefully from old desert rats.
[Edited on 10-7-2015 by SFandH]
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Cliffy
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To check out the refer you need to turn it on a day ahead of time to give it time to cool down. Don't know if you are familiar with gas absorption
refers or not. When they work correctly they keep food in the mid 30' range perfectly but their recovery of cold after opening takes lots longer so
don't keep opening the door a hundred time a day.
They are usually powered as a 2 way. 2 way is usually gas and 120 volt electric. Both do as good a job of cooling. You have to make sure both work.
If you smell ammonia in the refer or outside by the door for it the cooling coil is broken and the refer is dead. You will smell it if its broken
there. Electronic controls sometimes have issues on them. The gas flame can be obstructed with spider webs and dirt, etc. The electric heaters can be
bad. You could have the owner turn it on the day before you get there on electricity and then transfer it to electric when you get there for the day.
That is why you need time to check it out thoroughly. Or get a written statement that it works in all modes and you can bring it back if it doesn't.
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john68
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| Quote: Originally posted by SFandH | | Quote: Originally posted by BornFisher | | I`ve got a class B semi beater you can have for 5 G. 1990 Dodge, road trek camper, 19', refer, 2 burner, toilet, closet, micro, ac, heater. Taking it
on a trip tomorrow up 395 toward Mammouth. |
oh, a semi-beater, I'm a semi-handy, semi-tool guy. Is it semi-ugly too? I have a semi-pretty, semi-gucci wife that needs to semi-approve.
Do you clean the fish inside?
Hahahahaha! |
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