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Author: Subject: Grounding rods in Ensenada?
BajaBruno
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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 10:17 AM


The metal roof industry says that metal roofs are no more likely to be hit by lightning than any other roof, if you can believe them.

I'm not aware of any codes that require bonding a metal roof to the grounding system, except in high risk commercial buildings. It can't hurt, though, if you are concerned about it.




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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 10:30 AM


Thanks Guys, but I guess I'll just get my brother in law to pick up a proper copper 8' one at Home Depot in SD for when he comes down



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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 10:34 AM


Don't forget the Ground rod wire clamp.



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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 11:35 AM


Quote:
Originally posted by BajaBruno
Dennis, there is a way to test a ground installation, but I doubt anyone around you has the equipment. Not a problem. The code says that if you have an inadequate ground, simply drive another rod 6' away and you don't even have to test it (actually, testing isn't required in either case).

Your ground is probably fine, although you'd never get away with having line voltage only 2' feet underground in the US!


Ok, now I am getting spooked. In the USA, I have an outlier storage shed that was built with no electrical within. I ran special underground 3-wire NOMEX a foot under ground to it (no conduit) from my house 110 V electrical system, and it seems to work fine and it has been there for over 10 years. Is there a potential problem here? (I realize that somebody might push a shovel into it, and that WOULD be a problem tho most of the length is under a raised deck.) I was told to NOT use conduit as water accumulates in it and could cause the system to fail (???)

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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 12:07 PM


Barry A., there is a different between "best practices" and the National Electrical Code, as I found out when I was trying to get an electrican working for me to do what I considered a proper job. He reminded me that by contract he was only required to do his work "to code," and Code is only concerned with minimum safety standards, not necessarily comfort and convenience in the real world.

Dennis' application was a service entrance (between the meter and the service panel), which requires 4' depth, as I recall. You buried a fused circuit, which has lower requirements. Assuming UF rated cable, I think the Code requires a minumum of 2' depth. I would always put it in PVC or thickwall metal conduit, not because UF isn't good cable, but because it is too easy to drive a badminton pole or something into the cable and break it. Fixing that is a real pain.

If water gets in the conduit it's really no big deal--there is water all around the unprotected cable buried in the ground, right? But, the conduit gives it lots of protection from damage. Again, best practices vs Code.




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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 01:01 PM


Many thanks, Bruno------------I am thinking that you are dead on here, and I will accomplish the upgrades soon------safety vs simple is not a good tradeoff, I am thinking.

I am clueless on this electrical stuff, and appreciate the advice------the vulnerability of the naked cable HAS concerned me, especially the portion out from under the deck..

Again, thanks.

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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 01:03 PM


I know I'm a little late to the party, but I noticed your house is out in the country. If you have a well with steel pipe lining (most do) you can ground to the well pipe, if it is not too far from the house. You don't want to have a long ground wire run, preferrably just a few feet to keep the resistance low.



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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 05:22 PM


Good idea Arrowhead but alas don't have a well!



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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 07:38 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by Barry A.
Ok, now I am getting spooked. In the USA, I have an outlier storage shed that was built with no electrical within. I ran special underground 3-wire NOMEX a foot under ground to it (no conduit) from my house 110 V electrical system, and it seems to work fine and it has been there for over 10 years. Is there a potential problem here? (I realize that somebody might push a shovel into it, and that WOULD be a problem tho most of the length is under a raised deck.) I was told to NOT use conduit as water accumulates in it and could cause the system to fail (???)
Barry


You said 3-wire. hot, neutral and GROUND, right.
This is only an outlet, not a sub-panel right ?
Then you don't need another ground.
(unless you used 2 hots and 1 neutral and no ground ??? Then you would need to bury another wire for ground back to the panel)
If you used underground-rated cable, you don't need conduit except to protect the wire from the wife planting a new tree.

Another tidbit for you self-proclaimed electricians (like me);
If you have a panel that serves a sub-panel, both panels must be grounded separately. The bus-bar connector needs to be removed on the sub-panel and the wires connected; one side grounds - other side neutrals (ground rod to the ground bar). If you live in an area with salty soils, you may get a ground loop shock when it rains if you don't !!
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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 07:39 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by astrobaja
Good idea Arrowhead but alas don't have a well!



Oh well.



(I had to do it before someone else did !! :biggrin: )
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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 07:45 PM


Diver said, "You said 3-wire. hot, neutral and GROUND, right.
This is only an outlet, not a sub-panel right ?
Then you don't need another ground.


That is all correct, Diver. Thank you.

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[*] posted on 7-29-2009 at 08:00 PM


Quote:
Originally posted by BajaBruno
The metal roof industry says that metal roofs are no more likely to be hit by lightning than any other roof, if you can believe them.

I'm not aware of any codes that require bonding a metal roof to the grounding system, except in high risk commercial buildings. It can't hurt, though, if you are concerned about it.


Thanks for the reply BajaBruno! This forum needs more people like you!!!
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