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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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INTERMISSION
The next stop will be Guerrero Negro and the fabled Los Caracoles Hotel. Barack-O explains his experiments as a youth and Pompano finds some white
powder in the room..
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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capt. mike
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8085
Registered: 11-26-2002
Location: Bat Cave
Member Is Offline
Mood: Sling time!
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hey, who did you get to ride shotgun anyway?
formerly Ordained in Rev. Ewing\'s Church by Mail - busted on tax fraud.......
Now joined L. Ron Hoover\'s church of Appliantology
\"Remember there is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over....\"
www.facebook.com/michael.l.goering |
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 65069
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Great stuff Roger... You are on your way to making a new Baja Road Log!
The photo of the boulder near Cataviña: It is facing north... did you pass it and stop and take a photo of it from the south... or did the photo get
developed in reverse??
Thanks and keep up the good posts... Check the new Nomad who asked about Capt. Muñoz... J.W. Black's name came into the conversation.
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Bob H
Elite Nomad
Posts: 5867
Registered: 8-19-2003
Location: San Diego
Member Is Offline
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Wow, this is just fantastic! Wish I was the shotgunner!
Bob H
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Martyman
Super Nomad
Posts: 1904
Registered: 9-10-2004
Member Is Offline
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Ask Hillary what she thinks of Monica!
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toneart
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 4901
Registered: 7-23-2006
Member Is Offline
Mood: Skeptical
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Pompano
there is no such thing as conversation anymore, just intersecting monologues...
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Roger. You really nailed our present human condition here!
What a great road log! I am happy to be brought along for the ride. Thank You!
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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Mi 'escopeta de caballo.....??'
| Quote: | Originally posted by capt. mike
hey, who did you get to ride shotgun anyway? |
Mike....here she is...AND...she has her own shotgun. A trifle sleepy at times, though.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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| Quote: | Originally posted by David K
Great stuff Roger... You are on your way to making a new Baja Road Log!
The photo of the boulder near Cataviña: It is facing north... did you pass it and stop and take a photo of it from the south... or did the photo get
developed in reverse??
Thanks and keep up the good posts... Check the new Nomad who asked about Capt. Muñoz... J.W. Black's name came into the conversation.
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David...with this crew, a straight course is highly improbable..
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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| Quote: | Originally posted by toneart
| Quote: | Originally posted by Pompano
there is no such thing as conversation anymore, just intersecting monologues...
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Roger. You really nailed our present human condition here!
What a great road log! I am happy to be brought along for the ride. Thank You! |
toneart...I do a lot of bathroom reading.
Tony, Bob, and all...Thanks for coming along on our Baja jaunt. Always room for all.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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The Road Trip...continues...
It is a mere 25 miles or so from Carmelita’s to the state line of Baja California Norte and Baja California Sur.
Here we see the Pemex station (they do have diesel) just north of the Mexican Army Base, plus one of the old original Presidente Hotels (now known as
La Pintas), and of course the very noticeable tall metal eagle sculpture that dominates the landscape for miles in every direction.
(I seem to have missed the ‘short-cut’ around the checkpoint again...darn.)
I have not stayed in a Presidente-La Pinta since the 70's, so I cannot give any report about them today. I do know they were ‘hit and miss’ soon
after their construction as to: hot water, any water, electricity, short-wave radio service, and were completely without heat in the bedrooms. We
usually had a good time just patronizing the cantina and restaurant sections, then camping nearby.
For many years now, there has been a federal checkpoint at this state border. Both immigration and agricultural officials are stationed here to check
documents and administer regulations.
Expect to be asked for fruits and vegetables..and sometimes meats. Your vehicle will be sprayed and you must pay a fee for such. Usually about 10-20
pesos.
We pull up and stop. A nice lady ag-agent comes from her oficina and politely asks if we have any fruits or veggies. No mention this time of meats.
“No frutas, senorita...nada”...I say.
She then walks around to the passenger’s open window to put a small mirror under John M’s nose.
To her satisfacion, it fogs.
John jerks, opens his eyes and smiles. She smiles back and says.....'Gracias, amigos..Have a nice trip. Bien viaje.'
Now it’s immigration’s turn. Taking down vehicle license, our names, etc. No problema. We are all fine with our various FM-2's, 3 US SENATE bathroom
passes, and a box of voter registration cards under Hilary’s seat.
Here is a photo of the eagle monument from 1974. It looks a tad different today...all dressed up.
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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We decide to pull in and spend the night at ‘GN’ before it gets too late in the day. It’s about 5:30 p.m. Plenty of time to find a motel and a good
meal.
Driving the Baja Road at night is not that dangerous, but just not that much fun......and why pass up a chance to check some local sights of a city we
usually overlook?
Some neat facts about..Gerro Negor...Gwayrow Negra...Grreraro Negative..??
C’mon DK, help a guy out here!
Did you know the official name of the town is Port Venustiano Carranza?...or PVC as some local plumbers say...well, maybe they don’t, but they SHOULD.
The name Guerrero Negro came from a 1800's whaling ship called Black Warrior, which was wrecked on a treacherous sandbar while attempting Vizcaino Bay
to hunt grays.
Average annual temp in 'PVC' is a mild 72...pretty much the same temperature as San Diego.
The town exists today because of the sea salt industry started here in 1957....which is the biggest supplier of table salt in the world. Over 7
million tons a year, I was told.
Well, that’s a bunch... so I scooped both my empty salt/pepper shakers full. Forgive me, Lord, but my french fries need it.
While you are in the area, you can go kayaking around the salt marshes, and observe all kinds of birdlife: white pelican, the red-tailed hawk, white
and black cranes, the golden eagle, and the sea eagle. The Vizcaino Desert is just to the east....duh....west is the ocean, Einstein. Impressive
flora and fauna, amazing cacti and wide variety of animal species, such as pumas, coyotes, deer, bighorn sheep, antelopes, interlopers, and foxes.
The golden eagle is Guerrero Negro's emblem and you can spot several nests on the lamp posts or on the purpose-built towers throughout the town. That
large monument at the army base was also constructed in honor of this incredible bird, right on top of parallel 28.
For years I had heard that it was a Phoenix...the fire bird....Baja rising from the volcanic ashes, so to speak...but that was just rum-induced
nonsense started around a campfire by a certain Coyote Bay storyteller. 
Most of us Nomads...and others..have come to see the gray whales at Ojo de Liebre Lagoon, also known as Scammon's Lagoon.
January though March is the best time for mating and calving. It's also the best time to watch whales doing the same...
You can watch whales from shore or boat. It's truly a magical experience that keeps all of us Baja hands coming back and back.
Here are some photos from our Guerrero Negro visit ..a couple days ago.
MAIN STREET INTO GUERRERO NEGRO
GOOD TACOS!
ANOTHER GOOD CAFE..
THE NARROWEST STORE IN BAJA..GOTTA BE.
THE SEA SALT COMPANY HQ
A NEWER PALM-LINED RESIDENTIAL LANE
[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]
[Edited on 5-31-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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THE MOTELS OF PVC...GUERRERO NEGRO
Over many years, we have stayed at pretty much all the motels in Guerrero Negro.
Some have been real nightmares. I'm talking c-ckroaches that were bigger than the rats swimming out of the toilet.
Times have changed and we are no longer allowed to carry firearms into the rooms. The good news is, there are some nice new modern units today.
Here is a line up of GN motel/hotels that we have bunkered in..in no particular order:
El Morro..La Posada de Don Vincente..Mini Ascuncion...Don Gus..Malarrimos...Los Caracoles ..San Jose..
....and you seldom have to bookslam a wolfspider crawling up the headboard at any of these.
EL MORRO
DON VINCENTE
MINI ASUNCION
DON GUS
MALARRIMOS
LOS CARACOLES
SAN JOSE
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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Guerrero Negro favorite motel..
Our usual stay over the last 30-some years has been at Mallarimos. Here's why for us. We like the option of roomy loft suites. It has: good quality
mattresses, large secure parking area, sat tv, quality menu in restaurant, bar, gift shop, and hot coffee in the a.m. Dogs allowed with deposit.
Also, the place has some history to it. A popular spot, we have often met some Baja neighbors overnighting here. Good ambiance with an old-Baja
feel. A comfy place to have dinner, some good vino, and fine conversation. Try the abulone if in season...simply great. The sopa de mariscos is
pretty darn good, too.
About 400 - 500 pesos these days. Cards accepted.
[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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Giving the new kid a chance...
The last 3 trips since November, through, I have stayed at Los Caracoles. A nice place..and fairly new, free Internet (although it is in the
lobby,only), sat tv, spartan and small standard rooms, a larger suite is best.
Secure area, although parking is a real pain here if you have a large vehicle and boat trailer, etc.
Can be a little noisy due to early risers. 
About 400 pesos for standard room. Larger suites were 650 pesos this trip.
Here are some photos from this trip:
[Edited on 5-21-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Capt. George
Super Nomad
Posts: 2129
Registered: 8-21-2003
Member Is Offline
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WOW!
Thanks (again) Pompano cap'n g
\"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men\" Plato
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 65069
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
Member Is Offline
Mood: Have Baja Fever
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Pompano
Some neat facts about..Gerro Negor...Gwayrow Negra...Grreraro Negative..??
C’mon DK, help a guy out here!
Did you know the official name of the town is Port Venustiano Carranza?...or PVC as some local plumbers say...well, maybe they don’t, but they SHOULD.
The name Guerrero Negro came from a 1800's whaling ship called Black Warrior, which was wrecked on a treacherous sandbar while attempting Vizcaino Bay
to hunt grays.
Average annual temp in 'PVC' is a mild 72...pretty much the same temperature as San Diego.
The town exists today because of the sea salt industry started here in 1957....which is the biggest supplier of table salt in the world. Over 7
million tons a year, I was told.
Well, that’s a bunch... so I scooped both my empty salt/pepper shakers full. Forgive me, Lord, but my french fries need it.
While you are in the area, you can go kayaking around the salt marshes, and observe all kinds of birdlife: white pelican, the red-tailed hawk, white
and black cranes, the golden eagle, and the sea eagle. The Vizcaino Desert is just to the east....duh....west is the ocean, Einstein. Impressive flora
and fauna, amazing cacti and wide variety of animal species, such as pumas, coyotes, deer, bighorn sheep, antelopes, interlopers, and foxes.
The golden eagle is Guerrero Negro's emblem and you can spot several nests on the lamp posts or on the purpose-built towers throughout the town. That
large monument at the army base was also constructed in honor of this incredible bird, right on top of parallel 28.
For years I had heard that it was a Phoenix...the fire bird....Baja rising from the volcanic ashes, so to speak...but that was just rum-induced
nonsense started around a campfire by a certain Coyote Bay storyteller. |
I am really enjoying your photo road guide!
You have it right about the name GUERRERO NEGRO/ BLACK WARRIOR (after the whaling ship).
My information says that Puerto Venustiano Carranza was the name of the original salt loading operation, 6 miles from town on the elevated causeway
across Guerrero Negro (Black Warrior) Lagoon... now abandoned, as that operation was moved to Sacmmon's Lagoon only a few years after being built. It
is called the 'Old Warf' on the AAA map now.
Before being renamed Guerrero Negro, the (then) new salt mining town was first called 'Salina Vizcaino' (and is shown on a 1958 map as such). The
construction of this new salt mine was started in 1957... and on the 1962 map, the name was shown changed to Guerrero Negro.
It was way off the original Baja main road (which went through El Arco), but when the new highway was built in 1973, it bypassed El Arco and headed
right to the edge of Guerrero Negro, then north to intersect the old main road at Jesus Maria and again at Rosarito. So, before 1973 the only way to
get to Guerrero Negro was by air or sea, unless you had a sturdy desert vehicle and time to negotiate the terrain.
Photo at the old warf, last July:
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Santiago
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3526
Registered: 8-27-2003
Member Is Offline
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Pomp: great report. Is that dog as birdy as she looks?
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Capt. George
Super Nomad
Posts: 2129
Registered: 8-21-2003
Member Is Offline
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chocolate lab, gotta be birdy! wanna good read about labs vs chesapeakes?
James Micheners Chesapeake Chapter "The Watermen" sorry for going off topic..
cap'n g
\"The penalty good men pay for indifference to public affairs is to be ruled by evil men\" Plato
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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SPEED TRAP AHEAD
Guerrero Negro to Vizcaino
SPEED TRAP AHEAD
Driver’s reminder.... to use caution when going ‘slightly’ over the speed limit of 80kph (50mph) in this area.
For the last 2-3 years, a radar-equipped patrol car has been stationed just below the rise up ahead. See the photo.
Anecdotal information:
Tunes! You know how certain music can influence you, right?
Well..on one occasion a few trips back, I was driving south along on this stretch ..enjoying some soothing XM music. That great old song we all
like to sing along with..“Those Lazy, Hazy, Crazy Days of Summer” by the late, great, Nat King Cole. I dreamily cruise along.
That song ended.. and the next was ..Boom!..Wow...“Ride of The Valkyeries!” by Wagner. Cymbals crashing! Crescendos..Remember the music from
‘Apocalypse Now’? My blood pressure rose, my foot goose-stepped down and stomped the gaspedal.... and before you knew it, I went from a relaxing 50mph
to hurtling down the road at Warp Speed...a raving berserker. I rocketed past the blurred image of the radar car sitting in his little hideaway.
As I glanced in the mirror, I could see him turn out and come after me...I knew I was sunk.
I immediately slam-braked into a turnout and shut off the damn Valkyeries. This happened so quick I was actually stopped BEFORE the red lights came
on. As he drove into the turnout I pulled up right alongside his driver’s window, said Hola, senor... and handed him my driver’s license. He looked
a little disconcerted at my quick surrender. Then he smiles .. and said, ‘Much speed, senor. You drive very fast’ ....grin.
My mind is racing for some salvation as I see him mentally adding up my fine...then I blurt out that.. Yes, senor. I was worried about getting to
Mulege quickly...Mi compadre’s Manuel Cuesta’s daughter is getting married today...Followed by about 500 or so people I know in my adopted Baja
village...how long I have lived there...who I have borrowed money to...my long association with supporting the local police... which amigos drink
Tecate v.s. who drinks Pacifico....who I am padrino (godfather) to from all the Monitos over the years....
....and a certain old girlfriend who moved to Guerrero Negro many years ago (although that one could have backfired.)
He listens to my pitiful story... his eyes start to glaze over.. and eventually he shuts me up, hands me back my license... says to have a nice day
and quickly drives away. I got the feeling that if I had kept talking, he may have batoned me.
Sometimes it's not what you know...it’s WHO you know...and so never pass up a chance to drop a name to a cop.
[Edited on 5-21-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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Pompano
Elite Nomad
Posts: 8194
Registered: 11-14-2004
Location: Bay of Conception and Up North
Member Is Offline
Mood: Optimistic
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Silent place.....
Guerrero Negro to Vizcaino stretch
We come to the Vizcaino Biosphere Reserve.
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Unfortunately, my passengers are aghast at the landscape now unfolding before us.
The sight overlays all political agendas and highlights a dire diagnosis of the earth’s future health..
Right outside of Guerrero Negro begins one of the most littered sections of the Baja Road..a disgrace and blot on Biosphere Reserve. The litter does
not all come from road traffic...indeed, the vast majority comes by way of prevailing winds carrying plastic bags eastward across the flat desert
from Guerrero Negro’s open-pit landfill. They get snagged on cactus and mesquite as far as the eye can see.
It would be a godsend if the use of these bags and other plastic throw-aways could be reduced, or at least re-used more....but current economical and
social conditions prevail in Baja ..and elsewhere. It’s often hard for the average breadwinner...and almost impossible for others less fortunate and
uneducated to the problem. One can only hope that profit-in-recycling will come to Baja soon. There is a beginning, though. Already the tossed
aluminum can’s life-span on the highway is numbered in days.
Damn, I hate plastic shopping bags. For many years, we have used our own cloth carrying bags when shopping...sturdy ones...’chic’ even... bought at
Trader Joe’s in Pacific Beach long ago.
Hilary speaks out, "San Francisco recently took the lead to outlaw plastic bags at their markets." John Mc. mutters..."You can now marry your
gerbil up there, too."
Somewhat glum from seeing the beautiful Baja desert so ill-treated, we drive silently east.. towards the vast Vizcaino Game and Habitat Reserve.
Hey, maybe seeing one of those pronged interlopers would perk up everyone up
[Edited on 5-25-2008 by Pompano]
I do what the voices in my tackle box tell me.
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