TLBaja79
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1 Month in Baja - Spring 2015 (now w/ pics)
This is a trip report from Spring 2015, no recent info, just our story.
The first part is a few guys driving/camping down the pacific side and then the girls fly down to Loreto and on we go... Fortunately for us we did
not have any problems or issues during our month in Baja. It doesn't make for very good story telling but it was a great trip.
We leave Orange County around 10am with plans to go to Jardines hotel in San Quintin. The last minute shopping is done in the morning for things
forgotten, and coolers filled up with ice. Both trucks are loaded up to the gills with camping stuff, essentials and fun stuff. We hit the border
before noon and had a bit of a hang up with the border officials not wanting to let us through with a detached outboard motor. We had a little 12ft
boat and a 9.9hp outboard detached. After a run around at the border we just drove over to Otay and no problem!
We met up with the other truck on the toll road and kept on goin! The drive to San Quintin was uneventful. Once we pulled off the side of the road
to go the half mile to Jardines we were so ready for our first Baja beer we just stopped there and cracked a beer and let the dog out to run. We were
all working hard and this trip was a long time coming, so once there we were ready to relax! Then pulled into the Jardines parking lot and decided to
just relax tailgating with some cold beers before getting dinner or even checking in. A handful of others stopped by for a cold one, either headed
north finishing their vacation or headed south starting it.
After a handful of beers, hanging out and running the dog we checked in and found our rooms. Then went next door to the restaurant. We enjoyed some
good drinks and food at the Jardines restaurant and talked about the drive the next day.
Headed South
We woke up early to the birds chirping outside the rooms, has to be the best way to wake up when you are starting a fun trip southbound. Grabbed
coffee with the great attentive security guard that always shines a flashlight on me when I wake and go to my truck in the morning and then is very
friendly when he realizes you belong there. I don't mind it at all.
We got moving and checked out and headed north to the grocery store to pick up some of the mexican groceries we needed and not sure if we'd see
another grocery store along the way. We then found out you can't by beer before 11am? In San Quintin... Found out that 2 out of 3 of our ATM cards
didn't work...had to call banks to release
Then hit the road southbound as the morning is just warming up. Stopped in El Rosario to fill up our rigs at the gas station, filled up a broken
suspension air bag which apparently wasn't broken anymore. Stopped again at 'Baja's Best Restaurant' before headed out of town for some breakfast
burritos. Weren't really sure how big they would be and found out at least 2 per person next time...but we found that out 10min down the road.
Cruisin the desert all morning is a beautiful time. Spring time can't be better with all the flowering cactus and plants. I've never spent much time
in this part of Baja but there is something about it I like more and more as I get older. This trip we'll just cruise on by making the occasional
stop to eat some snacks and stretch our legs.
We get to Viscaino early afternoon and fill up our rigs and wallets. A quick phone call to the banks opened up the ability to get cash in Baja. We
stopped again at a grocery store on the left side of Hwy 1. Never been to this place but is was sort of a warehouse style store and had everything we
needed for the upcoming camping we'd be doing. Next was San Ignacio to top off our rigs before headed out on the dirt roads for the next few days,
that and some extra cold beers that surely wouldn't go to waste. We also talked to our family back home for the last time we'd have cell reception
for days.
Off the Highway!
Grabbed some tacos at a place I forget the name of...Brick arches near the mission. The food was great and the beer was cold so we were happy. We
hit the dirt road out of town in the afternoon searching for a good spot to settle down for the night. We just wanted to get out of town enough to
have a spot to ourselves. Stopped once the road turned dirt and aired down the tires and cracked a dirt road beer. After about half an hour or so
driving down the dirt road we found a spot to call camp for the night. It was in a little dried up arroyo, perfect for the night. We found some
firewood and go to making a fire for dinner. We brought the tequila out and really settled into a different level of baja relaxing! We had a few
Backwoods 'cigars' with some tequila around the campfire with campfood, life couldn't be any better!
We had a great time that first night hanging out enjoying the quiet starry night camping. Woke up in the morning and packed up camp while cooking up
some breakfast, with plans to camp somewhere north of Scorpion Bay that night. We headed out mid morning after packing up and cleaning up to make
sure there were no signs of us being there. We'd spend the rest of the day cruising the dirt roads from just south of San Ignacio to just north of
San Juanico. We pull off the main dirt road off to a little 4x4 road to get out to the camp spot for the night. When we found our spot for the night
we unpacked the fishing gear and ran down to the beach to download some corvina and corbina. The surf fishing was really good catching something
about every cast! We kept what we needed for the night and tossed the rest back. We hiked back up to camp and cooked up our fresh catch. Fresh surf
fish was incredible on the open fire! Another night similar to the last hanging out around the campfire drinking tequila! Nothing noteworthy but if
you've done it you know it doesn't get much better.
Mag Bay
The next morning we packed up and headed to Mag Bay for the next few nights. After a couple nights of setting up/packing up it will be nice to settle
down and stay for a bit. We get to San Juanico around lunch time and are very surprised by the growth in the last 15years since we were last there.
We knew that was the case from reading about it but seeing it is a different story. We stopped at a place for lunch and gorged ourselves on tacos and
a few beers overlooking the beach. Afterwards we went down to the beach and went for a swim and relaxed for a few.
Next we found ourselves on Mag Bay, a place I'd been to a couple times to whale watch and heard all about the camping and fishing to be had. We found
a great spot where we could fish right out in front, swim and relax bird watching!
Our morning routine was so nice, waking up and making some camp coffee while shaking off the nights tequila and cobwebs of sleeping so nice in the
desert. Sitting around drinking coffee and talking about anything, always light and fun! Then slowly putting together a breakfast of sorts.
Anything from bacon, eggs, potatoes to simple oatmeal. Those mornings are tough to beat.
We had a small boat that was perfect for Mag bay cruising. It was small enough to man handle and carry but big enough for a few guys. Def not
seaworthy enough to go outside the bay. We'd go on the next few days catching plenty of great fish from bass to Snoook, tiny and 25lb+... We'd eat
clams, oysters, scallops all caught within a few hours of dinner! When relaxing the bird watching was as good as it gets in Mag Bay. Its hard to
describe how great it is camping in a good spot...bird watching, eating great fresh seafood all on the open fire! After a few days of fishing, clam
digging, relaxing on Mag Bay it was time to head over to Loreto to pick up some new friends and the 3 of us to go different directions.
Loreto
Now in full Baja relaxed mode I took off from the other 2 guys for Loreto. I then found myself driving relatively slow once on the highway realizing
how nice and relaxed I was! Stopped at a taco place in Insurgentes for a quick bite before headed across the peninsula to Loreto. I pulled into
Loreto and my wife and another couple had already arrived and were at Ceasars Taco's in downtown Loreto. This is one of our favorite places in Loreto
for lunch. After a few tacos, cold beers and getting caught up we checked into La Mision Hotel. This is definitely the nicest hotel in Loreto with
great staff. There are plenty of other great hotels but this one is very nice.
We regrouped in Loreto for the night and formulated a plan for our camping trip the following day. Eating their great food and cold drinks out on the
balcony overlooking the Malecon and Sea of Cortez is about as dreamy as it gets!
Agua Verde
We had a plan. Woke up in the morning and went to the Pescador store for food and supplies. The other couple looked at me like I was crazy when I
was loading up the cart with tequila for the next few days camping, they thought I was getting way too much...little did they know we'd run out! Once
stocked up on food and supplies we hit the road for Agua Verde. The drive down was a bit sketchy for the girls but it was all in control and we made
it safely to the bottom. The views from the top and on the way I'm sure squashed any complaining about the scary road. We pulled off to a 4x4 road
to the beach we'd been to before. Once we got to the beach we realized we had one neighbor down the way a bit.
The neighbors were early 60's retired couple enjoying their time with a couple weeks here and there up and down Baja. They were very nice though we
didn't hang out too much. We'd spend the next bunch of nights on the beach snorkeling, kayaking, SUP'ing, swimming and overall relaxing every day.
In the afternoon we'd all go separate ways looking for firewood. There are enough campers in the area that firewood is hard to come by so it took all
of us a half hour or so of ditching happy hour for some chores! Those are some welcoming chores if you ask me! Wandering around picking up firewood.
We have started to bring thick gloves with us for firewood hunting to hopefully repel the dreaded scorpion.
My wife and I slept in the back of our truck on a air mattress and our friends in a tent nearby. We are always looking for the next best way to camp
and sleep. Some day we'll afford a pop up slide in camper but for now we sleep in the truck bed. We were able to bring enough toys to enjoy the
beach life. Stand up paddleboarding was great with the calm flat water out front. We also had a double kayak to cruise around in, use for snorkeling
and fishing. We didn't have too much luck fishing, really only a few sharks to speak of. Didn't keep any of them. Didn't fish enough to find out
any good areas around where we were camping. I hear of good fishing in the area so I know its there, maybe next time I'll try harder.
Every afternoon we'd have happy hour and make some good snacks to eat while preparing dinner. We brought a coleman stove and never even used it, we
cooked everything in a dutch oven, cast iron skillet or on the open fire. It all tasted so good. After a few nights of enjoying the beach and
camping we started to run out of ice and water. So we packed up one morning and headed out to our next stop Los Barriles. We didn't stop but a
couple times for food and bathroom breaks. We always enjoy eating Super Pollo when we are on the road, its so easy/fast n tasty and doesn't leave us
feeling like we just ate junk fast food.
Los Barriles
We already had a house reserved and had emailed a lady to cook a meal for us since we expected to arrive late afternoon. We were a bit skeptical but
when we arrived we found a huge mexican meal waiting for us! Norma was the best, we had leftovers for the next couple days too! Our house was right
on the water only a few minutes walk to downtown Barriles. The next week we spent the days on ATV's, on the beach, swimming, fishing, adventuring
around the area.
One day we wanted to check out Palmas del Cortez and next thing we knew we were a few drinks in, then to the Art Festival for the afternoon. It was
such a fun afternoon walking around checking out the local art, eating great food and drinking cold drinks in the heat. On the way back to our house
we stopped at the smoke house restaurant and again with nothing to do the rest of the day we got roped into a few more c-cktails and snacks! Nothing
better than being on vacation and turning a short walk into stopping at a handful of watering holes before getting back home.
The beach is a bit different than what I've usually encountered in Baja, everybody seems to have an ATV and loves riding it on the beach day and
night. It does wind down in the evening at some point but its loud for the most part.
We enjoyed many of the restaurants in Barriles and overall really enjoyed our time there, we'd love to go back again soon.
We took our friends to the bus stop where they fly out to their next adventure and we'd leave Los Barriles.
Todos Santos
We left Barriles late morning and drove down through Cabo to Todos Santos where we'd spend a couple nights with just my wife and I. We really like
Todos Santos, the artsy streets and the variety of cuisine is hard to pass up. We stayed at the Hotel Casa Tota which is really cool and modern.
Most all the staff are young and fun. There is a little pool, jacuzzi and a very good restaurant bar attached. The restaurant has very good food,
everything we have had from there is mexican with a twist...its fun and good food, if you haven't eaten there give it a try. Walking around Todos
Santos is fun and always leads us to something fun for the day.
Villas del Palmar
After a couple days in Todos Santos we hit the road again for Loreto. I used to camp on the beach where they have since built the Villas del Palmar
south of Loreto. Years ago it was just us camping and the small boutique hotel up on the hill. It was a great spot to camp, fish, dive, etc... So
we really wanted to stay at the Villas del Palmar and see how the area is now with a mega resort. We checked in right around Semana Santa and the
place was slammed, they only had a handful of rooms available.
We went to our room and immediately changed to head down to the pool. The pool was ok, it was crowded and I don't think they were staffed for full
occupancy. We had a good time enjoying our evening before dinner at one of the restaurants which was good, nothing special though. On day 2 at the
Villas del Palmar we decided to pay the price and get all inclusive, this was all drinks and food included. We really enjoy Baja, the culture and
smaller towns the most so an all inclusive in Loreto was not exactly what we are into. It was ok, but we weren't too crazy about it. We drank , ate
and used the beach club all day before heading to dinner at one of the restaurants...which was good but again nothing special.
On checkout I was more than ready to get back in the car and head to a non resort place! My wife liked it there but was very happy to leave as well.
Loreto
We left Villas del Palmar in the morning and headed to the Clam Shack. I think it has a name but I'm talking about the place south of Loreto on the
beach. Its nothing nice as far as plastic chairs under a palapa but they have some of the best fresh clams we've ever had. Never heard anything bad
about them and we have scored every time we are there. After a couple beers and too many clams we headed to Loreto to check into La Mision again.
They were near booked as well due to Semana Santa but we were able to get a room. The town was booming that weekend, it was really fun seeing the
festivities and people running around town at all hours. La Mision again was great the staff and the hotel is about as good as it gets.
For the 3rd time this month long trip in Baja we extended our original plans to stay for just a couple nights in Loreto. We weren't ready to head
back home just yet. After a few more days at La Mision we had to head out to get back to work in the states. So we finally checked out and got on
the road early one morning.
On the Road
We hit the road early morning and stopped in Mulege for some breakfast. Then kept goin straight through to San Quintin and stayed a night in Jardines
right where I started our trip about a month before. This was the one night a week Jardines restaurant is closed so we went down to the Old Mill and
had a nice meal. The restaurant is huge and when we arrived it was almost empty and we were thinking we really screwed up going here. But soon
enough the place filled up for the most part and we were more than happy with the dinner.
Another nice night at Jardines except that after waking up in the morning it was time to head north and end our month long trip in Baja. But we had
such a great time it was hard to not be ready to end this great trip. We prepared the car and got on the road that morning. We got to the SY border
crossing to get lost...again but then decided to try the Otay border with great success. We made it across in about an hour or so and on our way back
home. We made it home early afternoon, early enough to mostly unpack the truck and take that hour long shower washing off all the dirt and dust of a
great Baja trip!
We were very happy to have a month long trip in Baja with no injuries, major car breakdowns, illnesses, etc... We drove a Tundra and it is great down
in Baja. The 4x4 is as good as any truck I've had. Its big enough for 4 adults and all our gear. We were in Baja about one month, over 300 miles on
dirt roads, over 2k miles in total.
Nothing here is very earth shattering or a great story but since I'm not able to get back down there for a while I figured I'd recap a previous trip
to hopefully get my Baja fix. But there is only one way to feel the way you do when you are down in Baja relaxed, camping out. Hopefully soon enough
I'll be back down that way.
[Edited on 8-16-2016 by TLBaja79]
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shari
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Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Great trip report...sounds like the ideal Baja tour...a bit of camping with some hotels thrown in. you hit lots of great spots...Agua Verde being my
favorite for getting away from it all.
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mooose29
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Registered: 10-1-2008
Location: Encinitas/Punta Chivato, Rancho Partera
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Love the report. Thank you for taking the time.
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David K
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Thank you for your big trip report. Sounds like all went well and the Tundra held up just fine. Baja awaits your return!
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TMW
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Wow a month in Baja relaxing, fishing and having fun. It doesn't get any better. Thanks
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BajaBlanca
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Registered: 10-28-2008
Location: La Bocana, BCS
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That was a really nice report! I think you did brilliantly to mix hotels (and nice ones at that) with camping. Yin and Yang.
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TLBaja79
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On the Road near Catavina
Leaving San Ignacio out towards the Salt Flats
Airing Down, checking things for the dirt road
Salt Flats, one of those towns along the way
Camp Breakfast!
Great Sunset
The San Juanico weather Station
The great view from La Mision, Sunrise!
Looks like a nice spot to camp!
On to Los Barriles for some real livin!
The morning View!
Back up to Loreto area
CLAMS!!
Another Loreto Sunrise!!
Everybody's seen this one...
And after a nice long trip its never easy to see it end but it was a good run in Baja! time to get back to reality and work. Until next time, adios
Baja!
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David K
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Super photos and excellent posting of them, perfect! Thank you!
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TMW
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Yes, love the pictures. Thanks
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TLBaja79
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This is the sunset pic. Near Mag Bay
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BornFisher
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Great report, thanks for the Baja fix!!!
"When you catch a fish, you open the door of happiness."
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