Marc
Ultra Nomad
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Location: San Francisco & Palm Springs
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la Paz Ferry and North
Continued from Non Baja Trip Reports
Goodbye Mazatlan Star and hello Baja.
We've been on the road in mainland Mexico,in and out of hotels for a week and now we are in Baja at last. After an unusually long military checkpoint
line at the terminal exit at Pichilingue we head north on a grey day bound for Agua Verde. We bypass La Paz hoping to got there before dark. We do
the careful-creep through Constitutīon and by late afternoon we turn onto the AV road.
I want to make it clear; anything on four wheels can navigate the Agua Verde road. During the three days we were there we saw an RV pulling a trailer,
a HUGE water truck, and a fairly large boat being towed in. Compared to our experiences on the Copper Canyon roads this is a drive in the park.
Rancho Cosme is on the beach near our campsite. The ranch used to be a water and food stop for kayakers before the 'troubles'. On the point above the
beach there's a large multi level home. (capture the image and zoom to see it) Past the farthest point is Agua Verdi about 15 miles distant by road
from the ranch.
Agua Verde. I was here years ago. The little house with the veranda used to be the Agua Verdi Yacht Club. Trudy Angel used the place as an overnight
last stop on her Paddling South kayak tours. It is now occupied by a retired local fisherman. The structure at the far end of the beach is a lodge
used by Gringo sheep hunters.
Agua Verdi Yacht Club (AVYC) 1992 .
The fish camp is at the far end of the bay. It looks to me even poorer now than 20 years ago. A few houses, a school, and a tiny store.
At Rancho Cosme. This is the low tide road to near the hot spring tub. No thanks. We will walk.
Just visible are people in the spa and one walking on the spit. I got into a conversation with the folks in the tub and forgot to take pics.
A view of beach I call Window Rock Which may be the best kayak campsite between Loreto and AV. This is the last overnight camp before Agua Varde.
The road to San Javier is no longer a challenge. In years past we drove along the river bed to access the rough dirt road up to the valley. Now its
paved most of the way. I could live here.
I've been to Loreto so many times I don't take pictures anymore. We found this hotel for under $40 USD. The Hotel San Martīn, (my family name). Nearby
is El Rey Del Taco, which by the way, has been closed my last four trips. The hotel toilet worked just fine.
The sky was clouding up when we arrived in Mulege. We drove out to El Patron, which seems to have a different entryway every year thanks to Mother
Nature.
it's a small world. Turns out that Robin Frizzelle who runs Mulege Properties and I have several mutual friends in Lake Tahoe. His wife Margarita
runs the bakery next door.
Later in the afternoon it starts to rain. We drive into the Orchard and negotiate a really neat house for $50 USD. I knock on Tony's door (Toneart on
Nomads) but he's not around so I leave a note. By the time we are settled in it's pouring down pretty hard.
The next day I was shocked! shocked! to find gambling going on at Anna's. I understand this kind of thing goes on every Thursday. Something called
Texas Hold 'Em. Pete and I chat with one of the local participants,
Santispac Hilton.
We bought these. Honest
we did!
Off to the races in Mulege
Goodby Santispac
Big time construction going on just north of Sta Rosalia. A new dock??
In San Ignacio. A very good fish taco. Actually the it was only place open
My chinese wife gets a kick out of stuff like this.
We spend the night at Baja Cactus in El Rosario. The next day we cross over at Tecate. It's a short wait in line, but then we were directed to
secondary. Very suspicious looking 70 year old geezers! They confiscated our chorizos!
[Edited on 3-8-2012 by Marc]
[Edited on 3-8-2012 by Marc]
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 64743
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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Wonderful!!!
One of the photo links that didn't open needs an ] added to the end... here it is:
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manitoudiver36
Newbie
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Registered: 2-14-2012
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Thanks for the great pictures. I was wondering if I could drive the rental car to Aqua Verde but your post suggests it shouldn't be a problem. I am
heading to Loreto next week for a week and would love to make the drive. I also didn't know about the hot spring! Could you give details on it's
location?
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Udo
Elite Nomad
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Registered: 4-26-2008
Location: Black Hills, SD/Ensenada/San Felipe
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Mood: TEQUILA!
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Super nice photos, and report, Marc!
Udo
Youth is wasted on the young!
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bill erhardt
Super Nomad
Posts: 1372
Registered: 4-2-2005
Location: Loreto, BCS
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Marc.....Great trip report!
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rhintransit
Super Nomad
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Registered: 9-4-2006
Location: Loreto
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thanks, I live here, I see these places all the time and it's still nice to see a travelogue of someone enjoying the sights.
reality\'s never been of much use out here...
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Marc
Ultra Nomad
Posts: 2802
Registered: 5-15-2010
Location: San Francisco & Palm Springs
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| Quote: | Originally posted by manitoudiver36
Thanks for the great pictures. I was wondering if I could drive the rental car to Aqua Verde but your post suggests it shouldn't be a problem. I am
heading to Loreto next week for a week and would love to make the drive. I also didn't know about the hot spring! Could you give details on it's
location? |
Manitoudiver,
On the road you will see a beach in the distance. (my third image). When you drop down into that valley you will see this sign
Turn into the rancho and park at the beach. Walk north (to the left) along the cliff and then further on past a small house. Stay along the shoreline.
You will see a small island connected by a low tide isthmus. The "tub" is a circle of rocks nearer to the island. Jump in and enjoy. Also, there's
good snorkeling on the other side of the island.
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DianaT
Select Nomad
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Registered: 12-17-2004
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Enjoyed riding along on your trip.
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BornFisher
Super Nomad
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Registered: 1-11-2005
Location: K-38 Santa Martha/Encinitas
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Great trip and report! Thanks for posting!
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El Vergel
Nomad
Posts: 197
Registered: 8-27-2003
Location: San Felipe - Puertecitos Rd., Km. 35 and Santa Mon
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Great trip report! Thanks for the awesome pics and wonderful share, Marc. Good stuff especially the pig racing!
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