| Pages:
1
2
3 |
Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9010
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
|
|
Whatever you do, DO NOT RUN AN ABSORPTION (PROPANE STYLE) FRIDGE ON THE 12V SETTING, IF IT HAS ONE!!!! I am not talking about the 12v current that is
supplied to the control panel. I'm talking about using 12v to cool the fridge. Even with current supplied by your vehicle's charging system, it is
unlikely that enough current is getting through the small gauge wiring that connects your truck to the camper's house battery. The draw is something
like 20 amps at 12 v. And if you forget to switch to propane when you stop for lunch, you can do your house battery serious damage unless you have
something that cuts off the power at about 11.5 volts.
12v COMPRESSOR fridges are great, but you better have enough battery capacity and solar generation to support it.
|
|
|
aguachico
Senior Nomad
Posts: 602
Registered: 3-23-2007
Location: tijuana
Member Is Offline
Mood: logic cannot get thru to the illogical
|
|
The new 12 volt fridges have sensor protection build in. I'm lusting over the Dometik or the ARB
|
|
|
PaulW
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3074
Registered: 5-21-2013
Member Is Offline
|
|
True the RV absorption frig's do not have a 12v low voltage cutoff. A serious omission in the design. I always stop for lunch with the thing on 12v
and have no issue with the house battery. I guess because the frig is already cold. Of course if the house battery was old it sure would be an issue.
The portable frig/freezers do have the low voltage cutoff settings. However I let mine sit 4 days with the frig on and car parked and the result was
no start. I had the voltage cutoff set at the mid point. So constant cycling at that cutoff point was enough to lower the battery so the thing would
not start.
|
|
|
Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9010
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
|
|
Those are probably not absorption fridges. It's the older, 3-way absorptions fridge's 12v setting that is the real power robber.
I have found the best of both worlds in continuing to use my 6 cf absorption fridge with my 40 qt Norcold compressor fridge. The absorption works
SLIGHTLY better on 115v than propane, but I can go a long time on two, 7.5 gallon propane tanks. I am rarely plugged in to grid current when camping.
Not a fan of RV parks. So, all foods go into the absorption fridge and all beverages go into the compressor. I can keep beverages in the low 30s and
not have to worry about damaging produce. The small absorption freezer keeps the few frozen things frozen, but also makes ice each night for mixed
drinks. I leave home with a gallon ziplock of cubes and make more each night in camp, when necessary.
However, I am not able to make enough to take any kind of sizable ice chest out in a boat. That requires a purchase and is the only ice I have bought
on the road in the last 5 years of travel. Nice not having to deal with melting ice.
The problem I find with the compressor fridges is that you have to buy the larger ones to have a separate refrigerator and freezer section and that
gets expensive fast. And then you have reduced your refrigerator section to a very small amount. Beer is a big space hog. Did I mention that beer is a
necessity?
You can rebuild the "guts" of an absorption fridge for much cheaper and keep the increased capacity. There are also lots of decent Dometic absorption
fridges from the early - mid 2000s out there that simply have a defective control board that owners never replaced. Dinosaur makes great after-market
control boards that fix the problem and give you more control over the cooling process. Leveling has never been much of an issue for me; I dont want
to sleep in the camper on an uneven surface that would make an absorption fridge inefficient, anyway. That's what the orange "legos" are for.
|
|
|
PaulW
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3074
Registered: 5-21-2013
Member Is Offline
|
|
Hook,
Of interest for day trips I have a Dometec CDF11 (1.5 liter) compressor frig/freezer. Works like my 50 liter one I use for camping. The CDF11 is
targeted for the cross country trucker segment as it is a 12v only unit, For precooling I use a 110/12v converter. It has the 3 voltage cutoff like
the big one. It has the dual compartments deep one for coldest and upper small one for warmer things. Holds a large quantity of 12 oz cans or typical
water bottles. Wide range of pricing so be sure to shop around for the best price.
Sure nice to get rid of buying ice. Obviously it would work on your boat depending on your electrical system and battery size.
BTW, the cup/drink holders are not cooled, just for convenience. I see some off road rigs that are using this unit to replace their console.
|
|
|
chrishaynesusa
Junior Nomad
Posts: 65
Registered: 8-19-2017
Member Is Offline
|
|
|
|
|
mtgoat666
Select Nomad
Posts: 18375
Registered: 9-16-2006
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
Mood: Hot n spicy
|
|
looks fancy!
but it seems a bit impractical as it leaves no room for luggage, kids and dogs
Woke!
“...ask not what your country can do for you – ask what you can do for your country.” “My fellow citizens of the world: ask not what America
will do for you, but what together we can do for the freedom of man.”
Prefered gender pronoun: the royal we
|
|
|
chrishaynesusa
Junior Nomad
Posts: 65
Registered: 8-19-2017
Member Is Offline
|
|
Roof rack for luggage, front and rear seats for passengers.
trailer for gear :grin:
[/threadjack]
[Edited on 10-18-2017 by chrishaynesusa]
|
|
|
aguachico
Senior Nomad
Posts: 602
Registered: 3-23-2007
Location: tijuana
Member Is Offline
Mood: logic cannot get thru to the illogical
|
|
 Bad ass looking rig.
|
|
|
Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9010
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
|
|
Mr. Haynes, thanks for the pics of your incredible rig.
Not being too familiar with ARB fridges, do you set one for freezing and one for 35+ ?
|
|
|
blackwolfmt
Senior Nomad
Posts: 802
Registered: 1-18-2014
Location: On The Beach With A Blackwolf
Member Is Offline
Mood: dreamin of Riden out a hurricane in Baja
|
|
yeah really NIICCCCEE Rig for sure
So understand dont waste your time always searching for those wasted years
face up and make your stand and realize that your living in the golden years
|
|
|
chrishaynesusa
Junior Nomad
Posts: 65
Registered: 8-19-2017
Member Is Offline
|
|
Quote: Originally posted by Hook  | Mr. Haynes, thanks for the pics of your incredible rig.
Not being too familiar with ARB fridges, do you set one for freezing and one for 35+ ? |
Yes , one for freezing stuff and one for cool stuff. 
|
|
|
Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9010
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
|
|
I didnt mention that I do have a Kyocera solar panel on my camper. I have seen it put out (reading at the charge controller) as much as 8 amps @ 14.5
volts. For my purposes, preferring to camp off grid, I dont think I would consider using a compressor fridge without one. We will sometimes be in one
location for 7-10 days, so no driving to charge the house battery. If you are moving every other day, solar might not be necessary.
My 40qt Norcold compressor fridge draws 2.1 amps @ 12v, according to the spec sheet. I have no idea if that is 2.1/hr or 2.1 amps while the compressor
is running. On a fridge setting, it probably kicks in about once every 10 minutes in an ambient temp of 80-85 degrees F. Probably runs for 3-5
minutes.
I also have a battery separator between the truck batteries and the house battery that allows charging (in either direction) when voltage in either
location exceeds 13.2 volts. The charge controller is a two-bank controller that allows you to send 50/50% or 90/10% of its charge to the house/truck
batteries, respectively. I use the 90/10 setting.
It also isolates the two systems below that 13.2 threshold, so while it could be possible to run down your house battery (low sunlight for multiple
days, high draw for some reason), the truck batteries are protected.
I actually did make up a jumper cable that bypasses the battery separator, if I wanted to combine the battery systems below 13.2 volts. But so far,
the solar panel has made that unnecessary.
The jump start units really arent an option for most diesel trucks. Just not enough CCAs. My truck uses two GP 27 sized batteries as starting
batteries.
This is all basic stuff for owners of most types of RVs with solar. But I thought I would write it up for those with conventional vehicles who are
considering adding a compressor fridge and a solar panel and controller. If there is some way you can shoehorn in a "house" battery and isolate it,
it's real peace of mind.
|
|
|
hermosok123
Nomad
Posts: 102
Registered: 12-11-2016
Member Is Offline
|
|
truck camper fridge question
How big is your panel and what size and brand charge controller are you using. Thanks
|
|
|
Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9010
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
|
|
Just looked for the paperwork on the system I bought. Cant find it. But my best recollection is that the panel was a 140 watt panel.
I do have the info on the charge controller. It was the Morningstar Sunsaver Duo and I bought the remote meter, too. It will accommodate up to 25 amps
of solar power across two battery banks. It also compensates for temperature at the controller, itself.
My system is now about 7 years old. I paid just over 300.00 back then, including wiring and mounts for the panel. The battery was extra.
|
|
|
Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9010
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
|
|
Addendum: Originally, I bought a group 31 Lifeline battery. It was 290.00 from that guy in Texas who sells the most in the US. HIs was the best price,
at the time. But it only lasted five years; mostly because it spent 10 months a year in Mexico. The heat of May, June and part of July and part of
October, probably took its toll on its life expectancy. Five years isnt bad, but the Lifeline distributor told me guys in the Pac NW can get 10 years,
because their temperature range rarely exceeds 80, nor below 50.
I have replaced it with a conventional, fill-occasionally, group 31 Interstate battery for less than half the cost. I dont really have to have a
sealed battery, as the camper has an exterior compartment that is easy to access.
For anyone with an eligible Big Three vehicle, this is an interesting product. It's a battery box that hangs from the underside chassis. Can be wired
to your existing truck charging system with their wiring harness, too. This would be an out of the way source for a primary or secondary house
battery.
https://www.torklift.com/automotive/hiddenpower
|
|
|
aguachico
Senior Nomad
Posts: 602
Registered: 3-23-2007
Location: tijuana
Member Is Offline
Mood: logic cannot get thru to the illogical
|
|
Lifeline batteries are great. I have two group 27 batteries in my boat. They are not cheap, but handle any conditions are supposed to hold the
military contract for batts.
|
|
|
Buckland
Newbie
Posts: 3
Registered: 12-27-2015
Member Is Offline
|
|
I have the Isotherm 12V 65L. Great fridge, quiet, super efficient. Have a 160 W solar panel and 2 AGM batteries. Never ram out of juice or cold beer!
|
|
|
Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9010
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
Member Is Offline
Mood: Inquisitive
|
|
| Quote: Originally posted by Buckland | | I have the Isotherm 12V 65L. Great fridge, quiet, super efficient. Have a 160 W solar panel and 2 AGM batteries. Never ram out of juice or cold beer!
|
Show us your unit, please.
DC only? Fridge only? Fridge/freezer? Chest type or built-in?
|
|
|
David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64845
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
|
|
Careful Hook, Doug wants this not to be any more than PG-13 stuff! 
|
|
|
| Pages:
1
2
3 |
![[*]](images/xmbforum/default_icon.gif){kind=icon}
