| Pages:
1
2 |
Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
    
Posts: 8813
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
Member Is Offline
Mood: Full Time Residents
|
|
its a $400 pelican plastic sit on top kayak
i could take a piece of plastic from another sit-in kayak we have and try that
what if i melt the plastic and drip it in he area???
susan is looking for marine tex as we speak
|
|
|
Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
    
Posts: 8813
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
Member Is Offline
Mood: Full Time Residents
|
|
that sounds goood...
|
|
|
BajaDanD
Senior Nomad
 
Posts: 745
Registered: 8-30-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
dripping melted plastic onto the crack will not work unless its flaming while dripping and stays lit for a few seconds after it lands. The plastic
where its cracked has to be melted also.
Try dripping burning plastic on the crack and also using a hot knife or soldering iron Remember both serfices have to be melted to adhere.
YakmanDan
|
|
|
fixtrauma
Nomad

Posts: 389
Registered: 11-17-2008
Location: El Centenario & Lebanon,Oregon
Member Is Offline
Mood: Monomaniac
|
|
I am just curious how you got the hole?
|
|
|
Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
    
Posts: 8813
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
Member Is Offline
Mood: Full Time Residents
|
|
dragging it along the sand...
norman wear and tear as far as i'm concerned
|
|
|
vandy
Senior Nomad
 
Posts: 538
Registered: 10-10-2003
Member Is Offline
|
|
Pelican kayaks are made of High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) which they also call Ram-X. Coleman makes some of their canoes out of the same stuff.
Plastic welding is the way to go, apparently, especially since the hole is where it will be abused again.
Good luck!
|
|
|
motoged
Elite Nomad
    
Posts: 6481
Registered: 7-31-2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Member Is Offline
Mood: Gettin' Better
|
|
| Quote: | Originally posted by shari
I vote for hot knifing!!!!!! |
Shari, Shari, Shari....
Your slip is showing again 
My experience with hot knifing (years ago, mind you) is that it is very risky. Too hot and the repair just explodes and goes up in a big cloud of
smoke....no seemless joining of the two parts... ; too cool a knife and the product doesn't reach the point where it will start to "work" and adhere
to or modify anything....
Don't believe everything you think....
|
|
|
Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
    
Posts: 8813
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
Member Is Offline
Mood: Full Time Residents
|
|
wow
i'll have to document this repair with pictures
i'm waiting for susan to return to start
|
|
|
shari
Select Nomad
     
Posts: 13052
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
Member Is Offline
Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
|
|
Bob...dont inhale!!!
|
|
|
ElFaro
Nomad

Posts: 231
Registered: 9-16-2007
Member Is Offline
|
|
If the kayak is of the roto-molded plastic variety (our Ocean Kayaks) then it will be difficult to repair worn-through spots. We bought a rental
kayak years ago that was dragged across the sand during its rental life. The kayak mfr. told us they cannot be patched. Your method of "hot welding"
may work as long as another hole or thin spot does not develop. Consider some transport wheels from house to waters edge to avoid dragging through
sand.
|
|
|
oladulce
Super Nomad
  
Posts: 1625
Registered: 5-30-2005
Location: bcs
Member Is Offline
|
|
I sacrificed a clothes iron to repair our sit-on-top Ocean Kayaks after they flew off the roof of our camper and in to a canyon near Santa
Rosalillita. This was the repair method recommended by O.K. 20 yrs ago anyway.
No holes, but it worked well to smooth out the chunks that were removed and got rid of the scratches. Sorry Bob, I can't tell by your picture if this
would work for your problem.
We still have those boats and they've taken a lot of abuse.
|
|
|
larryC
Super Nomad
  
Posts: 1499
Registered: 8-11-2008
Location: BoLA
Member Is Offline
|
|
Not sure if this would work for you but I recently had to repair a plastic boat and the only thig I had was some poly rope. I lit the rope on fire and
let the drippings fill the hole. It sealed out water but probably would not work well if the repair was in a high stress area. Good luck with yours.
Larry
|
|
|
boe4fun
Super Nomad
  
Posts: 1040
Registered: 1-22-2006
Location: Margaritaville
Member Is Offline
Mood: Circling the drain........
|
|
Hi Bob, Before I retired I used to have a business where I would have to weld different types of plastics. I think that most hulls are thermoformed
from a combination of polyethylene and polypropylene, or a copolymer. These plastics are all of the polyolefine family, meaning that they are a wax
based plastic using either ethane or propane gas in the manufacturing process (hence polyETHylene or polyPROPylene). The wax base prevents gluing, but
you can weld it. If you can place a patch of similar copolymer(most are 3 to 7 percent PE to 93 to 97 percent PP) plastic on the inside and hold it
into place while welding if from the outside, it should make a patch that can be drug over the sand and not re-split. A cheap (about $29.00 when on
sale) plastic welder can be found at Harbor Freight, and you can cut your own welding rod from stock about 1/8" thickness. You'll need a compressor
for the air supply while welding, and let the "torch" cool down before turning off the air (READ THE MANUAL!!!). Any ?'s U2u me. Buena Suerte,
Paul
Two dirt roads diverged in Baja and I, I took the one less graveled by......
Soy ignorante, apático y ambivalente. No lo sé y no me importa, ni modo.
|
|
|
Bwana_John
Nomad

Posts: 294
Registered: 10-17-2007
Member Is Offline
|
|
Use a Petex stick intended to fix polyethelene snow ski bases.
A hot flat bladed screwdriver helps to "Weld" it. A petex gun that any ski-shop has makes it a easy fix.
Real bad holes require a hot air welder, also available at better ski repair shops.
Use a piece of another old kayak if you cant find Petex.
Old melted army men and melted styrofoam cups are supposed to work also
|
|
|
Udo
Elite Nomad
    
Posts: 6364
Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
Member Is Offline
Mood: TEQUILA!
|
|
I think BJ is on the right track, however, one would have to heat the yak surface with a heat gun first.
The BIG problem is that the yak and the repair product expand and contract at different ratios than the plastic on the yak. That is why Hobie Cat will just give you a new hull under warranty no matter how long you have owned the yak.
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
|
|
|
Bob and Susan
Elite Nomad
    
Posts: 8813
Registered: 8-20-2003
Location: Mulege BCS on the BAY
Member Is Offline
Mood: Full Time Residents
|
|
now i know why you "buy hobie"
not cheap pelican
|
|
|
Bwana_John
Nomad

Posts: 294
Registered: 10-17-2007
Member Is Offline
|
|
| Quote: |
BJ is on the right track, however, one would have to heat the yak surface with a heat gun first.
|
No, you dont. You can, but you will blow a hole right thru the kayak with a heat gun if you are not careful.
Use the red hot flat bladed screwdriver to pre-heat the edges of the repair before melting the petex candle on to the kayak.
Use the red hot blade to "weld" the repair together.
I have fixed quite a few kayaks using just a petex stick, backpacking stove, and hot blade, including repairs "on the beach" in Baja. (I used to work
in a little kayak shop on the central coast of CA.)
The "Best" fix is by using a hot air plastic welder.
|
|
|
| Pages:
1
2 |