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Author: Subject: Beach Camping Puertecitos to Gonzaga Bay
David K
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[*] posted on 10-9-2021 at 09:05 AM


Quote: Originally posted by WestyWanderer  
Pacard

Puertecitos has a few nice campgrounds, Octavios is on the north end as you enter town and is much less popular than the main campground on the bay. The main campground (Clara’s) mid week it’s usually pretty empty, it fills up on the weekend. It’s pricy at $27 a night but that includes water at your campsite, showers and toilets, a nice sandy beach, and unlimited access to the hot springs.






Clara's (in Puertecitos on the cove):





Hot springs (when the tide is right) sulfur water mixes with sea water, on the left side of the point that makes the cove, before the boat launch ramp:









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[*] posted on 10-9-2021 at 09:11 AM


Quote: Originally posted by WestyWanderer  
South of Puertecitos at campo La Costilla (KM 84.5) camping is $10 a night and it will be very quiet, it’s also on a nice bay but services are limited to a very old outhouse. Not sure when you’re headed south, but at Campo Christina (KM 84) there is a restaurant that should be open Saturday and Sunday, she usually opens around mid October.

There are a few places you can pull off and camp for free, both close to the highway and further away, depending on how much off roading you want to do.


Bahía Cristina (Km. 83):


La Costilla (Km. 84.5):

Photo taken from view parking at Km. 84.




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Skipjack Joe
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[*] posted on 10-9-2021 at 11:14 AM


I had a scary experience on a desolate beach near Huefernitos last year. It happened at night. I would recommend going to a campground. My Mexican neighbors had all warned me against isolated camping in that area as well due to drug trafficking. Peace of mind is important during a Baja experience.
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[*] posted on 10-9-2021 at 01:17 PM


Thanks for the pics and insights! Getting pumped to head outa
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[*] posted on 10-10-2021 at 11:12 AM


Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe  
I had a scary experience on a desolate beach near Huefernitos last year. It happened at night. I would recommend going to a campground. My Mexican neighbors had all warned me against isolated camping in that area as well due to drug trafficking. Peace of mind is important during a Baja experience.


What happened? If you care to share.
I have been also been advised against remote beach camping in the general area between Huerfanito and Gonzaga, because of the chance of being spotted by bad guys in boats who might target a solitary camper. It seems that some remote landings are known as places where smugglers load/unload boats with contraband, though where the contraband is coming from and where it is going is a mystery to me. The goal is to bypass the checkpoints on the highways when going north, I suppose. The same activity occurs at some of the remote landings on the Pacific side, so they say.

That brings up a point about safely camping in remote areas. Its best to avoid remote landings at that general latitude, as well as the roads that go to them. Better to be up on a cliff where there is no place to land a boat, and get away from the main roads that lead to such landings.

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[*] posted on 10-10-2021 at 01:29 PM


Quote: Originally posted by bajaric  
Quote: Originally posted by Skipjack Joe  
I had a scary experience on a desolate beach near Huefernitos last year. It happened at night. I would recommend going to a campground. My Mexican neighbors had all warned me against isolated camping in that area as well due to drug trafficking. Peace of mind is important during a Baja experience.


What happened? If you care to share.
I have been also been advised against remote beach camping in the general area between Huerfanito and Gonzaga, because of the chance of being spotted by bad guys in boats who might target a solitary camper. It seems that some remote landings are known as places where smugglers load/unload boats with contraband, though where the contraband is coming from and where it is going is a mystery to me. The goal is to bypass the checkpoints on the highways when going north, I suppose. The same activity occurs at some of the remote landings on the Pacific side, so they say.

That brings up a point about safely camping in remote areas. Its best to avoid remote landings at that general latitude, as well as the roads that go to them. Better to be up on a cliff where there is no place to land a boat, and get away from the main roads that lead to such landings.



Just north of Huefernito there is a bridge with a dirt road leading under the bridge to what looked like an attractive little cove. I camped there with the intention of catching the early light to photograph those red cliffs that drop down to the blue water. I drove around the corner along the beach to where my truck could not be seen from the highway. I had put up the top and was cooking a late dinner around 11pm when I heard the sound of a vehicle. I looked out the back door and saw a vehicle driving towards me without it's headlights on in pitch black darkness. I froze, expecting the worst. It came right at me and passed my truck within 5 feet of it and drove on maybe another 50 feet. By then a panga had come in to where they were. It was dead calm in there. The panga also came in with no lights on. There was an interchange going on between the panga and the 4wd but I couldn't see what it was and I didn't want to look as though I was looking. I dropped my top and without turning on my headlights I drove backwards on the sand until I found a spot to turn. Then I kept driving up to the highway without my headlights on. It was only on the highway that I started to feel some measure of safety. I turned on my lights and headed with haste to Gonzaga where I spent the night in the parking lot by the market.

In years past this would not have been a big deal. But the fact that everything I witnessed was done in total darkness made me pretty sure these were not people who welcomed my company. Having read some of the stories here I fully expected gunfire and robbery in my direction. But that was not their intent. I also worried that they might do me violence for being a witness. The kitchen knife I held in my hand seemed pitiful at the time in light of what they likely had. Anyway, it was unnerving. But it's over and now I wonder how close I had come to .... you know.

[Edited on 10-10-2021 by Skipjack Joe]
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[*] posted on 10-10-2021 at 02:45 PM
A similar, but les stressful encounter


Just before dusk, I was on hwy 1 just north of Puerto Escondido. As I sometimes do, I drove down an arroyo to a beach (Rattlesnake?) looking for a place for my dog and I to spend the night.

After I got myself set up in a brushy area, I discovered that I wasn't alone! A young Mexican man, and a young Gringo lady had a small tent, kind of hidden in the brush not too far from me.

They were pleasant, but not overly thrilled to have company, so I gave them as much space as I could, without packing up and leaving.

Shortly after dark, I heard an outboard heading our way. No lights on the panga, no lights or campfire on shore, but the panga cruised right up in front of their camp, and they both jumped in.

Nothing was unloaded from the boat, then or when he brought them back many hours later! All that makes sense to me, is that they were out fishing in the dark for some species that was illegal, or out of season!

What do you think?




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[*] posted on 10-11-2021 at 09:59 PM


I experienced an uncomfortable hour at about 11pm on Percebu (aka Shell Island) camping all alone on the beach listening to a panga putter around with no lights. I hoped they were just doing some illegal fishing.



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David K
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[*] posted on 10-12-2021 at 08:29 AM


Fishermen working the waters in the dark is normal but not common. They see by moonlight or starlight. It is easier to make out the coastline if the glare of boat lights isn't blinding them. In all the times I have camped on Shell Island (since 1978), I never experienced fear or saw any obvious illegal activity. Hope that puts you more at ease.



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[*] posted on 10-12-2021 at 08:32 AM


Thanks David. Appreciate hearing that. The thread morphed a bit.
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David K
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[*] posted on 10-12-2021 at 11:52 AM


Quote: Originally posted by pacard17  
Thanks David. Appreciate hearing that. The thread morphed a bit.


Please only travel to places you are comfortable with. I am more relaxed because Baja has been my special place since I was a kid in the 60s. We took a short break from Mexico when the cartel in Tijuana killed a friend's relative in 2006 and of course in 2020+ for Covid.

I was freaked one evening in 2017, traveling alone, when I thought I was miles from another human on a beach (near Punta San Francisquito on Bahia San Rafael). All of a sudden a truck drives by on the beach! Where did he come from, I wondered? A bit later, he drove back past me again... I was not on the beach but in a little sand gully off the beach. I am sure he saw my campfire. The only thing I imagined was a drug runner... but on his return, I saw several fishing poles. I had an inReach and was letting my Nomad friends know where I was in case that was my last day! LOL

I can't say enough good things about the inReach! Shows everyone you want where you are, let's you exchange short text messages and emails, and gives you a moving map as you drive (mates with your smart phone for a bigger screen and keyboard for texting).

Nomad 'rob' at Playas Pacificas took a photo of me holding the two:




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[*] posted on 10-12-2021 at 11:59 AM


I have a global beacon if necessary. Once youve backpacked the jungles of jamaica, you tend to feel comfortable...in uncomfortable situations 😉
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[*] posted on 10-12-2021 at 12:27 PM


Quote: Originally posted by David K  
Fishermen working the waters in the dark is normal but not common. They see by moonlight or starlight. It is easier to make out the coastline if the glare of boat lights isn't blinding them. In all the times I have camped on Shell Island (since 1978), I never experienced fear or saw any obvious illegal activity. Hope that puts you more at ease.


thats ridiculous, the fish camp in gonzaga bay is dormant all day long until the sun goes down then the small city comes to life, panga's shuffle in and out all night long until day break
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David K
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[*] posted on 10-12-2021 at 12:52 PM


Read again... I said it was normal.
'geoffff' was at Shell Island (not Gonzaga Bay) and there, it is not common to hear pangas in the dark, but I have heard them. Sometimes with a nav light and sometimes not. Most of the times I have camped there, we see or hear no boats, except during the shrimp season.




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[*] posted on 10-12-2021 at 05:08 PM


I've been told that a lot of the guns that cross over to the mainland do so from Baja and the sea of Cortez coat line? True or not I don't know but it is not a long run even in a Panga?
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[*] posted on 10-12-2021 at 06:18 PM


I have come to the conclusion that you are safer camping a bit more inland in that area than right on the beach. Trouble is that camping on the beach is really the whole point of camping in that area. Inland camping just isn't the same experience.
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[*] posted on 10-14-2021 at 08:51 AM


To be honest, I really don't know if remote beach camping south of Huerfanito is unsafe, or safe. The context of the warning that I heard was from a resident in a local campo, who said that he was more worried about thieves arriving from the sea than from land, and this was 5 years ago. I really don't know if the beaches are used by smugglers, or not.

I will say this, many open (non paid campsite) beaches in the area where it is possible to launch a panga are occupied by seasonal fish camps, with accompanying issues of flies, fish smells, etc. So maybe best to stay in a paid campo, or if remote camping pick a beach where you cannot launch a panga due to access issues (soft sand) or lack of boat launching opportunities. Unless you like fish camps.

With the new highway, the area is getting more visitors from Mexicali and other parts of Baja. Was there last week and traffic on the highway has increased a lot, meaning it went from almost no traffic to a little. Enjoy your trip!
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