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landyacht318
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This here is a digital photo of a 1 hour photo I had developed in west OZ. It kind of sums up what sharing good waves with a few friends can be like.
If I were to paddle out at this locale and not show respect to these local crayfishermen, I would have been run out of town a bloody mess.
I gave the negative to the guy riding the wave, and was allowed many waves from then on, but was warned to not be caught taking any photos.
I don't know why my photo is not showing up, I've done so successfully before.
Here is a clickyhttp://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/wrcsixeight/DSC03501copy.jpg?t=127114200
[img]http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss15/wrcsixeight/DSC03501copy.jpg?t=127114200[/img]
[Edited on 4-14-2010 by landyacht318]
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landyacht318
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There certainly is a sentimental attachment to surfboards.
Some guys want to keep them to try and have them replicated as close as possible.
Some would want to keep them to give to their kids.
Some of the greedy ones don't want to leave any behind because that could mean they have to share the waves with those who live there.
Some of the boards with removable fins are useless without the fins, which still have considerable value.
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woody with a view
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Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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| Quote: | Originally posted by DianaT
OK, since we are learning about all things surf, edumacate me about this.
We have a couple of people who have and continue to collect some old surfboards for us to donate to the local team----some in good shape and others
need repair, but our friend is good at repairing and we have taken repair items to him. Thank goodness the local surf board maker was willing to talk
on the phone with him or we would have bought all the wrong stuff.
However, for the most part, we have had a difficult time getting anyone to part with old surfboards----even ones that are doing nothing but collecting
mud in the backyard.
A local lifeguard here in Imperial Beach explained it to me that surfers are very, very sentimental and they don't part with old boards because each
board has a special memory attached to it.
Your take??? |
boards are like old girlfriends. some are better than others, but most all carry a piece of your heart with them forever. a really good board, well,
you can imagine......
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norte
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I notice the author never came back. could it be he knew the answer all along an and because he s a friend of the infamous Davidk he was trying to
instigate another free for all?
Thanks for the honest discussion.
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TMW
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| Quote: | Originally posted by BajaGeoff
Hello TW,
It generally depends on the season and where the swells are coming from. In the summer months, most of the swells come from the southern hemisphere,
so beaches in Baja that face south/southwest can get good. In the winter, they come out of the northern hemisphere, so beaches facing north/northwest
can get good.
Right now we are in the transition period between winter and summer, so we are getting combo swells from both hemispheres, making a lot of spots good
all at once! |
Thanks Geoff.
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TMW
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| Quote: | Originally posted by tiotomasbcs
Dummy, I guess you don't sail or watch the moon & tides either. Get a Baja travel book or just go to the beach! No wonder surfers hate this
site! Take me by the hand and show me... |
No I don't sail anymore. I usually watch the moon phases for surf fishing but it usually doesn't make any difference on how the fishing goes for me.
I've got lots of Baja travel books but none on surfing. Does that answer your questions jerk?
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shari
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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One cool thing about Asuncion is that we have beaches that face many different directions so the kids can get on waves no matter where the swell comes
from. This week we've had a SW swell which means the surfer kiddies have been at pig beach...in front of Dianne T's home...which is great for them as
it's right in town. The swell has been awesome for the last few months...nearly 8-10' the whole time...much to the dismay of the abalone divers who
have to work close to the rocks!! Surf's up dudes!!
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TMW
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| Quote: | Originally posted by landyacht318
Many factors contribute to whether a particular surf spot will have many people out, or none. In addition to what BajaGeoff said about swell
directions, the tide can have huge effects on some locations. A new moon or full moon is about when the tidal swing is the largest(usually a day
after).
Some locations will love a real low tide, some work better on a high tide, some can work through any tide. Some spots are better on an outgoing tide,
most are better on an upcoming.
Shifting sands can also make or break a certain location.
After the presence or lack of ground/wind swell, what might be the biggest factor in whether you see surfers out or not, is the wind. Wind blowing
from land to sea, is good. It make the waves clean and break in a barrelling/ tubular fashion, if the bottom contours allow.
No wind is also good.
Strong NW winds, or any onshore direction, will make many surfbreaks choppy, with whitecaps depending on the strength. It makes riding waves much
less pleasurable. Early in the morning is usually when the wind is lightest, and can, but not always provide the best conditions for surfing.
Many non surfers believe that strong local winds make for good surfing. It is strong winds a great distance (500 to 10,000 miles)away from land which
create long period ground swells and provide the groomed, well traveled energy which makes the best waves for surfing.
What makes surfing the most pleasurable is trading/ sharing waves with your friends. What makes surfing the least pleasurable are crowds of greedy
narcissists. Surfing in crowded conditions would nearly be akin to getting ready to take a swing at a golf ball, and some yahoo comes running up and
smacks it on your back swing. Or when fishing having another boat dropping anchor right next to you. Or having a lover defiled in front of you.
Imagine anything , relatively solitary, that you enjoy to do, and have it ruined by the presence of others. Perhaps they are a good and respectful
people, but would it not be better if they were good and respectful somewhere else? If the others have no respect or any otherwise desirable
character attributes, then it is difficult to not be overwhelmingly angry at their presence. We surfers realize we are our own worst enemies.
Crowds in Surfing are incredibly frustrating, and why emotions can get so high when one cannot escape them, especially when going to great lengths to
do so, then finding that many others have the same Idea/location in mind, and bring their 'at home' attitude with them.
When a surfer has had all the conditions come together- swell, wind, tide, time, remote location, and friends to share it with, it is simply magical
experience, and that location forever becomes etched in that person's conscious.
When one hopes to repeat this experience, and finds all the conditions come together, except there are 150 others there, and then seeing it advertised
online, well it is enough to cause some surfers to verbally attack DavidK, rationally or not.
[Edited on 4-13-2010 by landyacht318] |
Thanks. Since 1987 I've been down the Pacific coast from Puerto Catarina to Punta Rosarito many many times usually surf fishing and sometimes just
exploring but I've never seen anyone surfing. Now I was not looking for them so I may have went by at a distance and just not seen them. I think on my
next trip down I'll pay a little more attention to the conditions on what you and Geoff have said. And don't worry If I do see anyone surfing I'll not
say where, just like I don't tell where my favorite fishing spots are either. Just general info.
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DianaT
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| Quote: | Originally posted by shari
One cool thing about Asuncion is that we have beaches that face many different directions so the kids can get on waves no matter where the swell comes
from. This week we've had a SW swell which means the surfer kiddies have been at pig beach...in front of Dianne T's home...which is great for them as
it's right in town. The swell has been awesome for the last few months...nearly 8-10' the whole time...much to the dismay of the abalone divers who
have to work close to the rocks!! Surf's up dudes!! |
Only problem with the surf being up is the surfer kids in BA are like surfer kids in California---they weigh their priorities --- surf vs education
and you surfers know which one often wins. 
The name Pig Beach is showing up more often and it sounds strange, like there are pigs still running around. From what we have been told by some
oldtimers is that there was a big pig farm in that area at one time, so the beach became known as pig beach. As access to the beach is down the cliff
or the steps someone built, I doubt the pigs ever made it surfing. But we love the name. But you surfers do not need to fear competition from any
animals, at least the four legged ones. Well, not quite true. My dogs love to run on that beach and they love the water and surfing.
I hope they can get through Abolone season, but I also hope the big swells have brought more sand back to the beach---the sand that the big storms
took away.
[Edited on 4-13-2010 by DianaT]
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tiotomasbcs
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Sorry, out of line! Lo siento. Bad day at the beach and negative encounter with gremmies are no excuse for my words. Ocean waves are caused by
storms usually far away. The beach and waves are more crowded than ever and this causes veteran waveriders great pain. Surfing is best enjoyed in
small groups of friends! Disculpe.
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shari
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Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Ok tio....sorry you had a bad day....you can come out of the corner now
gracias for the apology.
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The Sculpin
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Mood: Riding into the Sunset, looking for a sunrise.
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Well I gotta say that after being on this and other incarnations of this board for decades, this is the best discussion about surfing and it's
"culture" I've seen in a long time - anywhere. Tio's first email does a very good job of showing how a bad day surfing can ruin the day on land for
everyone. Surfing is alot like cocaine. The first time you ride a wave is exhilarating, and you spend the rest of your life looking for that same
rush. Regardless of how good you get, and how many more waves you ride, you never get the feeling of the first wave again. Sure, there's the first
barrel, the first 20 footer, the first air, yada-yada - but by then you know what you're doing - it's just not the same. Just like cocaine, that
pursuit could ruin your life! House by the beach - part time night job so you can surf early mornings, spotty employment history because of too many
trips to Bali, your first punch out, your first act of vandalism, those overwhelming feelings of paranoia when you spot a car with boards heading to
your spot, the territorial beast within awakens!!!. Hopefully you surfed before you met your spouse. If not, they're history! If you end up making any
kids, you seriously consider putting them in boarding school in Kansas to spare them the agony. You give in, tow 'em out using your leash, launch them
into a wave, and kiss them goodbye forever - you know by the time their 15 they're going to be surfing heavier waves and taking off deeper than you.
Sigh....For those lucky enough to have a job and a 401(k), guess what happens when you retire? Ratchet up the search!! Start all over again with a
newfound purpose!!!I tell ya, maybe it's better to have a cocaine habit.....at least they have rehab places for that!
Oh, and if your board has no fins - no problem.......surf the rail!
Whoa there, Cowboy - pull back on those reins!
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Cyanide41
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| Quote: | Originally posted by DianaT
Landyacht318, I appreciate your explanation as it is very well stated about lots of the elements of surfing and what it means to many.
As I said, I am not a surfer, but from what I have been told by ones who do surf is that it is only polite for one person to take a wave.
These guys are members of our local surf club and one of them is a very good friend of ours. When I gave the cd of photos, I asked him about sharing
that wave ---at first there were three of them on the same wave. He said that for them, it was a part of the fun and the challenge. They like
sharing the same wave.
I guess it is a difference in cultural norms---I don't know.
[Edited on 4-13-2010 by DianaT] |
Sharing waves with a buddy is one thing. Snaking waves from someone you don't know is another story.
[Edited on 4-13-2010 by Cyanide41]
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TacoFeliz
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| Quote: | Originally posted by The Sculpin
Well I gotta say that after being on this and other incarnations of this board for decades, this is the best discussion about surfing and it's
"culture" I've seen in a long time - anywhere. Tio's first email does a very good job of showing how a bad day surfing can ruin the day on land for
everyone. Surfing is alot like cocaine. The first time you ride a wave is exhilarating, and you spend the rest of your life looking for that same
rush. Regardless of how good you get, and how many more waves you ride, you never get the feeling of the first wave again. Sure, there's the first
barrel, the first 20 footer, the first air, yada-yada - but by then you know what you're doing - it's just not the same. Just like cocaine, that
pursuit could ruin your life! House by the beach - part time night job so you can surf early mornings, spotty employment history because of too many
trips to Bali, your first punch out, your first act of vandalism, those overwhelming feelings of paranoia when you spot a car with boards heading to
your spot, the territorial beast within awakens!!!. Hopefully you surfed before you met your spouse. If not, they're history! If you end up making any
kids, you seriously consider putting them in boarding school in Kansas to spare them the agony. You give in, tow 'em out using your leash, launch them
into a wave, and kiss them goodbye forever - you know by the time their 15 they're going to be surfing heavier waves and taking off deeper than you.
Sigh....For those lucky enough to have a job and a 401(k), guess what happens when you retire? Ratchet up the search!! Start all over again with a
newfound purpose!!!I tell ya, maybe it's better to have a cocaine habit.....at least they have rehab places for that!
Oh, and if your board has no fins - no problem.......surf the rail! |
What he said!!!
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Mulegena
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Well done, TioTomas.
In my life-view we are all snarkey sometimes, but a sincere and gracious apology from the deliveror to the deliverees clears the slate clean like
clear sparkin' water.
Group Hug.
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tripledigitken
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Time for etiquette lessons later son. 
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dtbushpilot
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Mulegena
Well done, TioTomas.
In my life-view we are all snarkey sometimes, but a sincere and gracious apology from the deliveror to the deliverees clears the slate clean like
clear sparkin' water.
Group Hug. |
What she said.....dt
"Life is tough".....It's even tougher if you're stupid.....
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DianaT
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| Quote: | Originally posted by tripledigitken
Time for etiquette lessons later son.
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Nice photo.
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jodiego
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| Quote: | Originally posted by The Sculpin
Surfing is alot like cocaine. The first time you ride a wave is exhilarating, and you spend the rest of your life looking for that same rush.
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Sheesh, can you not come up with any other comparison to surfing than drugs? How about the first time you fall in love or your first really good
sexual encounter. Those of us who have never snorted cocaine cannot share your analogy.
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The Sculpin
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Sorry about that, jodiego. Good for you that you have never had cocaine, but the problem with cocaine, and heroin as well, is that it is much, much,
much better than falling in love or a really good sexual encounter. That's why it's sooooooooo addicting!! That's also why it's a very selfish drug.
I'm sure 'ole Skeeters has many a story that would prove my point in far less poetic circumstances. Anyway, I have seen many people take up surfing
and act in the same way as a drug addict (yours truly included) because the experience is so similar. The Jeff Spicoli sterotype is not too far off
the mark. Never mind that surfing also attracts all sorts of hooligans and miscreants (Dora, Spreckles, Crawford, Garcia) that spice up the image even
more. Anyway, I don't mean to highjack this thread, so let's leave it at that and by all means, stay sober!
Whoa there, Cowboy - pull back on those reins!
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