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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9011
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
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Let's talk solar panel on an RV
First off, I have a smallish Lance camper: 9-4. It's on a diesel truck.
I can see a situation where I might be in one location for more than a few days and really dont want to listen to a diesel engine or a genny for even
a few hours every few days. Big on dry camping.
So, I am thinking an 85 watt panel with a charge controller might be great. I have a 12v electric freezer that would be nice to keep running 24/7. It
draws 2.5 amps @ 12v. Not sure if that is just while the motor is running or 2.5a/hour of use. But an 85 watt panel should support that. Running a
group 31 12v lead acid as that's about all the room I have without some mods that will only steal storage space. All other electrical draws are
minimal; have even gone to a small propane space heater that is WAY quieter than the stock space heater.
My main question is whether some can recommend a mounting system and specific place to buy (with panel and other hardware, of course). I'd like one
that would be roof mounted that can tilt towards the sun.
I like the roof mount idea cause it's out of the way, less likely to be plundered. A non-mounted one would have to go on the bed for transporting
and,well, there's already stuff up there.
As I do travel on dirt, must I take steps to minimize the physical shock the panel would receive up there? Just rubber washers or ?
I'd welcome any advice on how to proceed.
Also, I've heard that a charge controller can still cook a battery. How can I prevent that, short of physical disconnects? I like electronic
solutions.
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Neal Johns
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Location: Lytle Creek, CA
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Hook, one thing that is missing is how long you will be dry camping. If you really want to camp several days and run your freezer 24/7, consider a
portable 1000 watt Honda generator. Very quite, small, and light, quite unlike the old ones. The old ones had to run at full speed to keep the output
at 60 Hz while the current ones run slow when there is a small output demand. Put it on the other side of your rig and you won't even hear it. About
the same price as a solar setup.
If you go solar, get a bigger panel than 85 watts. The 85 watts is at full sunlight hitting the panel full on when the panel is cool (normal heating
reduces the output). Even adjusting the tilt frequently, as the day wears on, the output goes down. A good charge controller will have a taper down
charge that will not cook your battery just as an automobile voltage regulator regulates..
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
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http://www.unirac.com/spec.htm I think Camping World carries these.
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Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
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Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
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hook
just buy a honda 2000 at mayberrys
around $900 including shipping
http://mayberrys.com/honda/generator/html/selection.htm
honda1000 is too small
this is sooooo quiet and will run all night on less than a tank of gas
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Hook
Elite Nomad
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There is no such thing as a quiet generator, gentlemen. There are QUIETER generators than others. I have owned a Honda 1k and 2k and we have a 3k at
work (the quietest of the bunch). I currently have a Yammy that is just a few db louder than those and it has eco-throttle.
No, I want the freedom and quiet of solar when I know I'm on a trip where I wont need to run the A/C. And that's almost all the time, since we love
the heat.
Remember, being diesel, I would have to carry separate fuel just for the genny. I avoid having to use cans unless it is the only solution.
Besides, the genny solution doesnt add to the man-toy collection. 
No, my electrical needs are minor enough that I shouldnt have to resort to a genny, though I could. Rarely watch TV (almost never bring it). Listen
to the radio and read around camp. Some drinking and eating have also been observed.
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Hook
Elite Nomad
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Neal Johns
Hook, one thing that is missing is how long you will be dry camping. If you really want to camp several days and run your freezer 24/7, consider a
portable 1000 watt Honda generator. Very quite, small, and light, quite unlike the old ones. The old ones had to run at full speed to keep the output
at 60 Hz while the current ones run slow when there is a small output demand. Put it on the other side of your rig and you won't even hear it. About
the same price as a solar setup.
If you go solar, get a bigger panel than 85 watts. The 85 watts is at full sunlight hitting the panel full on when the panel is cool (normal heating
reduces the output). Even adjusting the tilt frequently, as the day wears on, the output goes down. A good charge controller will have a taper down
charge that will not cook your battery just as an automobile voltage regulator regulates.. |
Neal, I really dont have the room for more than one panel up there. Too many vents and appliances and such. I'd also like to leave room for a chair or
two.
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BajaWarrior
Super Nomad
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Location: Mission Bay, San Diego. Playa Hermosa, San Felipe.
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Hook, you might want more than the 85 watts for a panel, and maybe consider isolating the two systems, so the camper lights/pump aren't draining the
juice for the freezer and visa versa.
We're going to get an electric fridge for our solar home below San Felipe, and I will isolate the system, maybe running 4 6volt batteries, a couple of
panels, and it's own invertor and regulator.
Aluminum angle is what I used to mount all of my existing panels, easy to work with and non-corrosive. Two on the roof flat, and two for your
adjustable legs, pretty simple. Also, I used #12 Hex Head self tapping screws for everything, which are easily turned with a 5/16 nut driver on a
cordless drill. One size screw makes it real convineant.
Hope this helps.
I agree with the quiet camping too, but you'll probably still bring the Honda 1000 anyway. We bring ours and will charge the trailer batteries every
other day when we're camping with our Toy Hauler on the Pacific side in the summer.
Haven't had a bad trip yet....
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Al G
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2647
Registered: 12-19-2004
Location: Todos Santos/Full time for now...
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Hook...as you said forget Gensets...in the mobile world this is old school. Sure they can have a back-up role but this is becoming less and less. If
you have a motor and an alternator...most people traveling by a vehicle have a motor...I think...
My solution was:
2 Kyocera KC85T 85 watt @ $449.95 each
http://www.altersystems.com/catalog/kyocera-kc85t-85-watt-so...
@ 5.2 amp hr...best producer in most price ranges.
combined those with..
Blue Sky's bad ass 2000e 25 amp controller that gives you everything you can ask @ $228.00
http://www.altersystems.com/catalog/charge-controllers-blue-...
This bad boy boost the output of both panels to a total of 15 amps.
I installed this on a friends RV (5'er) and he only had 2 12v deep cycles and it worked so well he had me remove 1 panel...he was only using a few
lights and entertainment TV-radio never needed to start his gen-set again.
There is no need for a inverter if you use all 12 volt...he did borrow a 600 watt from me, but decided to get a 12v combo TV/DVD.
I think you will need two 85s with the refer. If you check the spec's 2- 85's are more efficient then 1- 170 watt...plus easier to mount...plus if one
quits your are not dead in the water...plus they are not as flexible so if you drop one as I did (from the top of my Motorhome it may not break...mine
did not. 
Albert G
Remember, if you haven\'t got a smile on your face and laughter in your heart, then you are just a sour old fart!....
The most precious thing we have is life, yet it has absolutely no trade-in value.
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msteve1014
Senior Nomad
Posts: 947
Registered: 12-2-2006
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Hook, I have an ARB freezer in my camper. it draws about what you are saying. I have 2, 60 watt panels and they wont quite keep up with the freezer
and the lights in my small camper. they are old panels and most likely are not putting out what they used to. i have now added a third, 30 watt panel
and they are keeping up a full charge now. i got the panels for free, otherwise i would have been very disapointed with the output and all the work,
just to run that freezer. get a larger panel, you will find all kinds of uses for the power when you have it. Mike
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Al G
Ultra Nomad
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I meant to say...do not cheap out when it comes to a controller...this is the trick. the one I mentioned is turnkey...a ton of info, but you don't do
anything...except to check the water.
Albert G
Remember, if you haven\'t got a smile on your face and laughter in your heart, then you are just a sour old fart!....
The most precious thing we have is life, yet it has absolutely no trade-in value.
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BigWooo
Senior Nomad
Posts: 579
Registered: 1-2-2007
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I think Al G’s setup is about what you’ll need:
For an example, I calculated your solar needs guessing the freezer runs 12 hrs a day and you use two 15-watt bulbs for 3 hours a night each.
Solar panels only charge at their peak for about 4.5 to 6.5 hours a day depending on orientation of the panel and your location. I used an average of
5 hours of peak charging a day for my calculations.
With the above power usage you’ll need about 175 watts worth of solar panels (two 85 watt panels) and at least 187 amps of battery storage. 187 amps
of battery storage will be enough to get you through two cloudy days before your battery drains below 50%.
To calculate your actual power needs you’ll have to measure exactly how much power your freezer uses in 24 hours. Search through Bob and Susan’s
posts. They bought a thing called Kilowatt that measures power use. Might be useful for you.
I’ve used the same panel on two different campers (10 + years now). I mount it flat. That lessens the power output, but my energy needs are only 12v
fluorescent lights and fans.
Check RV websites. There are special panel mount kits for campers. I don’t remember where I got mine, but it was super easy to install. You don’t
need to put in any special mount to dampen the vibration, the panels are pretty tough. I’ve broken the frame on my truck 5 times on bad roads and I’m
in my second camper. The panel is still going strong.
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Hook
Elite Nomad
Posts: 9011
Registered: 3-13-2004
Location: Sonora
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Getting some good advice here................
Soulpatch, no, it is just my house battery. It is isolated from the starting batts and is charged while the diesel beast is running. But it is only
one batt.
Big Wooo, you're right. I should get that thing before making any decisions. Could use it to measure the average draw of the entire house on a typical
trip.
But I am no where near 187 amps of storage on this battery; only 120 amp/hrs @20 amp rate. I have a way of going with two 6v but am resisting it so
far as it will steal valuable storage. Both cannot reside in the batt compartment.
Msteve-mines a Norcold label, the 40 MRFT or something.
Al G- GOT IT, on the controller. Very important.
Pomp-escapees.com, of course. I have been reading about vehicle registration methods through them. Time to look them up.
Warrior- I guess if I'm on a real long trip (which I hope all of them will be shortly), I would have the genny. Would you agree that it makes more
sense to run the gen and charge with an outboard charger? My internal is only a 3 amp charger, the generator's is only 8 amp I believe. I have a smart
charger that does 2/20/40. Thinking I should run the genny and power the smart charger.
Keep those retail recommendations coming..............
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salvavida
Junior Nomad
Posts: 29
Registered: 10-29-2007
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If it's a 3 way like the cabover I have use the propane. It goes almost 18 days on a 10 gallon running on high. I also have a 110 watt solar on the
roof with 2 inlilne deep cycle marines mounted in the camper. They perform well on the 12 volt function but the freezer does not stay as cold. Put
rubber bushings between the solar panels and the roof, helps with washboard vibration and use more mounts than you think you'll need. West Marine
offers great solar systems.
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Hook
Elite Nomad
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Thanks for your input, Salvavida.
The problem with the built-in freezer (which is only a two way, BTW) is that it's so small. A few fillets, some Dreyers, ice for the margs, that's
about it. The Norcold is a portable that runs on 12/24v or 110.
I thought of something else that does get pretty heavy use...........a Fantastic Fan. That definitely ups the need for another panel.
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Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8813
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kil-a-watt
http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Kill-A-Watt-Electricity-usage-monito...
everyone using solar and bateries NEEDS one
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msteve1014
Senior Nomad
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you can plan on the freezer drawing that 2.5 amps 24 hours a day in the summer on the s.o.c. In the spring or fall, or on the pacific, it does not
have to work as hard, but I would get enough panel to run 24/7 and then some. I have had my freezer for a few years and more than a few trips. we have
camped for weeks at a time and never run the truck
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msteve1014
Senior Nomad
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the kil a watt thing does not look like it will help on a 12 vdc set up on a camper, better for a house
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Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
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yea only 110v (house current)
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jorgie
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my system gives me 5 camping days with 900 amps use.......on 2x12 deep cycle marine batts......if I hhad room the way I would go would be 2x6 with a
600 honda backup..............small solar systems have limits as does small battery space
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BigWooo
Senior Nomad
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| Quote: | Originally posted by msteve1014
the kil a watt thing does not look like it will help on a 12 vdc set up on a camper, better for a house |
Duh...I didn't think of that, but would this work:
When you plug your camper into the wall, the converter in the camper converts the 120VAC to 12VDC. So, if Hooks converter is connected to the
freezer, could he plug the camper AC power cord into the kilawatt, turn on the freezer and read it's power use on the kilawatt?
The converter probably has some power draw that you would have to subtract out, maybe 20-30 watts?
If this works he should be able to measure the power use of the fantastic fan, lights etc also.
[Edited on 12-15-2007 by BigWooo]
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