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Author: Subject: hole in kayak...
Bob and Susan
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[*] posted on 7-13-2009 at 05:39 PM


its a $400 pelican plastic sit on top kayak

i could take a piece of plastic from another sit-in kayak we have and try that

what if i melt the plastic and drip it in he area???

susan is looking for marine tex as we speak




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Bob and Susan
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[*] posted on 7-13-2009 at 07:52 PM


that sounds goood...



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[*] posted on 7-13-2009 at 09:45 PM


dripping melted plastic onto the crack will not work unless its flaming while dripping and stays lit for a few seconds after it lands. The plastic where its cracked has to be melted also.
Try dripping burning plastic on the crack and also using a hot knife or soldering iron Remember both serfices have to be melted to adhere.
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[*] posted on 7-13-2009 at 09:48 PM


I am just curious how you got the hole?



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Bob and Susan
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[*] posted on 7-14-2009 at 05:22 AM


dragging it along the sand...

norman wear and tear as far as i'm concerned:saint::saint:




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[*] posted on 7-14-2009 at 12:26 PM


Pelican kayaks are made of High-Density Polyethylene (HDPE) which they also call Ram-X. Coleman makes some of their canoes out of the same stuff.

Plastic welding is the way to go, apparently, especially since the hole is where it will be abused again.

Good luck!
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[*] posted on 7-14-2009 at 10:36 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by shari
I vote for hot knifing!!!!!!:coolup:


Shari, Shari, Shari....

Your slip is showing again ;D

My experience with hot knifing (years ago, mind you) is that it is very risky. Too hot and the repair just explodes and goes up in a big cloud of smoke....no seemless joining of the two parts... ; too cool a knife and the product doesn't reach the point where it will start to "work" and adhere to or modify anything....



:saint:




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Bob and Susan
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[*] posted on 7-15-2009 at 06:07 AM


wow

i'll have to document this repair with pictures

i'm waiting for susan to return to start




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[*] posted on 7-15-2009 at 07:51 AM


Bob...dont inhale!!!



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[*] posted on 7-15-2009 at 08:15 AM


If the kayak is of the roto-molded plastic variety (our Ocean Kayaks) then it will be difficult to repair worn-through spots. We bought a rental kayak years ago that was dragged across the sand during its rental life. The kayak mfr. told us they cannot be patched. Your method of "hot welding" may work as long as another hole or thin spot does not develop. Consider some transport wheels from house to waters edge to avoid dragging through sand.
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[*] posted on 7-15-2009 at 09:12 AM


I sacrificed a clothes iron to repair our sit-on-top Ocean Kayaks after they flew off the roof of our camper and in to a canyon near Santa Rosalillita. This was the repair method recommended by O.K. 20 yrs ago anyway.

No holes, but it worked well to smooth out the chunks that were removed and got rid of the scratches. Sorry Bob, I can't tell by your picture if this would work for your problem.

We still have those boats and they've taken a lot of abuse.
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[*] posted on 7-16-2009 at 11:03 AM


Not sure if this would work for you but I recently had to repair a plastic boat and the only thig I had was some poly rope. I lit the rope on fire and let the drippings fill the hole. It sealed out water but probably would not work well if the repair was in a high stress area. Good luck with yours.
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[*] posted on 7-16-2009 at 12:41 PM


Hi Bob, Before I retired I used to have a business where I would have to weld different types of plastics. I think that most hulls are thermoformed from a combination of polyethylene and polypropylene, or a copolymer. These plastics are all of the polyolefine family, meaning that they are a wax based plastic using either ethane or propane gas in the manufacturing process (hence polyETHylene or polyPROPylene). The wax base prevents gluing, but you can weld it. If you can place a patch of similar copolymer(most are 3 to 7 percent PE to 93 to 97 percent PP) plastic on the inside and hold it into place while welding if from the outside, it should make a patch that can be drug over the sand and not re-split. A cheap (about $29.00 when on sale) plastic welder can be found at Harbor Freight, and you can cut your own welding rod from stock about 1/8" thickness. You'll need a compressor for the air supply while welding, and let the "torch" cool down before turning off the air (READ THE MANUAL!!!). Any ?'s U2u me. Buena Suerte, Paul



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[*] posted on 7-17-2009 at 02:06 PM


Use a Petex stick intended to fix polyethelene snow ski bases.

A hot flat bladed screwdriver helps to "Weld" it. A petex gun that any ski-shop has makes it a easy fix.

Real bad holes require a hot air welder, also available at better ski repair shops.

Use a piece of another old kayak if you cant find Petex.

Old melted army men and melted styrofoam cups are supposed to work also
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[*] posted on 7-17-2009 at 02:23 PM


I think BJ is on the right track, however, one would have to heat the yak surface with a heat gun first.
The BIG problem is that the yak and the repair product expand and contract at different ratios:( than the plastic on the yak. That is why Hobie Cat will just give you a new hull:bounce: under warranty no matter how long you have owned the yak.




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[*] posted on 7-17-2009 at 03:02 PM


now i know why you "buy hobie":light:

not cheap pelican:barf:




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[*] posted on 7-18-2009 at 08:00 AM


Quote:

BJ is on the right track, however, one would have to heat the yak surface with a heat gun first.

No, you dont. You can, but you will blow a hole right thru the kayak with a heat gun if you are not careful.

Use the red hot flat bladed screwdriver to pre-heat the edges of the repair before melting the petex candle on to the kayak.

Use the red hot blade to "weld" the repair together.

I have fixed quite a few kayaks using just a petex stick, backpacking stove, and hot blade, including repairs "on the beach" in Baja. (I used to work in a little kayak shop on the central coast of CA.)

The "Best" fix is by using a hot air plastic welder.
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