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Baja Bucko
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Registered: 9-23-2003
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So You're thinking of Seeing the Sierra San Francisco Rock Art??
The incredible rock art of the Sierra de San Francisco range draws visitors from all over the world. No book or video can do it justice. Many people
go into the canyon, see Pintada and maybe Flechas, Soledad and San Julio, leave the canyon and say "Yea, I've seen the cave art" and never return
because "they've seen it".
That is like making a one day trip to Mexico (Tijuana) and then saying I've been to Mexico and never returning again. There are soooo many rock art
sites in the SSF that I can not even begin to list them in my brain.
I am not a rock art nut-I have been addicted to el camino real for over 40 years (it's all Harry's fault!!!) but several years ago I tagged along on a
few rock art researchers' mule trips and I soon came to the realization that "it ain't just doodling!". Along the way with many successive adventures
chauffering certain rock art guys around in Baja I pretty much attained a little university credit level education in rock art studies-theories and
otherwise.
Riding a mule is pretty much the only way to really experience this world in the SSF range. Yea, you can be tough and hike in but there is a reason
that mules reign supreme for travel in the high country of Baja and safety is part of it. Riding in and out of the range at least 2-4 times a year I
see tourists going in unprepared for what awaits them-some hiking in as if on a daytrip to Disneyland. So I thought I'd throw in my 2 bits and maybe
improve future visit experiences for anyone who might be thinking of visiting this range where time stands still.
If you are thinking of saving money and hiking in, know that the trail going down to Sta Teresa is not a groomed path one might find in Balboa Park
but a trail that can be slippery, rocky, steep and exposed to the sun and wind. It is a very well-maintained trail because it is the main highway
(hehehe) into the canyon if you are heading only to the most-visited caves there (Pintada etc). If you are not renting a pack animal for your gear,
understand that you will be carrying everything.
If you have never ridden DON'T WORRY! The mules are there to take care of you and keep you safe! The cowboys actually prefer that visitors ride as
the mules are much more sure-footed than most hikers and much less likely to slip and fall. I had a 65 yr old cousin who'd never ridden in her life do
2 trips with me and had a ball. My sons were very young under 10 when they first rode into rock art sites. I was extremely afraid of heights for MANY
YEARS (the cowboys knew I was the one who cried yet kept coming back!!!!) and I finally realized that my mule did not want to die and I've been fine
ever since. Mules are INCREDIBLE!!!!!
If you think you are too old, too lame, too blind, too (fill in the blanks) to see the rock art in the canyons, think again. I have friends who are
close to 80, visually-impaired, almost crippled, etc and they have successfully ridden in and explored and returned to do it again. My good friend,
Trudi, has gotten 80 yr olds into the canyon, small children, a few guys who could barely walk, the legally blind...and it is possible and worth it.
So to help first-timers here are my 2 bits:
What to wear: this is not a day trip to Disneyland-leave the tanktops at home.
Wear jeans and shoes/boots with a heel. I ride in my hiking boots as cowboy boots are no fun to hike with and some walking is required to get up to
caves or on the trail. Tennis shoes can be slippery.
Bring a hat with tie strings-the hat needs to stay on your head during a wind gust.
Borrow half-chaps from a horse-friend or even better, purchase polainas from Juanita at Casa de Leree in San Ignacio. If you know dates when you are
going in, you can email her w measurements (calf and length) and she can have Juan Gabriel Arce make a pair for you. These protect your lower legs
from cactus and everything-spiney while you are in the saddle and walking around camp and cave, and believe me, everything with spines has someone's
name on it!!! AND if you never go back, they are a memorable part of an exciting adventure.
Bring a pommel bag for the horn of your saddle. This can carry a couple of liter water bottles, sunscreen, small camera, snack and stuff you can grab
easily while riding.
PACK SMALL!!! Figure on a single small duffle (12X24?) for each person's personal gear (clothing, toiletries), a sleeping bag that packs SMALL!!!,
sleeping pad (remember PACKS SMALL!-no huge thermarests or 3"foam pads), and a 1 or 2 man backpacking tent (if wanted).
Bring a small rain poncho or a thick black plastic trash bag for sudden rain...you can buy heavy-duty plastic trash bags for like 5 pesos from Castros
in San Ignacio....
If you are not using a tour operator like Trudi, remember to bring a water filter!!! Otherwise most operators make sure all water is filtered before
use. Always ASK!!!
Leather ranch gloves are a good idea-for riding, walking thru and over brush and rocks (think CACTUS!) and just keeping the hands protected. ( I am
a wimp!).
A walking stick-I used to think these were for city-folk but I found out that having a third leg or hand was a real asset in hiking around plus it
lets you alert any snakes that might be hiding! I have Black Diamond telescoping sticks-and carry the 2nd as back-up in case of loan or breakage. They
fit well tied behind my saddle.
Mule Rules-REMEMBER mules and horses are prey animals while your dog is a predator animal. ALWAYS talk or sing when near a mule-let him know you are
NOT a lion sneaking up on him. Never silently approach or yell-just speak calmly as you enter the animals' range. Your mule is not a backyard pet.
He works for a living and will keep you SAFE and SOUND if you let him do his job.
The reins are NOT for your balance so don't hang on to them for dear ife. Your mule will have some mane on his neck left there just for you to get a
handful of-use it! When going uphill, lean FORWARD, holding yourself forward w the mane. The reins need to be held in the other hand-long enough for
the animal to use his neck but not so long as to get caught in front legs. When going DOWNHILL, lean wayback, holding on to the back of your saddle
with one hand, and stretch the other arm w reins far forward so the mule can properly use himself to keep YOU safe.
When first having your stirrups adjusted-if you feel like your feet are having to REACH for them-they are too long. You should just barely have an
angle in your knee when your heels are pointed down and toes pointed up.
Also guys, a hint-a jock is not a bad idea (related to me by my sons!).
The cowboys will keep an eye on you and your saddle and all you need to do is enjoy the ride.
That said-the mules and vaqueros keep you safe...and YOU MUST PROPERLY feed the cowboy!! They do like the usual fare-tortillas, beans, goat, cheese
etc. Buy tortillas in San Ignacio by the kilo and some goat cheese and you will keep your cowboys happy. Freeze-dried food doesn't do it....PLEASE
TIP YOUR VAQUEROS when the ride is done. This trip may be the ONLY income they have for the year!!!
Figure 1 pack burro per each 2 people plus your riding animals (tourists & guides) and pack accordingly. I pack in my guitar and a bajo sexto
usually gets hauled in too for primo ranchero music around the fires. A fire is not allowed in a couple of spots and it would be a good idea to bring
a single burner stove...don't forget the cowboy coffee!!!
If you know well-enough in advance where you are riding, bring alfalfa for the animals. The last thing you need is to ride on a mule who hasn't had a
decent meal lately because of drought etc. If using a GOOD tour operator-they should be taking care of this beforehand!
In the days before your ride-stretch the lower body muscles. The first day or two of the trip, everytime you dismount, stretch those new muscles! And
remember, IBUPROFEN-BREAKFAST OF CHAMPIONS!! Take whatever you are going to take BEFORE you need it and then on the first day or two-you will have a
more enjoyable trip!
Ohh and food for thought----Please don't hang your hiking stick on the horn-one guy's mule got stuck with one and had an ooops. ALSO do not put
your aspirin or other pills in a container in any place where they will rattle like a rattlesnake!!! Keep on the watch for low branches and
knee-warning rocks and you will be fine.
I have found over the many years of organizing my own muletrips that it is so much easier to let someone else do the hardwork of logistics and
problem-solving and in this range, INAH permits.
Over 15 years ago when I had difficulties trying to ride el camino real from San Borja north thru Calamajue to Sta Maria, I finally contacted Trudi
Angell of Saddling South. I told her what I needed-and she said-"hummm, I think I can do that!" And that is history-....I have been using her ever
since. I look at it this way-you know what? If after a long day in the saddle, we arrive at the nite's campsite and find a dead cow in our only water
source....ITS NOT MY PROBLEM!!!! If I get up in the morning and two of the animals have made a break for home 2 days ride away, ITS NOT MY PROBLEM!!!
And that's why I first try to organize my trips with Trudi. If she is already booked or unavailable, then I run my own.
Trudi, who has lived in Loreto for over 25 yrs and is a Mexican citizen, has a track record that no one can compare to. She is respected by all the
old families in many ranges and has pretty much completed her own BAJA MIL (Baja 1000) muleback along with her daughter, Olivia, who traveled as a
tiny kid, reading her books while covering the miles. Plus she has a talent for herding cats and a voice that is truly music to one's ear!
So that's probably more than 2 bits worth but I covered a lot of ground. If you've never been on a mule-and want the adventure of a lifetime-just
once, while the bodyparts allow-experience a trip into the Sierra San Francisco and see what it is all about. You can go in for just a 1-2 nighter or
you can ride for 2 weeks but you must return.
One dawning morning while camped near Cueva Natividad, I watched as the sun's rays filtered into the canyon like a probing flashlight in the dark...I
remembered something I'd heard from a movie with Jodie Foster (Contact) who played a scientist...
"They should have sent a poet......"
Need I say more......
itsalliwannado
My other 4WD is a Baja Mule!
La Mula Mil Survivor 2013-2014!
1000 miles by mule from the tip to Tecate!
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Baja Bucko
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Posts: 288
Registered: 9-23-2003
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Ohhh and one thing I forgot....
If you are carrying too much weight realize that most mules in the range are small to medium-size. If the cowboys know ahead of time that a rider is
pretty overwt, they can search for a large mule. I mention this because if you are really overwt, it might be time to lose a little before the trip
to make your mule's job SAFER. As for guys who are 6' plus-a little heads up is a good thing so they can find a bigger saddle and suitable mule.
My other 4WD is a Baja Mule!
La Mula Mil Survivor 2013-2014!
1000 miles by mule from the tip to Tecate!
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mtgoat666
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 20375
Registered: 9-16-2006
Location: San Diego
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Mood: Hot n spicy
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nice description and pointers.
i have been wanting to do a 4 or 5 day trip to see the rock art. i have always wondered how to best select a 5 day itinerary, as i assume diff
operators will offer diff tours. i look at crosby's book and always wonder what art is a must-see.
can you compare itineraries or recommend a good 5 day itinerary for riders that are on the tough side of the soft-tough continuum?
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BornFisher
Super Nomad
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Great advice. Maybe others can add to this. Many years ago, I did the trip with my son and one thing we had was a designated "beer burro". He sure
looked mad with that cooler strapped to his back, but climbing out of the canyon with an empty cooler, he was happy. You have made me want to return
again, or at least find Harry Crosby`s book again.
Now about bringing a Bajo sexto. I really don`t know what that is, but I wouldn`t ask for one in certain places!! 
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bufeo
Senior Nomad
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Well done. Good advice and thorough. Guided trips by efficient professionals can always add a measure of safety and comfort...not to mention ease of
mind.
Allen R
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David K
Honored Nomad
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Location: San Diego County
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Thanks Teddi!
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goldhuntress
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That is the best post I've read in awhile! Thanks for all that great info.
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BajaBlanca
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what a absolutely fantastic post ! Mydream is to go one day and one of the hindering factors was the UNKNOWN aspect .... you just made it fun to
prepare for ....THANKS.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 65410
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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and it's in your 'back yard' Blanca!
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Baja Bucko
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Registered: 9-23-2003
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If you want a 5 day trip there are numerous options. Do you want to move camp and travel every day or do you want 2 nites where you are camped in the
same spot ie more relaxation? For those not wanting the "wilderness experience", you can ride down into the Sta Teresa canyon, set up camp there at
the ranch campsite which has good running water, a shower AND a real flush toilet. You can spend 2 days exploring Pintada and at least 3 other caves,
visit the ranch garden of Juan Arce, then take another day to ride out to San Francisco and your car.
If you are game for more caves and the "bush" experience plus an incredible visit to my friends at Rancho San Gregorio, you can take 1-2 easy riding
days to get in to the ranch, see San Gregorio 1 & 2 plus at least 2 other good sites easy access, then ride out.
Since I have been "riding the range" there for many years, I have all of my own gear-saddle, bridle, alforjas (pack gear), riding gear,-permit and
guide arrangement is simple but must be done ahead of trip dates. For longer trips to the more remote-rarely-visited edges of the SSF, permits may
need 6 wks to get the ok. The 9 day trip I did recently to the NE edge sites required that...also depending on what cave art you want to see-there
are several security levels. Obviously the easiest and most visited is Pintada in Sta Teresa canyon.
If you decide that THIS is "allyouwannado" then look in to getting your own gear that fits you (and mules) and your butt will be happier for it....but
avoid heavy saddles that don't fit your butt!!! Many people are perfectly content to get everything arranged by someone else and all they have to do
is park the car in San Francisco and hop on a mule. If you go with Saddling South, Trudi Angell, I can guarantee you will NOT lose weight as her
meals are excellent. You usually either meet up with her in Loreto or in San Ignacio (many people fly in to Cabo and bus north or ride from Tijuana
south to San Ignacio). She runs a smooth ship, has an excellent head guide who sings and cooks (he can make rocks taste wonderful!), is very good at
ironing out any problems that might arise AND she ALWAYS "brings em back alive and happy!" There aren't many old trails in the SSF that she hasn't
explored.
In November I rode in to Rancho San Gregorio and camped there for 7 days....did daily escuela de inglis w Lupita and Spanish immersion and ranchero
dance lessons for me. Then I hopped back on and rode more days. I probably gained a few pounds and had way too much fun. This coming November I plan
to be muleback most of the month, doing 2 trips in a row because you really never know when an asteroid is going to barrel out of the sky and take you
out....
By now, most folks who know me know that this is alliwannado....so I spend my days north of the border WORKING hard just so I can get back on a mule
in the SSF. One has to establish priorities in life-none of us are getting any younger. Soon I hope to be spending MORE time on a mule south of the
border instead of north (not on a mule).
Regarding the "beer burro"-technically beer is not allowed in the canyon....that is all I will say.
WHEN is the best time to go??? November thru April...I always plan on being there all of November and all of March-not terribly cold in Nov. and
March rattlesnakes usually not out yet.....got rained on in Nov and again a couple of days this March but It wasn't a problem in any way. Dec might
be COLD up high and January too.....May-it is starting to heat up.
Life is too short to NOT be doin' this stuff, guys. If it is what you dream, go for it!
My other 4WD is a Baja Mule!
La Mula Mil Survivor 2013-2014!
1000 miles by mule from the tip to Tecate!
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shari
Select Nomad
Posts: 13052
Registered: 3-10-2006
Location: bahia asuncion, baja sur
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Mood: there is no reality except the one contained within us "Herman Hesse"
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Oh Teddi....this is one of my dreams...to do a trip to SSF with you and some good pals...thanks so much for this informative and inspiring post.
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mtgoat666
Platinum Nomad
Posts: 20375
Registered: 9-16-2006
Location: San Diego
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Mood: Hot n spicy
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Baja Bucko
If you want a 5 day trip there are numerous options. Do you want to move camp and travel every day or do you want 2 nites where you are camped in the
same spot ie more relaxation? For those not wanting the "wilderness experience", you can ride down into the Sta Teresa canyon, set up camp there at
the ranch campsite which has good running water, a shower AND a real flush toilet. You can spend 2 days exploring Pintada and at least 3 other caves,
visit the ranch garden of Juan Arce, then take another day to ride out to San Francisco and your car.
If you are game for more caves and the "bush" experience plus an incredible visit to my friends at Rancho San Gregorio, you can take 1-2 easy riding
days to get in to the ranch, see San Gregorio 1 & 2 plus at least 2 other good sites easy access, then ride out.
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thanks for info. don't need creature comforts, just wanting the maximum experience. will have to start researching this for this coming winter...
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Osprey
Ultra Nomad
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Location: Baja Ca. Sur
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Bucko, fantastic post. There's been a few posts on here about th worst drought in Mexico in over 70 years and now almost into our 7the straight
drought in Baja Sur. There was an article I can't find about 700 ranchos being gravely at risk in the S.Franciscos and Gigantes -- many having to
leave, drop down to villages where they can finally have the safety of water for food/families/animals. On your latest trips did you learn anything
about that, see anything telltale, talk with the guides and their families? Obviously the guides can survive from their guide wages but their ranches
still need water for all the plants and animals. Any info would be appreciated.
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BAJACAT
Ultra Nomad
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Registered: 11-21-2005
Location: NATIONAL CITY, CA
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yes, this is a must if you are a Baja lover.I did the above caves and I want more, Im planning my next trip in November...
It was a pleassure metting you Bucko..
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Baja Bucko
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Osprey- In Nov things were very bleak. What animals survived, many ranchers moved to the San Ignacio area to graze any pieces of grass or weeds. Some
parked their animals in SI and went out daily to search for and cut feed along the roads etc. You could see the sadness on their faces-all these
people want to do is to be able to support their families and stay on the ranch. They don't want their kids to be influenced by the drugs and material
gotta-haves of the towns.
It rained at the end of my Nov muletrip in the SSF. That brought some green-up. In March (got rained on for a few days) there was feed up high and
some green and things seemed to look up-but heavy rains haven't come and this is a desert. Many ranches are empty-the families gone to live
elsewhere and their animals gone too.
I've gotten to know many many families quite closely in the range over the past 10+ years and you can see the desperation in the vaqueros' faces.
They just want to take care of their families. A mountain woman can go to Sta Rosalia and get a job cleaning houses. The cowboys go and get treated
like country bumpkins (that is MY OPINION). If a guy has a talent for leatherwork or spurmaking, he can support his ranch and families.
I see a different treatment of the Californios even by their fellow Mexicanos and it is a CLASS issue-the poor or lower economic folks just do not
get the respect. I have seen those who are of an upper economic level look down at the cowboys-they don't have to say a word-I can see it in their
attitudes and actions. My eyes see and I want to scream at them and say "YOU have no idea WHO these people ARE!!! How dare you think you are better
than them...."
It rained in March and there will be some feed in the high country but not enough to really resume supporting the many many families that have ranches
up there. This might be a time to let the range try for a recovery after many years of overgrazing and no management plan. Its not like this hasn't
happened before.
The ranchers know that education is important for the kids and that will draw more out of the mountains in pursuit of jobs and a richer life. Some
kids may stay and continue w the family ranch and others will never return. It is true that more and more ranches will be abandoned and the remaining
ranches will survive w mostly old folks.
These Californios have survived for over 300 years-ancestors handpicked by the Jesuits-and the integrity and character still remains. I do what I can
in helping w the kids' education costs there and have various projects. I have a gardening project going on w Patricio Arce's family in Sta
Marta-where the soil is NOT GOOD for growing anything and I am trying to get educational projects going regarding diabetes and cardiovascular health.
There are so many ways to "share our wealth" and I wish more folks who spend time in this range could help too.
These vaqueros who leave their mountains look at the city as a prison-when Eve was filming for Corazon Vaquero, during the interview at Juan Arce's
when asked abt leaving their ranches, I could feel the desperation in their voices and on their faces. Over the year's I've watched as a family here
and a family there begin to lose their kids and their livelihood-and yet they persevere. They don't need a hand-out....they just need a hand.
I am an advocate for getting people to get into this range and "share their wealth". For many of these guys their biggest income for the year occurs
when their name comes up on the guide roll and they get to work! There are over 70 names on the roll so most are lucky to get to work once or twice
in a season. When you ride in to see the rock art you are helping many families survive through the rental of animals and the guide services. I
encourage people to visit Rancho San Gregorio and see the leatherwork the sons there do...and the embroidery work of so many of the women.
The rock art season is almost ending (May) but will start up again in October. In March goat cheese was again starting to be made but they need more
rain....
I know that the Sierra Gigante has been hurt and many animals have died. If a rancher can not afford to purchase feed his animals will not make it.
Further south I am sure things are just as bad.
There is always hope for the future.....
My other 4WD is a Baja Mule!
La Mula Mil Survivor 2013-2014!
1000 miles by mule from the tip to Tecate!
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Osprey
Ultra Nomad
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Location: Baja Ca. Sur
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You're a good man, Bucko -- good eye, good ticker to see the plight, feel the suffering and helping any way you can.
These people are not nomads. We just share their space at a time of trouble, when they must move and change. Each time the mountain people go down to
the villages to survive, they bring their remaining animals with them, their mountain ways and they clash with village culture; hence the divide you
feel and see. Some of the alberques in the mountains are boarding schools and when they lose their students, one by one it signals the saddest kind of
social upheaval.
The mountains that hold the art are unforgiving -- that's why I think the painters were simply pilgrims -- no people could have survived with their
art for 7500 years.
Thanks again.
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Baja Bucko
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One thing that I forgot to say is this. If these cowboys can not remain in the mountain range and have the means to support their families, the
hundreds of archeological sites will be TRASHED!!! The ranchers know when someone is in the hills and their presence serves to PROTECT these priceless
sites. If the ranches become empty there will go that protection. I recently saw one site where part of the panel was GONE-it looked like someone
had actually CUT about a third of the painting OUT with a tool! It was at a remote location where one can sneak in.
INAH does not pay much and the workers do not get a pension or retirement or health insurance. Without these people in the range, we will lose these
precious treasures. They must be able to support their families and remain in the mountains.
My other 4WD is a Baja Mule!
La Mula Mil Survivor 2013-2014!
1000 miles by mule from the tip to Tecate!
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Skipjack Joe
Elite Nomad
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| Quote: | Originally posted by Baja Bucko
I recently saw one site where part of the panel was GONE-it looked like someone had actually CUT about a third of the painting OUT with a tool! It
was at a remote location where one can sneak in.
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It makes you think about the danger of revealing unprotected locations.
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David K
Honored Nomad
Posts: 65410
Registered: 8-30-2002
Location: San Diego County
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Mood: Have Baja Fever
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We better photograph document them all, as that is the only sure way to 'save' them for eternity.
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Neal Johns
Super Nomad
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Location: Lytle Creek, CA
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Mood: In love!
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This article will soon appear in The Canyon, world famous newspaper of Lytle Creek, CA: 
A Woman of Substance
With apologies to author Barbara Taylor Bradford
Her name is Teddi, I “met” her several years ago on the internet Baja Nomad forum where she posted infrequently about her Baja, California trips.
After a while, she would stop by our house on the way coming or going to Baja. After a few years, it became apparent she really was A Woman of
Substance. Her visits to Baja had two purposes; to research the genealogy of the Arce and Villavicencio, family and also to explore the entire
thousand mile El Camino Real by muleback.
Neither of these pursuits are trivial undertakings, the Arce and Villavicencio families are descendants of Mission soldiers from the 1700’s and they
were very prolific in populating Baja. I have met many in my Backcountry Baja travels, but am handicapped by only 200 words of Spanish. It is only a
few decades ago that the paved roads and commercial interests that you see today were just impossible dreams of the future to the people in the
mountain ranchos. The El Camino, hundreds of years old, was constructed as a foot and mule trail connecting the Missions which were located in the
mountains where there was water from springs. A few parts of the El Camino are still used by the infrequent ranchos located on the trail, but most of
it suffers from neglect and the elements. Teddi keeps her saddle in Baja and lives in the USA. She hires local guides that know the old El Camino
(frequently an Arce or Villavicencio) and away she goes, days away from pavement. Damaged sections require walking and coaxing the mule along.
Genealogy is physically easier but is too often interrupted. We went to dinner one evening with the group and no sooner had she walked in the door
than one of four vaqueros called her over to their table. Sure enough, it was an Arce she knew and he introduced her to the other Arce’s and
Villavicencio’s at the table. This was the end of Teddi for the evening, as she knew the relatives of all at her new table and started scribbling in
her notebook.
The isolated ranches in the Baja mountains frequently have no access by roads and life is much like it was 100 years ago. They tan their own cowhides
and make shoes and saddles from them, marry within a few tens of miles of home (which is causing genetic problems) and have only infrequent contact
with the outside world. The name for these old time pioneers is Californios. Teddi has frequent contact with these stalwart rustics and gives them any
help she can.
She single-handedly campaigns for help for the impoverished Californios still trying to raise goats or cattle after years of devastating drought in
most Baja mountain areas. I’m proud to call her a friend.
Further reading (available, but out of print):
Last of the Californios – Harry Crosby
The King’s Highway in Baja California - Harry Crosby.
My motto:
Never let a Dragon pass by without pulling its tail!
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