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BajaBruno
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The metal roof industry says that metal roofs are no more likely to be hit by lightning than any other roof, if you can believe them.
I'm not aware of any codes that require bonding a metal roof to the grounding system, except in high risk commercial buildings. It can't hurt,
though, if you are concerned about it.
Christopher Bruno, Elk Grove, CA.
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astrobaja
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Thanks Guys, but I guess I'll just get my brother in law to pick up a proper copper 8' one at Home Depot in SD for when he comes down
\"There is a theory which states that if ever anyone discovers exactly what the Universe is for and why it is here, it will instantly disappear
and be replaced by something even more bizarre and inexplicable.There is another theory which states that this has already happened\"
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Oggie
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Don't forget the Ground rod wire clamp.
A man never stands as tall as when he kneels to help a child.
Knights of Pythagoras
Funny how falling feels like flying
for a little while - Bad Blake
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Barry A.
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| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaBruno
Dennis, there is a way to test a ground installation, but I doubt anyone around you has the equipment. Not a problem. The code says that if you have
an inadequate ground, simply drive another rod 6' away and you don't even have to test it (actually, testing isn't required in either case).
Your ground is probably fine, although you'd never get away with having line voltage only 2' feet underground in the US! |
Ok, now I am getting spooked. In the USA, I have an outlier storage shed that was built with no electrical within. I ran special underground 3-wire
NOMEX a foot under ground to it (no conduit) from my house 110 V electrical system, and it seems to work fine and it has been there for over 10 years.
Is there a potential problem here? (I realize that somebody might push a shovel into it, and that WOULD be a problem tho most of the length is under
a raised deck.) I was told to NOT use conduit as water accumulates in it and could cause the system to fail (???)
Barry
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BajaBruno
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Barry A., there is a different between "best practices" and the National Electrical Code, as I found out when I was trying to get an electrican
working for me to do what I considered a proper job. He reminded me that by contract he was only required to do his work "to code," and Code is only
concerned with minimum safety standards, not necessarily comfort and convenience in the real world.
Dennis' application was a service entrance (between the meter and the service panel), which requires 4' depth, as I recall. You buried a fused
circuit, which has lower requirements. Assuming UF rated cable, I think the Code requires a minumum of 2' depth. I would always put it in PVC or
thickwall metal conduit, not because UF isn't good cable, but because it is too easy to drive a badminton pole or something into the cable and break
it. Fixing that is a real pain.
If water gets in the conduit it's really no big deal--there is water all around the unprotected cable buried in the ground, right? But, the conduit
gives it lots of protection from damage. Again, best practices vs Code.
Christopher Bruno, Elk Grove, CA.
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Barry A.
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Many thanks, Bruno------------I am thinking that you are dead on here, and I will accomplish the upgrades soon------safety vs simple is not a good
tradeoff, I am thinking.
I am clueless on this electrical stuff, and appreciate the advice------the vulnerability of the naked cable HAS concerned me, especially the portion
out from under the deck..
Again, thanks.
Barry
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arrowhead
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I know I'm a little late to the party, but I noticed your house is out in the country. If you have a well with steel pipe lining (most do) you can
ground to the well pipe, if it is not too far from the house. You don't want to have a long ground wire run, preferrably just a few feet to keep the
resistance low.
No soy por ni contra apatía.
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astrobaja
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Good idea Arrowhead but alas don't have a well!
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Diver
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Barry A.
Ok, now I am getting spooked. In the USA, I have an outlier storage shed that was built with no electrical within. I ran special underground 3-wire
NOMEX a foot under ground to it (no conduit) from my house 110 V electrical system, and it seems to work fine and it has been there for over 10 years.
Is there a potential problem here? (I realize that somebody might push a shovel into it, and that WOULD be a problem tho most of the length is under
a raised deck.) I was told to NOT use conduit as water accumulates in it and could cause the system to fail (???)
Barry |
You said 3-wire. hot, neutral and GROUND, right.
This is only an outlet, not a sub-panel right ?
Then you don't need another ground.
(unless you used 2 hots and 1 neutral and no ground ??? Then you would need to bury another wire for ground back to the panel)
If you used underground-rated cable, you don't need conduit except to protect the wire from the wife planting a new tree.
Another tidbit for you self-proclaimed electricians (like me);
If you have a panel that serves a sub-panel, both panels must be grounded separately. The bus-bar connector needs to be removed on the sub-panel and
the wires connected; one side grounds - other side neutrals (ground rod to the ground bar). If you live in an area with salty soils, you may get a
ground loop shock when it rains if you don't !!
.
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Diver
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| Quote: | Originally posted by astrobaja
Good idea Arrowhead but alas don't have a well! |
Oh well.
(I had to do it before someone else did !! )
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Barry A.
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Diver said, "You said 3-wire. hot, neutral and GROUND, right.
This is only an outlet, not a sub-panel right ?
Then you don't need another ground.
That is all correct, Diver. Thank you.
Barry
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Pacifico
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| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaBruno
The metal roof industry says that metal roofs are no more likely to be hit by lightning than any other roof, if you can believe them.
I'm not aware of any codes that require bonding a metal roof to the grounding system, except in high risk commercial buildings. It can't hurt,
though, if you are concerned about it. |
Thanks for the reply BajaBruno! This forum needs more people like you!!!
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