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Bajamatic
Senior Nomad
Posts: 571
Registered: 8-31-2006
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Surfing with just you and a friend or two is one of life's greatest gifts if you are a surfer, and you either have to pay a LOT of money to get it, or
protect your knowledge. No one is saying stay away, they're just saying its better not to broadcast the location of these gems because being
unpopulated is precisely why they are gems.
[Edited on 2-2-2012 by Bajamatic]
yuletide
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15940
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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even though when pics are cropped the wave still gives itself up due the the overall layout of the lineup. those who have been there know it when they
see it.
those who are still following the crumbs will appreciate all the more to find it on their own (sort of!).
and like someone said above, stories around the campfire after a day of trading sessions (instead of EVERYONE hitting it at sunup) are shared much
easier.
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Lee
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 3603
Registered: 10-2-2006
Location: High in the Colorado Rockies
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Think I'm as seasoned as anyone surfing and this is meaningless to me. 65 y.o. surfing 55 years, last 25 years 100+ days a year.
Fish/surf everyday they're biting and it's breaking at Punta Lobos and San Pedrito.
If a van with a dozen surfers stop at 9 Palms, we get along. I don't care. They'll leave eventually. Not a big deal to me.
Couple days ago, this happened at Pedrito. It felt crowded, mostly with shortboarders, longboarders were further out and I have a longboard.
Many of the waves I started paddling for had a number of shortboarders paddling directly in front of me. Catching a wave and starting to stand,
I'd pull out of the wave rather than run over these guys. When I start getting pi$$ed, I stop surfing or move to another spot.
I think surfers generally have a scarcity mentality. Not enough to go around, if you catch a wave (win), I don't (lose). I don't count the
number of waves I catch in an hour.
I measure my session by other things. In the end, it's about Aloha, and nothing else. There really is room for everyone.
Just a thought: I think most surfers are connected. THose down here (Todos area) know when the next swell is coming, the direction it'll hit,
where it'll hit, and they're on it. If you don't live down here, you may fly in to be in the lineup, or drive down.
Whatever the case, it'll still be good, and surfing will still be a vehicle to practice Aloha and have fun.
US Marines: providing enemies of America an opportunity to die for their country since 1775.
What I say before any important decision.
F*ck it.
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wessongroup
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 21152
Registered: 8-9-2009
Location: Mission Viejo
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Mood: Suicide Hot line ... please hold
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Nice one Lee.. always tried to look at it the same way..
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15940
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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yeah Lee, that's a respectable view of the crowded beached at Pedrito/Cerritos.
there are however, other places "the area that shall not be named" where we'd prefer it not get like Malibu....
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paranewbi
Senior Nomad
Posts: 913
Registered: 4-15-2011
Location: San diego
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Sometimes fences make the best guardia.
Use to sneak into the Ranch up north. Camp at Jalama State beach and walk south. Stupid to walk the railroad tracks cause the cows above would walk
along with you and watch. Pretty soon Smitty would drive along in his truck, look for cows, let you walk good and far into the Ranch. Then just as you
go into the surf area, He'd be waitin' for yer with his sidekick and black gloves on. Take your boards and gear, make you walk out with just your
wetsuit on...2 + hours back, to meet him at the gate and get your stuff.
Good day when a buddy finally got a boat to lauch off the Gaviota pier for $2.50.
Bad day when Smitty died.
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paranewbi
Senior Nomad
Posts: 913
Registered: 4-15-2011
Location: San diego
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Amen Lee,
Rather go down the beach and surf slop then let a crowd get to me. Guess I'm getting old.
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jakecard
Nomad
Posts: 141
Registered: 7-13-2011
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So many interesting and valid points of view. Thank you all. I've learned a lot!
Jake
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15940
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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good soundtrack! now off to pirate bay to stock up the ipod......
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 65410
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Funny how Baja is not mentioned much above, but places like Swammi's and other crowded SoCal breaks are, as if there is ANY comparrison between the
Seven Sisters and Cardiff-by-the-Sea or San Onofre or (fill in the place)...
1) People are scared of Mexico now... so there's a big reason Baja breaks will be empty or nearly so.
2) People are broke... so unable to travel far or take time to surf in Baja.
3) Most people don't have 4WD or ORV's to get near some of the points... however, MEXICO is paving and grading roads... blame them.
I do agree that anyone who doesn't want to share, doesn't need to! BUT, don't play God and tell others what they can say on a forum. To each his own.
When I did a trip report in July, 2007, it was about the dirt road along the Pacific, and had NOTHING to do with surfing, naming breaks, or anything
other that the road and sites along the road. MY God, if a couple of surfers here had an attack as if my trip report was opening the flood gates to
all the kids in California! I made sure to downplay any of the beaches and added how 'cold' and 'ugly' the coast was to appease one Nomad here... and
was negative about the fish camps too...
Even after altering my normally positive (about all things Baja) to a negative on the area, I was still lambasted... I guess, I should have taken it
as a complement that somehow my trip report is sooo good, that all the other guidebooks and maps of this area don't get any concern here!
Baja is a big and mostly empty place... That you enjoy a few days a year at Punta Blanco or The Wall doesn't meant that everyone else going will be
there the SAME days as you... Aren't the waves long enoug to share with another IF you happen to be there the same time? Really? Sad if you can't have
a good time with another Baja Nomad surfer the same day...
Don't worry, for the reasons I named above, you will have a great time surfing Baja the rest of your life! 
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15940
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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wessongroup
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 21152
Registered: 8-9-2009
Location: Mission Viejo
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Mood: Suicide Hot line ... please hold
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"gimme some more"  ... QSA gets down
[Edited on 2-3-2012 by wessongroup]
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watizname
Senior Nomad
Posts: 792
Registered: 8-7-2009
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About sneaking into the Ranch. About 64- '65, the combo on one of the locks at the gate at Jalama was four zeros.----- Leave Ventura about Midnite,
at the gate at +_ 2:00 am. Lights off past the foremans house, no music to wake the dogs, and down on the beach at Perco's. Then Coho to Gov'mt
Point on the beach thru the day till you can't paddle anymore, and then a mad dash to the gate with your buddies, dust, four wheel slides around
corners and ---0000, your thru the gate, and on your way home. I was lucky to be able to do that, take our own crowd, get the waves with all my
friends, and we sure didn't broadcast the combo to the gate. I understand the the guys that "Go Long" to get their waves wanting to keep the
competition to a minimum. There really aren't enough to go around. If you think there are, go to Malibu or Rincon on a day when the swell is up.
Sharing is good, getting some alone is better. Besides, it's always cool to be able to tell your friends "Wow man, you missed it" 
I yam what I yam and that\'s all what I yam.
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Ramon
Banned
Posts: 25
Registered: 5-17-2010
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...DK dont surf... double
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DianaT
Select Nomad
Posts: 10020
Registered: 12-17-2004
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Too much information can destroy that special feeling of a successful discovery --- not discovery in that no one else has been there, but a personal
discovery . JMHO
Just a local surfing difference. I have taken photos of two or three local surfers sharing the same wave while laughing and pushing off each other.
Many of them just are not so territorial and instead of lining up, they all jump on the wave. As one of our surfing friends says, they are just
having fun and that is how they do it. It just is how it is when they are not in a tournament. Not a better way, just different.
[Edited on 2-3-2012 by DianaT]
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woody with a view
PITA Nomad
Posts: 15940
Registered: 11-8-2004
Location: Looking at the Coronado Islands
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Mood: Everchangin'
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| Quote: | Originally posted by soulpatch
I imagine south Emma and all that north of Stables is gonna be reeling and empty! |
i remember, "Emma Wood was Unreal!"
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paranewbi
Senior Nomad
Posts: 913
Registered: 4-15-2011
Location: San diego
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Watizname...
DROVE THROUGH THE GATE!!!
Man you guys in the 60"s were psycho!
Get caught...probably would have had to walk out in your tighties!
I thought my crew were crazies!
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oladulce
Super Nomad
Posts: 1625
Registered: 5-30-2005
Location: bcs
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| Quote: | Originally posted by DianaT
Just a local surfing difference. I have taken photos of two or three local surfers sharing the same wave while laughing and pushing off each other.
Many of them just are not so territorial and instead of lining up, they all jump on the wave.
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That's interesting Diana- I didn't realize this might seem like a selfish or territorial issue.
What you're describing has more to do with the size and quality of the waves the kids are riding. You'd think a bigger and "better" a wave would
allow room for more riders, but it's opposite. Knee-to-waist- high crumbly waves are more forgiving and the kids can take off in multiple places along
the way and ride for a while without decapitating each other. The more the merrier for them.
When waves are bigger, faster, or ones that look like my avatar photo, it becomes a safety issue. Often it's not safe for more than one person to be
riding. It's not a selfish need to have a wave all to yourself, it's distracting when others are trying to ride the same wave cuz your focus becomes
watching where the other guys are so you don't collide instead of enjoying riding the wave. It's not as critical when the waves are little or not good
shape.
But almost as important as the issue of safety is the Golden Rule. When the waves are good, even if there was room for more than one person you don't
go if someone is already riding the wave and I would hope that others wouldn't take off on me. It's enjoyable to be paddling out and watch a person
ride a beautiful wave all to themselves- I'm happy for them. And I would hope they'd be "happy" for me by not taking off when it's finally my turn
My perspective is from a 50-something year old-lady who got sucked in to this lifestyle 40-something years ago. I'm not competitive or confrontational
and never will be and sitting in a pack of 40 people haggling for waves I refuse to do. When it's my turn, I'm not backing down but I don't enjoy the
jockeying for position crap. But I can only sit out so many of the crowded days until I find that I'm not surfing at all. Unfortunately we chose to
live at a place that's remote but well known and extremely inconsistent. Just not that many days with waves here. It makes other places all the more
precious.
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13052
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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this has been an excellent thread...intelligent discussions...well presented viewpoints and opinions...civil banter. Thank you surfer dudes and
dudettes for your thoughful insights...I learned alot.
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watizname
Senior Nomad
Posts: 792
Registered: 8-7-2009
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| Quote: | Originally posted by paranewbi
Watizname...
DROVE THROUGH THE GATE!!!
Man you guys in the 60"s were psycho!
Get caught...probably would have had to walk out in your tighties!
I thought my crew were crazies! |
Coming out one time, we passed the Ranch Mgr going in. He did a U'y, and chased us out. We locked the gate behind us just as he came around the last
corner. Drove off laughing. What a hoot.
I yam what I yam and that\'s all what I yam.
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